122 QUEENSLAND AGRICULTURAL JOURNAL. [1 Auva., 1902. 
The time of year at which this work may be done is immaterial. It is 
obviously advisable to have the trees staked before the windy weather sets in, 
but as the fixing of the stakes may take a little time it is better to begin early 
in the season—at any time when other work will allow of its being taken in 
hand—than to leave it until the damage is wrought. The stakes may be cut 
any time, of common scrub saplings, roughly pointed at one end and_ stacked. 
It is always advisable to have two stakes to a tree, however, which set, 
one to windward and one to the leeward, and as close as possible to the stem, 
al prevent any play on the part of the tree whichever direction gust may come 
rom. 
This double staking also saves tying, which becomes unnecessary, but 
which, in single staking, is unavoidable. However carefully tying is done, I 
have never yet seen absolutely satisfactory results with it; there 1s, moreover, 
always the fear of tieing too tightly or too loosely and of doing no good in 
either case. I have seen stakes put 3 feet away from the tree to prevent (the 
owner explained) any possibility of friction against primaries, but the subse- 
quent result of the tree groaning and straining and swaying all ways but one 
at the end of its 3-feet tether, could scarcely be called satisfactory. 
In staking, therefore, the stakes should be as close to the stem as possible. 
There need be no fear of damaging roots if the stake is properly pointed and 
carefully put in before being driven home with a light mallet. In putting 
the stake in, care must be taken not to rub off spike or crop, or otherwise break 
or damage the tree or branches, and if previously a tall wind blown, the tree 
must be carefully set straight and subsequently mulched well up with earth. 
There are two ways in which the stakes may be put in, which are shown in 
Figs. 3 and 4. Fig. 3 is the upright method, which has the advantage of sup- 
porting the tree all the way up from root to top, and Fig. 4 has somewhat 
greater strength owing to the angle at which the stakes are set. Either method 
is correct, and both are useful under special conditions. As already stated, 
tieing is generally unnecessary, especially in the upright method, but should 
it be desired, or the fear be entertained that the support is insufficient, the 
ties used should still be of soft material if possible. Wire is to be deprecated, 
even if shields of leather or bark are put round the coffee stem. When tying 
with double stakes, the ties should be in double figures of eight—namely, with 
three loops, one round each of the stakes, and the stem, of the coffee tree in the 
centre one. 
Should it be found inconvenient, for want of time or material, to put in 
double stakes, a single stake can be made to suffice, but, of course, tieing will 
then be inevitable, A single stake will give far greater stability if upright 
than at an angle, but either of these methods are far more satisfactory than 
single or even double short stakes. 
HOME-MADE SHEEPSKIN RUG. 
Take a fresh skin, pick out the dirt and wash the wool in slightly warm 
soapsuds, to which you have added a tablespoonful of kerosene oil. Wash in 
another suds or until the wool looks white and clean. Put it in cold water to 
cover it, and dissolve 3-lb. each of salt and alum in three pints of boiling water. 
Pour this over the skin side, and rinse it up and down. Let it soak in this for 
twelve hours, then hang up to drain. When nearly dry, tack it, wool side in, 
on the side of the barn to dry. Rub into the skin 1 oz. each of pulverised 
alum and saltpetre, or double this if the skin is large. Rub for an hour or 
two. Fold the skin sides together, and hang away for three days, rubbin: 
every day or till perfectly dry. Then with a blunt knife clear the skin o 
impurities, rub it with pumice or rotten stone, trim into shape, and you 
have a warm rug that should last a lifetime. 
