348 QUEENSLAND AGRICULTURAL JOURNAL. {1 Nov., 1902. 
allowing it then to become as hard as a well-used road, will not do. Dig deep 
and keep the soil loose, and under ordinary conditions of weather anything will 
grow in our climate ; certainly roses will. 
Having done this and kept on doing it, there is one other requisite for the 
hungry soils of our neighbourhood—viz., frequent manuring. If you get too 
much wood, stop the supplies a little, but you will not get a succession of fine 
flowers unless you feed well. 
The two main requisites are undoubtedly thorough cultivation and plenty 
of manure; with these roses will come.. There is no doubt about it, and 
there is really no other secret about rose-growing. 
To start, obtain good varieties. That is easy enough. Watch the roses 
shown at our monthly meetings and take notes, remembering at the same time 
that some varieties are pre-eminently suited for the show table, while others. 
are better for cutting and garden decoration. This will be more fully spoken 
of under the head of varieties, towards the end of the paper. 
Opinions differ as to whether tea roses are better on their own roots or 
budded on other stocks. Many of the hybrid teas seem to give best results on 
their own roots. Witha good stock, I think pure teas do best with us on 
budded plants. 
Pruning.—The best results are obtained by constant light judicious. 
pruning after the recurring blooming periods. 
Teas require less pruning than hybrid teas, and varieties among teas require 
a little different treatment. A beginner, with observation, will soon teach 
himself. Do not meddle with strong-growing young shoots. They should be 
left severely alone. Remove all thin, spindly ill placed wood, for sach can 
never produce good flowers. Buds likely to form badly placed wood should be 
rubbed off and spreading growth encouraged. It should be remembered that 
you must not expect a rose to grow into a perfectly symmetrical bush trained 
and trimmed into fanciful figures like the shrubs in the old-fashioned 
Dutch gardens. This might be done, but the result would not be good 
flowers. The strong shoots which occasionally break out must be given a 
chance, but old spent wood, discoloured and unhealthy, should be cut away 
without mercy. 
Granted sufficient moisture, our plants are always growing and we have no 
true resting period such as obtains in Great Britain and the southern colonies, 
The yearly severe pruning practised there, and which is sometimes naturally 
done by severe frost, is not advisable here. I believe the professional gardener 
is frequently too much influenced by old training and tradition and uses the 
knife too freely on tea roses. Old wood and thin wood must go. Young and 
vigorous wood should be left almost alone, for it is on such you may expect the 
best flowers. 1 
Varieties.— Many of the best of these are among the oldest. For-instance, 
Adam, raised by Adam in 1833, the name being thus appropriate in more 
ways than one; Devoniensis, by Foster, 1838, and of which the climbing 
variety appeared in 1858; Safrano, by Beauregard, in 1839; Cloth of Gold, 
by Coquereau, in 1843; Niphetos, by Bougere, in 1844, the climbing variety by 
Keynes, 1889 ; Souvenir d’un Ami, by Defougere, in 1846; Mde. Bravy, by 
Guillot, in 1848; Gloire de Dijon, by Jacotet, in 1858; Souvenir d’ Elise 
Vardon, by Marest, in 1854; Rubens, by Robert, in 1859. 
It will be noticed that with the exception of Devoniensis we are indebted 
to French growers for the whole of them, and the list contains two of our best 
show roses. eas. 
Gloire de Dijon has become the parent of a large family of good climbing 
roses known as the Dijon teas. The best of these is Duchesse d’ Auerstadt. 
Our climate is too warm and forcing for Gloire de Dijon. In colder lands it 
eujoys the character of being the hardest of all tea roses. 
From 1560 we have had one or two good ‘l’ea roses every year, the most 
notable being: Catherine Mermet, 1869; Marie van Houtte, 1871; Perle des 
