WATERING 
Continued from page 65 
Water may be given to the roots at any time, but should never 
be sprinkled over the leaves while they are exposed to the bright 
sunshine. One copious watering is better than many sprinklings. 
The ground should always be stirred before it becomes so very 
dry as to cake or crack. Too much watering or rainfall during 
the growing season will result in excessive vine growth and light 
sets of fruit. 
TRAINING AND PRUNING 
Of course, it is not necessary that the vines be trained or 
pruned but this does have certain advantages. Stakes may be 
set and the plants pruned to a single stem, tying perpendicular 
to the stake with cord. This is rather an expensive process and 
not followed by most commercial growers. Many, however, pinch 
out all lateral branches as soon as they appear and confine the 
growth to one stem. When several clusters of fruits are set on, 
the vines are topped; this stops further growth of the vine and 
concentrates the energy of the plant toward maturing the fruits 
that are already set. Advocates of this system claim larger fruits 
and several days of earliness over unpruned plants. There is 
more danger of spread of certain diseases with pruned than with 
unpruned tomatoes. 
Cultivate as long as the vine will permit. The last two or three 
workings of the soil should be very shallow. 
Harliness of tomatoes may be increased as much as a week or 
ten days by use of super-phosphate or commercial fertilizer. This 
is best supplied as a solution to the roots of the plants at the 
time of transplanting. Some Southern growers have found it 
advantageous to plant about half as many hills of corn in the 
field as there are tomato plants. This provides much needed 
shade and guards against hot winds. It is claimed sunburning 
is lessened and yields increase by this method. Others stake the 
fields and similarly plant pole beans instead of corn. 
SPRAYING AND DUSTING 
In some localities it is necessary to maintain a strict spray- 
ing schedule, once in the seedbed and twice after transplanting, 
using a fixed copper or other good fungicide. One spray should 
contain Marlate for control of flea beetles, tomato fruit worm 
and pin worm. If late control is necessary, repeat spraying using 
Marlate or Rotenone dust one week before picking starts. 
PSYLLID 
This minute insect often attacks tomatoes and the gardener 
loses his crop without determining the cause. They are very 
small and appear somewhat like aphides. The tomato leaves 
turn grey and roll although there is no wilting. The leaves 
become rolled and hard, and the plants stunted. A very few 
psyllid can permanently injure the tomato plant. We suggest 
dusting with sulphur at the rate of 75 lbs. per acre. 
Please remember that sulphur can be used on tomato plants, 
but be careful that the wind does not blow it over on canta- 
loupe, cucumber and some other crops as sulphur will kill them. 
Our "Super Select'’ seed is the same grade we plant 
Tomato to produce seed. 
SUPER SELECT TOMATO SEED 
For Greenhouse Growers and Market Growers Wishing 
the Best Selection of Tomato Seed 
The growing of tomatoes in greenhouses for the fancy winter market 
requires a rather heavy initial investment and maintenance expense in 
addition to more than the usual labor and skill on the part of the 
grower. Growing under these conditions requires absolutely dependable 
seed. To meet this demand, we offer our Super Select grade of tomato 
seed. We stake and save seed from a few of the very finest plants we 
are able to find in our seed fields, which in turn have been grown from 
the finest possible selection of line bred stock seed. 
We offer Burrell's Super Select grade of the following varieties: 
Canner’s Jewel, Earlypak, Firesteel, Grothen’s Globe, Homestead, 
Marbon, Improved Pearson, Rutgers, Marglobe, Wisconsin No. 55. 
(Pkt. 50c) (4 oz. $1.50) (oz. $5.00) ('%4 Ib. $18.00) (Ib. $70.00) 
postpaid. 
66 D. V. Burrell Seed Growers Co., Rocky Ford, Colo. 
