20 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTIGULTURU  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
January  4,  1900. 
Raising  Tomatoes  (T.  W.  L.). — Tomato  seeds  may  now  be  sown  to 
raise  plants  for  affording  ripe  fruit  early  in  May.  The  seed 
should  be  sown  thinly  in  well  drained  pots,  pans,  or  shallow  boxes, 
using  light  sandy  soil,  and  placing  on  a  brisk  hotbed  to  germinate! 
Raise  the  seedlings  well  up  to  the  light  before  they  become  in  the  least 
drawn,  thinning  so  as  to  secure  sturdy  plants,  and  when  well  into 
rough  leaf  pot  off  singly  into  thumb  (2^  inch)  pots,  sinking  them  to  the 
seed  leaves.  Shade  until  the  potting  is  recovered,  then  expose  to  all 
the  light  possible. 
Amaryllises  (J.  V.  C.). — Amaryllises  should  be  potted  firmly  in  rather 
sandy  yet  turfy  loam,  with  a  little  crushed  charcoal  intermixed,  in 
spring,  aboiff  February  if  they  can  be  placed  in  a  genial  temperature 
of  55°  to  60°,  and  they  start  all  the  better  if  the  pots  are  plunged  in  a 
bottom  heat  of  about  80°.  Care  is  needed  against  giving  too  much  water 
at  first,  and  before  there  is  any  growth  to  appropriate  it.  As  the 
flower  spikes  grow  and  leaves  form  more  water  is  requisite.  After 
flowering  a  strong  leaf  growth  should  be  encouraged  in  the  full  sun, 
never  allowing  any  check  through  drought  at  their  roots.  About  the 
middle  of  August  the  water  supply  must  be  reduced,  and  a  dry  atmo¬ 
sphere  should  be  maintained,  with  free  ventilation  to  assist  the  ripening 
process. 
Winter  Condition  of  Black  Fly  (Amateur).  —  The  black  aphis 
(A.  cerasi)  lives  through  the  winter  on  the  young  growths  of  Cherry 
trees  under  favourable  climatic  conditions,  or  in  glass  houses,  and 
sometimes  in  warm  situations  outdoors.  These  continue  to  increase 
parthenogenetically  under  such  circumstances  for  a  number  of  years. 
This  ^ocess  of  reproduction  by  gemmation  or  budding  is  distinct  from 
that  by  eggs.  ^  These  eggs  consist  of  the  outer  wall  or  vitelline 
membrane,  which  is  practically  weather-proof,  the  yolk  or  vitellus,  the 
germ  vesicle,  and  germ  spot.  All  these  parts  are  easily  determined 
anatomically,  but  it  is  extremely  difficult  to  refer  the  egg  under 
examination  to  the  species.  The  eggs  (true)  are  produced  by  winged 
females  at  the  end  of  the  summer  or  in  autumn,  generally  pale  or 
yellow  at  first,  but  ultimately  turning  black. 
Hampshire  Soil  (A  Felloxo  of  Botany).— 1,  The  best  manure  to  apply 
to  garden  soil,  where  the  ground  is  full  of  flints  and  where  chalk 
abounds,  is  half-rotted  farmyard  horse  stable  manure.  The  manure 
from  cows  is  also  excellent  when  not  less  than  half -rotted.  All  kinds 
of  vegetable  crops  thrive  on  chalky  soils  thus  enriched,  it  being  only  a 
question  of  cultivation  to  make  the  soil  grow  anything  that  may  be 
required  by  an  establishment.  We  do  not  consider  it  would  be  wise 
to  screen  the  flints,  and  it  would  suffice  to  remove  such  as  interfere 
with  the  working  of  the  land.  It  would  be  advisable  to  bring  in  as 
much  fresh  soil  as  you  can,  so  as  to  deepen  it.  2,  Orchard  trees  that 
are  full  of  moss  and  short  of  wood  growths  should  be  Sprayed  with  a 
solution  of  caustic  soda  and  potash,  i  lb.  each  to  six  gallons  of  water, 
cnoosing  a  dry  day,  when  the  weather  is  mild  and  the  trees  quite 
dormant.  It  is  more  effectual  when  used  at  a  temperature  of  130° 
or  dust  the  trees  with  quicklime  whilst  damp  after  fog  or  rain.  If  the 
trees  require  priming,  attend  to  this  before  spraying  or  liming  them, 
a  judicious  thinning  of  the  branches  or  twigs  where  crowded  being  of 
great  benefit  in  cases  of  stunted  growth.  To  the  grass  or  land  we 
^  ^  dressing  of  manure,  not  less  than  20  tons  per  acre 
and  the  sooner  the  better.  3,  The  wall  trees  should  be  pruned  if  they 
are  worth  it;  if  not,  uproot  them  and  plant  fresh  ones,  for  trees 
destitute  of  health  often  take  more  “  doctoring  ”  than  they  are  worth. 
It  kept  they  will  probably  require  manuring  and  dressing  with  an 
insecticide.  If  you  cannot  procure  farmyard  or  stable  manure  apply 
some  approved  fertiliser,  such  as  those  advertised  for  fruit  trees  in  our 
do  umns.  4,  Peacli  trees  have  thriven  with  us  on  a  soil  full  of  flints 
and  where  chalk  abounds,  the  silica  being  too  insoluble  to  do  them  the 
least  harm.  What  they  suffer  from  is  dryness,  and  that  can  be 
ODviMed  by  watering  and  mulching  with  manure  in  summer.  5,  Peach 
and  Vine  borders  of  the  very  best  are  made  from  pastures  of  such 
land,  usmg  the  top  2  or  3  inches  with  the  turf.  Such  a  medium  is 
better  than  Surrey  loam  for  Peach  and  Vine  borders.  6,  The  best  fuel 
tor  boiler  furnaces  is  anthracite  coal  where  the  draught  is  good  but 
m  some  localities  coke  can  be  had  readily,  and  then  it  may  be  the  more 
economical.  7,  Water  obtained  from  wells  on  lime  formations  is 
injimous  to  peat-loving  plants,  and  also  prejudicial  to  fruits  for 
syringing  purposes,  and  should  be  treated  with  anti-calcaire  before 
being  used  for  such  purpose.  8,  Rhododendrons  could  be  made  to 
hrive  by  preparing  beds  for  them  of  peat  or  other  vegetable  material 
siich  as  hmeless  turfy  loam  mixed  with  half  leaf  mould,  and  mulching 
with  cow  manure.  9,  Herbaceous  plants  of  nearly  eyery  kind  succeed 
on  such  soil  as  you  describe  if  the  borders  are  properly  made,  adding 
pure  soil  and  some  manure  where  the  material  staple  is  shallow  and 
loose.  10,  The  hardier  Tea-scented  Roses  and  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals 
would  unquestionably  thrive  under  proper  treatment  and  due  prepara- 
tion  ot  the  beds.  The  question  of  hardiness  would  be  influenced  by 
tne  altitude  and  exposure  as  regards  the  Teas,  though  they  would 
succeed  with  protection  in  severe  weather.  11,  The  soil  is  suitable  for 
i  igs  but  whether  they  would  succeed  as  standards  depends  upon  the 
situation;  they  only  answer  as  such  in  favoured  positions.  If  you 
mean  growing  them  against  walls,  if  these  are  high  enough  there  is  no 
doubt  of  their  succeeding  on  a  south  aspect  if  the  trees  are  properly 
managed.  You  may  rely  on  the  information  we  give.  Success  is  a 
question  of  intelligent  routine. 
Fresh  Blood  Mixed  with  Turfy  Loam  and  Farmyard  Manure  for  Top¬ 
dressing  vine  Border  (M.  R.  D.). — Blood  is  an  excellent  manure  for 
Vines,  but  you  would  have  done  better  by  mixing  with  it  au  equal 
quantity  by  measure  of  wood  ashes  before  adding  to  the  twelve 
barrowloads  of  turfy  loam  and  three  barrowfuls  of  farmyard  manure, 
then  mixing  the  whole  together.  As  you  have  not  done  this,  and 
may  not  be  able  to  procure  the  wood  ashes,  add  to  the  compost  the 
same  amount  of  air-slaked  lime,  sprinkling  it  all  over  the  heap,  and 
turning  at  least  once  so  as  to  incorporate  all  well  together.  After 
placing  the  compost  on  the  border,  it  would  be  well  to  sprinkle  on 
each  square  yard  a  handful  of  a  mixture  of  three  parts  steamed  bone- 
meal,  two  parts  muriate  of  potash,  and  one  part  sulphate  of  magnesia, 
leaving  on  the  surface  for  the  water  given  in  watering  to  wash  in.  We 
do  not  approve  of  raw  blood  being  applied  to  Vine  borders.  It  ought 
to  have  been  composted  at  least  three  months  before  use  ;  but  with  the 
treatment  advised  you  may  use  it  after  mixing. 
Dressing  vines  with  Caustic  Soda  and  Commercial  Potash  Wash 
(B.  A.  C.). — The  article  may  be  procured  of  or  through  a  chemist  or 
horticultural  sundriesman.  The  caustic  soda  (98  per  cent,  purity)  and 
commercial  potash  or  carbonate  of  potash,  commonly  called  pearlash, 
should  be  used  in  equal  proportions,  say  1  oz.  each  to  1\  gallon  water, 
dissolving  in  hot  water  and  applying  with  a  half-woim,  clean,  painter’s 
sash  brush  at  a  temperature  of  about  130°,  reaching  well  into  the  holes 
and  crevices,  but  not  using  lavishly.  It  should  be  applied  whilst  the 
Vines  are  quite  dormant.  For  the  Figs  it  must  be  more  highly  diluted  or 
to  two  gallons,  as  it  sometimes  injures  the  young  wood,  and  for  them  it 
is  better  to  use  soluble  petroleum,  applying  according  to  the 
instructions,  as  there  are  various  strengths  of  the  article.  The  other 
articles  you  mention  are  not  insecticides  for  applying  to  the  stems  of 
Vines  or  trees,  but  valuable  fertilisers  for  applying  to  the  soil.  If  you 
fail  in  procuring  the  caustic  materials  send  us  a  stamped  directed 
envelope  repeating  your  request. 
Sulphuring  vinery  (P.  C.  G.). — The  practice  of  burning  sulphur  in 
vineries  when  the  Vines  are  at  rest  is  practised  by  some  growers  of 
Grapes  for  marketing,  but,  so  far  as  we  have  observed,  with  little,  if 
any,  effect,  for  the  Vines  were  infested  with  red  spider  the  following 
summer.  This  pest  harbours  in  various  parts  of  the  house — the  wood¬ 
work,  walls,  and  borders,  cracks  and  crevices,  and  the  sulphurous  fumes 
fail  to  reach  all  the  hybernating  pests,  and  at  any  rate  they  wake  up 
lively  enough  when  the  time  for  action  comes.  Thorough  cleanliness  is 
the  best  preventive,  the  woodwork  being  thoroughly  brushed  and 
washed  with  carbolic  soap  water ;  the  glass  cleansed  inside  and  out¬ 
side  with  clear  water;  the  walls  limewashed,  and  the  loose  surfaoo  soil 
of  the  border  removed,  and  a  top-dressing  given  of  good  turfy  loam 
with  a  fourth  of  well  decayed  manure  added ;  also  sprinkling  on  each 
square  yard  a  good  handful — about  4  ozs. — of  a  mixture  of  three  parts 
dissolved  bones,  two  parts  sulphate  of  potash,  and  one  part  sulphate  of 
magnesia,  well  mixed.  The  top-dressing  should  not  exceed  2  inches  in 
thickness.  Red  spider  also  hybernates  on  the  Vines,  beneath  the  loose 
bark,  and  in  the  holes  and  crevices  of  the  roots  ;  hence  we  advise 
their  being  dressed  with  a  solution  of  caustic  soda  (98  per  cent, 
purity)  and  commercial  potash  or  pearlash,  1  oz.  each  to  1^  gallon  of 
water,  applying  with  a  brush  at  a  temperature  of  130°  to  140°.  This 
will  kill  the  eggs  as  well  as  the  larvae  and  adults  of  most  pests  infest¬ 
ing  vegetation.  We  do  not  advise  the  sulphuring,  though  if  you  like 
to  try  it  a  good  haudful  of  sulphur  would  be  sufficient  for  the  size  of 
house  you  name. 
Planting  Vine  against  an  Outside  Wall  (Amateur).  —  You  may 
take  up,  plant,  and  prune  the  Vine  at  once,  preserving  as  many 
roots  as  possible,  not  letting  them  get  dry  during  the  process  of 
removal.  Dig  out  a  deep  trench  as  far  from  the  stem  as  you  can, 
going  quite  below  the  roots  ;  then  fork  away  the  soil  from  the  roots 
into  the  trench,  throwing  it  back  with  a  shovel  as  the  work  proceeds, 
and  in  this  way  the  roots  will  be  kept  clear  of  the  soil,  and  the  greatest 
number  secured.  If  the  soil  in  your  garden  grows  fruit  trees  well,  a 
Vine  will  grow  in  it  also  ;  but  you  cannot  err  by  placing  in  a  foot  in 
depth  of  turfy  loam  for  the  roots  to  be  spread  on,  and  covering  them 
with  some  of  the  same  kind  4  or  5  inches  deep.  They  must  be 
spread  out  quite  straight,  cutting  off  all  broken  ends  and  bruised 
portions,  working  the  soil  well  round  them  and  pressing  it  down 
moderately  firm,  but  not  treading  it  hard.  When  finished  the  surface 
may  be  4  or  5  inches  above  the  level  of  the  surrounding  ground. 
A  layer  of  longish  manure  spread  on  to  exclude  frost  will  complete  the 
work  of  planting.  The  pruning  should  be  severe,  cutting  off  all  the 
side  or  lateral  growths — that  is,  those  made  during  the  present  year, 
leaving  only  about  two  eyes  or  buds  of  each  next  to  the  maiu  rods ;  or, 
if  preferred,  the  main  rods  may  be  cut  down  to  any  desired  extent, 
and  young  growths  retained  towards  the  base  for  training,  if  in  this 
way,  the  wall  space  would  be  more  effectively  occupied.  The  main 
branches  on  Vines  on  walls  should  be  3  feet  apart,  so  as  to  afford  space 
for  securing  the  fruit-bearing  laterals  between  them,  taking  off  their 
points  so  as  to  leave  one  leaf  beyond  the  bunches.  These  side  growths 
should  be  18  inches  apart,  more  rather  than  less,  selecting  the  best  as 
soon  as  bunches  are  visible,  and  pulling  off  the  others  gradually, 
allowing  none  to  remain  after  those  desired  are  secured  to  the  wall. 
If  the  thinning  is  completed  at  once  some  of  those  intended  to  be 
retained  may  be  broken  in  bending  them  to  the  wall,  hence  the 
wisdom  of  having  a  few  in  reserve.  Lead-coloured  paint  should  be 
well  rubbed  into  the  wounds  after  pruning. 
