38 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
Jannary  11,  1900, 
THE  LATE  MR.  HY.  BROOMHEAD,  F.R.H.S. 
Ox  Sunday,  the  30th  December,  the  funeral  of  Mr.  H.  Broomhead, 
of  Sheffield,  took  place  at  the  General  Cemetery,  where  a  large  number 
of  his  friends  assembled  to  pay  their  last  tribute  of  respect  to  his 
memory.  The  chief  mourners  were  Mrs.  Broomhead  (widow),  Mr. 
Aldam  Broomhead  and  Mr.  John  Broomhead  (sons),  Misses  Nora,  Kate, 
and  Nellie  Broomhead  (daughters),  Mr.  J.  Broomhead  (brother),  Mrs. 
Clayton  (sister),  and  many  personal  friends,  amongst  whom  were 
Mr.  H.  J.  Jones,  Lewisham.  A  large  cross  of  Chrysanthemums  (from  the 
Sheffield  Chrysanthemum  Society)  covered  the  coffin,  and  wreaths  and 
floral  devices  were  sent  by  many  friends.  The  whole  of  the  officials  of 
the  Sheffield  Chrysanthemum  Society  attended  the  funeral,  also 
deputations  from  other  societies. 
In  the  death  of  Mr.  Broomhead  Sheffield  loses  one  of  its  best  Chrysan¬ 
themum  growers,  and  the  Sheffield  Chrysanthemum  Society  one  of  its 
most  liberal  supporters.  Although  he  took  no  active  part  in  municipal 
or  public  matters,  he  was  well  known  as  a  liberal  and  active  patron  of 
floriculture.  His  favourite  flowers  were  Chrysanthemums,  and  he 
introduced  the  Japanese  section  into  Sheffield.  Every  year  he  obtained 
new  varieties,  and  the  following  year  every  cutting  or  young  plant 
not  required  by  him  was  given  to  his  friends.  He  was  also  a  successful 
cultivator  of  Show  and  Cactus  Dahlias. 
For  upwards  of  twelve  years  he  held  the  position  of  Hon.  Sec.  to  the 
Sheffield  Chrysanthemum  Society.  In  the  early  period  of  the  Society’s 
history,  he  for  several  years  presented  a  sterling  silver  cup  valued  at 
sixteen  guineas  as  a  prize  for  cut  blooms,  and  the  following  year  he 
gave  the  same  amount  in  cash  in  addition  to  other  liberal  prizes.  On 
the  occasion  of  the  annual  exhibitions  he  gave  to  each  of  the  scholars  of 
the  Girls’  and  Boj^s’  Charity  Schools  Oranges  and  Apples.  These 
scholars,  who  are  regular  visitors  to  all  the  November  shows,  will 
greatly  miss  his  kind  liberality. 
A  few  years  ago  he  presented  to  the  Society  a  large  number  of  valu¬ 
able  books  on  horticulture  and  kindred  sciences,  which  he  wished  to  form 
the  nucleus  of  a  substantial  library,  which  has  been  named  in  honour  of 
the  giver,  the  Broomhead  Library.  He  was  a  man  with  a  “  big  heart,” 
generous  in  the  extreme,  but  he  did  not  keep  a  ledger  account  of  his 
good  actions.  Everything  was  done  in  his  quiet  unassuming  manner. 
He  will  be  missed  by  a  large  circle  of  friends,  but  his  good  deeds  and 
actions  will  live  on  and  keep  his  memory  green. 
In  January,  1891,  the  Society  presented  him  with  an  illuminated 
address,  a  large  marble  timepiece,  and  a  pair  of  bronzes,  out  of  respect 
and  regard  for  his  great  assistance  and  generous  help  in  promoting  the 
well-being  of  the  Society. — J.  H.  S. 
THE  DAHLIA. 
At  the  last  meeting  of  the  Kingston  and  District  Gardeners’  Society 
Mr.  Read  contributed  an  interesting  paper  on  the  Dahlia.  The  lecturer 
thought  that  this  plant  is  seen  at  its  best  when  planted  in  bold  masses 
on  extensive  lawns,  or  along  the  back  of  large  mixed  borders  ;  while  it 
may  be  usefully  employed  to  give  colour  to  shrubberies.  Propagation  is 
effected  in  three  ways — by  cuttings,  division  of  the  roots,  and  by  seeds. 
To  obtain  cuttings  the  old  roots  must  be  placed  in  6  or  8-inch  pots, 
removing  the  ends  of  the  tubers  to  make  them  fit  the  pot.  Plunge  the 
receptacles  in  a  hotbed  standing  at  70°,  or  a  bed  of  soil  may  be  placed 
on  the  front  of  an  early  vinery,  and  the  roots  laid  on  it  and  covered 
with  soil,  leaving  the  crowns  exposed. 
Shoots  will  appear  in  about  ten  days,  and  this  is  the  time  to  give  a 
thorough  watering.  When  the  growths  are  3  inches  long  cut  them  off 
and  throw  them  away,  as  the  first  shoots  are  coarse  and  hollow,  and  do 
not  make  such  good  plants  as  the  next  shoots,  which  are  smaller  but 
harder.  Put  the  cuttings  singly  in  small  pots  and  plunge  them  in  a 
hotbed  at  70°.  Shade  heavily,  but  give  abundance  of  air  or  the 
cuttings  will  turn  black  and  decay.  When  rooted,  place  the  stock  in  a 
cooler  house,  and,  after  a  few  days,  put  them  in  larger  pots,  using  a 
compost  of  two  parts  of  loam,  one  part  of  leaf  soil,  and  one  part  of 
spent  hotbed  manure  with  a  little  sand.  Return  the  young  plants  to 
the  greenhouse,  and  shade  for  a  few  days  until  the  roots  have  entered 
the  new  soil. 
Old  roots  to  be  divided  should  be  started  in  a  warm  greenhouse  to¬ 
wards  the  end  of  March,  and  when  growth  has  commenced  separate  into 
several  pieces,  each  having  a  young  shoot  attached.  Put  these  divisions 
into  small  pots,  cutting  large  tubers  to  fit  48’s.  Keep  them  in  a  green¬ 
house  for  a  time,  and  gradually  harden  and  plant  out  at  the  end  of  May. 
If  there  is  no  convenience  for  starting  them  early,  the  roots  may  be 
planted  in  the  garden  in  April,  and  by  the  time  the  shoots  appear  danger 
from  frost  will  almost  be  past ;  but  an  inverted  pot  over  the  plant  will 
make  all  secure.  A  rich,  moderately  heavy  soil  is  the  best  for  Dahlias. 
Station  the  plants  not  less  than  3  feet  apart,  and  allow  only  one  shoot 
to  each  plant,  so  as  to  obviate  the  thinning  of  the  side  branches. 
A  mulch  of  manure  in  the  summer  helps  to  conserve  moisture,  and 
to  afford  a  stimulant  each  time  water  is  applied.  Liquid  manure  is 
very  good,  but  artificials  could  not  be  recommended,  as  they  produce 
rank  growth  at  the  expense  of  flowers.  When  frost  kills  the  plants,  cut 
down  the  stem  to  15  inches  from  the  ground,  lift  the  roots,  remove  all 
soil,  and  well  dry  the  roots  before  storing  them  in  a  frost-proof  shed  or 
cellar;  they  should  be  hung  up  or  placed  upon  shelves.  Very  small 
roots  may  be  stored  in  dry  sand  or  ashes,  but  they  must  not  be 
laid  upon  the  ground,  or  moisture  will  arise  and  favour  decay  of  the 
roots,  and  for  this  reason  large  roots  should  never  be  covered. — 
J.  T.  Blencowe. 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Peeesias, 
Few  flowers  are  more  popular  or  useful  during  the  winter  and 
spring  months  than  Preesias.  Although  their  culture  is  simple,  there 
are  probably  more  failures  with  them  than  with  any  other  bulbous 
plant  forced  at  this  season.  A  number  of  bulbs  may  be  potted  at  the 
end  of  July,  but  they  must  be  kept  quite  cool  in  a  frame  and  be 
protected  from  heavy  rains,  keeping  the  lights  well  tilted  to  admit 
plenty  of  air.  Other  bulbs  should  be  potted  towards  the  latter  end  of 
August  and  September. 
After  potting  some  growers  cover  the  pots  with  ashes,  others  leaf 
soil,  but  in  either  case  the  material  must  be  removed  in  the  course  of 
a  week  or  two,  or  growth  will  be  seriously  weakened.  A  practice 
commonly  adopted  is  to  cover  each  pot  with  an  inverted  one.  It  is 
my  belief,  however,  that  the  young  growths  enjoy  plenty  of  light  and 
air  from  the  outset,  and  each  bulb  will  grow  strongly  provided  it  was 
quite  sound.  A  wet  condition  of  the  soil  at  any  stage  and  too  strong 
heat  are  both  detrimental  to  the  health  of  the  plants.  Bulbs  in 
frames  must  be  removed  to  cool  houses  as  soon  as  frost  appears,  and  be 
placed  on  shelves  near  the  glass  in  a  structure  of  which  the  night 
temperature  is  45°  to  50°,  with  abundauce  of  air.  Unless  desired  for 
a  particular  date  they  are  best  kept  in  cool  houses  until  the  flower 
spikes  appear,  then  an  intermediate  one  may  safely  be  given.  Flowers 
formed  in  a  higher  temperature  are  of  a  poor  colour,  and  do  not  last  so 
long  in  a  cut  state. 
A  light  fibrous  loam  with  a  mixture  of  leaf  soil,  a  small  part  of  well 
decomposed  cow  manure,  and  some  sharp  sand  well  incorporated  will 
suit  them  well,  allowing  proper  drainage,  and  placing  eight  bulbs  in  a 
5-inch  pot.  Although  copious  supplies  of  water  are  disastrous  in  the 
early  stages  of  growth,  frequent  applications  of  liquid  manure  may  be 
afforded  after  the  flower  trusses  are  formed.  Attention  must  be  given 
to  support  the  spikes  and  grass  to  prevent  them  falling  about. 
— F.  W.  G. 
WORK.foi^.theWEEK., 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
vines. — Early  Forced  hi  Pots. — When  the  bunches  are  advanced  for 
flowering  the  atmosphere  should  be  kept  rather  drier  and  warmer,  and 
it  is  a  good  plan  to  brush  them  lightly  with  a  camel’s-hair  brush  when 
in  flower  so  as  to  facilitate  fertilisation.  As  soon  as  the  fruit  is  set, 
att  ention  should  be  given  to  the  thinning,  commencing  as  soon  as  the 
berries  are  fairly  swelling,  removing  the  smallest  first,  and  allowing 
sufficient  room  for  the  berries  left  to  swell  to  their  full  size  without 
wedging  or  crushing.  Water  copiously  with  liquid  manure,  keeping 
the  evaporation  troughs  similarly  charged.  Encourage  growth  above 
the  fruit,  yet  only  as  much  as  can  have  full  exposure  to  light.  Surface 
dress  the  soil  with  short  sweet  manure,  and  when  roots  are  emitted 
freely  from  the  collar  some  turves  may  be  placed  on.  The  temperature 
should  range  from  65°  to  70°  at  night,  70°  to  75°  by  day,  80°  to  85°  from 
sun  heat,  admitting  air  from  75°,  and  closing  early,  so  as  to  raise  it  to 
85°  or  90°  with  sun  heat,  damping  surfaces  at  closing  time  or  early  in 
the  afternoon. 
Early  Houses. — These  will  now  require  particular  care  in  venti¬ 
lating,  so  as  not  to  admit  cold  draughts  of  air,  which  cripple  the 
foliage  and  produce  rust  on  the  berrie?.  Disbud  when  the  best  shows 
for  fruit  are  discernible  in  the  points  of  the  growths,  and  tie  the  shoots 
down  before  their  points  touch  the  glass.  In  stopping,  be  guided  by 
the  space  at  command.  Remove  all  superfluous  bunches,  overcropping 
being  the  precursor  of  deficiency  of  colour,  and  some  say  of  shanking 
in  the  berries.  When  the  flowers  open,  maintain  a  night  temperature 
of  70°  to  75°  when  mild,  about  5°  less  if  severe  weather  prevail,  but 
insure  moderate  humidity  in  the  atmosphere.  Where  fermenting 
materials  have  been  employed  in  the  house,  do  not  allow  the  heat  to 
decline  at  this  critical  stage,  but  preserve  a  good  heap  of  Oak,  Beech, 
or  Spanish  Chestnut  leaves  and  stable  litter  in  the  reserve  ground,  to 
admit  of  a  supply  being  obtained  as  required  to  maintain  the  heat  of 
the  house  with  regularity. 
Vineries  Started  at  the  New  Year. — The  inside  border  must  be 
brought  into  a  thoroughly  moist  condition  by  repeated  waterings  or 
liquid  manure  at  a  temperature  equal  to  the  mjan  of  the  house. 
A  heap  of  fermenting  materials  on  the  floor  about  18  inches  deep, 
turning  a  portion  of  it  daily,  is  conducive  to  an  even  break,  and  favours 
speedy  growth.  Where  this  cannot  be  secured  sprinkle  the  floors  and 
borders  in  the  afternoon  with  liquid  manure. 
