January  18,  1900. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
('.1 
freely  to  every  part  in  summer.  Therefore  thin  out  the  spurs,  partially 
shortening  the  most  elongated.  Foreright  or  side  shoots,  whether 
summer  pruned  or  not,  may  be  shortened  to  a  few  buds  with  a  view 
to  these  forming  fruit  buds.  These  are  more  likely  to  develop  quickly 
if  the  shoots  which  extended  long  were  shortened  to  six  leaves  in 
summer  in  the  case  of  trees  which  bear  fruit  on  spurs.  By  doing  this 
the  basal  buds  on  each  shoot  are  largely  encouraged  to  form  fruit 
buds. 
Cleansivg. — Trees  are  all  the  better  for  a  dressing  of  some  kind, 
especially  if  they  have  been  affected  with  red  spider  on  the  leaves  last 
season.  These  insects  pass  the  winter  on  and  in  the  crevices  of  the 
bark.  The  caustic  soda  and  potash  solution  sprayed  on  the  trees 
destroys  insects  and  eggs,  leaving  the  wood  clean  and  bright.  An 
insecticide  for  applying  with  a  brush  is  composed  of  half  a  pound  of 
softsoap  in  a  gallon  of  water,  1  pint  of  tobacco  juice,  and  a  handful  of 
flowers  of  sulphur,  all  thoroughly  intermixed. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cherry  House. — Give  due  attention  to  watering  trees  in  pots  and 
syringing  on  fine  days,  damping  occasionally  only  when  the  weather  is 
dull.  Maintain  the  night  temperature  at  40°,  45°  to  50°  in  the  daytime 
by  artificial  means,  ventilating  at  50°,  and  allowing  a  rise  of  10°  to  15° 
from  6un  heat,  with  full  ventilation,  closing  at  50°.  Scrutinise  the 
trees  closely  for  aphides,  and  if  there  be  any  trace  of  the  pest  take 
measures  at  once  to  eradicate  them. 
Cucumbers. — Maintain  the  night  temperature  at  65°,  allowing  6° 
more  in  mild  weather,  whilst  it  may  be  5°  less  on  cold  nights,  70°  to  75° 
by  day,  and  80°  to  85°  from  sun  heat.  When  the  external  air  is  mild  a 
little  ventilation  may  be  given  at  80°,  closing  before  the  temperature  is 
reduced  below  that  degree,  so  as  to  raise  to  90°  or  95° ;  but  if  the 
external  air  is  cold,  though  the  sun  shines,  it  is  better  to  allow  the 
temperature  to  advance  a  little  beyond  the  above  limits  than  to  admit 
cold  air,  which  injures  the  foliage,  also  causing  the  fruit  to  become 
stunted  and  curl  at  the  end.  Plants  in  bearing  will  require  to  be 
examined  about  twice  a  week,  removing  all  weakly,  superfluous,  and 
exhausted  growths,  reserving  as  much  of  the  young  bearing  wood  as  is 
necessary  to  fill  the  allotted  space,  stopping  the  shoots  above  or  two 
joints  beyond  the  show  for  fruit. 
Young  plants  coming  into  bearing  should  not  be  allowed  to  bear 
fruit  too  soon,  and  by  no  means  be  overcropped.  They  are  greatly 
assisted  by  removing  staminate  blossoms,  also  superfluous  pistillate 
flowers  as  they  appear.  Tendrils  also  should  be  pinched  off.  The 
supply  of  moisture,  both  at  the  roots  and  in  the  atmosphere,  must  be 
regulated  by  circumstances  and  external  conditions.  Syringing  should 
not  be  practised  on  the  foliage,  except  a  light  sprinkling  in  the  early 
part  of  bright  afternoons,  damping  the  floor  at  about  8  a.m.  and  2  p.m. 
Encourage  the  roots  to  spread  on  the  surface  of  the  bed  by  adding 
lumpy  loam  from  time  to  time,  with  which  may  be  incorporated  a  little 
well-decomposed  cow  manure  or  fresh  sweetened  horse  droppings. 
When  roots  are  had  in  this  manner  the  plants  may  be  fed  to  any  extent 
by  sprinkling  a  mixture  of  two  parts  bone  superphosphate  and  one  part 
powdered  saltpetre,  mixed,  on  the  surface,  at  the  rate  of  2  or  3  ozs. 
per  square  yard  every  fortnight  or  three  weeks,  with  a  light  dusting  of 
soot  between  times. 
Keep  a  keen  eye  on  the  plants  for  aphides,  and  fumigate  several 
times  moderately  and  consecutively  rather  than  once  severely.  The 
evening  is  the  best  time  for  fumigating,  following  it  up  by  another 
dose  the  following  morning.  If  mildew  appear,  paint  the  hot-water 
pipes  with  a  cream  foimed  of  flowers  of  sulphur  and  skim  milk.  The 
fumes  given  (ff  will  kill  white  fly  and  mildew,  also  red  spider.  Canker 
is  unusually  prevalent ;  freshly  slaked  lime  rubbed  into  the  affected 
parts  will  arrest  its  progress. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Early  Forced  Trees. — Fertilise  the  blossoms 
as  the  pollen  becomes  ripe,  using  a  camel’s  hair  brush,  feather,  or 
rabbit’s  tail  mounted  on  a  small  stick ;  these  are  better  and  more 
effectual  than  shaking  the  trellis.  When  the  fruit  is  well  set  syringe 
the  trees  occasionally  in  the  morning  or  early  part  of  the  afternoon, 
to  assist  the  fruit  in  casting  the  remains  of  the  flowers.  In  bright 
weather  syringing  may  be  practised  in  the  morning  and  afternoon  ; 
but  when  dull  have  recourse  to  it  in  the  morning,  this  and  damping  in 
the  afternoon  being  sufficient.  The  water  employed  must  be  of  the 
same  temperature  as  the  house,  and  the  inside  border  should  be  duly 
supplied  with  it.  Disbudding  will  soon  require  to  be  attended  to,  but 
it  must  be  done  with  discretion  at  this  early  season,  it  being  better  to 
remove  a  few  shoots  daily  from  a  tree  than  many  at  a  time  at  distant 
intervals.  The  night  temperature  may  now  be  maintained  at  55°  to  60° 
on  mild  nights,  60°  to  65°  by  day,  5°  less  as  the  medium  when  the 
weather  is  severe  and  dull,  admitting  a  little  air  at  65°,  not  allowing 
an  advance  over  70°  without  full  ventilation,  always  excepting  a  little 
left  at  the  top  of  the  house  constantly. 
Second  Early  Forced  Trees. — When  the  blossoms  show  colour  on  the 
trees  started  at  the  new  year  syringing  must  cease,  but  the  paths  and 
borders  should  be  damped  in  the  morning  and  afternoon.  Supply 
water  as  required  to  keep  the  border  in  a  thoroughly  moist  state.  Keep 
a  sharp  look  out  for  aphides.  If  there  be  any  fumigate  the  house  on 
two  or  three  consecutive  evenings  moderately,  which  will  be  sufficient 
to  keep  the  pests  under  until  the  fruit  is  set.  In  case  of  an  excess  of 
blossom  buds,  and  they  are  abundant  this  season,  also  promising, 
draw  the  hand  the  contrary  way  of  the  growths  along  the  under  side  or 
back  of  the  trellis,  so  as  to  remove  the  number  of  bloom  buds,  which 
will  increase  the  vigour  of  those  left,  therewith  tending  to  a  more 
even  and  better  swelling  of  the  fruit  after  setting. 
Succession  Houses.  — Push  forward  the  pruning  of  the  trees,  cleans¬ 
ing  of  the  house,  dressing  the  trees  with  an  insecticide,  and  re¬ 
adjusting  them  to  the  trellis,  leaving  plenty  of  room  in  the  ligatures 
for  the  swelling  of  the  branches.  The  surface  of  the  border  may  be 
pointed  over  with  a  fork,  but  not  disturbing  the  roots,  the  loose  soil 
removed,  and  fresh  loam  supplied,  sprinkling  on  it  about  4  ozs.  per 
square  yard  of  a  mixture  of  steamed  bonemeal  three  parts,  sulphate  of 
potash  two  parts,  and  sulphate  of  magnesia  one  part,  mixed.  If  the 
borders  are  at  all  dry  they  should  be  given  a  thorough  watering. 
Houses,  however,  that  have  movable  roof-lights,  and  these  being  off, 
will  not  require  any  water,  the  soil  being  thoroughly  moist  from  rain. 
I 
_  HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
Confining  Bees  in  Winter. 
A  COMMON  error  often  made  by  bee-keepers  in  their  anxiety  to 
prevent  the  bees  suffering  from  the  extreme  cold  is  to  confine  them 
to  the  hives  by  closing  the  entrance.  This  ought  only  to  be  done  when 
the  colony  has  to  be  removed  some  distance  by  road  or  rail.  Ample 
ventilation  should  then  be  provided  by  using  a  piece  of  perforated 
zinc  to  prevent  the  bees  leaving.  Our  attention  has  lately  been 
drawn  to  a  case  in  point.  The  entrance  to  a  Irame  hive  had  been 
accidentally  closed,  how  long  we  were  unable  to  discover;  but  from 
the  condition  of  the  bees  they  had  probably  been  confined  for  at 
least  a  month,  and  there  was  not  a  living  bee  in  the  hive. 
What  is  the  cause  of  bees  dying  in  this  manner  when  the  entrance 
is  closed  for  a  few  wqeks  at  midwinter  ?  We  cannot  say  they  were 
suffocated,  as  it  was  impossible  to  close  the  entrance  quite  closely, 
although  there  was  not  sufficient  space  for  a  bee  to  pass  through. 
The  small  space  unclosed  was  the  fatal  error.  The  first  fine  day 
after  the  bees  were  made  prisoners,  when  the  sun  was  shining  directly 
on  the  entrance,  they  would  do  their  utmost  to  leave  their  hive. 
Being  foiled  in  the  attempt,  they  gradually  became  numbed  owing  to 
the  low  temperature  that  prevailed,  and  so  were  unable  to  return  to 
the  cluster.  This  alone  shows  what  a  dangerous  practice  it  is  to 
close  the  entrance  at  any  time. 
Making  Candy. 
We  are  reminded  there  are  constantly  new  reader.®,  and  as  we  have 
recently  advised  some  of  them  to  feed  their  bees  that  are  short  of 
stores  at  this  season  with  candy,  it  may  be  of  some  assistance  to  them 
if  we  stale,  as  briefly  as  possible,  how  to  make  it.  Candy  is  not 
always  made  properly  at  the  first  attempt,  but,  like  many  other  things, 
practice  makes  perfect,  and  with  a  little  patience  a  novice  may  soon 
prove  how  easily  a  fine-grained,  moist,  saft  candy  is  made.  If  it  is 
coarse-grained  the  bees  will  not  be  able  to  consume  it,  and  during  the 
prevalence  of  fine  weather  they  may  be  seen  carrying  it  from  their 
hive.  We  have  had  experience  of  this,  as  we  were  not  successful  in 
our  initial  efforts. 
We  prefer  a  paraffin  or  gas  stove,  as  they  are  clean,  and  the  heat 
can  be  regulated,  which  cannot  be  done  so  readily  over  an  open  fire. 
Use  a  fine  granulated  sugar,  a  brass*  or  enamelled  iron  preserving  pan 
should  be  used,  into  which  put  12  lbs.  of  sugar,  two  imperial  pints  of 
water,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar.  Set  on  the  stove, 
stirring  constantly  to  prevent  burning,  until  it  comes  to  the  boil. 
Turn  "the  hurt  ers  slightly  down  to  prevent  boiling  over  until  the 
mass  begins  to  settle  down  to  boil,  which  is  readily  known  by  its 
frothiness.  Continue  stirring,  and  have  ready  a  cup  of  cold  water  for 
testing  it,  and  with  a  teaspoon  lift  out  a  little  syrup  and  drop  it  into 
the  water.  If  it  lie  at  the  bottom  of  the  cup  so  as  to  lift  like  very 
thick  paste  or  puttv  it  is  just  right,  and  ready  to  be  removed  from 
the  fire.  If  too  much  boiled  the  syrup  will  be  hard  and  crisp  m  the 
water.  This  may  be  remedied  by  adding  a  little  water  to  the  syrup 
after  its  removal  from  the  fire.  v  i  f 
Much  will  depend  on  the  class  of  sugar  used  as  to  the  length  ot 
time  required  in  boiling.  If  the  most  suitable  for  the  purpose  is 
obtained  two  minutes  will  suffice,  whereas  another  class  of  sugar 
similar  in  appearance  will  take  ten  minutes.  The  pan  should  then  be 
placed  in  cold  water  to  hasten  the  cooling  process.  \Miilst  this 
taking  place  prepare  some  shallow  dishes,  and  into  these  place  sheets 
of  thin  paper,  slightly  larger  than  the  dish.  When  all  is  in  readiness 
return  to  the  pan  of  cooling  liquor,  which  should  now  be  kept 
constantly  stirred.  At  first  it  will  be  dark  in  colour,  but  as  it  cools 
it  will  have  a  greasy  appearance,  gradually  getting  whiter  and  stitter. 
It  should  then  be  poured  into  the  shallow  dishes  and  allowed  to  cool. 
The  candy  may  be  removed  from  the  dishes  as  soon  as  cold,  and  will 
then  be  ready  for  use. — An  English  Bee-keeper. 
