62 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
January  18,  1900. 
TRADE  CATALOGUES  RECEIVED. 
J.  Backhouse  &  Co.,  Ltd.,  York. — Seeds. 
Barr  &  Son,  12,  King  Street,  Covent  Garden. — Seeds. 
G.  Bunyard  &  Co.,  Maidstone. — Seeds. 
A.  Dickson  &  Sons,  55,  Royal  Avenue,  Belfast. — See  s. 
IV.  Fromow  &  Sons,  Chiswick. — Seeds. 
W.  J.  Godfrey,  Exmoath. — Chrysanthemums. 
Harrison  &  Sons,  Leicester.  —  Wholesale  Seed  Catalogue. 
F.  C.  Heinemann,  Erfurt. — Seeds. 
A.  Perry,  Winchmore  Hill. — Hardy  Border  and  Bock  Plants. 
'R.  Pringle,  Belvoir  Street,  Leicaster.  —Seeds, 
Ail  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be 
directed  to  “The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Cbambers, 
Fleet  Street,  Iiondon,  E.C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one 
will  write  privately  to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking 
information  on  matters  discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so 
subjects  them  to  unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  depart¬ 
mental  writers  are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they 
may  receive  on  Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post. 
If  information  be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any 
particular  authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made 
to  obtain  It  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accom¬ 
panied  by  the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will 
neither  be  published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  noms  de  flume 
are  given  for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only  ;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
Begonia  weltoniensis  {Amateur). — This  is  a  useful  plant  for  con¬ 
servatory  decoration,  as  well  as  two  or  three  other  kinds  of  a  similar 
nature.  The  earliest  plants  may  be  shortened  back  and  placed  in  a 
temperature  of  50°  until  they  show  signs  of  growth,  when  the  old  soil 
should  be  shaken  from  their  roots  and  the  plants  repotted  in  a  fresh 
compost.  The  plants  can  be  placed  in  the  same  size  pots  or  smaller. 
If  the  latter  they  will  soon  need  repotting.  They  will  be  found  to 
succeed  well  in  three  parts  of  loam  to  one  of  leaf  mould,  with  a  liberal 
quantity  of  sand  according  to  the  texture  of  the  loam,  and  one-seventh 
of  old  Mushroom  bed  refuse.  Water  with  care  until  the  plants  are 
growing  freely.  They  will  start  well  in  a  virery  if  no  better  position 
can  be  found  for  them. 
Erica  candidissima  (P.  H.).— Market  plants  of  this  variety  that 
Rower  well  cannot  readily  be  had  in  the  same  condition  the  following 
season.  If  cut  back,  allowed  to  start  into  growth,  then  repotted  and 
given  an  extra  season,  removing  any  flowers  that  appear,  they  make 
splendid  plants.  The  same  may  he  said  of  E.  hyemalis  that  are  cut 
back  late.  They  often  only  make  short  growth,  which  flowers  profusely 
if  allowed  to  do  so,  and,  strange  to  say,  these  plants  have  much  better 
coloured  flowers  than  those  grown  for  market.  If  the  flowers  are 
removed  and  the  plants  allowed  to  extend  their  shoots  good  stock  will 
be  produced  with  shoots  18  inches  to  2  feet  in  length.  Keep  these 
plants  perfectly  cool,  give  abundance  of  air  and  water  carefully,  but 
never  allow  them  to  become  dry. 
Where  and  How  to  Keep  Loam  {E.  T.  H.).—We  presume  the  loam 
is  the  ordinary  yellow  or  hazel  cut  in  turves  of  about  3  inches  thickness. 
The  best  place  for  it  is  an  open  situation,  though  usually  placed  by  a 
hedge,  fence,  or  wall  on  a  dry  bottom,  that  is,  water  on  the  surface 
draining  away  from  it.  The  turves  are  best  stacked  grass  side  down¬ 
wards  in  piles  longer  than  wide ;  we  prefer  the  stack  twice  as  long  as 
wide,  and  the  height  about  equal  to  the  width,  taken  up  perpendicular 
at  the  sides  and  ends,  and  at  the  top  span-roofed  like  the  roof  of  a 
house.  Thus  ridged  the  stack  cannot  be  deluged  by  heavy  rains,  and 
has  a  chance  from  its  sides  and  ends  being  exposed  to  the  atmosphere 
to  become  thoroughly  aerated  and  nitrified,  turf  stacks  gaining  in 
nitrates  considerably  by  such  exposure.  It  will  absorb  some  moisture 
from  the  soil  and  remain  in  good  condition  indefinitely,  the  roots  of 
trees  not  having  access  to  it. 
Solanum  capsicastrum  {Tyro).  —  As  your  conveniences  are  ex¬ 
tremely  limited,  we  should  not  cut  back  the  plants  until  April,  then 
by  the  time  fresh  growths  push  the  weather  may  be  warm  enough  for 
their  being  placed  in  a  very  sheltered  position  outdoors,  protecting 
them  from  frosts  which  may  occur  in  May,  and  cutting  winds.  More 
than  half  the  old  soil  should  be  removed  from  the  roots  after  fresh 
growth  starts,  repotting  firmly  in  good  turfy  loam,  a  sixth  part  of 
crumbled  manure,  and  a  tenth  of  wood  ashes.  The  pots  may  be  plunged 
just  over  their  rims  in  a  sunny  border  for  the  summer,  standing  them 
on  smaller  pots  in  the  ground  to  prevent  worms  passing  to  the  roots. 
They  must  be  watered  as  needed,  which  will  not  be  half  so  frequently  as 
if  the  pots  were  exposed.  Clear  soot  wafer  is  good  for  Solanums  when 
the  pots  are  filled  with  roots.  Some  persons  plant  them  out  towards 
the  end  of  May,  lifting  carefully,  and  potting  firmly  in  September, 
watering  well,  sprinkling  the  folia  e,  and  letting  the  plants  stand  in  the 
shade  for  a  time  for  keeping  the  leaves  fresh  and  inciting  quick  root 
action.  We  have  seen  fine  plants  grown  in  that  way,  but  all  persons  do 
not  succeed  alike. 
Forcing  Seakale  {Nemo). — You  will  find  tubs,  similar  to  that  shown 
in  fig.  12,  extremely  useful  for  the  forcing  of  Seakale.  The  practical 
article  by  Mr.  E.  Barrow,  on  page  52,  will  probably  convey  all  the 
information  you  require.  If  such  is  not  the  case,  do  not  hesitate  to 
write  again,  as  we  are  always  glad  to  be  of  assistance  to  our  readers. 
Pruning  Orchard  House  Fruit  Trees  (F.  C.  S.). — The  removal  of 
crowded  branches,  those  ihaf  moss  bnd  interlace  with  others,  small 
spray  growing  in  the  interior  of  trees,  and  dead  portions  of  wood  are 
the  chief  details  necessary  in  keeping  trees  healthy  and  fruitful. 
Though  thin  disposal  of  the  branches  is  very  essential,  severe  thinning 
a"  one  operation  is  not  desirable,  should  the  trees  be  exceptionally  full 
of  rank  growth  in  consequence  of  previous  years’  neglect.  A  reason¬ 
able  amount  may,  however,  be  taken  out,  each  branch  removed  being 
cut  close  at  its  junction  with  another,  which  will  prevent  young  shoots 
breaking  strongly  afterwards.  Among  a  host  of  crowded  branches 
there  is  invariably  an  amount  of  dead  shoots.  These  of  course  may  be 
cut  out.  The  access  of  air  and  light  prevents  wood  dying  if  trees  are 
otherwise  healthy,  and  a  free  extension  of  the  branches  within  moderate 
limits,  so  that  the  foliage  can  properly  perforin  its  functions,  favours 
the  production  of  sturdy  fruit  buds  instead  of  a  preponderance  of 
Wi  od  growth.  A  little  regulation  yearly,  especially  in  the  autumn 
before  the  leaves  fall,  thinning  out  any  obstructing  branches  then, 
serves  generally  to  maintain  large  standard  garden  and  orchard  fruit 
trees  in  shapely  form  and  prolific  bearing. 
Potatoes  in  Pots  (A.  A.). — Extra  early,  if  not  very  heavy  crops  of 
Potatoes  can  be  had  from  9-inch  or  somewhat  larger  pots,  set  on 
shelves  at  the  back  and  on  the  beds  and  front  stages  of  vineries  and 
Peach  houses  being  forced.  The  earliest  short-topped  varieties 
are  to  be  preferred  for  this  method  of  culture.  Fairly  strong 
sets,  each  furnished  with  the  first  strong  sprouts  only,  are  desirable, 
these  having  been  previously  started  in  moist  heat.  Old  Chrys¬ 
anthemum  soil,  or  failing  this  a  mixture  of  two  parts  of  light 
loam  to  one  part  of  old  Mushroom-bed  manure  with  a  very  little  soot 
added,  answers  well.  Drain  the  pots  roughly,  and  plant  a  single  set 
•in  each  rather  deeply,  good  room  being  allowed  for  a  top-dressing  to 
be  given  when  the  shoots  have  extended  above  the  level  of  the  r'm  of 
each  pot.  Water  carefully  at  first,  only  enough  being  given  to  keep 
the  soil  just  moist,  and  when  the  pots  are  becoming  well  filled  with 
rots  do  not  let  the  soil  become  dry.  Fairly  deep  boxes  and  large  pots 
may  also  be  utilised  for  a  similar  purpose,  the  sets  being  disposed 
6  inches  apart  each  way. 
