104 
February  1,  1900 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
plants  ;  red  spider  especially  must  be  battled  with.  Apply  the  syringe 
thoroughly  twice  a  day,  getting  well  underneath  the  leaves.  Being 
gross  feeders,  frequent  applications  of  liquid  manure  are  necessary 
when  the  pots  become  full  of  roots.  As  the  days  shorten  the  syringe 
must  be  need  more  sparingly,  allowing  the  tissues  of  the  leaves  to 
harden  somewhat,  thus  preparing  the  plant  for  use  indoors. 
While  small  leaved  varieties  are  the  most  useful  for  table  work, 
the  broad  leaved  ones  should  not  be  overlooked,  as  their  noble  appear¬ 
ance  contrasts  well  with  the  light  graceful  look  of  their  neighbours. 
Angustifolius,  Aigbttrth  Gem,  interruptus  aureus,  picturatus,  and 
aigburthiensis  are  good  narrow  leaved  varieties,  and  Emperor 
Alexander  III.,  Queen  Victoria,  superba,  undulatum,  and  Mrs.  Swan 
are  well  worth  growing  as  broad  leaved  types. — H.  C.  D. 
GAEDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Apricots. — Examine  the  trees  on  walls  before  the  buds  swell  and  the 
flowers  show  to  See  that  no  superfluous  wood  is  retained.  Superfluous 
wood  will  be  that  which  produced  the  last  season’s  crop  in  cases  where 
the  fruit  was  borne  on  young  shoots,  and  these  can  now  be  dispensed 
with,  training  in  their  place  successional  growths  all  over  the  trees, 
furnishing  the  available  space  with  fruiting  shoots.  Apricots,  however, 
do  not  usually  carry  the  whole  crop  on  the  previous  year’s  shoots.  The 
trees  bear  freely  on  spurs,  some  of  which  form  themselves  naturally, 
while  others  may  be  induced  to  do  so  by  shortening  the  superfluous 
young  shoots  to  within  an  inch  of  their  base.  These  are  termed 
artificial  spurs,  and  increase  the  productiveness  of  the  trees  provided 
they  are  not  originated  too  thickly.  If  weak  or  exhausted  branches 
have  to  be  cut  out  the  remainder  will  require  re-arranging.  Young 
shoots  may  be  trained  in  about  4  inches  apart,  and  if  shortened,  prune 
to  a  triple  bud. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — The  pruning,  re-arranging  of  branches, 
and  training  of  these  fruits  on  outdoor  walls  must  follow  attention 
given  to  Apricots.  Cut  out  old  and  half-exhausted,  also  weak  and 
immature  wood,  and  thin  the  remainder  if  likely  to  be  too  crowded. 
The  young  shoots  may  be  secured  4  inches  apart.  The  best  fruit  is 
produced  on  the  young  wood,  spur  growths  not  generally  being 
originated  on  Peaches  and  Nectarines.  Before  all  the  young  wood  not 
wanted  is  cut  out  dispose  the  main  branches  on  the  wall,  secure  them, 
and  follow  with  the  secondary  branches,  then  nailing  in  the  fruiting 
wood  at  the  distance  of  4  inches  apart.  The  superfluous  shoots  may 
be  cut  out  entirely.  As  a  rule  it  is  not  necessary  to  shorten  them 
unless  there  is  not  sufficient  room  for  the  shoot,  or  it  is  of  too  strong 
character. 
When  shortening,  care  must  be  exercised  not  to  cut  the  shoots  to  a 
blossom  bud.  It  must  either  be  to  a  single  wood  bud  or  a  triple  bud, 
as  it  is  very  necessary  for  the  extremity  of  each  shoot  to  form  growth 
which  shall  extend  and  attract  sap  through  the  whole  shoot  for  the 
benefit  of  the  fruit.  A  triple  bud  consists  of  two  fruit  or  blossom  buds 
with  a  wood  bud  in  the  centre.  Wood  buds  may  be  distinguished  by 
their  character,  as  they  are  thin  and  pointed,  and  contain  a  growing 
point,  whereas  blossom  or  fruit  buds  are  round  and  plump,  enclosing 
stamens,  petals,  and  pistil,  the  essential  reproductive  organs,  in  a 
rudimentary  state. 
Avoid  fastening  the  shoots  tightly  with  the  shreds  or  placing  nails 
in  extremely  close  proximity  to  the  branches.  After  the  training  has 
been  finished  it  is  a  good  plan  to  syringe  the  trees  with  a  mixture  of 
sulphur  and  soapy  water  ;  but  if  the  trees  have  been  seriously  infested 
with  red  spider  or  any  other  pest  they  should  receive  a  preliminary 
dressing  with  a  stronger  and  more  efi'ective  insecticide  prior  to 
re-arranging  and  training. 
Pruning  Gooseberries. — When  the  winter  pruning  has  been  deferred 
to  the  present  time,  the  first  opportunity  should  be  taken  to  carry  out 
the  work.  Bush  trees  may  first  be  subjected  to  a  general  thinning, 
reducing  the  material  in  the  centre  as  well  as  branches  near  or  descend¬ 
ing  to  the  ground.  A  fair  quantity  of  young  shoots  ought  to  be 
retained  without  any  shortening;  some  may  be  left  at  6  inches,  and  the 
remaining  pruned  back  to  form  spurs,  cutting  them  to  within  an  inch 
of  their  base.  Large  bushes  ought  to  have  a  space  of  6  feet  between 
them.  It  is  impossible  to  properly  thin  and  prune  the  bushes  if  they 
are  allowed  to  remain  too  thickly  together. 
Gooseberries  are  often  treated  on  the  same  system  as  Red  and 
White  Currants,  but  it  is  a  mistake  to  do  this  if  the  buds  are  attacked 
by  birds,  as  there  will  be  few  left  to  produce  fruit.  The  best  system  is 
either  to  thin  out  the  bushes  by  the  removal  of  the  most  crowded 
portions,  or  to  reduce  the  superfluous  shoots  to  within  an  inch  of  their 
base,  the  others  being  left  at  full  length  or  partially  shortened,  but  it 
will  be  useless  to  do  the  latter  with  any  shoots  denuded  of  buds. 
Red  and  White  Currants. — The  pruning  of  these  should  now  be 
completed.  In  a  properly  established  bush  the  branches  will  have  been 
originated  at  equal  distances,  hence  no  thinning-out  of  main  branches 
is,  as  a  rule,  necessary.  In  time,  however,  branches  deteriorate, 
making  it  imperative  to  out  them  out,  replacing  them  with  strong 
young  growths  from  the  base.  The  side  shoots  on  the  established 
main  branches  ought  now  to  be  shortened  to  within  an  inch  of  their 
base.  The  leading  shoot  on  each  branch  must  also  be  pruned  closely 
if  extension  has  ceased,  but  in  the  case  of  young  branches  the  leading 
shoot  is  annually  shortened  to  8  or  9  inches  until  the  full  length  of  the 
main  branch  is  reached.  The  side  shoots  are  pruned  in  the  usual  way, 
but  summer  pruning  is  also  essential. 
Black  Currants. — The  vigorous  growths  produced  by  Black  Currant 
bushes  annually  are  the  most  suitable  for  bearing  fruit.  If  the  bushes 
are  kept  well  replenished  with  such,  without  overcrowding,  there  will 
be  ample  crops  of  fruit.  The  old  shoots  may  be  freely  cut  out,  as  they 
only  serve  to  crowd  and  weaken.  Dead  wood  must  be  removed  whenever 
seen,  and  weak  shoots  ought  to  be  dispensed  with. 
American  Blackberries. — The  annual  growths  of  these  are  long, 
and  in  pruning  simply  require  to  be  shortened  one-fourth,  as  this- 
portion  is  rarely  if  ever  sufficiently  ripened  to  bear  fruit.  The  fruiting 
canes  of  the  previous  year  may  be  cut  out  entirely. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — Raising  Plants  in  Frames. — The  old-fashioned  and  stilt 
excellent  method  of  growing  Cucumbers  in  pits  and  frames  has  not 
been  entirely  superseded  by  the  hot-water  pipes  system,  and  persons 
who  do  not  sow  seeds  before  February  often  cut  fruits  quite  as  early 
as  some  do  with  an  inadequacy  of  heat-furnishing  material,  and  who 
sow  at  the  new  year.  The  material  for  making  the  bed  for  raising 
the  seedlings  being  in  a  fit  condition  through  turning  and  mixing 
with  leaves,  so  as  to  induce  a  sweet  regular  heat,  a  site  for  a  bed 
shoirld  be  chosen  with  a  full  southern  aspect,  and  having  shelter  to  the 
north,  such  as  that  of  a  hedge  or  wall.  If  the  ground  be  rather 
higher  where  the  bed  is  to  be  formed  than  the  surrounding  level  all 
the  better.  Mix  and  beat  the  materials  well  down  as  the  work  pro- 
ceeds,  using  the  fork,  and  making  the  bed  about  5  feet  high  at  the 
back,  and  4  feet  6  inches  in  front,  which  will  allow  for  settling,  as  it 
will  do  about  one-third.  A  few  Pea  sticks  placed  across  and  along  the 
bed  at  intervals  not  only  prevent  overheating,  but  admit  the  heat 
from  the  linings  being  conveyed  to  the  interior  of  the  bed. 
For  early  work  frames  with  an  inner  lining  are  advantageous. 
They  are  formed  by  placing  quarter-inch  boards  11  inches  in  depth  at 
the  back,  and  9  inches  in  front,  with  the  bottom  edges  level  with  the 
bittom  of  the  box,  and  then  the  boards,  which  form  an  inch  cavity  all 
round  the  inside  by  affixing  them  on  strips  of  wood  an  inch  wide  and 
thick  nailed  on  the  inside  of  the  box,  and  thus  top  heat  is  furnished. 
In  a  week  after  making  up  the  bed  and  putting  on  the  frame  and  light, 
level  the  surface  of  bed,  replace  the  box  and  put  in  sufficient 
sweetened  fermenting  material  to  raise  the  inside  to  within  4  inches  of 
the  inner  frame  or  casing,  placing  partially  decayed  rather  dry  leaves  or 
sifted  spent  tan  on  the  manure  for  plunging  the  pots. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  House. — The  trees  will 
need  an  occasional  syringing  after  the  fruit  is  set  to  assist  them 
in  casting  off  the  dead  remains  of  the  flowers,  and  when  the 
weather  is  bright  they  should  be  syringed  every  morning  and  after¬ 
noon  when  the  fruit  is  swelling  freely  in  order  to  keep  down  red 
spider.  If,  however,  the  weather  be  dull,  the  syringing  must  be 
practised  early  in  the  afternoon,  so  that  the  trees  may  become  fairly 
dry  before  night,  or  if  that  does  not  take  place,  the  afternoon  syringing 
must  be  dispensed  with,  damping  the  paths  and  borders  instead,  as 
keeping  the  trees  dripping  with  water  through  the  night  causes  weak 
growth,  thin  foliage,  and  discoloured  points  of  the  leaves.  Water  the 
inside  border  with  liquid  manure,  which  will  assist  the  fruit  in  swelling, 
especially  in  the  case  of  weakly  trees  long  subjected  to  repeated  forcing. 
Vigorous  trees  will  not  require  stimulants,  excessive  vigour  being 
unfavourable  to  the  fruit  safely  passing  the  stoning  process.  Remove  a 
few  of  the  worst  placed  and  surplus  fruits,  but  thin  carefully  until  the 
fruit  is  the  size  of  a  small  marble.  Disbudding  also  must  be  performed 
carefully  and  gradually,  leaving  a  growth  at  the  base  of  each  bearing 
shoot,  and  another  at  its  extremity,  or  at  least  level  with  the  fruit. 
The  shoots  retained  for  attracting  the  sap  to  and  supporting  the  fruit 
should  be  stopped  at  the  third  leaf,  but  the  basal  shoots  must  be  trained 
to  take  the  place  of  those  now  bearing  fruit.  Shoots  upon  extensions 
must  be  left  12  to  15  inches  distance  apart  to  form  the  bearing  shoots 
of  the  future.  It  is  a  great  mistake  to  crowd  the  trees  with  growth  for 
which  there  is  not  space  enough  to  allow  of  its  full  exposure  to  light 
and  air ;  therefore  avoid  overcrowding,  seeking  to  maintain  an  equal 
balance  of  growth  throughout  the  trees,  and  its  solidification  by  judicious 
ventilation. 
Second  Early  House, — Trees  started  at  the  new  year  will  be  in 
blossom,  and  should  have  a  temperature  of  50°,  5°  less  on  cold  nights, 
50°  to  55°  by  day  artificially,  and  60°  to  65°  from  sun  heat,  not  allowing  a 
rise  above  65°  without  full  ventilation.  Lose  no  opportunity  of 
admitting  air,  ventilating  from  50°,  avoiding,  however,  cold  currents, 
and  leave  a  little  ventilation  constantly  at  the  apex  of  the  house.  Damp 
the  surfaces  occasionally  to  secure  a  genial  atmosphere,  but  avoid  a 
close  saturated  one.  Shake  the  trees  on  fine  morning  to  disperse  the 
