174 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
Mm-cIi  ],  1900. 
Eenewed  interest  appears  to  spring  up  in'the  nnnd  of  the  culti¬ 
vator  when  several  healthy  rooted  cuttings  are  ready  for  their  first 
potting.  It  may  he  that  the  cuttings  were  inserted  singly  in  small 
pots,  which  they  have  now  filled  with  pushing  rootlets  that  are  seek¬ 
ing  fresh  feeding  ground  ;  and  if  they  should  remain  long  in  these  pots 
the  growth  will  be  weaKer  than  is  desirable,  hence  these  small  plants 
require  attention  first.  Rooting  cuttings  round  the  edges  of  S-inch 
pots  is  a  common  and  ready  method  of  securing  a  good  stock,  as  the 
cuttings  often  root  more  freely  in  this  position  fthan  they  do  in  the 
centre  of  a  mass  of  soil  in  smaller  pots.  Both  methods  are  good,  and 
with  care  successful  rooting  follows,  and  little  check  is  given  in  the 
potting.  Numbers  of  cuttings  are  also  rooted  in  shallow  boxes  and 
beds.  All,  however,  should  be  placed  in  pots  when  sufficiently 
rooted,  and  before  the  roots  mat  themselves  together  or  the  tcp  growth 
elongates. 
As  a  rule  the  best  size  of  pot  for  the  first  potting  is  a  3-inch.  That 
the  receptacles  should  be  clean  and  dry  is  essential.  The  crocks 
employed  es  drainage  material  must  also  be  in  the  same  condition. 
The  compost  ought  to  be  previously  prepared,  and  in  the  condition  of 
being  neither  wet  nor  dry.  Well  decayed  fibrous  loam,  carefully 
pulled  into  small  pieces  with  the  hand,  should  form  the  base  of  the 
compost.  Two  parts  of  loam  to  one  of  leaf  soil  will  form  a  suitable 
compost,  adding  a  moderate  proportion  of  sharp  sand.  If  the  loam  be 
of  a  heavy  character,  the  addition  of  crushed  charcoal  will  tend  to 
insure  its  porosity.  A  very  rich  and  elaborate  soil  is  not  necessary  at 
first.  It  is  more  desirable  that  the  growth  should  be  stocky  and 
short  jointed,  even  if  it  is  longer  in  being  produced,  than  to  be  run  up 
quickly. 
Arrange  the  drainage  in  the  pots  carefully  so  that  little  suffices, 
and  cover  with  some  of  the  turfy  parts  of  the  compost.  Cuttings  rooted 
in  24-inch  pots  can  scarcely  be  accommodated  in  the  3-inch  size,  therefore 
provide  for  them  4-inch  pots.  When  several  cuttings  are  in  one  pot 
they  will  turn  out  better  when  well  rooted,  and  can  be  divided  readily 
without  the  soil  falling  away  from  the  roots.  All  cuttings  do  not  root 
alike.®  Some  are  rather  slow  in  the  process,  and  it  may  be  found 
necessary  to  divide  and  pot  them  while  yet  they  have  lew  roots.  The 
soil  frequently  does  not  adhere  to  these,  but  falls  away,  hence  the  roots 
must  be  placed  directly  into  fresh  cempost,  which  they  frequently  take 
to  readily.  Before  placing  the  plants  in  the  pots,  introduce  a  little 
compost  over  the  drainage,  on  which  place  the  plants  and  carefully  lay 
out  the  roots  in  it  which  are  free  and  loose.  Fill  in  more  soil,  then 
shake  the  w'hole  down  by  a  few  knocks  or  jars  on  the  bench. 
This  will  usually  fix  the  plants  and  the  soil  firmly  enough  for  the  first 
potting. 
The  best  position  for  the  newly  potted  plants  is  a  frame,  arranging 
them  on  a  bed  of  ashes,  which  must  be  kept  moist,  and  the  plants  not 
far  from  the  glass.  Water  may  not  be  required  for  a  few  days  if  the 
soil  was  moist  when  potting,  but  should  the  weather  be  bright  syringe 
the  plants  early  in  the  afternoon,  and  keep  a  little  close  at  fiist,  simply 
to  encourage  fresh  root  action.  The  close  confinement  must  not  be 
carried  on  too  long :  immediately  it  is  seen  that  new  growth  is 
commencing  afford  more  air.  Give  water  as  required,  keeping  an  eye 
on  the  plants  on  breezy  sunny  days,  as  the  soil  is  then  liable  to  dry 
quickly.  Frosty  nights  often,  occur  during  March,  and  with  the  plants 
close  to  the  glass  they  may  suffer  if  this  is  not  protected  at  u'ghts. 
A  single  thickness  of  dry  Uiatting  will  keep  out  much  frost,  and  render 
the  growth  safe.  The  young  plants  are  moderately  tender  at  this 
period,  and  it  is  well  no.  to  allow  the  sheets  to  be  frozen.  If  in  a 
slightly  heated  frame  covering  the  glass  is  not  neci  ssary,  but  heat  for 
the  plants  is  not  desirable  after  the  first  week  succeeding  potting 
unless  weather  be  severe.  Small  sticks  may  be  placed  to  each  plant 
as  supports. 
Gieen  fly  ought  not,  but  often  does,  appear  in  the  points  of  shoots 
at  this  early  stage,  and  is  frequently,  th(  ugh  not  always,  the  result 
of  neglect  in  watering  or  giving  the  plants  a  check  in  some  way.  The 
best  remedy  is  fumigation  or  vaporising.  Dusting  the  infested  parts 
with  tobacco  powder  one  day  and  washing  it  off  the  next  is  also  a 
capital  remedy.  It  is  seldom,  however,  the  insects  are  troublesome 
wdien  regular  and  systematic  attentien  is  given  in  watering  and  the 
supply  of  fresh  air. 
Another  evil  olten  asserts  itself  at  this  juncture,  and  this  is  fungoid 
pests.  Mildew  and  rust  aie  the  chief,  and  the  grower  wants  no  more, 
but  desiies  ardently  to  free  the  plants  of  these.  Mildew  lays  on  the 
leaves  like  a  white  powder.  Rust  appears  in  dark  detached  spots.  A 
len  edy  for  loth  formsef  fungus  is  suljhide  of  potassiim,  hall  anounce 
to  one  gallon  of  water.  This  must  be  sprayed  upon  the  foliage,  first 
picking  off'  the  worst  infested  leaves  which  can  be  spared.  Repeat  the 
application  until  all  signs  of  the  fungus  disappear  and  thoroughly 
clean  and  healthy  leaves  are  present  only. 
As  the  plants  advance  in  growth  give  air  abundantly  on  every 
favourable  occasion,  avoiding  cold  winds.  When  the  latter  are  not  in 
evidence  a  little  daily  full  exposure  will  be  highly  beneficial  to  the 
plants. — Grower. 
PEIZE  GRAPES. 
The  accompanying  prhotographs  portray  the  two’first-prizelstands 
of  black  and  white  Grapes  exhibited  at  the  last  Bournemouth  Chrys¬ 
anthemum  Exhibition,  by  Mr.  William  Mitchell  of  Chilworth" Manor, 
Romsey.  This  gardener’s  skill  as  a  grower  of  Grapes  is  now  well 
known,  notably  as  taking  many  prizes  at  Brighton,  the  Crystal  Palace, 
Winchester,  Southampton,  and  other  shows  of  importance  during  the 
past  eight  or  nine  years.  His  exhibits  of  that  somewhat  difficult 
Grape,  Mrs.  Pince,  are  always  good,  and  the  three  bunches  of  it 
represented  in  the  photograph  were  excellent.  Mr.  Mitchell,  like 
other  good  growers,  believes  in  plenty  of  water  and  air.  His  success 
with  that  king  of  Grapes,  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  is  equally  good. 
The  three  bunches  of  that  variety  at  Bournemouth  Show  were  cf  a 
beautiful  amber  tint,  and  exquisite  in  shape. 
The  one  Grape  that  does  not  succeed  at  Chilworth  is  Gros  Colman, 
which  seems  the  case  with  many  growers.  My  experience  of  this 
variety  is  that  it  requires  a  long  season  to  perfect  it.  It  is  a  first-rate 
Grape  for  invalids,  and  in  my  opinion  is  immensely  superior  if  allowed 
to  hang  on  the  Vine  to  acquire  sweetness,  which  it  does  not  seem  to 
do  if  cut  much  belore  the  leaves  fall.  If  started  early  and  given  a 
little  fire  heat  in  autumn  it  is  usually  of  a  better  colour  than  if 
treated  as  is  often  done  with  Black  Alicante,  that  is  allowed  to  come 
on  late  and  given  no  fire  heat  in  autumn. — W.  J.  Grace,  Bickton^ 
Fordinghridge. 
NOTES  ON  FIGS. 
The  earliest  trees  in  pots  will  need  assistance  in  swelling  the  fruit. 
A  top-dressing  of  rich  material  applied  to  the  surface  of  the  pots, 
space  being  provided  for  this  purpose  by  a  layer  of  turves  placed  around 
the  rims,  will  afford  steady  supplies  of  nutriment.  The  dressings, 
however,  should  i  oS  be  heavy,  but  a  little  of  the  rich  compost  supplied 
at  weekly  intervals.  Liquid  manure  will  also  be  useful  in  sustaining 
the  health  and  vigour  of  the  trees,  it  being  better  to  afford  a  varied 
rather  than  a  uniform  regimen.  Thus,  watering  with  liquid  manure 
from  stable  or  cow  house  tanks,  or  Peruvian  guano,  1  oz.  to  a  gallon  of 
water,  will  act  better  if  a  sprinkling  of  some  approved  fertiliser  be 
given  about  every  ten  days  or  a  fortnight.  Let  the  water  or  liquid 
he  of  the  same  temperature  as  that  in  which  the  pots  are  placed,  as  a 
check  may  be  fatal  to  the  crop.  Driblets  are  of  no  use,  and  insufficient 
supplies  of  liquid  nourishment  often  cause  the  fruit  to  fall. 
In  order  to  effect  free  development  the  atmosphere  must  be  genial, 
syringing  twice  a  day  when  the  weather  is  bright,  but  avoid  keeping 
the  foliage  constantly  wet.  In  dull  weather  damp  the  paths  and  walls 
instead  of  sj ringing  the  trees,  but  an  occasional  syringing  will  be 
necessary  to  keep  down  red  spider.  If  this  pest  appear  paint 
the  hot  water  pipes  thinly  with  sulphur,  using  a  cream  of  freshly 
slaked  lime  for  mixing.  To  give  the  foliage  consistence  and  enable  it  to 
evaporate  freely,  ccmmence  ventilating  a  little  at  70’,  increasing  it  with 
the  advancing  sun  to  85°,  which  ought  not  to  be  exceeded  before  noon, 
a  rise  of  5°  to  1C°  after  closing  being  beneficial.  A  night  temperature 
of  60°  to  65°  in  mild  weather,  and  5°  less  in  severe  is  suitable,  the  lower 
temperature  being  safer  with  a  rise  of  10°  by  day  in  dull  cold  weather. 
Crowding  the  trees  should  be  avoided,  also  very  close  pinching,  it  being 
better  to  tie  out  or  down  as  the  growth  advances,  confining  the  stopping 
to  nipping  off  the  points  of  the  unruly  shoots  at  the  fifth  or  sixth  leaf, 
rubbing  off  those  not  required.  This  will  usually  give  good  results  in 
the  second  crop. 
Planted-out  Fig  tiees  that  were  started  at  the  new  year  now  require 
disbudding  and  stopping.  It  is  bad  practice  to  leave  more  growths 
than  there  is  room  for,  and  equally  disastrous  to  allow  vigorous  shoots 
to  monopolise  the  sap.  They  should  be  stopped  at  about  the  sixth 
leaf,  this  also  favouring  the  swelling  of  the  first  crop  Figs  and  their 
satisfactory  flowering,  which  is  essential  to  their  perfecting.  Liberal 
supplies  of  water  or  liquid  manuie,  not  too  strong,  will  be  required 
betimes,  and  a  mulching  of  rich  cempost  attracts  the  roots  to  the  surface. 
Where  the  trees  are  in  shallow  and  narrow  borders  roots  may  be 
encouraged  from  the  collar  or  stem  by  placing  pieces  of  fibrous  turf 
and  partially  decayed  mat  ure  in  contact  with  it  and  by  extending  the 
material  outwards  a  number  of  feeders  will  be  secured.  If  these  are 
supplied  with  water  or  liquid  manuie  or  top-di’essings  of  chemical 
manures  they  will  greatly  assist  the  second  crop  of  fruit.  A  night 
temperature  of  55°  to  60°  will  be  suitable.  It, is  advisable  to  give  a 
little  air  at  €5°,  increasing  the  ventilation  with  the  temperature,  and 
reducing  it  in  like  manner,  closing  at  70°,  syringing  twice  a  day,  and 
otherwise  maintaining  a  genial  atmosphere. — G.  A. 
