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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
March  1,  1900. 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Primula  sinensis, 
I  THINK  Chinese  Primulas  rank  among  the  most  popular  and 
serviceable  of  winter  flowering  plants ;  the  variety  of  colours  claims 
for  them  general  admiration,  and  it  would  be  difficult  to  find  a 
substitute  Gr  the  embellishment  of  the  conservatory  at  the  dullest 
season  of  the  year.  If  the  atmosphere  about  them  is  kept  dry  they 
continue  in  bloom  for  a  great  length  of  time.  The  disadvantage  with 
the  singles  is  they  are  of  little  use  in  a  cut  state,  while  the  doubles  are 
of  unquestioned  value. 
Where  an  extended  display  of  flower  is  required  sowings  at  intervals 
from  February  to  May  should  be  made,  but  for  ordinary  purposes  I 
think  the  first  week  in  March  a  good  time  to  commence.  A  compost 
of  yellow  loam  and  leaf  mould  in  equal  parts,  with  a  fair  proportion 
of  silver  sand,  I  find  good  for  this  purpose.  The  whole  should  be 
thoroughly  incorporated  and  sifted  through  a  moderately  fine  sieve. 
Clean,  well  drained  pans  or  pots  may  be  used,  and  should  be  filled  to 
within  an  inch  of  the  top  with  the  soil.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  sprinkle  a 
little  sand  over  the  surface  and  give  a  good  watering  prior  to  sowing. 
The  seeds  should  be  sown  as  thinly  and  evenly  as  possible,  after  which 
cover  lightly  with  fine  soil,  and  place  a  piece  of  shaded  glass  over  the 
whole.  On  a  shelf  in  a  greenhouse,  where  there  is  a  temperature  of 
about  55°  to  60®  is  a  good  place  to  stand  the  receptacles  till  germination 
has  taken  place. 
As  soon  as  the  seedlings  appear  gradually  inure  them  to  more  light 
and  air  by  raising  the  cover  glass  until  it  can  be  removed  altogether, 
but  a  little  shade  will  be  found  necessary  for  a  time  on  bright  days. 
When  they  have  developed  the  third  leaf,  or  can  be  handled  without 
injury,  prick  them  off  into  small  thumb  pots,  and  replace  on  the  shelf 
as  near  the  glass  as  possible.  In  a  few  weeks  they  will  be  ready  for 
another  shift,  which  should  be  into  60’s.  The  compost  this  time  need 
not  be  sifted,  and  a  rather  smaller  proportion  of  sand  should  be  used. 
A  cold  frame  where  the  greatest  possible  amount  of  light  and  air  can 
be  admitted  should  be  chosen  for  them  after  this  potting. 
When  the  roots  are  through  the  soil  their  final  shift  into  4S-pots 
should  be  given.  I  consider  this  size  quite  large  enough.  After 
returning  them  to  the  cold  frame  keep  close  for  two  or  three  days, 
when  root  action  will  have  recommenced.  The  plants  should  never  be 
potted  if  the  ball  of  soil,  and  that  to  be  used,  is  dry.  Firm  potting  is 
always  necessary  for  sturdy  growths,  which  is  conducive  to  a  grand 
display  of  bloom.  The  flowers  should  be  kept  picked  off  till  about  the 
first  week  in  October  ;  the  plants  will  then  bloom  throughout  the 
winter. — Aspirant. 
Early  Strawberries.  (Continued  from  page  146). 
Turning  to  the  forcing  of  these  plants,  shelves  erected  in  Peach 
houses  and  vineries  are  very  suitable  places,  but  they  should  be  as  near 
the  glass  as  possible,  and  not  too  close  to  the  ventilators,  where  cold 
draughts  direct  on  to  the  plants  would  be  liable  to  cause  a  severe  check. 
To  maintain  a  succession  of  fruits,  a  hotbed  ought  to  have  been  made 
consisting  of  litter  and  leaves,  in  which  a  number  of  pots  should  always 
be  plunged,  as  then,  when  one  stock  has  done  its  work  there  will  be  others 
to  follow. 
To  obtain  ripe  fruits  by  the  end  of  February  and  the  beginning  of 
March  the  plants  should  be  placed  in  an  early  vinery  about  the  middle 
of  November,  which  temperature  will  be  found  suitable  until  the  fruits 
are  swelling  ;  then  they  will  require  a  higher  temperature  to  have 
them  ripe  at  the  time  stated.  When  the  plants  are  taken  in  the  pots 
should  be  washed  and  the  drainage  examined,  as  if  the  latter  is  not  in 
proper  condition  the  soil  may  become  sodden  and  sour.  Attend  to  the 
syringing  of  the  plants  mornings  and  afternoons  when  the  weather  is 
bright  to  keep  pests  in  check,  but  this  should  always  be  done  in  time 
to  have  the  foliage  dry  at  night.  When  the  plants  are  in  flower  they 
will  require  a  drier  atmosphere  ;  it  will  be  necessary  to  brush  the 
blooms  daily  with  a  camel’s-hair  brush  or  a  rabbit’s  tail  about  midday 
to  distribute  the  pollen  and  to  insure  a  better  crop.  This  is  an  opera¬ 
tion  that  must  be  carried  out  with  extreme  care,  and  will  be  found  by 
young  men  extremely  interesting  work. 
After  the  fruits  are  set  they  will  require  thinning,  leaving  about  flve 
fruits  on  each  of  the  earliest  plants,  and  seven  to  nine  on  the  later  ones. 
They  will  now  require  abundance  of  water,  never  allowing  the  plants 
to  become  thoroughly  dry  ;  if  so  they  are  liable  to  get  red  spider,  and 
poor  results  will  ensue  ;  liquid  manure  should  be  given  once  daily. 
Strawberries  in  pots  are  very  subject  to  mildew,  and  they  should  be 
examined  carefully  at  intervals,  and  if  any  signs  of  it  appear  dust  a 
little  flowers  of  sulphur  on  the  affected  parts  before  the  enemy  reaches 
the  fruit. 
When  the  fruits  are  swelling  the  plants  ought  to  be  removed  to  a 
temperature  of  65°  to  70°  at  night,  that  is  for  the  early  ones.  As  the 
fruits  show  signs  of  colour  discontinue  the  use  of  liquid  manure  and 
the  syringe,  and  admit  a  little  air  at  nights  if  the  weather  is  favourable. 
When  the  fruits  are  about  ripe  remove  the  plants  to  a  cooler  house  that 
has  a  temperature  of  about  55°  with  plenty  of  air,  as  the  fruits  will  keep 
much  longer  and  be  of  superior  flavour.  The  varieties  to  force  I  will 
leave  for  the  growers  to  decide,  as  there  are  several  to  choose  from, 
but  my  opinion  is  that  Royal  Sovereign  is  one  of  the  best  for  this 
purpose. — P.  R. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Spring  Planting  Strawberries. — Strawberries  may  be  established  in 
spring,  though  not  with  the  intention  of  fruiting  them  the  same  season, 
unless  the  plants  can  be  so  moved  and  planted  that  the  roots  are  not 
disturbed  in  the  process.  As  a  rule,  however,  spring  planting  does  not 
lend  itself  to  securing  a  crop  the  season  immediately  following,  and  it 
is  best  not  to  allow  the  plants  to  fruit.  They  may  be  encouraged  to 
develop  the  flower  stems  sufficiently  far  so  that  it  is  known  the  plants 
are  fruitful  in  character,  but  to  bear  a  crop  the  first  season  weakens 
them  considerably,  for  the  energies  of  the  plants  are  devoted  to 
maturing  the  fruit,  whereas  they  should  be  directed  to  building  up 
strong  crowns  for  the  succeeding  season. 
Preparation  of  the  Soil. — A  good  depth  of  loamy  soil  in  an  open 
aspect  is  the  most  suitable  position  for  Strawberries.  Thorough  prepa¬ 
ration  of  the  ground  must  be  made,  either  now  or  previously  in  the 
autumn,  and  the  liberal  addition  of  manure  of  a  well-decayed 
character.  In  working  the  land  it  is  desirable  to  keep  the  best  soil 
at  the  surface  and  the  subsoil  in  its  original  position.  Heavy  soil 
requires  lightening  by  incorporating  with  it  wood  ashes  and  gritty 
material,  which  tend  to  keep  it  open,  while  very  light  soils  are  improved 
by  the  addition  of  pulverised  clay  or  marl.  Also,  recently  prepared 
light  soils  must  be  well  firmed  before  planting  is  done.  Compression 
tends  to  keep  in  the  moisture,  and  Strawberries  root  better  in  firm  soil. 
Planting. — The  planting  should  be  carried  out  when  the  weather  is 
favourable  and  the  surface  soil  dry.  As  a  general  rule,  the  distance 
between  the  rows  will  be  2  feet,  placing  the  plants  in  the  rows 
18  inches  asunder.  Some  of  the  strongest  growing  varieties  may  be 
planted  in  rows  30  inches  apart,  the  plants  “20  inches  asunder,  but  for 
the  majority  the  former  distances  are  ample.  Plants  that  can  be  lifted 
from  nursery  beds  in  the  same  garden  or  within  easy  access  move  with 
plenty  of  roots  and  soil  attached  and  soon  become  established. 
Stock,  however,  which  is  purchased  may  have  a  fair  amount  of 
roots,  but  no  soil  is  adhering,  hence  more  care  is  necessary  in  planting. 
Keep  the  fibres  as  fresh  as  possible,  protecting  them  from  sun  and 
air.  Should  they  have  become  very  dry  they  ought  to  be  thoroughly 
wetted  and  plumped  up  in  water  previous  to  planting.  The  method 
of  planting  these  should  be  first  to  draw  a  drill,  and  in  the  drill  form 
small  mounds  of  soil  on  which  place  the  plants,  spreading  out  the  roots 
equally,  and  cover  them  with  fine  mould  spread  carefully  upon  the  fibres 
from  the  crown  outwards,  the  latter  being  level  with  the  surface  of  the 
ground.  Make  the  soil  firm  around  the  roots. 
Varieties. — Strawberries  for  early  crops  may  consist  of  Royal 
Sovereign,  Laxton’s  No.  1,  Scarlet  Queen,  Noble,  Vicomtesse  Hericart 
de  Thury,  and  King  of  the  Earlies.  Midseason  varieties  comprise 
President,  Sir  J.  Paxton,  Newton  Seedling,  Leader,  and  Monarch.  The 
latest  varieties  include  Elton  Pine,  Latest  of  All,  Frogmore  Late  Pine, 
Jubilee,  and  Waterloo. 
Treatment  During  Summer. — Frequent  attention  must  be  given  to 
the  plants  during  the  spring  and  summer  although  they  are  not  fruiting. 
In  the  first  place  it  is  very  important  to  maintain  the  surface  about  the 
plants  loose  with  the  Dutch  hoe,  especially  during  the  prevalence  of 
dry  weather.  This  not  only  promotes  growth  but  prevents  rapid 
evaporation  of  moisture  from  the  soil,  and  keeps  down  weeds.  Runners 
must  also  be  cut  away  as  fast  as  they  appear,  and  water  will  be  required 
during  exceptionally  dry  periods.  A  light  mulching  of  littery  manure 
during  the  hottest  weather  is  beneficial,  but  rich  manure  is  not  needed 
the  first  season. 
Established  Strawberries. —  Weeding  and  Gleaning. — The  remains  of 
the  autumn  manuring  should  be  raked  off  and  strong  weeds  forked  out. 
Cut  off  dead  and  withered  foliage,  and  hoe  between  the  rows' to  destroy 
seedling  weeds. 
Spring  Mulching. — A  dressing  of  moderately  fresh  manure  may  be 
spread  between  the  rows  of  fruiting  plants.  As  this  contains  both 
strawy  material  and  solid  manure  the  latter  affords  nutriment  which 
will  wash  into  the  soil  for  the  plants’  benefit,  while  the  strawy  matter, 
becoming  bleached  and  clean  by  exposure,  affords  a  bed  for  the 
ripening  fruit  later  on. 
Pruning  Cob  Nuts  and  Filberts. — The  pruning  of  Nut  bushes  is 
best  carried  out  when  the  catkins  or  staminate  flowers  have  shed  their 
pollen,  the  pistillate  blooms  being  fully  open  when  the  pollen  began  to 
disperse.  The  catkin-bearing  shoots,  when  fertilisation  has  been 
effected,  are  not  required  to  remain  at  full  length,  hence  may  be 
shortened  closely  back.  Wood  that  bears  neither  catkins  nor  pistillate 
flowers  is  of  an  unfruitful  character,  and  may  be  shortened  also,  but 
if  sappy  and  strong  remove  it  entirely.  Retain  twiggy  shoots,  these 
bearing  blossom  buds  at  their  points.  The  last  year’s  bearing  shoots 
must  be  pruned  to  within  half  an  inch  of  their  base.  Thin  out  crowded 
sppr  growths.  Where  catkins  are  scarce  procure  some  from  any  Nut 
