J88 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
March  1,  15)00. 
TRADE  CATALOGUES  RECEIVED. 
Hogg  &  Eobertson,  Dublin. — Book  of  the  Farm. 
H.,_P.  Kelsey,  Highlands  Nursery,  Boston,  Mass. — American  Hardy 
:  FI  Plants. 
Little  &  Ballantyne,  Carlisle. — Farm  Seeds. 
J.  E.  Pearson  &  Sons,  Chilwell,  Notts. — New  Zonal  Pelargoniums. 
Toogood  &  Sons,  Southampton.— Pcirm  Seeds. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be 
directed  to  “The  Editor,”  12,  iVIltre  Court  chambers, 
Fleet  Street,  Xondon,  E.C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one 
will  write  privately  to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking 
information  on  matters  discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so. 
subjects  them  to  unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  depart¬ 
mental  writers  are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they 
may  receive  on  Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post. 
If  information  be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any 
particular  authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made 
to  obtain  It  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accom¬ 
panied  by  the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will 
neither  be  published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  noms  de  plume 
are  given  for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
'Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relatin^i 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only  ;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
violets  Diseased  (.7.  W.'). — The  leaves  are  infested  by  the  Violet 
mould,  Peronospora  Violm,  which  has  been  rather  prevalent  this  season. 
The  fungus  mostly  attacks  plants  in  frames,  and  is  certainly  favoured 
by  a  cold  and  moist  atmosphere.  The  only  thing  now  likely  to  be  of 
any  use  is  to  dust  the  plants  with  air- slaked  lime  after  removing  the 
worst  infested  and  withered  leaves.  This  is  more  effective  than  wood 
ashes,  which,  however,  are  excellent.  Owing  to  the  plants  having  been 
kept  safe  from  frost,  the  atmosphere  would  become  more  or  less 
stagnant,  and  the  plants  be  correspondingly  weakened.  A  free 
circulation  of  air  greatly  tends  to  render  the  plants  more  disease 
resistant,  and  also  has  a  deterrent  effect  on  the  fungus.  Your 
experience  with  the  few  plants  in  a  broken  frame  that  have  been  frozen 
hard  is  very  suggestive  of  the  importance  of  air,  they  being  in  good 
condition  and  the  leaves  perfect. 
Eepotting  CameUias  (IF.  G,  B.). — Pot  them  at  the  beginning  of 
April  into  pots  a  size  larger  ;  do  not  give  a  large  shift.  Drain  the 
pots  to  one-third  their  depth,  and  place  over  the  drainage  the  rougher 
parts  of  the  compost.  Prepare  a  compost  of  peat  two-thirds,  turfy 
loam  one-third,  with  a  free  admixture  of  coarse  sand.  Turn  the  plants 
out  of  the  pots,  carefully  remove  the  drainage,  and  pick  away  the 
old  soil  from  between  the  roots  with  a  pointed  piece  of  wood,  being 
careful  not  to  injure  the  roots.  Pot  rather  firmly,  but  not  very  hard, 
and  with  the  collar  of  the  plant  slightly  elevated  in  the  centre  of  the 
pot.  In  potting  be  sure  no  vacant  space  is  left  between  the  ball  and 
the  sides  of  the  pot.  The  soil  should  be  worked  down  with  a  flat 
piece  of  wood,  and  a  gentle  tapping  of  the  pot  on  the  bench  will  help 
to  fix  the  soil  and  fill  cavities. 
Booting  Bose  Cuttings  (E7  H.  R.). — Probably  the  easiest  and  most 
certain  method  for  amateurs  to  root  Eose  cuttings  is  by  inserting 
them  in  sandy  soil  in  the  open  ground  towards  the  end  of  October. 
Trenches  are  cut  for  them,  much  as  if  preparing  for  Box  edging,  some 
sand  being  placed  in  and  the  cuttings  pressed  down  into  it  till  only  one 
or  two  buds  are  above  the  level  of  the  ground.  The  soil  is  then  returned, 
trodden  firmly  against  them,  and  a  sprinkling  of  sand  spread  on  the 
surface  round  the  cuttings  and  well  watered  to  exclude  air.  The 
.  cuttings  are  made  from  firm  portions  of  the  wood  made  during  the 
summer,  not  soft  growths,  and  may  be  from  6  to  8  inches  in  length. 
There  is  a  possibility  of  a  few  rooting  if  several  are  inserted  now  in  the 
manner  indicated,  but  the  autumn  is  a  much  better  time  for  the  work. 
If  you  insert  any,  remember  that  not  more  than  an  inch  in  length 
of  each  must  be  above  ground,  the  remainder  within  it.  Cuttings  will 
also  root  in  Arrgust,  either  outdoors  or  in  a  frame,  and  young  shoots 
of  Eoses  root  in  warm  propagating  cases  in  spring  in  charge  of  expert 
^propagators.  '  '  .  .. 
Bryophyllum  calycinum  (IF.  Raby). — Bryophyllum  calycinum  is 
remarkable  in  producing  young  plants  from  very  conspicuous  leaf  buds 
on  the  margins  of  the  leaves  when  the  latter  are  laid  down  on  a  damp 
surface  in  a  warm  atmosphere.  It  grows  2  to  3  feet  high,  and  is  an 
evergreen  succulent  shrub,  of  no  value  but  interesting  as  a  curiosity. 
Stove  treatment  suits  it  best,  growing  it  in  good  loam  in  a  temperature 
of  65°. 
Soil  for  a  vine  Border  (E.  R.). — There  is  nothing  better  than  the 
top  4  or  5  inches  of  a  pasture — that  is,  soil  full  of  the  fibrous  roots 
of  grasses.  Unless  the  subsoil  is  naturally  porous,  put  in  a  foot  of 
rubble,  and  have  a  drain  laid  through  it  to  conduct  the  water  away, 
covering  the  stony  rubble  with  turves,  grass  downwards  ;  then  make 
the  border  2|  feet  deep.  A  barrowful  of  old  lime  rubbish,  and  the 
same  of  wood  ashes  to  ten  or  twelve  of  the  turfy  soil,  would  be  a 
good  addition,  but  the  Vines  would  grow  well  in  the  loam  alone  if 
sonnd,  not  very  sandy  or  of  a  strong  clayey  nature.  A  border  3  feet 
wide  is  sufficient  the  first  year,  adding  to  the  width  subsequently. 
Tread  the  soil  rather  firmly,  but  not  hard,  and  it  must  not  be  very 
wet  when  this  is  done.  Mix  no  manure  with  the  turf,  but  spread 
some  on  the  surface  after  the  Vines  are  olanted. 
Carnation  Leaves  Diseased  (A.  T.  N.). — Your  specimens  were  con¬ 
siderably  delayed  owing  to  misdirection.  The  leaves  are  infested 
by  the  fairy-ring  spot  fungus  (Heterosporium  echinulatum).  The 
common  name  was  suggested  by  Mr.  W.  G.  Smith,  from  the  circum¬ 
stance  that  the  growth  of  the  fungus  from  the  centre  of  the  spot  is 
centrifugal  ,  and  the  dark  colour  is  apt  to  be  arranged  in  concentric 
lines  or  rings,  representing  a  miniature  fairy  ring.  The  fungus  was 
first  described  by  the  Eev.  M.  J.  Berkeley  many  years  ago.  The 
spores  are  brown  in  colour,  and  when  produced  in  great  abundance,  as 
in  your  specimen,  together  with  the  threads,  darken  the  spot  upon  the 
leaf,  and  the  spot  then  possesses  different  shades  of  colour,  according 
to  the  number  of  spores  produced.  The  fungus  is,  to  a  great  extent, 
induced  by  a  damp  stagnant  atmosphere,  which  facilitates  its  develop¬ 
ment  from  the  spores.  The  plant  should  be  sprayed  with  a  solution  of 
permanganate  of  potash,  or,  if  you  have  not  a  sprayer,  sponge  the 
leaves  carefully  with  the  solution.  It  may  be  necessary  to  repeat  the 
dressing,  giving  the  plant  plenty  of  air,  but  not  a  very  arid,  yet 
comparatively  dry  condition  of  the  atmosphere. 
Propagating  Indiarubher  Plant  (Amateur). — If  you  can  command 
a  bottom  heat  of  85°  to  90°  you  can  easily  root  the  top  of  your 
Indiarubher  Plant.  Cut  off  the  head  about  6  or  8  inches  long,  remove 
one  or  two  of  the  bottom  leaves,  and  insert  in  a  4-inch  pot  in  a 
compost  of  loam,  sand,  and  leaf  soil.  Steady  the  cutting  with  a  small 
stake.  Plunge  the  pot  in  the  bottom  heat,  surrounding  it  with  cocoa-nut 
fibre  refuse  kept  moist.  The  other  portions  of  the  stem  having  healthy 
green  leaves  may  be  cut  into  what  are  termed  eyes  with  a  leaf  attached, 
each  of  which  will  form  a  fresh  plant.  The  method  of  preparing  these 
is  as  follows  : — Cut  out  that  portion  of  the  stem  containing  the  eye  and 
its  accompanying  leaf.  This  is  done  by  inserting  the  knife  just  above 
the  bud,  passing  it  down  the  centre  of  the  stem  behind  the  eye  or  bud, 
and  out  just  below  it.  Each  of  these  is  secured  to  a  short  stick,  which 
inserted  in  the  pot  keeps  the  bud  steady,  and  affords  support  for  the 
leaf,  which  should  be  tied  or  coiled  round  it.  Three-inch  pots  and  some 
sandy  compost  are  prepared.  The  pots  are  filled  with  this,  and  each 
eye  placed  firmly  in  the  centre.  Plunge  them  to  the  rim  in  cocoa-nut 
fibre  refuse  in  a  propagating  frame  with  a  bottom  heat  of  90°,  where 
they  must  remain  until  the  eyes  start  into  growth.  When  both  eyes  and 
top  cuttings  commence  growing  bottom  heat  is  not  absolutely  essential, 
but  they  must  have  top  heat  of  65°  to  70°  in  order  to  bring  them  on 
properly. 
Names  of  Fruits. — Notice. — We  have  pleasure  in  naming  good 
typical  fruits  (when  the  names  are  discoverable)  for  the  convenience 
of  regular  subscribers,  who  are  the  growers  of  such  fruit,  and  not 
collectors  of  specimens  from  non-subscribers.  This  latter  procedure 
is  wholly  irregular,  and  we  trust  that  none  of  our  readers  will  allow 
themselves  to  be  made  the  mediums  in  infringing  our  rules.  Special 
attention  is  directed  to  the  following  decision,  the  object  of  which  is 
to  discourage  the  growth  rf  inferior  and  promote  the  culture  of 
superior  varieties.  In  cons-ejuence  of  the  large  number  of  worthless 
A.giles  and  Pears  sent  to  this  office  to  be  named,  it  has  been  decided  to 
name  only  specimens  and  varieties  of  approved  merit,  and  to  refect  the 
inferior,  which  are  not  worth  sending  or  growing.  The  names  and 
addresses  of  senders  of  fruits  or  flowers  to  be  named  must  in  all  cases 
be  enclosed  with  the  specimens,  whether  letters  referring  to  the  fruit 
are  sent  by  post  or  not.  The  names  are  not  necessarily  required  for 
publication,  initials  sufficing  for  that.  Only  six  specimens  can  be 
named  at  once,  and  any  beyond  that  number  cannot  be  preserved. 
They  should  be  sent  on  the  first  indication  of  change  towards  ripening. 
Dessert  Pears  cannot  be  named  in  a  hard  green  state.  The  practice  of 
pinning  numbers  to  the  eyes  of  the  fruits  tends  to  destroy  one  of  the 
most  characteristic  features  and  increases  the  difficulty  of  identification. 
When  Plums  are  sent  to  be  named  young  wood  of  the  trees  should 
accompany  tuem.  Leaves  c?  the  trees  are  necessary  with  Peaches  and 
Nectarines,  with  information  as  to  whether  the  flowers  are  large  or  small. 
(R.  IF). — 1,  Cox’s  Orange  Pippin  ;  2,  Blenheim  Pippin  ;  3,  Gooseberry 
Pippin;  4,  Wadhurst  Pippin;  the  Pear  is  Catillac.  {J.  W.  TF.).' — 1, 
Eeinette  de  Canada;  2,  Newton  Wonder;  3,  Wormsley  Pippin;  4, 
Court  Pendu  Plat;  5  and  6,  wregogoisable.  (IF.  P.  F.). — 1,  Lord 
