194 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
March  8,  1900. 
very  limitel,  ami  the  nomenclature  bad,  but  plenty  of  energy  was 
put  into  the  matter,  and  now  the  collection  is  as  representative  a  one 
as  it  is  possible  to  get,  while  the  naming  is  as  near  perfection  as  it  can 
be  without  having  flowering  specimens. 
Altogether  about  forty-five  species  and  varieties  are  grown  in  the 
open  air  at  Kew,  Of  these  about  five  are  scarcely  hardy  enough  to  be 
recommended  for  general  cultivation,  though  they  are  quite  at  home 
in  the  genial  climate  of  the  south-western  counties.  The  remainder 
are  perfectly  hardy,  having  stood  the  severe  test  of  1895  without 
injury.  The  number  of  species  and  varieties  alluded  to  are  confined 
to  three  genera,  as  follows : — Arundinaria,  seventeen  species  and  three 
varieties  ;  Bambusa,  eight  species  ;  Phyllostachys,  ten  species  and  one 
variety.  In  addition  to  these  there  are  a  few  others  that  are  npt  yet 
developed  sufficiently  to  allow  of  their  correct  names  being  determined, 
or  have  not  been  tested  as  to  hardiness. 
Japan  is  the  home  of  the  majority,  twenty-nine  species  coming 
from  that  country.  China  gives  us  five,  the  temperate  Himalayas 
four,  and  Norih  America  one,  while  the  countries  of  several  species  are 
doubtful.  The  Himalayan  species  are  the  tenderest,  and  should  only 
be  planted  in  places  where  very  severe  frost  is  unknown;  about 
London  they  are  cut  to  the  ground  line  by  sharp  frost,  but  grow  again 
during  the  following  summer. 
To  select  a  few  and  say  they  are  the  best  would  be  misleading, 
for  all  have  their  special  charms,  which  show  to  advantage  when 
contrasted  with  one  another.  The  straight  15  feet  stems  of  Arun¬ 
dinaria  Simoni,  with  thick  tufts  of  side  branches;  the  graceful  arching 
shoots  of  A.  nitida,  with  small,  elegant,  pale  green  leaves  ;  the  large 
handsome  foliage  of  Bambusa  palmata  and  tesselata;  the  elegant 
leafy  shoots  of  the  various  Phyllostachys ;  the  golden  stems  of 
P.  Castillonis,  with  a  bright  green  channel  between  the  nodes ;  the 
hpich  green  carpet  formed  by  the  dwarf  growing  Arundinaria  pumila 
and  Bambusa  pygmaea,  or  the  variegated  A.  Fortune!,  have  each  their 
own  form  of  beauty,  which  to  be  fully  appreciated  must  be  seen. 
At  Kew  a  garden  is  formed  of  Bamboos  and  kindred  plants,  and 
this  appears  to  be  the  style  of  planting  adopted  by  most  people  when 
making  a  collection.  The  method  has  much  to  recommend  it,  for,  in 
addition  to  the  beauty  of  each  species  being  enhanced  by  the  contrast 
with  its  neighbour,  it  is  much  easier  to  give  them  the  few  special 
attentions  they  require  than  when  they  are  scattered  about. 
When  selecting  a  site  for  the  formation  of  a  Bamboo  garden  .special 
attention  should  be  given  to  shelter,  for,  although  perfectly  hardy,  the 
leaves  are  quickly  turned  brown  if  exposed  to  a  cuttmg  north  or  east 
wind ;  a  cold,  cutting  wind  without  frost  will  do  more  damage  than 
25°  of  frost  without  wind.  Provided  the  soil  is  good  its  consistency 
makes  little  difference,  stiff  clayey  loam  and  light  black  soil  answering 
equally  well.  If  the  soil  is  naturally  poor  it  should  be  enriched  by  a 
good  dressing  of  leaves  and  cow  manure  when  being  trenched.  It  is  a 
very  necessary  item  that  water  should  be  within  easy  distance,  for  in 
a  dry  summer  abundance  of  water  will  have  to  be  given  if  the  plants 
are  to  be  kept  in  good  health. 
At  Orwell  Park,  Ipswich,  Bamboos  are  very  effectively  planted  in 
grass  on  the  sloping  banks  of  a  stream.  The  soil  is  rich  and  spongy, 
and  the  plants  naturalise  very  quickly,  suckers  running  about  and 
springing  up  in  all  directions.  The  value  of  the  Bamboo  for  planting 
in  close  proximity  with  water  is  well  shown  at  Gunnersbury  House, 
where  a  good  collection  has  been  formed  along  one  side  of  the  lake. 
In  such  places  as  the  two  mentioned  it  is  a  very  easy  matter  to  give 
plenty  of  water  with  little  expense.  Although  collections  grown 
together  are  to  be  recommended,  isolated  specimens  of  such  kinds  as 
P.  viridi-glaucescens,  P.  mitis,  Arundinaria  japonica,  A.  Simoni 
come  in  admirably  if  given  suitable  places.  It  is  a  mistake  to  have 
Bamboos  in  too  conspicuous  a  position,  for  they  take  on  a  decidedly 
rusty  appearance  for  two  months,  at  a  time  when  other  plants  are 
at  their  best — i.e.,  from  the  middle  of  March  until  the  middle  of  May; 
this  disadvantage  can,  however,  largely  be  overcome  by  judicious 
planting. 
By  far  the  best  time  to  plant  is  May,  when  growth  is  commencing. 
If  plants  are  received  in  winter,  it  is  advisable  to  pot  them  and  stand 
in  a  greenhouse  until  May.  If  they  are  imported  from  Japan  they 
ought  to  be  potted  and  kept  indoors  until  growth  is  active.  When 
established  out  of  doors  it  is  a  good  plan  to  top  dress  with  leaves  and 
cow  manure  early  in  summer,  and  thin  out  a  number  of  the  oldest 
branches  annually.  Division  is  the  best  means  of  propagation  ;  each 
little  bit  with  roots  will  quickly  form  a  good  plant  if  planted  in  soil 
containing  plenty  of  decayed  leaves. 
Intending  planters  will  do  well  to  pay  a  visit  to  Kew  before 
deciding  on  a  selection,  for  by  seeing  them  growing  a  much  better 
idea  of  their  respective  virtues  can  be  obtained  than  by  long  written 
descriptions.  In  the  Kew  “Hand  List  of  Hardy  Trees  and  Shrubs” 
■he  Japanese  names,  which  are  found  in  Japanese  catalogues,  are 
gi.en  as  synonyms  of  the  correct  scientific  names,  so  making  straight 
what  was  at  one  time  a  decidedly  crooked  path. — W.  D. 
L^ilia  Edissa 
At  the  Drill  Hall  on  the  27th  ult.,  there  was  a  magnificent 
display  of  Orchids,  and  the  contributors  included  both  amateur  and 
professional  specialists.  An  exceptionally  large  number  was  placed 
before  the  Orchid  Committee  with  a  view  to  special  awards,  but  this 
body  was  not  easily  pleased,  and  only  a  very  few  were  thus  honoured. 
Amongst  them  was  Lmlia  Edissa,  which  was  exhibited  by  Messrs, 
Jas.  Veitch  &  Sons,  Ltd.,  Loyal  Exotic  Nursery,  Chelsea ;  to  this  a 
first-class  certificate  was  recommended.  L.  E  lissa  (fig.  51)  is  said  to 
be  the  result  of  a  cross  between  L.  anceps  and  L.  purpurata,  the  former 
being  the  seed-bearing  parent.  In  shape  the  newcomer  resembles  the 
first  named.  The  sepals  and  petals  are  soft  lilac  purple,  while  the 
handsome  lip  is  rich  crimson  with  a  purple  suffusion  and  a  paler 
margin. 
Repotting  Orchids. 
Careful  Orchid  growers  do  not  make  a  special  time  for  repotting, 
but  all  through  the  year  give  new  compost  to  various  plants  as  they 
need  it.  But  February  and  two  succeeding  months  are  the  busiest 
of  the  year  in  this  respect.  Many  plants  that  are  not  usually  classi¬ 
fied  are  given  a  look  round  now,  and  there  are  several  important 
sections  also  needing  attention.  The  Mexican  Laelias,  for  instance, 
and  especially  L.  anceps  and  L.  autumnalis,  will  be  starting,  and  in 
order  to  give  them  the  full  benefit  of  the  new  material  the  plant  should 
be  repotted  in  time  to  catch  the  first  flush  of  young  roots. 
These,  as  a  general  rule,  do  not  need  a  large  amount  of  compost, 
and  often  a  few  bits  of  fresh  peat  and  moss  may  be  introduced  about 
the  young  leads  without  really  disturbing  the  older  roots  much,  an 
advantage  of  course.  But  it  should  never  be  done  when  repotting  is 
necessary,  that  is,  when  it  is  evident  that  the  old  material  is  in  a  bad 
state.  Spreading  laterally  as  these  plants  do,  the  extra  size  of  the 
receptacle  wull  need  to  be  in  width  rather  than  depth. 
Most  of  the  Cypripediums  again,  as  they  they  go  out  of  flower,  will 
need  attention,  but  here  a  different  plan  is  necessary.  The  roots,  though 
large,  are  not  so  easily  injured ;  moreover,  they  take  a  new  hold  quicker 
than  the  true  epiphytal  roots  of  the  Laelias,  so  in  giving  new  material 
these  should  be  well  spread  out  and  the  compost  worked  between 
them.  Only  in  the  case  of  small  plants  and  certain  weakly  growers 
is  it  necessary  to  keep  the  crown  above  the  rim  of  the  pot,  the  majority 
being  better  suited  when  kept  about  an  inch  below,  as  in  ordinary 
potting. 
Thunias,  Calanthes,  and  the  later  flowering  Pleiones  also  need 
attention,  and  in  each  case  the  procedure  is  very  similar,  all  the  plants 
delighting  in  a  fair  proportion  or  loam  in  the  compost;  and  all  must 
be  done  before  young  roots  begin  to  push  from  the  new  leads.  Large 
root-bound  plants  of  Cymbidium  Lowianum,  C.  giganteum,  and  a  few 
others  of  this  strong  growing  section,  are  rather  difficult  to  deal  with. 
Obviously  it  is  impossible  to  separate  the  thick  mass  of  roots,  as  tightly 
twisted  as  those  of  a  p'lt-bound  Palm,  while  in  order  to  give  a 
sufficiency  of  new  compost  a  pot  at  least  3  inches  larger  has  to 
be  used. 
This,  when  already  the  pots  are  large,  soon  makes  the  planta 
unwieldy,  and  as  there  comes  a  time  when  further  increase  of  size  i» 
undesirable,  it  becomes  a  question  either  of  feeding  liberally  and 
watering  very  freely  or  breaking  up  the  large  specimens  into  several. 
There  is  a  decided  advantage  in  favour  of  the  latter  course,  as  the  roota 
once  liberated,  the  dead  roots  in  the  centre,  and  the  soured  or  worn-out 
soil,  can  be  removed. 
Not  many  Cattleyas  have  as  yet  been  repotted,  but  the  time  is  not 
far  distant  when  a  number  must  be  taken  in  hand.  In  every  case 
remove  as  much  as  possible  of  the  old  material,  replace  it  with  new, 
and  if  practicable  bring  the  lead  from  the  rim  towards  the  centre  when 
replacing  in  the  new  pots.  Sometimes  the  removal  of  a  few  worthless, 
woin-out  pseudo-bulbs  will  make  room  for  this  without  greatly 
increasing  the  size  of  the  pot. 
Among  Dendrobiums,  too,  the  grower  will  be  increasingly  busy, 
and  here  again  it  is  not  advisable  to  greatly  increase  the  rooting  space. 
With  the  deciduous  and  long-stemmed  species  generally  there  is  little 
increase  in  size  yearly,  and  tierefore  if  the  compost  is  kept  sweet  and 
open  the  plants  may  remain  in  the  same  pot  or  basket  for  years.  The 
time  TO  repot  is  when  the  young  growth  is  an  inch  or  so  long,  and 
before  it  begins  to  root  independently.  These  are  a  few  of  the 
principal  Orchids  now  needing  attention,  but  of  course  there  are  many 
others. — H.  IL  R. 
