202 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
March  8,  1900. 
passing  among  them  for  this  purpose.  The  single  stem  method  of 
training  is  the  simplest  and  easiest,  and  produces  good  crops. 
Where  planting  out  is  not  practicable  pot  culture  must  be  adopted, 
good  results  lollowing  this  method;  11  or  12-inch  pots  provide  the 
necessary  root  room,  giving  efficient  drainage.  The  compost  ought 
to  be  substantial  and  good,  but  not  over-rich.  Three  parts  of  turly 
loam  to  one  of  decayed  manure,  with  wood  ashes  and  sand,  will  form  a 
suitable  mixture.  Previous  to  potting  or  planting  out  finally  see  that 
the  soil  in  the  pots  is  thoroughly  moist,  not  wet.  Turn  out  the  plants, 
remove  the  crocks  at  the  base,  then  fix  the  plants  on  a  layer  of  soil 
about  an  inch  thick.  Surround  the  ball  with  more  soil,  making  the 
whole  firm,  but  add  no  more  than  will  cover  the  whole.  This  will  be 
sufficient  until  the  first  fruit  has  set  and  active  roots  begin  to  work 
through ;  then  add  some  more,  the  fresh  character  of  which  will 
encourage  the  production  of  new  fibres. 
After  fruit  has  set  freely  these  frequent  top-dressings  will  be  of 
great  assistance  in  supporting  the  crop.  Further  feeding  should  be 
carried  out  by  the  aid  of  liquid  manure  made  from  horse,  cow  and 
sheep  manure,  using  a  peck  of  manure  to  25  gallons  of  water.  Tie 
the  manure  in  a  bag,  sinking  it  in  the  water  in  a  tub.  Give  an 
application  once  or  twice  a  week.  Soot  is  an  excellent  fertiliser  for 
Tomatoes.  Tie  a  peck  of  fresh  soot  in  a  bag,  which  place  in  water  in 
a  tub  holding  25  gallons.  In  a  few  days  clarify  the  mixture  by 
adding  a  spadeful  of  iime.  This  makes  the  liquid  as  clear  as  wine. 
Occasionally  give  Peruvian  guano  1  oz.  to  a  gallon  of  water,  or 
nitrate  of  soda  j  oz.  to  a  gallon  of  water.  The  nitrate  must  only  be 
used  when  a  heavy  crop  is  being  carried  by  the  plants,  otherwise 
its  effect  would  be  injurious. 
One  important  detail  in  the  culture  of  Tomatoes  ought  not  to  be 
overlooked,  and  that  is  the  rubbing  out  of  side  shoots  from  the  axils 
of  the  leaves  on  the  main  stems.  Also  afford  constant  ventilation,  and 
in  dull  weather  use  gentle  fire  heat.  In  sunny  weather  with  a  little 
breeze  the  flowers  will  disperse  their  own  pollen,  but  it  is  usually 
advantageous  to  shake  the  trellis  at  midday  so  as  to  scatter  it  and 
insure  some  grains  falling  on  the  stigmas. 
Ilackwood  Park  Prolific,  Duke  of  York,  Perfection,  Chemin  Eouae, 
Frogmore  Selected,  Blenheim  Orange,  Golden  Perfection  and  Golden 
Nugget  are  amonz  the  best  varieties  of  Tomatoes.  Sutton's  Maincrop 
is  good  for  the  open  air. — E.  D.  S. 
HARDY  BORDER  FLOWERS. 
Arabises. 
The  most  useful  of  the  Arabises  for  border  cultivation  are  A.  albida, 
A.  alpina,  and  the  variegated  variety  of  A.  Incida.  Of  these  the  best 
for  floral  effect  is  either  A.  albida  or  A.  alpina.  There  is  little  to 
choose  between  the  two,  but  the  former  has  the  larger  flowers.  Both  are 
pure  white,  and  in  masses  give  a  fine  effect  in  spring,  when  their 
sheets  of  snowy  flowers  are  at  their  best.  They  delight  in  light  soil, 
and  in  such  bloom  more  freely  and  the  plants  reach  a  larger  size.  The 
new  double  variety  of  A.  alpina  I  have  not  yet  flowered,  but  it  is 
highly  spoken  of  by  some.  It  ought  to  last  longer  in  flower  than  the 
single  forms.  Arabis  lucida  is  often  used  for  edgings  or  lines.  Its 
variegation  is  t  ft'ective,  and  at  some  seasons  is  much  admired.  The 
flowers  themselves  are  not  equal  to  those  of  A.  albida.  It  may  be 
mentioned  that  there  is  also  a  variegated  form  of  A.  albida.  Arabis 
lucida  likes  a  rather  heavy  soil  and  a  cool  climate.  Several  other 
Arabises  are  more  suitable  for  the  rock  garden,  and  are  thus  omitted. 
Arenarias. 
There  are  not  many  of  the  Sand  Cresses  which  are  of  much  value 
for  the  border,  their  uses  being  more  apparent  in  the  alpine  garden. 
Arenaria  graminifolia  is  occasionally  used,  but  it  is  not  very  effective 
in  the  border.  It  has  white  flowers  on  simple  erect  stems,  and  grows 
from  6  to  9  inches  high.  The  best  of  the  genus  for  our  purpose  is 
A.  grandiflora,  a  really  beautiful  plant  for  the  front  of  the  border.  It 
is  dwarf  and  compact,  only  growing  about  6  inches  high,  and  has  pretty 
white  flowers  which  are  large  for  the  size  of  the  plant.  It  will  grow  in 
almost  any  soil,  and  is  increased  by  seeds  or  division. 
ARis.a;MAs. 
These  Aroids  are  only  to  be  recommended  to  those  who  can  appre¬ 
ciate  plants  of  uncommon  appearance,  that  are  more  valued  for  their 
singularity  than  for  bright  colouring.  They  are  thus  not  to  be 
suggested  as  flowers  for  what  is  fitly  called  the  “  dressed  border,”  as 
their  charms  consist  in  other  qualities  than  those  which  appeal  to  the 
gardener  of  ordinary  tastes.  One  of  the  best  of  the  hardy  species  is 
A.  triphylla,  which  grows  about  a  foot  high,  and  has  green  and  purple 
brown  spathes  and  brown  spotted  spadices.  The  leaves  are  trifoliate. 
Another  hardy  species  is  A.  ringens,  whose  spathes  are  green,  white, 
and  purple,  and  whose  spadix  is  of  a  yellowish  green.  This  species  is 
a  native  of  Japan,  the  former  one  coming  from  North  America.  The 
Arissemas  like  a  good  soil,  and  are  increased  by  division. 
Armerias. 
The  Armerias,  or  Thrifts,  form  a  pretty  group  of  plants,  some  being 
of  considerable  beauty.  The  dwarfer  species  are  sometimes  used  for 
edgings,  but  may  also  be  grown  in  clumps  further  back.  The  taller 
species  are  pleasing  when  in  bloom  and  a  few  are  useful  for  cutting. 
One  of  the  most  pleasing  is  the  tall  A.  cephalotes,  the  Round-headed 
Thrift  or  Sea  Pink.  It  grows  from  about  12  to  20  iriches  high,  and  is 
a  handsome  and  desirable  plant.  Unfortunately  it  is  not  a  long-liver, 
and  ought  to  be  raised  from  seed  every  year  to  avoid  the  risk  of  losing 
it.  It  has  several  synonyms,  but  is  generally  known  by  the  name  here 
used.  The  next  in  value,  so  far  as  regards  beauty,  though  it  is  superior 
as  regards  its  perennial  habit,  is  A.  plantaginea.  The  flowers  of 
A.  cephalotes  vary  from  white  to  bright  rose  and  almost  crimson,  but 
those  of  A.  plantaginea  have  neither  the  white  nor  the  crimson  shades. 
The  common  Sea  Pink  of  our  coasts  is  occasionally  grown,  together 
with  its  white  variety.  Armeria  maritima  is  hardly  bright  enough  for 
many  purposes,  and  those  who  want  a  Thrift  of  the  same  size  but 
deeper  colour  should  procure  the  variety  named  A.  m.  Lauoheana, 
with  deep  pink  flowers.  The  Thrifts  are  not  difficult  to  grow  in  ordinary 
soil,  and  may  best  be  increased  by  seeds  or  division.  Cuttings  may  be 
rooted  in  a  frame  or  under  a  hand-light. — S.  A. 
GROWING  GLOXINIAS. 
We  admire  some  plants  for  their  handsome  foliage,  others  for  the 
beauty  and  size  of  their  flowers,  and  some  for  their  graceful  habit 
of  growth ;  but  when  we  find  these  three  good  properties  combined 
in  a  great  measure  in  the  Gloxinia,  we  are  not  surprised  that  it  is 
generally  appreciated  and  cultivated.  Its  fine,  rich,  trumpet-like 
flowers,  either  of  distinct  colours,  white,  crimson,  blue,  purple,  or  pink, 
striped,  mottled,  edged,  or  blotched  with  carmine,  blue,  bright  rose, 
and  blush — either  rising  boldly  above  or  resting  on  its  fine,  rich, 
velvety,  large,  and  beautifully- veined  foliage — give  to  the  whole  plant 
when  properly  managed  a  fine,  massive,  and  graceful  appearance,  like 
a  bouquet  handsomely  and  artistically  arranged. 
Although  Gloxinias  generally  receive  the  same  treatment  as  other 
tropical  plants,  nevertheless,  amateurs  and  others  who  have  a  warm 
greenhouse  and  a  frame  heated  by  manure  can  grow  them  to  as  great 
perfection  as  where  they  are  allowed  a  higher  temperature.  Sow  the 
seeds  in  pots  of  light  sandy  peat  at  once  ;  fill  the  pots  half  full  of 
crocks,  over  which  place  a  layer  of  moss  and  peat,  after  which  sift  a 
little  peat  and  sand  very  fine,  distributing  the  seed  evenly  thereon. 
It  requires  no  covering  with  soil.  Water  with  a  very  fine  rose,  cover 
with  a  bell-glass,  and  plunge  the  pots  in  bottom  heat.  In  ten  days  or 
a  fortnight  the  plants  will  appear.  Give  air  by  degrees.  When  they 
have  formed  three  or  four  leaves  transplant  them  into  3-inch  pots,  and 
if  properly  supplied  with  heat  and  moisture  the  plants  will  bloom  in 
the  autumn  of  the  same  year.  They  should  not  be  dried-off  until  the 
second  year,  as  the  small  fibres  are  not  sufficiently  strong  to  cause 
them  to  start  vigorously  in  spring.  This  remark  is  also  applicable  to 
young  plants  raised  from  cuttings. 
The  stock  can  be  readily  increased,  as  almost  every  part  of  the 
leaves  will  form  plants  if  a  portion  of  the  midrib  be  retained  in  each 
cutting.  Divide  the  leaves  transversely,  place  them  in  pots  of  fine 
sand,  cover  with  a  bell-glass,  and  plunge  in  a  strong  heat ;  in  a  short 
time  callosities  will  form  at  the  base  of  the  cuttings.  Repot  in  good 
sandy  peat,  replunging  and  covering  with  a  hand-glass;  giving  air 
occasionally.  If  the  plants  to  be  propagated  are  very  choice,  remove 
them  into  a  large  pot,  making  incisions  on  the  midrib  of  the  lower 
leaves,  placing  a  few  pebbles  on  the  leaves  to  keep  them  to  the  soil ; 
this  is  the  safest  method.  They  will  soon  root  if  a  good  heat  is  main¬ 
tained,  and  may  be  repotted  immediately. 
February  or  the  beginning  of  March  is  the  best  time  for  starting  the 
old  plants  after  their  winter  rest.  In  potting,  the  old  soil  should  be 
carefully  removed  from  the  roots.  In  planting,  press  the  roots  gently 
on  the  surface  of  the  soil,  and  give  them  no  water  for  some  time.  The 
soil  should  consist  of  half  peat,  one-fourth  loam,  and  one-fourth  leaf 
mould  mixed  well  together,  and  used  in  a  moderately  rough  state.  A 
thorough  drainage  of  crocks  is  indispensably  necessary.  As  they 
progress  in  growth  and  fill  their  pots  with  roots  they  are  to  be  liberally 
shifted,  not  exactly  on  the  one-shifb  system,  but  approximating  to  it— 
that  is,  from  a  5-inch  to  an  8-inch,  where  they  will  attain  a  size, 
luxuriance  of  growth,  and  profusion  of  flowers  suitable  for  exhibition 
or  for  adorning  the  conservatory.  The  soil  should  be  gradually 
enriched  with  some  well- decayed  manure  until  they  receive  their  last 
shift,  when  more  loam  with  less  peat  and  a  liberal  addition  of  decayed 
manure  may  be  given,  the  soil  being  used  in  a  rough  state. 
After  they  are  all  potted  remove  them  to  a  frame  where  the 
temperature  is  about  60°,  and  when  they  have  commenced  growing 
give  them  a  little  water,  increasing  the  quantity  as  they  advance  in 
growth.  A  little  air  must  be  given  in  fine  weather.  During  their 
season  of  blooming  a  watering  with  weak  liquid  manure  (sheeps’, 
pigeons’,  fowls’  manure  or  guano)  may  be  given  occasionally,  which  will 
increase  the  luxuriance  of  the  foliage  and  the  brilliancy  of  the  flowers. 
When  flowering  is  finished  water  must  be  gradually  discontinued,  and  at 
last  entirely  dispensed  with,  when  they  should  be  removed  to  any  out- 
of-the-way  shelf  in  a  warm  greenhouse  for  two  or  three  months  until 
F eb  ruary,  when  the  season  for  fresh  growth  again  arrives. — J.  H. 
