Supplement  to 
218 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
March  15,  1900. 
Peiitstemons  from  Seed. 
Ix  a  note  on  Peutstemons  at  page  184,  it  is  stated  that  “  March  is 
rather  late  to  sow  seed  to  obtain  plants  to  flower  the  same  season.” 
That  is,  however  contrary  to  my  experience,  for  I  used  to  raise  several 
plants  yearly  from  seeds  sown  in  a  cold  house  early  in  March,  getting 
in  that  way  strong  plants  several  inches  in  height,  and  planting  out 
at  the  end  of  May.  From  these  plants,  which  were  simply  dibbled 
out  and  if  dry  watered  once  or  twice,  I  invariably  obtained  strong  ones 
that  bloomed  freely  through  the  autumn  right  up  to  November.  I 
mention  this  because  it  is  well  that  those  who  like  Pentstemons,  and 
either  lose  the  old  plants  in  the  winter  or  do  not  care  to  keep  them, 
may  always  have  a  fine  show  of  bloom  from  plants  raised  as  described  in 
March  for  fully  three  months  in  the  autumn.  If  some  seeds  be  sown 
in  a  box  or  frame  at  the  end  of  August  strong  young  plants  are  ready 
to  put  out  at  the  end  of  March,  and  these  will  bloom  through  June  and 
July.  We  have  now  some  fine  strains  of  Pentstemons. — Grower. 
Pii|chiiig  Fruit  Trees. 
A  “  Learner,”  who  appears  to  know  a  good  deal  more  about  the 
Woturn  experiments,  as  well  as  claiming  acquaintance  with  the 
methods  of  many  and  extensive  fruit  growers,  than  “  learners  ”  know 
generally,  confesses,  on  page  179,  to  being  “  staggered  ”  by  what  I 
ventured  to  advance  on  the  rationale  of  shoot-pinching  on  page  154. 
It  is  something  to  “  stagger  ”  such  a  widely  experienced  “  Learner,”  and 
it  could  not  have  been  done  in  the  absence  of  impairment  of  his  mental 
digestion.  He  tells  us  he  has  read  “carefully”  the  article  that  was 
too  much  for  him.  Perhaps  he  read  it  too  quickly  ;  be  that  as  it  may, 
he  has  evidentlv  not  assimilated  it.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  he  has  missed 
the  point  and  so  based  an  argument,  or  rather  evolved  a  deduction,  from 
a  false  hypothesis  entirely  of  his  own  invention.  This  may  be  put  to 
his  credit,  as  it  is  not  easy  to  be  the  real  originator  of  anything  in 
these  days,  in  which  so  many  try  and  fail.  Says  this  Learner,  “  if  it 
would  pay  to  pinch  a  quarter  of  an  acre  it  would  pay  to  pinch  a 
thousand  acres”  (of  fruit  trees).  His  proposition  would  have  been  as 
good  had  he  started  with  a  quarter  of  a  tree  as  with  that  portion  of  an 
acre,  for  when  he  acquires  the  art  of  pinching,  or  finger-and-thumb 
pruning  as  it  has  been  described,  in  its  integrity,  he  will  be  able  to  have 
a  quarter  of  a  Peach  tree  bearing  its  crop  of  fruit  from  short  stubby 
spurs  and  the  other  three-quarters  from  natural  summer  shoots  in  the 
usual  way.  As  to  which  method  would  “  pay  ”  the  better  in  view  of 
the  time  involved  in  the  operations,  is  another  matter  entirely. 
So  it  was  as  clearly  stated  in  ray  article  bearing  on  the  subject  of 
pinching  trees  for  a  specific  purpose  and  positions.  A  “Learner”  is 
wholly  wrong  in  his  implication  that  I  “  advocated  ”  systematic 
pinching  as  being  more  profitable  than  simpler  methods  of  procedure. 
I  did  nothing  of  the  kind.  I  suggested  the  contrary,  as  my  critic  really 
admits.  Well  may  he  be  “  staggered,”  such  mental  confusion  as  I 
happen  to  have  extracted  would  be  enough  to  stagger  any  man.  I  did 
not  “  advocate  ”  a  general  principle  to  be  followed  in  economic  fruit 
production  at  all,  but  explained  a  method,  by  request,  as  applicable  to 
the  production  of  fruitful  trees  limited  to  small  prescribed  spaces  in 
gardens. 
IVhen  a  “  Learner  ”  has  learned  much  more  in  the  school  of 
experience  he  will  find  that  trees  are  like  men,  varied  in  their  habits 
and  proclivities,  and  that  all  are  not  amenable  under  all  circumstances 
and  with  differing  objects  in  view  to  precisely  the  same  treatment  or 
training.  Some  are  pliable  and  easily  governed,  others  are  more  or 
less  angular  and  known  in  nurseries  as  “awkward.”  Of  course  I  mean 
trees,  though  the  remark  may,  perhans,  apply  to  men,  and  some  of 
these — so  do  men  vary — might  even  be  disposed  to  assume  that  the 
thoughts  of  my  peculiar  critic  were  not  exclusively  devoted  to  fruit 
trees,  but  also  in  a  gentle  way  to  “pinching.” — A  Lincolnshire 
Gardener. 
■ - «.♦♦» - 
Cyclanien  Culture. 
Having  noticed  several  aiucies  in  the  pages  of  the  Journal  of 
Horticulture  dealing  with  the  culture  of  Cyclamens,  1  thought  I  would 
give  luy  method  of  cultivation,  as  it  differs  somewhat  from  any  I  have 
seen  described. 
I  usually  sow  the  principal  stock  of  seeds  during  the  first  week  of 
October,  again  for  a  succession  in  December  or  January.  The  seeds 
are  sown  in  shallow  boxes  2^  inches  or  3  inches  deep.  Empty  champagne 
cases  do  admirably  if  cut  to  make  two  boxes,  one  2f  inches  deep,  and  the 
other  41  inches;  the  latter  I  find  useful  to  grow  them  in  later  on.  The 
size  I  use  are  about  20  inches  long  by  13j  inches  wide,  which  accom¬ 
modate  about  100  seeds  at  1^  inch  to  Ij  inch  ajiart  all  ways.  The 
boxes  must  be  thoroughly  drained  and  have  a  few  rough  leaves  laid 
over  the  drainage.  I  fill  the  boxes  nearly  to  the  edges  with  a  mixture 
of  equal  proportions  of  rough  leaf  soil,  not  sifted,  and  rough  turfy  loam 
with  sufficient  sand  to  insure  porosity,  and  the  soil  is  pressed  firmly 
and  evenly;  on^^the  top  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  of  the  same 
mixture  parsed  through  a  fine  sieve  is  scattered  in  which  the  seeds  are 
distributed  in  small  holes  made  with  the  finger  at  the  requisite  dis¬ 
tances  apart  ;  the  seeds  are  then  covered  with  a  layer  of  the  fine  soil. 
A  thorough  watering  through  a  fine-rosed  wat  r  pot  must  then'be 
afforded,  and  the  boxes  can  be  placed  in  any  cold  but  frost-proof  pit 
or  frame,  aud  m  ly  be  stacked  on  each  other  if  several  are  sown  at  the 
same  time,  with  a  slate  or  pane  of  glass  on  the  top  one.  This  will  keep 
them  uniformly  moist.  If  the  see<ls  are  sown  the  first  week  in  October 
(or  earlier)  the  boxes  should  remain  in  the  cold  pit  fora  fortnight,  being 
examined  occasionally  to  see  that  they  do  not  become  dry.  They 
should  then  be  removed  to  a  structure  where  a  temperature  of  55°  to 
60°  can  be  maintained,  and  the  majqrity  of  the  seeds  will  liave  germi¬ 
nated  in  from  a  month  to  six  weeks  from  the  time  of  sowing;  a  sharp 
look-out  must  be  kept  for  woodlice,  which  devour  the  seedlings  unless 
they  are  trapped.  The  boxes  should  then  be  raised  as  near  the  glass 
as  possible,  and  have  sufficient  water  to  keep  the  soil  pleasantly  moist 
and  be  lightly  syringed  on  fine  bright  days  ;  air  must  be  given  on  all 
favourable  occasions  to  keep  them  as  sturdy  as  possible.  Soft  water 
should  always  be  used  for  syringing,  as  wat'  r  containing  lime  spoils- 
the  foliage. 
The  little  plants  should  remain  in  the  boxes  in  which  the  seeds 
were  sown  until  about  the  middie  of  February.  Then  commence  by 
preparing  a  suitable  number  of  boxes  44  inches  deep  by  thoroughly 
draining  them  and  filling  with  a  compost  of  equal  parts  of  rough  leaf 
soil  and  good  fresh  tuify  loam  ;  to  make  sure  of  there  being  no  grubs 
or  vdreworms  present  I  roast  the  soil  on  large  tins.  I  then  add  some 
old  mortar  rubble  and  sand,  thoroughly  mixing  and  slightly  moistening 
if  necessary.  The  boxes  are  placed  in  the  same  temperature  as  the  plants 
to  become  warm,  and  on  the  following  day  the  plants  (which  by  this 
time  have  from  three  to  five  leaves)  are  carefully  lifted  with  a  pointed 
stick  and  transplanted  twenty -four  in  a  box  of  the  size  previously 
mentioned  ;  with  one  gooQ  watering  to  settle  the  soil,  frequent  applica¬ 
tions  will  not  afterwards  be  required.  The  syringe  must  be  used  daily, 
and  the  boxes  still  be  kept  in  the  heated  pit. 
In  about  eight  or  ten  [weeks  from  the  time  they  wore  transplanted 
they  wdt  have  almost  covered  the  soil  with  leaves,  and  preparations 
should  be  made  for  placing  them  in  the  fioweiing  pots.  A  similar 
compost  as  before  may  be  used,  and  sufficient  new  or  clean  5-inch  and 
6-inch  pots  should  be  dMned,  each  having  a  handful  of  old  mortar 
over  the  crocks.  See  thatlthe  mould  in  the  boxes  is  moist  throughout, 
as  the  plants  will  then  liftjwith  balls  of  soil  attached  to  the  roots  ;  the 
larger  may  go  into  6-inch  Vnd  the  remainder  5-mch  pots.  The  soil 
should  bo  pressed  moderately  firmly  in  the  pots,  working  it  round  the 
sides  with  a  thin  rammer  and  leaving  the  top  of  the  corm  just  above 
the  surface  of  the  soil.  Return  the  plants  to  the  same  pit  as  before, 
where  they  should  remaifi  until  established  in  the  pots,  and  be 
watered  and  syringed  as  before.  In  two  or  three  weeks  they  ought  to 
be  removed  to  an  unheated  pit  or  frame,  and  kept  rather  close  for  a 
time  to  inure  them  to  cool  frame  treatment.  This  is  usually  done 
early  in  J une,  and  for  a  week  or  two  the  pots  may  stand  closely 
together,  but  by  midstinimer  they  should  be  plunged  in  ashes  to 
the  rim  a  good  distance  apart,  and  within  6  inches  of  the  glass. 
The  plants  will  requira  watering  carefully  at  this  stage  until,  in  fact, 
the  pots  become  filled  w/th  roots,  when  abundant  supplies  are  necessary, 
also  syringing  each  morning,  and  again  about  three  o’clock  on  bright 
warm  days.  Shading  rcnst  ah  o  be  carefully  attended  to,  but  should  not 
be  overdone,  as  they  vdl  be  found  to  stand  more  sun  than  is  usually 
allowed  them.  I  geterally  put  on  the  tiffany,  or  similar  material, 
about  10.30  or  11  AM,  and  remove  it  again  about  3  p.m.,  or  before 
if  dull ;  much  depeniS  on  the  weather,  as  on  some  days  no  shade 
whatever  is  required.  The  plants  must  have  ample  ventilation  by- 
night  as  well  as  by  day.  I  use  small  blocks  about  2  inches  thick 
for  the  front  of  frames,  one  under  each  side  of  the  lights,  and  a 
single  6  or  8-inch  bock  at  the  back  ;  this  tends  to  keep  the  plants 
sturdy,  and  during  August  and  early  part  of  September  the  lights 
may  be  withdrawn  at  night,  as  the  plants  seem  to  enjoy  the  dews 
which  are  then  previlent.  Weak  liquid  manure  should  be  given  at 
each  watering,  as  smn  as  the  pots  are  full  of  roots. 
Towards  the  eid  of  September  many  plants  will  be  cominf^  info 
flower,  and  all  will  be  full  of  buds,  and  ought  to  be  removed  to  the 
greenhouse  or  conservatory,  where  they  will  flower  all  through  the 
winter.  I  find  it  x  good  plan  to  arrange  them  in  blocks  of  two  or 
three  dozen  planfl  of  3eparate  colours — viz.,  whites,  crimsons,  rose 
and  other  shades ;  this  gives  them  a  telling  and  distinct  appearance! 
By  the  above  systun  I  fiid  Cyclamens  much  easier  to  grow  than  Pelar¬ 
goniums,  and  thej  are  s  ilendid  for  cut  flowers.  I  omitted  to  mention 
that  if  green  fiyshouk  put  in  an  appearance  in  the  early  stao-es 
whilst  in  the  hated  pit  I  vapourise  them  with  nicotine  compound 
and  when  in  the  cold  f-ames,  being  somewhat  difficult  to  vaporise* 
I  have  found  syrnging  (r  spraying  with  quavia  extract  or  XL-All 
liquid  insecticideexcellen. — J.  Justice,  The  Nash,  Kempsey,  Worcester. 
[The  speciimns  sent  by  Mr.  Justice  included  both  flowers  and 
foliage,  which  vere  equa  in_colour,  substance,  and  form  to  any  w© 
have  seen.] 
