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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
March  15,  ISOO. 
A  Chat  About  Work  Among  Roses. 
March  is  a  busy  month  with  the  rosarian,  who  must  be  up  and 
doing  in  order  to  give  a  good  start  to  his  favourite  trees,  from  which 
he  hopes  for  such  fine  results  during  the  glorious  days  of  summer. 
Any  planting  which  has  been  unavoidably  delayed  ought  to  be 
completed  as  soon  as  possible,  for  although  the  soil  is  moist  enough 
now,  it  is  quite  possible  we  may  have  a  dry  spring  and  early  summer ; 
such  times  are  always  very  much  against  late  planted  trees  of  any 
kind.  When  late  planting  is  done  extra  care  should  be  taken  to 
insure  good  results.  After  the  roots  are  shortened,  if  they  are  in 
the  least  dry,  immersion  in  water  for  a  few  hours  is  of  great  benefit; 
then  with  care  in  planting  and  mulching  with  short  manure  one  feels 
for  a  time  quite  satisfied  as  to  results,  but  should  very  dry  weather 
occur  in  May  the  enthusiast  will  generally  find  the  means  to  water, 
and  thus  bring  to  a  successful  issue  the  work  which  was  begun  so 
well. 
The  pruning  of  Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  other  hardy  Eoses  must 
undoubtedly  rank  among  the  most  important  operations  needing 
attention  during  March,  and  when  the  operator  is  armed  with  a  keen- 
edged  knife  and  a  stout  pair  of  gloves  there  are  few  more  pleasant 
tasks  connected  with  the  art  of  gardening.  To  secure  fine  blooms 
worthy  to  grace  the  exhibition  table  hard  pruning  must  be  resorted 
to.  Cut  back  boldly  to  within  one  or  two  buds  of  the  base  of  each 
strong  shoot,  and  remove  weak  ones  entirely.  When  this  system  is 
practised  we  get  abundance  of  strong  shoots  each  year.  In  time  they 
become  too  strong  if  the  plants  are  not  periodically  lifted,  but  then 
that  work  is  a  necessary  part  of  the  system  for  supplying  fine 
blooms.  Once  in  three  or  four  years  the  bushes  ought  to  be  lifted, 
the  ground  trenched  and  thoroughly  manured.  Hard  pruning  and 
plenty  of  manure  may  be  termed  the  cardinal  points  in  growing 
first-rate  Eoses  on  dwarfs. 
Let  us  now  turn  to  the  consideration  of  Eoses  grown  in  beds 
purely  for  garden  ornamentation.  Some  like  to  see  beds  filled  with 
good  full  bushes,  ladened  with  numbers  of  flowers  ;  very  hard  pruning 
there  is  not  necessary.  For  the  first  year  or  two  the  strong  shoots 
sent  from  the  base  may  be  left  from  6  to  9  inches  in  length,  weaker 
ones  pruned  to  two  or  three  eyes.  In  time  less  vigorous  growth  is 
made,  and  as  the  bushes  increase  in  height  they  may  be  shortened 
regularly  to  two  or  three  eyes,  with  the  exception  of  very  w^eak  shoots, 
which  should  bo  entirely  removed.  A  few  worn  out  branches  will 
each  year  need  cutting  away  to  make  room  for  strong  shoots  springing 
from  the  base,  such  strong  shoots  to  be  left  from  9  inches  to  a  foot  in 
length.  When  treated  in  this  way  constant  vigour  is  maintained,  and 
if  no  disbudding  is  practised  a  wealth  of  beautiful  medium-sized 
flowers  is  obtained  which  make  the  heart  glad  by  their  brilliancy 
and  profusion  during  the  sunny  days  of  June. 
What  a  pity  it  is  that  the  Moss  Eoses  are  not  more  generally 
grown,  for  who  does  not  admire  them  when  their  pointed  buds  peep 
through  the  crested  ^  reenery  ?  Some  of  the  stronger  growing  varieties 
succeed  admirably  if  pegged  down,  the  side  shoots  being  pruned 
closely  each  year,  and  a  few  of  the  old  shoots  to  be  replaced  by 
strong  young  shoots.  In  other  instances  after  the  foundation  of  the 
bush  has  been  laid,  it  is  not  wise  to  prune  hard,  as  the  beauty  of  the 
flowers  does  not  lie  in  their  size;  a  profusion  of  pretty  buds  is  what 
all  wish  to  secure,  and  this  object  is  attained  by  moderate  shortening 
of  the  shoots. 
Arches  and  pillars  of  Eoses  are  the  glory  of  many  a  garden,  and 
although  their  time  of  beauty  is  only  a  fleeting  one,  the  impression 
lingers  in  the  memory,  even  after  the  summer  has  passed  and  the 
chilly  days  of  autumn  come.  The  climbing  Cluster  Eoses  are  especi- 
allp  suitable  for  covering  arches  and  rough  buildings,  as  their  growth 
is  so  rapid,  their  mamgement  so  simple,  and  their  floriferousness  so 
certain.  Cover  an  arch  with  Crimson  Eambler  and  Climbing  Wliite 
Pet,  and  then  behold  at  blossoming  time  truly  a  thing  of  beauty. 
After  pruning  newly  planted  stock  closely  to  lay  the  foundation,  the 
knife  need  sca'cely  touch  them  for  a  year  or  two  ;  rapid  progress  is 
then  made,  and  the  allotted  space  soon  covered;  till  then  only  a  few 
U'lripei.ed  shoots  need  cutting  away.  But  when  a  dense  thicket  is 
formed  thinning  requires  practising  each  year.  I  like  to  examine  the 
trees  when  the  flowers  have  faded,  removing  a  good  deal  of  the  small 
wood  which  has  flowered,  so  as  to  make  room  for  young  shoots  to  be 
trained  in  loosely  during  summer.  Some  of  the  very  strong  shoots  I 
stop,  or  clip  with  the  shears,  to  prevent  them  from  “  robbing  ”  the 
weaker  one-^. 
With  a’ches  so  managed  there  is  not  much  pruning  to  be  done 
now,  only  a  few  unripened  points  to  remove,  and  a  little  dead  wood  or 
useless  scrub  to  be  cut  away.  But  either  during  summer  or  in  spring 
such  attention  is  necessary,  to  keep  healthy  growths  covering  the 
whole  space.  In  training  avoid  'anything  approaching  formality,  tie 
sufficiently  to  keep  the  main  branches  secure  to  the  arches,  but  let 
plenty  cf  shoots  hang  loosely  in  all  directions,  then  when  wreathed 
with  Eoses  they  will  be  picturesque  indeed.  Aglaia  (Golden  Eambler), 
Euphrosine  (Pink  Eambler),  and  Thalia  (White  Eambler)  are  other 
fine  varieties  in  this  section.  Do  not  forget  to  treat  these  Eamblers 
liberally,  they  will  repay  the  trouble.  Eemove  a  few  inches  of  the 
soil,  give  a  coating  of  rich  manure,  and  cover  with  soil — fresh 
loam.  If  the  arches  are  near  lawns  or  walks  roll  back  the  turf  for  a 
few  feet,  stir  the  soil,  and  add  manure,  then  the  trees  will  go  on 
satisfactorily  each  year  without  showing  signs  of  age  or  decay. 
The  pretty  miniature  Polyantha  Eoses  are  charming  for  small  beds, 
or  for  edging  larger  ones,  and  as  they  make  compact  bushy  growth 
little  pruning  is  necessary.  Thin  out  the  shoots  here  and  there, 
sometimes  cut  away  an  old  branch,  and  wiry  looking  little  bushes 
will  be  formed.  Perle  d’Or  (orange),  Cecile  Brunner  (pink  and  yellow), 
and  White  Pet,  are  favourite  varieties  that  all  should  grow. — H.  D. 
A  Note  on  Pruning. 
The  question  of  pruning  Eoses  is  constantly  being  brought  forward, 
and  many  excellent  articles  have  been  written  on  the  subject.  The 
interest  in  the  queen  of  floweis  is,  however,  so  great,  that  one  may  turn 
again  to  the  subject  without  fear  of  opposition,  and  in  the  certain 
knowledge  that,  to  inexperienced  amateurs  at  any  rate,  the  remarks 
are  sure  to  be  welcome.  Where  only  a  few  dozen  Eoses  are  grown  the 
whole  may  be  pruned  in  one  day ;  but  where  they  are  cultivated  in 
large  numbers,  or  by  hundreds,  they  should  be  pruned  at  two  or  three 
different  times,  as  this  will  be  the  means  of  securing  a  much  longer 
succession  of  bloom. 
We  have  Eose  beds  in  several  portions  of  the  pleasure  gardens. 
Some  of  these  are  in  very  sheltered  positions,  while  others  are  consider¬ 
ably  exposed,  and  those  most  sheltered  are  pruned  first.  Those 
attended  to  first  are  producing  strong  shoots,  which  will  bo  well 
advanced  before  the  latest  have  formed  any  leaves,  and  in  this  way  we 
may  not  be  able  to  have  a  great  number  of  blooms  at  one  time,  but 
they  will  be  coming  in  for  many  weeks,  and  this  is  what  is  most 
desired  by  all  who  have  a  constant  supply  of  cut  flowers  to  provide. 
The  second  blooms,  which  are  always  much  valued,  generally  come  in 
August  and  September,  sometimes  in  October,  and  the  time  of  pruning 
in  spring  has  much  influence  on  the  last  Eoses  as  well  as  the  first. 
When  Eoses  are  not  in  leaf  at  pruning  time,  none  of  us  seems 
much  afraid  to  cut  them  well  down ;  but  when  the  shoots  are  2  or 
3  inches  long,  as  many  of  them  will  be  soon,  it  is  with  regret,  if  not 
fear,  that  they  are  cut.  In  conseciuence  many  of  the  shoots  are  left 
much  longer  than  would  otherwise  be  the  case,  and  the  result  is  that 
many  of  the  plants  have  very  long  bare  stems  at  the  bottom  and  a 
bushy  top,  w’hich  is  neither  very  ornamental,  nor  productive  of  fine 
blooms.  Dwarf  Eose  bishes  are  very  liable  to  assume  this  form, 
and  if  they  are  to  be  useful  pruning  must  not  be  spared.  Every 
stem,  whether  it  has  the  appearance  of  starting  into  growth  near 
the  ground  or  not,  should  be  cut  down  to  2  or  3  inches  from  the  soil, 
and  after  this,  although  they  may  be  a  little  longer  in  starting,  it  will 
be  surprising  where  the  number  of  young  shoots  have  come  from, 
and  it  will  be  still  more  astonishing  when  it  is  seen  the  improvement 
which  will  take  place  with  them  before  the  end  of  the  season.  We 
treated  many  plants  in  this  way  last  season,  and  the  results  were 
satisfactory  in  the  highest  degree. 
Marechal  Niel  for  Walls. 
The  beautiful  and  popular  Marechal  Niel  has  had  some  attention 
of  late,  and  I  should  like  to  refer  to  the  fact  that  it  can  be  grown  on 
a  south  or  west  wall  out  of  doors,  and  a  good  plant  growing  under 
favourable  conditions  is  an  object  of  rare  beauty.  It  is  a  climbing 
[ilant,  essentially  worthy  of  having  some  special  treatment.  It  is  a 
good  plan  to  take  out  the  soil  of  the  border  2  feet  deep  where  it  is 
j  roposed  to  plant  the  E(  se, and  if  the  soil  is  very  light  it  may  not  be 
tiecessary  to  put  in  any  drainage,  but  if  the  subsoil  is  clayey  we  should 
excavate  6  inches  deeper,  and  put  9  inches  of  brickbats  at  the  bottom, 
and  over  this  a  layer  of  turl,  grass  side  downwards.  The  border  ought 
to  be  made  at  least  3  feet  wide,  and  should  be  twice  as  much  long. 
I’he  soil  should  be  turfy  lojim,  fresh  if  you  can  get  it,  chopped  up 
roughly,  and  to  this  add  a  fourth  of  well  decayed  manure,  thoroughly 
incorporating  it  with  the  soil.  Procure  a  plant  on  the  Briar,  budded 
close  to  the  soil,  and  a  year  from  the  bud.  Do  not  have  an  old  stunted 
plant,  they  seldom  do  any  good,  and  those  that  have  been  grown  under 
glass  and  highly  fed,  so  as  to  make  a  sappy  shoot  of  8  or  10  feet 
length  in  a  season,  and  in  a  small  pot,  are  not  worth  having  at  a 
•jift.  Plant  so  that  the  whole  of  the  stock  is  covered  with  soil,  making 
the  latter  firm  about  the  platt.  Mulch  the  roots  with  short  manure, 
and  give  water  if  the  weather  is  dry.  A  strong  plant  will  bear  scores 
of  magnificent  blooms. — Eosarian. 
