March  Li,  1900. 
233 
JOUnXAL  OF  lIOllTTGUUrunE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
ii 
1 
1 
30  WOKKJoiitheW; 
e: 
EK.a 
l&llBlf 
Hardy  Frait  Garden. 
Grafting  Fruit  Trees. — Healthy  atul  vigorous  fruit  trees  that  grow 
well  and  produce  good  wood  and  foliage  but  do  not  bear  fruit,  may  bo 
changed  in  character  by  grafting  upon  them  scions  of  superior  varieties. 
The  trees  which  are  to  be  operated  on  require  the  branches  to  be 
headed  down  to  near  the  point  selected  for  inserting  the  scions.  This 
heading  down  is  best  carried  oiit  several  weeks  prior  to  grafting,  but 
a  fresh  slice  ought  always  to  be  removed  on  the  day  of  inserting  the 
scions,  because  then  the  edges  of  the  bark  work  freely  and  the 
grafts  are  more  readily  fixed. 
Scions  must  be  in  a  dormant  condition  when  inserted,  and  to  insure 
maintaining  them  quiescent  from  the  time  they  are  cut  from  the  trees 
to  preparing  them  for  insertion,  they  must  be  laid  in  moist  soil  nearly 
their  full  length  under  a  north  wall. 
IVoper  Time  for  Orafting. — The  exact  Time  for  inserting  grafts  is 
just  when  growth  commences  on  trees  in  general.  Of  course,  trees 
headed  down  completely  to  bare  wood  have  no  buds  to  show  when 
growth  commences,  but  neighbouring  trees  indicate  this;  therefore, 
noting  them,  it  is  safe  to  assume  that  the  sap  is  beginning  to  be  active 
iti  the  headed  down  trees.  From  the  middle  to  the  end  of  March  is 
usually  the  beat  time;  in  late  seasons  early  April. 
Crown  or  Rind  Grafting. — This  is  the  best  form  of  grafting  for  large 
branches  and  all  stocks  over  an  inch  in  diameter.  Several  scions  or 
grafts  may  be  attached  to  one  stock,  allowing  a  couple  of  inches 
between  each.  Slit  the  bark  down  the  side  about  2  inches,  passing  just 
through  the  bark.  Select  the  middle  part  of  the  previous  year’s  shoots 
to  form  the  scions,  each  containing  four  buds,  Cut  these  the  same 
length  as  the  slit  in  the  stock,  the  cut  being  made  in  a  slanting  direction 
downwards.  At  the  upper  edge  of  the  cut  make  a  short  transverse 
incision,  which  will  form  a  shoulder  by  which  the  scion  can  be  firmly 
seated  on  the  stock.  Juft  the  bark  on  each  side  of  the  slit  in  the  stock, 
and  pass  the  scion  firmly,  but  gently,  down  until  the  proper  position  is 
reached.  Jt  is  important  that  the  inner  barks  of  both  stock  and  scion 
should  exactly  join  in  order  that  a  good  anion  may  be  formed.  When 
a  convenient  number  of  scions  have  been  attached  to  each  branch 
secure  them  all  in  at  once  with  some  soft  tying  material,  and  cover 
the  whole  with  grafting  wax.  Maintain  moisture  by  damp  moss  secured 
round. 
Side  or  Whip  Grafting. — Young  stocks  less  than  an  inch  in  diameter 
may  be  grafted  simply  by  this  method,  working  quite  low  down.  In 
this  case  the  scion  ought  to  be  the  same  thickness  as  the  stock.  The 
top  of  the  stock  should  be  a  slanting  cut,  made  upwards,  3  inches 
long.  The  cut  in  the  scion  must  be  downwards  the  same  length,  and 
made  to  fit  as  exactly  as  possible.  Choose  good  ripe  wood  with  bold 
buds  as  scions,  though  the  buds  ought  to  be  quite  dormant.  When  the 
grafts  are  secured,  tied  in,  and  waxed,  soil  can  bo  heaped  round.  This 
will  further  tend  to  keep  all  regularly  moist. 
Completion  of  Pruning. — Standard  fruit  trees(,  bushes  and  wall  trees, 
which  have  not  liitherto  been  pruned  or  regulated  this  season,  must  be 
attended  to  at  once.  Nothing  is  better  for  standard  trees  than  the 
practice  of  thinning-out  branches  wherever  they  are  crowded,  especi¬ 
ally  removing  tJiose  crossing  and  interlacing,  net  shortening  them  as  a 
makeshift,  but  cutting  them  out  erjtirely  close  to  the  main  branches 
from  which  they  spring.  Jlush  trees  should  have  the  main  branches 
reduced  in  number  if  it  is  apparent  that  too  many  exist  for  the  welfare 
of  the  trees.  No  varieties  of  Apples  and  Pears  ought  to  have  the 
main  branches  closer  together  than  a  foot,  and  some  of  the  more 
vigorous  growers,  having  spurs  longer  than  normal,  will  be  all  the 
more  prolific  at  15  to  18  inches  asunder;  also  reduce  the  length  of 
spurs,  and  thin-out  where  unduly  crowded. 
Now  that  Gooseberries  are  fairly  advanced  in  growth,  a  little  prun¬ 
ing  away  of  shoots  which  may  have  been  denuded  of  buds  will  be 
advantageous,  giving  the  bushes  all  the  more  chance  for  accommodating 
the  fruitful  shoots.  Newly  planted  Gooseberries  and  Currants  may 
have  the  shoots  shortened  two-thirds,  so  that  the  resulting  growth  will 
be  strong  and  vigorous  for  establishing  a  shapely  tree  or  bush. 
llaspberiies  may  also  be  shortened,  established  canes  having  the 
tips  removed  to  tlie  tops  of  the  stakes  or  trellis,  and  young  newly 
planted  canes  cut  closely  down  near  the  soil. 
Attend  also  to  wall  trees.  Horizontal  and  fan. trained  may  have 
every  other  branch  taken  out,  or  such  as  will  admit  of  those  remaining 
having  sufficient  space,  and  being  well  placed  for  the  fruiting  spurs  to 
receive  more  light  and  air.  Vacancies  caused  by  the  removal  of  dead 
wood  or  worn-out  branches  may  possibly  be  filled  up  with  young  shoots 
from  the  base  or  other  parts.  It  is  necessary  to  obtain  them  from  as 
near  the  base  as  possible,  thus  maintaining  a  well  balanced  and 
furnished  tree.  In  the  case  of  Morello  Cherries  on  walls  secure  a  fair 
quantity  of  young  wood,  nailing  it  in  about  4  inches  apart,  leaving  it, 
as  a  rule,  unshortened.  Cut  out  old  and  weak  wood. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. —  Early  Forced  Trees. — During  the  stoning 
process  an  equable  temperature  is  desirable.  Too  much  heat  at  night 
deprives  the  trees  of  rest,  and  this  is  not  favourable  to  the  fruit.  Cold 
draughts  in  the  daytime  sometimes  give  a  sudden  check  fatal  to  the 
crop.  Attend  to  thinning  the  fruit  betimes.  Secure  all  shoots  required 
for  extension  to  the  trellis  as  they  progress,  stopping  successional 
growths  at  a  length  of  about  15  inches,  and  pinch  laterals  at  the  first 
leaf,  also  succeeding  growths  as  made.  Shoots  retained  to  attract  the 
sap  to  the  fruit  stopped  to  one  leaf,  they  having  previously  had  the 
first  growth  pinched  at  the  second  or  third  leaf.  Avoid  stimulating  the 
trees  whilst  stoning,  but  alTord  due  supplies  of  water  and  food  of  a 
phosphatic  rather  than  nitrogenous  nature. 
Second  Early  Forced  Trees. — Proceed  with  disbudding,  a  shoot  being 
left  at  the  base  of  the  present  year’s  bearing  wood,  and  one  level 
with  or  beyond  the  fruit.  The  first  must  be  trained  forward,  but  the 
latter  should  be  stopped  at  the  second  or  third  joint.  Upon  extensions 
leave  young  shoots  at  15  to  18  inches  distance,  the  growth  from  the 
extremity  being  trained  as  a  continuation  of  the  primary  branch. 
Commence  tying  early,  as  when  the  shoots  are  allowed  to  grow  con¬ 
siderably  they  cannot  be  brought  down  without  danger  of  breaking. 
Guard  against  overcrowding,  as  it  is  fatal  to  fine,  highly  coloured  fruits 
and  the  formation  and  perfection  of  the  wood  for  future  crops.  Thin 
the  fruits  by  degrees,  leaving  those  well  disposed  upon  the  upper  side 
of  the  trellis. 
Houses  Started  at  the  Beginning  of  February. — Any  trees  still  in 
blossom  should  be  fei  tilised  when  the  pollen  is  ripe.  When  the  fruit  is 
all  set  recourse  must  be  had  to  syringing  in  the  morning  and  afternoon 
of  fine  days,  but  an  occasional  sprinkling,  with  damping  the  house,  will 
sulfice  in  dull  weather,  always  having  the  foliage  and  young  fruit  dry 
before  night.  Disbudding  must  be  done  gradually,  commencing  with 
the  most  forward  growths,  also  thinning  the  fruit  after  it  is  seen  which 
takes  the  lead  in  swelling.  A  temperature  of  55°  at  night,  5°  less  on 
cold  mornings,  55°  to  G0°  by  day,  advancing  to  65°  or  70°  with  gleams 
of  sun,  will  bring  the  fruit  on  sufficiently  fast,  ventilating  from  55°  to 
60°,  and  not  allowing  an  advance  above  65°  without  full  ventilation. 
Houses  Started  Early  in  March. — With  the  flowers  expanding 
syringing  the  trees  must  cease,  for  there  is  danger,  especially  in  dull 
weather,  of  weakening  the  blossom  and  converting  the  pollen  into 
paste.  An  occasional  syringing  may,  however,  be  practised  if  the 
weather  be  unusually  bright  and  the  atmosphere  dry.  Damping  the 
floors  and  borders  is  generally  sufficient  and  a  safer  plan.  Admit  air 
freely  in  mild  weather  and  fertilise  the  flowers  on  fine  days.  Maintain 
the  night  temperature  at  45°  to  60°,  55°  by  day  and  65°  from  sun  heat. 
Admit  a  little  air  constantly,  increase  the  ventilation  at  50°,  and  give 
more  as  the  heat  rises,  having  full  air  on  at  65°,  closing  at  50°. 
Superfluous  flowers  on  the  under  side  or  back  of  the  shoots  may  be 
removed. 
Late  Houses. — Where  the  roof -lights  have  been  removed  they  should 
be  replaced,  the  buds  being  well  advanced  in  swelling,  and  promise  an 
abundant  crop  of  fruit.  If  there  are  any  traces  of  aphides  apply  an 
insecticide  or  fumigate  the  house  before  the  flowers  expand.  Nothing 
conduces  more  to  a  good  set  than  removing  the  flowers  on  the  under 
side  or  back  of  the  trellis,  and  turning  on  the  heat  after  the  anthers 
show  for  a  short  time  in  the  early  part  of  the  day,  to  advance  the 
temperature  to  50°  and  to  permit  of  ventilation,  as  if  there  is  a 
prevalence  of  dull,  cold  weather  at  that  time,  closing  the  ventilator 
for  protection  prejudices  the  pollen.  Houses  that  have  fixed  roof- 
lights  must  have  the  borders  rendered  thoroughly  moist,  but  not  made 
sodden  and  sour. 
Pines. — Suckers. — The  rooting  of  potted  suckers  will  be  indicated  by 
the  growth  of  the  foliage,  but  it  is  well  to  turn  the  plants  out  of  the 
pots,  or  a  portion  of  them,  to  ascertain  the  condition  of  the  roots  and 
the  soil.  The  young  roots  which  issue  from  the  base  of  suckers  or 
{)lants  similarly  treated  are  very  tender  and  susceptible  of  injury  from 
the  effects  of  too  much  bottom  heat,  hence  when  the  roots  reach  the 
sides  of  the  pots  85°  is  ample,  above  which  there  is  danger.  When  the 
bottom  heat  is  excessive  the  pots  must  be  raised,  placing  some  loose 
tan  under  and  around  them  to  allow  the  superfluous  heat  to  pass  away 
without  injuring  the  roots.  The  plants  should  be  carefully  supplied 
with  water  and  not  have  too  much  top  heat ;  nor  be  too  far  from  the 
glass,  or  they  will  become  drawn  and  weakly. 
'Potting. —  Once  the  suckers  and  other  plants  subjected  to  similar 
treatment  start  they  make  roots  rapidly,  therefore  have  soil  ready  for 
transferring  to  the  fruiting  pots,  as  it  is  important  that  they  be 
grown  without  check,  by  being  either  root-bound  or  dry.  Sound, 
fibrous  loam  in  good  sized  lumps  is  the  best  material  for  potting, 
rejecting  the  dusty  particles.  It  should  be  pressed  firmly  round  the 
balls  of  the  plants,  watering  them  if  the  soil  be  dry  (not  otherwise) 
with  tepid  water,  and  plunging  them  in  a  bottom  heat  of  90°  to  95° 
until  the  roots  have  possession  of  the  fresh  soil,  when  85°  is  more 
suitable.  The  top  heat  should  be  at  60°  to  65°  at  night,  and  70°  to  75° 
by  day,  with  10°  to  16“  rise  from  sun  heat. 
Fruiting  Plants. — Those  at  or  near  the  flowering  stage  should  have  a- 
night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°,  and  75°  by  day,  with  80°  to  90°  from 
sun  heat,  closing  at  85°,  well  damping  paths  and  walls  at  the  same 
time.  Successional  plants  may  have  a  bottom  heat  of  about  85°,  venti¬ 
lating  at  80°  and  closing  at  85°,  lightly  sprinkling  the  plants  occasionally^ 
