March  22,  1900. 
JOURXAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
255 
made  firm.  After  potting  stand  the  pots  out  of  doors,  and  cover  them 
■with  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  or  ashes  till  growth  commences ;  they  should 
then  he  transferred  to  a  cold  frame,  where  they  will  obtain  abundance 
of  air  and  light,  as  these  are  indispensable  factors  in  producing  the  best 
results.  If  it  is  desired  to  have  them  in  flower  earlier,  they  may  be 
placed  in  an  intermediate  house  or  heated  frame,  and  should  be  raised 
as  Dear  the  glass  as  possible,  or  the  foliage  will  become  drawn. 
When  the  pots  are  well  filled  with  roots,  they  will  benefit  by 
occasional  applications  of  liquid  manure  or  soot  water;  audit  may  be 
continued  with  advantage  till  the  bulbs  are  almost  ripe.  After  flower¬ 
ing,  the  pots  should  be  placed  in  a  cold  frame  in  the  full  sun,  till  the 
leaves  have  completed  their  work  and  the  bulbs  are  thoroughly  ripe, 
when  they  can  be  stored  away  in  a  dry  position  till  the  time  agaiu 
arrives  for  potting. — Aspirant. 
Forced  Bulbs. 
There  are  numberless  bulbs  annually  consigned  to  the  refuse  heap, 
or  otherwise  wasted,  which  if  taken  care  of  and  planted  in  bare  places 
by  the  side  of  woodland  walks  and  pleasure  ground  borders,  would  go 
far  to  render  them  at  certain  seasons  the  most  attractive  portion  of  the 
demesne.  In  no  situation  are  plants  of  this  character  so  attractive  as 
when  they  are  associated  with  woodland  scenery,  springing  through  a 
carpet  of  green  grass,  which  shows  them  off  to  advantage.  Planting  in 
rows,  as  is  generally  done  in  beds,  favours  a  formal  appearance,  but 
dotted  about  under  deciduous  trees  or  shrubbery  borders,  encourages  a 
much  more  natural  aspect. 
Although  the  bulbs  may  not  produce  such  large  flowers,  or  spikes  as 
when  planted  in  rich  soil  in  the  open,  the  deficiency  is  made  up  by  the 
splendid  masses  thev  attain  to  when  left  undisturbed,  as  they  can  be  in 
such  plantations.  In  order  to  give  them  a  fair  start  the  soil  should  be 
broken  up  to  a  good  depth,  and  some  short  well  decomposed  manure 
worked  in  at  the  bottom,  which  will  add  largely  to  their  strength  and 
vigour.  A  soil  that  is  light  and  open  is  most  suitable,  and  in  this 
practically  all  bulbs  will  flourish  and  increase  rapidly.  There  are 
places  in  all  gardens  that  may  be  much  improved  and  beautified  by 
such  planting,  for  if  there  is  only  a  single  shrub  or  specimen  tree  of 
any  kind  its  beauty  will  be  greatly  enhanced  by  a  few  clumps  of  bulbs 
around  it.  Beds  of  Ehododendrons,  Eoses,  and  shrubberies  are  con¬ 
siderably  enlivened,  and  the  bulbs  do  very  little  harm. 
Every  care  should  be  taken  of  the  plants  after  flowering  is  over, 
owing  to  the  tender  state  they  are  in  from  being  subjected  to  heat,  and 
the  sudden  transition  therefrom.  It  is  no  uncommon  thing  to  notice 
numberless  bulbs  of  different  descriptions  thrust  out  into  the  open  and 
exposed  to  cutting  winds  directly  the  flowers  fade.  The  proper  way 
to  treat  them  is  to  stand  the  pots  in  a  light  airy  position  in  a  cool 
house  or  pit,  and  administer  just  sufficient  water  to  keep  the  soil  moist 
till  they  show  sjmptoms  of  going  to  rest  naturally,  after  which  they 
may  be  placed  in  the  positions  assigned  them. — Brassica. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
vines. — Earliest  Houses. — In  the  very  early  started  houses  colouring 
will  shortly  be  proceeding.  Afford  a  thorough  supply  of  tepid  liquid 
manure  and  mulch  the  border  at  once  with  an  inch  or  two  thickness  of 
partially  decayed  manure,  preferably  rather  lumpy.  The  mulching 
must  be  sweet,  then  it  gives  a  stimulus  to  the  roots  and  secures  healthy 
foliage.  Damping  should  be  continued  until  the  Grapes  are  well 
advanced  in  colouring,  after  which  reduce  the  moisture  gradually,  and 
insure  a  circulation  of  warm  air  day  and  night  by  regulating  the  venti¬ 
lation  judiciously.  In  most  cases  the  thorough  moistening  of  border  at 
the  time  of  changing  colour  will  suffice  till  the  Grapes  are  ripe,  but 
there  must  be  no  lack  of  moisture,  or  it  may  cause  the  premature 
ripening  of  the  wood  and  the  loss  of  the  principal  leaves.  The  tempera¬ 
ture  should  be  maintained  at  70°  to  75°  in  the  daytime,  with  a  rise  of 
10°  to  15°  from  sun  heat,  allowing  the  temperature  to  fall  during  the 
night  to  65°,  or  even  60°. 
Vines  in  Flower. — A  circulation  of  warm,  rather  dry  air,  and  a 
temperature  of  65°  to  70°  at  night  for  Black  Hamburgh  and  similar 
varieties,  and  70°  to  76°  for  Muscats,  facilitates  a  good  set.  Muscats 
and  other  shy-setting  varieties  should  be  brushed  over  with  a  camel’s- 
hair  brush  about  the  time  the  blossom  is  fully  expanded,  so  as  to  rid 
the  stigmas  of  the  caps  and  glutinous  substance,  choosing  a  warm 
part  of  the  day  after  the  house  has  been  rather  freely  ventilated. 
The  operation  will  render  the  flowers  fitted  for  fertilisation,  effecting 
this  by  brushing  them  over  with  a  brush  surcharged  with  pollen 
taken  from  free-setting  A-arieties,  such  as  Alicante  and  Black  Hamburgh. 
Disbudding. — The  Vines  in  midseason  houses  will  require  attention, 
not  attempting  it,  however,  until  the  bunches  appear  in  the  points  of 
the  shoots,  and  then  it  ought  not  to  be  done  in  a  hurry,  nor  a  large 
reduction  made  at  one  time.  Proceed  gradually  and  with  discrimination, 
BO  as  to  give  as  little  check  as  possible  to  the  Vines.  Eetain  no  more 
shoots  than  can  have  full  exposure  to  light,  crowding  being  a  great 
evil.  Allow  for  the  due  extension  of  the  laterals,  for  on  this  depends 
sustained  root  activity  till  the  crop  is  perfected. 
Stopping. — Permit  the  bearing  shoots  to  extend  according  to  space. 
If  this  is  restricted  by  the  Vines  being  close,  the  shoot  may  be  pinched 
at  the  first  leaf  beyond  the  bunch,  and  this  should  be  done  when  the 
leaf  is  the  size  of  a  penny.  When  there  is  a  moderate  space  between 
the  rods  allow  two  joints  beyond  the  show  for  fruit.  Where  there  is 
abundance  of  room  let  the  shoots  with  fruit  extend  three  or  four  leaves 
beyond  the  bixnches  before  taking  out  their  points.  Laterals  below  the 
bunches  may  be  rubbed  off,  except  from  the  two  lowest  leaves,  pinching 
them  at  the  first  joint.  But  laterals  above  the  bunch  may  either  be 
pinched  to  one  joint  or  allowed  to  extend  until  the  available  space  is 
covered  or  nearly  so,  then  pinch,  and  keep  them  within  bounds  after¬ 
wards  by  stopping  to  one  joint  of  growth  as  made. 
Thinning. — Eemove  all  superfluous  and  duplicate  bunches  before 
they  flower.  Setting  depends  on  the  good  form  of  the  bunch,  and  on 
its  receiving  the  essentials  of  fertilisation.  Free  setting  varieties  may 
have  the  berries  thinned  as  soon  as  they  are  out  of  flower,  but  Muscats 
and  other  shy  setters  should  not  be  thinned  until  it  is  seen  which 
berries  have  been  properly  fertilised  by  tbeir  taking  the  lead  in  swelling. 
Every  berry  should  have  room  to  swell  without  becoming  wedged,  aud 
yet  leave  enough  berries  to  insure  the  bunch  retaining  its  form 
when  cut. 
Watering,  Feeding,  and  Mulching.  —  Vines  require  very  moderate- 
supplies  of  water  until  they  are  in  leaf,  sufficing  that  the  soil  be  kept 
moist,  but  when  the  leaves  are  full  sized  the  evaporation  from  them  is 
considerable,  and  from  that  time  until  the  fruit  ripens  they  must  not 
lack  water  at  the  roots.  The  watering  should  be  regulated  according  to 
the  requirements — dimensions  and  formation  of  the  border.  A  narrow 
border  will  require  watering  twice  as  often  as  one  double  the  width, 
assuming  the  Vines  to  be  equally  extended  and  cropped,  while  a  border 
of  loose  material  will  need  water  much  more  frequently  than  ono 
formed  of  firm  retentive  loam.  Due  regard,  therefore,  most  be  had  to 
the  state  of  the  Vines  in  relation  to  tbe  rooting  area  and  to  the 
weather,  as  water  will  be  required  much  oftener  in  hot  dry  weather 
than  when  cold  and  dull.  The  proper  procedure  is  to  examine  the 
border,  and  when  water  is  required  give  it  abundantly.  Surface  dress¬ 
ings  cf  artificial  manures,  such  as  those  advertised,  are  of  great  benefit 
for  the  health  of  the  Vines,  and  the  swelling  and  perfecting  of  their 
crops.  A  dressing  of  about  4  ozs.  per  square  yard  may  be  given  as 
soon  as  the  Vines  start  into  growth,  another  after  the  Grapes  have 
been  thinned,  a  third  during  stoning,  and  a  final  one  when  tbe  Grapes 
commence  the  last  swelling,  or  just  before  or  when  beginning  to  colour. 
Liquid  manure  acts  more  promptly,  and  may  be  supplied  whenever 
water  is  required,  taking  care  that  it  is  not  too  strong,  and  is 
warmed  to  the  mean  temperature  of  the  house. 
Vines  restricted  to  narrow  borders  will  need  higher  feeding  than 
those  with  large  rooting  areas,  affording  liquid  manure  whenever  water 
is  requisite,  but  it  is  well  to  change  the  food  occasionally.  A  mulching 
of  short  manure,  sweet  and  lumpy,  such  as  stable  litter  freed  of  straw, 
about  an  inch  thick,  and  added  to  from  time  to  time  so  as  to  maintain 
that  thickness,  is  excellent  for  ordinary  borders,  but  those  composed  of 
light  porous  materials  should  have  a  mulching  of  well  decayed  manure, 
as  it  lies  closer,  and  the  roots  of  the  Vines  are  attracted  to  it  through 
its  retaining  moisture  better  and  longer. 
Late  Vines. — If  started  in  February  or  early  in  this  month  they 
will  be  swelling  their  buds  and  have  all  the  growing  season  before 
them.  Use  the  syringe  twice  a  day,  seeking  to  secure  a  good  start  by 
closing  the  house  with  a  genial  humid  atmosphere,  but  not  a  saturated 
one,  at  a  temperature  of  about  75°.  The  canes  of  young  Vines  having 
been  brought  to  a  horizontal  position  the  buds  will  break  evenly  ;  if  not 
depress  the  points  still  more.  Bring  inside  borders  into  a  thoroughly 
moist  but  not  sodden  condition.  The  outside  border  will  be  sufficiently 
protected  by  a  fine  tilth  of  soil,  or  if  firm  and  close  at  the  surface  a 
light  mulch  of  lumpy,  partially  decayed  material  will  protect  the  young 
fibres  from  chill,  and  accelerate  surface  rooting  while  feeding  the 
Vines.  When  lumpy  and  not  more  than  a  couple  of  inches  thick  it  is 
of  great  benefit  in  preserving  uniform  moisture,  while  admitting  of  the 
free  access  of  the  sun’s  warmth  and  of  rain  and  air. 
- 1*#*! - 
Gardeners’  Charitable  and  Provident  Institutions 
The  Gardeners’  Eoyal  Benevolent  Institution.  —  Secretary, 
Mr.  G.  J.  Ingram,  175,  Victoria  Street,  S.W. 
United  Horticultural  Benefit  and  Provident  Society.— /Secretary, 
Mr.  W.  Collins,  9,  Martindale  Eoad,  Balham,  London,  S.W. 
Eoyal  Gardeners’  Orphan  Fund.— Secretary,  Mr.  Brian  Wynne, 
8,  Danes  Inn,  Strand.  London,  W.C. 
