March  29,  1900.. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
275 
Pears,  which  invariably  prodnce  more  bloom  than  desirable,  rendering 
the  chance  of  securing  a  good  set  rather  improbable. 
Forking  and  Hoeing  Fruit  Borders. — The  practice  of  digging  between 
fruit  trees  and  bushes  is  not  to  be  recommended,  as  it  is  liable  to 
mutilate  the  fibrous  roots  if  they  are  present  near  the  surface.  Point¬ 
ing  the  soil  over  among  bushes  and  between  large  trees  may  be  adopted, 
but  it  must  not  be  carried  out  deeply.  Ground  that  has  been  previously 
treated  will  now  require  nothing  further  than  breaking  the  surface 
with  a  hoe  in  order  to  cut  down  seedling  weeds,  and  make  a  pulverised 
surface. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Cucumbers. — On  bright  days,  especially  after  a  period  of  dull 
weather,  shade  from  powerful  sun  will  be  necessary  to  prevent 
flagging,  but  it  should  only  be  used  for  a  few  hours  at  the  hottest 
part  of  the  day.  Plants  in  full  bearing  will  need  assistance  with 
top-dressings  of  fertilisers  or  applications  of  liquid  manure,  adding 
fresh  warmed  soil  to  the  beds  as  the  roots  protrude.  Thin  out  the 
exhausted  growths  of  plants  that  have  been  in  bearing  some  time, 
and  encourage  new  bearing  shoots.  If  worms  are  troublesome  expel 
them  with  lime  or  soot  water,  a  peck  to  30  gallons  of  water,  stirring 
well,  letting  it  stand  forty-eight  hours,  then  watering  with  the  clear 
liquid.  Subdue  canker  at  the  collar  and  in  the  old  growths  by  rubbing 
quicklime  into  the  affected  parts.  Damp  the  floor  in  the  morning 
between  seven  and  eight  o’clock,  and  again  in  the  afternoon  about 
three  o’clock,  syringing  the  foliage  gently  on  warm  afternoons,  and 
keep  liquid  manure  in  the  evaporation  troughs.  Attend  to  stopping, 
thinning  and  training,  at  least  once  a  week.  Maintain  a  night  and 
dull-day  temperature  of  70’  to  75°,  80°  to  90°  by  day  with  sun,  and 
close  sufficiently  early  to  rise  between  the  latter  degree  and  100°,  with 
an  abundance  of  atmospheric  moisture.  Ventilate  moderately  and 
early,  avoiding  sudden  changes  of  temperature,  also  currents  of  cold 
air,  which  cripple  the  foliage  and  cause  the  young  fruit  to  become 
deformed  and  to  swell  irregularly. 
Pits  and  Frames. — Cucumbers  in  these  require  the  growths  trained 
rather  thinly,  pegging  them  down  as  required,  stopping  one  joint 
beyond  the  show  for  fruit,  or  the  leading  growths  about  1  foot  from  the 
sides  of  the  frame.  Maintain  the  requisite  heat  by  renewing  the 
linings.  Add  fresh  warmed  soil  to  the  hillocks  as  the  roots  extend. 
Be  moderate  in  the  application  of  water,  as  the  nights  are  as  yet  cold, 
and  employ  thick  night  coverings.  Admit  a  little  air  early  so  as  to 
have  the  foliage  dry  before  the  sun  acts  powerfully  upon  it.  The  heat 
through  the  day  may  range  from  75°  to  90°  with  sun.  Close  early  in 
the  afternoon,  no  harm  accruing  if  the  temperature  rise  to  90°,  or 
even  100°,  provided  there  is  no  rank  vapour.  If  there  is  danger  from  it 
admit  a  little  air  constantly,  a  small  opening  being  suflBcient  to  allow 
it  to  escape,  as  it  is  very  light. 
Melons. — The  earliest  plants  will  have  fruit  set  or  setting  on  the 
first  laterals.  A  rather  drier  atmosphere,  and  no  more  water  than  to 
prevent  flagging,  with  an  increase  of  temperature  of  5°,  and  a  circulation 
of  warm  air,  are  desirable  during  the  setting  period.  The  flowers 
shoul^  be  fertilised  every  day  when  fully  expanded,  pinching  out  the 
points  of  the  shoots  one  or  two  joints  beyond  the  fruit.  When  the 
fruits  are  set,  and  the  size  of  Walnuts,  give  the  bed  a  thorough  water, 
ing,  and  in  a  day  or  two  add  soil  to  the  sides  of  the  ridges  or  hillocks, 
pressing  it  firmly,  and  again  supplying  water  or  liquid  manure.  The 
soil,  water,  or  liquid  should  be  warmed  to  the  temperature  of  the  bed. 
Stop  the  subsequent  growths  to  one  or  two  joints,  and  prevent  over¬ 
crowding  by  rubbing  off  shoots  for  which  there  is  not  room  for  the 
foliage  to  have  full  exposure  to  light.  Do  not  overcrop  the  plants,  but 
leave  the  fruit  proportionate  to  the  vigour,  say  two  on  weakly,  three  or 
four  on  vigorous,  and  very  strong  plants  may  carry  six  fruits. 
A  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°,  75°  by  day,  ventilating  from  that 
point,  increasing  with  sun  to  85°  or  90°,  closing  early  to  secure  the 
latter  degree,  or  even  rising  to  95°  or  100° ;  bottom  heat  80°  to  85°. 
Damp  the  house  in  the  morning,  syringe  moderately  by  or  before  three 
o’clock  on  bright  warm  afternoons,  damping  the  paths  and  walls  in 
the  evening.  Keep  the  evaporation  troughs  filled  with  liquid  manure. 
Plants  in  narrow  beds  will  require  plenty  of  liquid  nourishment,  always 
in  advance  of  the  mean  temperature  of  the  house,  and  top-dressings  of 
rich  material. 
Successional  Plants. — Train  the  growths  regularly,  remove  every 
alternate  lateral,  rubbing  them  off  directly  they  are  perceived,  the 
remainder  being  trained  to  the  right  and  left  of  the  stem.  Pinch  out 
the  points  of  the  primary  shoots  after  they  have  extended  two-thirds  of 
the  required  distance.  Increase  the  supply  of  moisture  both  at  the 
roots  and  in  the  atmosphere  as  the  days  lengthen.  Pot  seedlings,  shift 
into  large  pots,  and  plant  out  as  required.  Sow  more  seeds  to  afford 
plants  in  proportion  to  the  wants  of  individual  establishments.  In  pits 
and  frames  a  bottom  heat  of  80°  should  be  secured  to  plants  that  are 
growing  freely,  renewing  the  linings  as  required.  In  newly  made  beds 
the  bottom  heat  should  be  about  80°. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  Houses. — When  the  very 
early  varieties,  such  as  Alexander,  Waterloo,  Early  Beatrice,  and  Early 
Louise  Peaches  ;  Advance,  Cardinal,  and  Early  Rivers  Nectarines  give 
indications  of  ripening  syringing  must  cease,  and  the  leaves  that  shade 
the  fruit  be  drawn  aside,  raising  the  fruit,  if  necessary,  on  laths  placed 
across  the  wires  of  the  trellis,  so  that  its  apex  will  be  directly  to  the 
light.  Such  varieties  as  Hale’s  Early,  Stirling  Castle,  Royal  George, 
and  Dymond  Peaches;  Lord  Napier,  Stanwick  Elruge,  and  Goldoni  or 
Humboldt  Nectarines,  on  the  other  hand,  must  not  be  hurried  until  the 
stoning  is  completed,  continuing  the  temperature  at  60°  to  65°  at  night 
and  on  dull  days,  70°  to  75°  by  day  with  sun  heat,  and  free  ventilation, 
avoiding  sudden  fluctuations  and  depressions.  r'  = 
Regulate  the  growths,  not  having  those  for  future  bearing  too 
close,  but  give  them  ample  room  alike  to  benefit  the  fruit  and  the  wood. 
Shoots  disposed  to  grow  more  than  14  inches  may  have  the  points 
pinched  off,  but  extensions  should  be  trained  in  their  full  length. 
When  the  stoning  is  completed  regulate  the  crop  for  the  final  swelling. 
Vigorous  trees  may  be  allowed  to  carry  more  than  one  fruit  to  each 
square  foot  of  trellis,  while  weakly  trees  should  not  be  permitted  to 
bear  so  many.  Supply  liquid  manure  to  weakly  trees,  the  inside  border 
in  any  case  being  kept  properly  watered,  mulching  the  surface  with  a 
little  well-decayed  manure,  in  order  to  secure  uniform  moisture  and 
favour  the  surface  roots. 
Trees  Started  at  the  New  Year. — Thin  the  fruit  to  a  few  more  than 
is  required  for  the  crop.  Avoid  sudden  checks  by  judicious  ventilation, 
cold  air  in  the  daytime  and  a  high  temperature  at  night  proving  fatal 
to  the  fruit  stoning.  A  night  temperature  of  60°  to  65°,  5°  less  on  cold 
nights,  and  65°  by  day  in  dull  weather,  with  70°  to  75°  from  sun  heat, 
is  quite  sufficient,  ventilating  from  65°. 
Work  in  the  Apiary. 
As  a  guide  to  other  bee-keepers  it  may  be  of  interest  to  state 
what  is  now  being  done  in  our  apiary.  It  is  a  recognised  fact  that 
to  be  successful  in  any  business  preparations  must  be  made  in 
advance  of  requirements.  We  are  therefore  doing  all  that  is  possible 
towards  the  desired  end.  At  present  we  are  overhauling  spare  hives. 
Those  that  require  it  are  repaired  and  made  thoroughly  sound,  as  an 
unsound  hive  often  means  the  loss  of  a  strong  colony  of  bees.  This 
must  be  guarded  against.  After  the  hives  are  repaired  they  should 
receive  at  least  two  coats  of  paint  made  from  the  best  white  lead. 
This  must  be  well  worked  into  all  the  crevices,  and  should  there  be 
any  small  cracks  in  the  wood  they  ought  to  be  filled  with  putty  after 
the  first  coat  of.  paint.  If  this  work  is  well  done  the  hive  will  with¬ 
stand  the  various  changes  in  the  weather  for  at  least  two  years. 
The  inside  of  hives  that  have  been  in  use  for  a  long  tinue  should 
also  receive  attention.  We  do  not  recommend  the  interior  to  be 
painted,  as  the  moisture  will  condense  on  the  sides  if  this  is  done. 
Our  usual  plan  is  to  use  a  new  hive  for  a  few  years  without  any 
dressing  whatever  inside.  But  at  this  season  when  from  various 
causes  we  have  several  old  hives  on  hand  after  being  treated  as  above, 
the  propolis  is  scraped  oli  the  sides  and  the  whole  of  the  interior 
receives  a  dressing  of  Stockholm  tar  and  carbolic  acid.  This  mixture 
must  be  put  on  hot,  and  the  plan  we  adopt  is  to  place  the  tar  in  an 
old  saucepan  over  a  clear  fire,  and  is  made  of  the  consistency  of  print  by 
adding  carbolic.  An  ordinary  paint  brush  is  used  for  applying^  ^e 
mixture,  which  should  be  well  worked  into  all  the  crevices,  rhis 
will  have  the  effect  of  destroying  any  germs  there  may  be,  and  will 
also  preserve  the  wood  and  sweeten  the  hive#  One  application  will  be 
sufficient.  If  the  fire  is  not  clear  and  bright  there  is  a  danger  of  the 
mixture  bursting  into  flame.  If  this  takes  place  the  saucepan  should  be 
immediately  placed  on  the  floor  and  it  the  back  of  a  shovel  is  put  on 
the  top  the  flames  will  be  overpowered  at  once. 
The  hives  should  be  placed  in  tht'  open  air  for  a  few  days,  and  the 
smell  will  soon  pass  off  ;  and  the  hives  will  be  ready  for  use  when 
required.  The  advantage  of  doing  them  at  this  season  is — they  will 
be  ready  for  the  early  swarms,  or  for  whatever  purpose  they  may  be 
required.  Some  hives  in  our  apiary  that  were  recently  treated  in  this 
manner  have  been  in  constant  use  for  nearly  twenty  years. 
Preparing  for  Another  Season. 
Preparations  should  now  be  made  for  the  coming  season.  Whether 
it  will  prove  good  or  bad  from  a  bee-keeper’s  point  of  view  remains  to 
be  seen,  but  we  must  prepare.  A  general  stocktaking  should  take 
place,  so  that  when  the  necessary  things  are  required  they  will  be 
ready  to  hand.  If  an  increase  of  stocks  is  contemplated  the  requisite 
hives  should  be  obtained,  either  by  making  them  on  the  lines  of  the 
approved  hive  at  present  in  use  in  the  npiary,  or  by  ordering  them 
from  some  wcll'koown  m&kor#  Tbeso  sboulti  bs  obtainod  impsiDtcd, 
It  will  then  be  possible  to  see  if  the  wood  is  of  good  quality.  The 
painting  may  afterwa  ds  be  done  at  home.  There  is  often  a  difficulty 
in  obtaining  goods  during  the  height  of  the  season,  when  manu¬ 
facturers  are  working  at  high  pressure.  Sections  may  be  obtained  m 
their  original  cases;  these  are  usually  imported  in  boxes  holding  500, 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
■  I  -  I  -  I  •  1  « 
