290 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
April  5,  1900. 
decorative  work.  JPeaches  do  well  upon  the  south  walls,  but  other 
aspects  do  not  serve  so  well  owing  to  their  exposure  to  the  high  winds, 
which  are  a  great  bane  to  the  gardener,  Mr.  W.  Brown.  Tomatoes, 
however,  grow  well  in  the  open,  aud  are  largely  cultivated.  A  reserve 
garden  serves  to  furnish  Carnations  and  various  sorts  of  herbaceous 
flowers  for  ornamentation  of  the  rooms  when  occasion  requires. — Visitor. 
["For  the  excellent  illustration  of  the  formal  garden  and  the 
conservatory  we  are  indebted  to  Messrs.  Foster  &  Pearson,  Ltd., 
Beeston,  from  whose  splendidly  produced  new  catalogue  it  was  taken.] 
- —<♦♦♦♦ - - 
Subtropical  Bedding, 
The  great  charm  of  gardening  lies  in  its  many  phases,  which 
provide  such  diverse  interests  to  those  who  have  the  “  gardening 
instinct.”  Some  enthusiasts  delight  in  growing  Cabbages,  others 
are  chiefly  interested  in  the  production  of  various  kinds  of  fruits,  and 
all  are  more  or  less  interested  in  the  flower  garden  and  shrubberies, 
which  lend  themselves  to  such  widely  different  styles  of  arrangement. 
Subtropical  bedding  provides  a  distinct  feiture  in  a  flower  garden, 
park,  or  even  in  the  amateur’s  limited  domain.  The  original  idea  in 
carrying  it  out  was  to  so  arrange  plants  of  told  or  graceful  foliage  as 
to  represent  tropical  vegetation. 
Many  of  the  plants  employed  for  the  purpose  are  natives  of 
tropical  countries,  and  can  therefore  only  be  employed  in  the  open  air 
during  the  hottest  part  c  f  the  year,  and  during  the  remainder  of  the 
year  they  take  up  much  valuable  space  under  glass.  There  are,  how¬ 
ever,  a  number  of  others  which  may  be  raised  from  seed  each  spring, 
and  if  planted  out  early  in  June  will  grow  into  fine  specimens  during 
the  summer,  and  when  the  autumn  frosts  despoil  them  of  their 
beauty  may  be  consigned  to  the  rubbish  heap.  A  few  plants  used  for 
the  subtropical  bedding  are  quite  hardy,  and  may  therefore  be  left  in 
their  position  permanently.  The  Pampas  Grasses,  Bamboos,  and 
Funkias  belong  to  the  latter  class.  I  will  now  deal  with  a  few  of  the 
most  suitable  plants  which  can  be  raised  from  seed,  and  will  refer 
to  their  arrangement  in  subsequent  notes. 
The  Castor  0.1  Plants  aie  unrivalled  for  the  purpose,  as  they  grow 
so  rapidly  and  are  always  admired.  Ttie  most  popular  variety  is 
Kicinus  Gibsoni,  which  produces  dark  purple  stems  and  leaves,  a 
colour  so  effective  when  seen  under  the  brilliant  light  of  summer 
time.  Eic'nus  roseus  magnificus  assumes  a  bushier  habit  of  growth 
than  the  former,  and  the  seed  vessels  being  of  a  beautiful  rose-pink 
colour,  form  an  additional  attraction.  Among  the  green-leaved 
varieties  E.  zanzibarensis  stands  out  as  a  veritable  giant.  In  habit  of 
growth  and  leafage  it  greatly  resembles  that  weli-known  greenhouse 
plant  Aralia  Sieboldi,  but  ihs  leaves  of  the  Eicinus  are  large,  often 
measuring  2  feet  across.  E.  zanzibarensis  maculatus  is  also  worth 
growing.  The  leaves  are  coppery-bronze  when  in  a  young  state, 
afterwards  changing  to  daik  green  with  reddish  ribs.  The  seeds 
should  be  sown  in  well-drained  pots,  and  be  covered  with  an  inch  of 
soil.  A  stove,  or  a  Irame  placed  over  a  hotbed,  are  excellent  positions 
in  which  to  raise  the  plants,  but  where  such  convenience  is  not  at 
command  they  may  be  raised  in  a  warm  greenhouse.  In  order  to 
facilitate  germination  steep  the  seeds  in  warm  water  for  a  few  hours 
before  sowing. 
The  fine  new  varieties  of  Cannas  now  so  popular  are  as  much,  if 
not  more,  noted  for  the  beauty  of  their  flowers  as  for  the  boldness  of 
their  leaves.  A  packet  of  mixed  seeds  will  often  give  some  variation 
of  sterling  merit.  The  directions  given  above  for  raising  Eicinus  are 
equally  suitable  for  Cannas,  but  the  latter  plants  will  not  grow  very 
large  during  the  first  Season,  and  should  be  lifted  early  in  October, 
stored  under  a  greenhouse  stage,  and  kept  dry  at  the  root  till  the 
following  February.  If  they  are  then  repotted  young  growth  will 
be  produced..  Very  little  water  will  be  needed  till  the  roots  become 
active,  then  the  supply  must  be  gradually  increased.  During  the 
summer  such  plants  make  fine  clumps  for  the  centre  of  a  flower  bed  or 
the  background  of  a  border.  Those  who  prefer  to  keep  them  in  p>ots 
should  give  them  a  light  position  in  the  greenhouse,  and  water  occa¬ 
sionally  with  liquid  manure;  they  will  then  prove  by'  no  means  the 
least  attractive  inmates  of  that  structure. 
The  Dracaena-leaved  Beet  (Beta  chiliensis)  is  quite  distinct  from 
the  edible  kinds,  and  the  broad  highly  coloured  leaves  make  it  worthy  of 
a  place  in  any  garden  or  shrubbery.  Sow  the  seeds  in  a  greenhouse  or 
frame  during  March,  or  in  the  open  air  at  any  time  throughout  April. 
Wigandia  caracasana  aud  W.  imperialis  are  rapid  growing  plants, 
which  in  one  season  attain  a  height  of  from  4  to  6  feet.  If  large 
plants  are  required,  sow  the  seed  at  once;  if  only  moderate  sized  ones, 
def.  r  the  sowing  till  the  end  of  April. 
The  striped  Japanese  Maize  (Zea  japonica  variegata)  is  an 
exceedingly  graceful  plant,  which  the  garden  artist  may  turn  to 
advantage  in  a  variety  of  ways.  A  well-grown  specimen  looks 
particularly  well  in  the  centre  of  a  flower  bed,  or  a  larger  bed  planted 
with  a  groundwork  of  Beet,  with  Zeas  disposed  3  feet  apart,  and  a- 
Dracaena  Veitchi  or  Chamaerops  humilis  as  a  central  plant  forms  a  very 
effective  combination.  After  being  soaked  in  water,  the  seeds  should 
be  sown  at  once.  I  like  to  set  them  in  boxes  an  inch  apart,  transfer 
to  3-inch  pots  when  the  young  plants  are  3  inches  in  height,  and  pot 
on  when  necessary. 
Nicotiana  affinis,  the  Sweet-scented  Tobacco  Plant,  which  has 
broad,  dark  green  leaves  and  tall  spikes  surmounted  by  white  flowers, 
is  often  employed  lor  subtropical  bedding.  If  seeds  are  sown  at  once 
in  a  warm  greenhouse  or  stove  good  plants  maybe  grown  by  June. 
Acacia  lophantha  and  Grevillea  robusta  are  greenhouse  shrubs  which 
have  elegantly  formed  leaves,  and  are  largely  employed  for  bedding  as 
well  as  for  decorative  work  in  pots.  In  order  to  get  plants  3  feet  in 
height  by  June  the  seed  ought  to  be  sown  in  September.  Any  old 
plants  now  at  command  if  repotted  and  well  attended  to  will  sure^o 
prove  useful  at  bedding  out  time,  no  matter  how  large  or  of  what 
shape  they  may  be.  Plants  5  or  6  feet  in  height  are  often  just  the 
things  required  to  form  a  background  or  a  prominent  object  in  the 
angle  of  a  bed  or  border. 
Perilla  nankinensis,  a  dark,  almost  black,  foliaged  annual,  is  very 
effective  when  used  for  massing.  It  grows  very  quickly,  and  attains 
a  height  of  2  feet.  Seeds  should  be  sown  on  a  hotbed  or  in  a  warm 
greenhouse.  Chamaepeuce  diacantha,  a  Thistle-like  plant,  having 
green  leaves  marked  with  silvery  lines,  is  excellent  for  filling  large  or 
small  beds.  Sow  the  seeds  at  once  in  a  warm  greenhouse. 
The  well  known  Blue  Gum  Tree  (Eucalyptus  globulus)  is  quite 
indispensable  for  subtropical  bedding,  as  it  attains  a  great  height,  and 
in  sheltered  position  in  the  south  of  England  will  withstand  the 
rigours  of  our  winters  for  years.  One-year-old  plants  should  be 
employed  for  planting,  and  olten  if  large  specimens  are  required  these 
can  be  petted  in  the  autumn  and  wintered  in  a  greenhouse  when 
grown  in  positions  where  it  is  not  safe  to  leave  them  in  the  open 
air. — H.  D. 
Melons. 
At  a  recent  meeting  of  the  Kingston  Gardeners’  Society,  Mr.  Turner 
of  Fulham  Palace  Gardens  gave  a  practical  paper  on  Melons.  The 
essayist  described  the  methods  of  culture  adopted  by  the  late  Mr. 
Gilbert  at  Burleigh  and  by  Mr.  Woods  at  Osberton  Hall.  The  best 
Melons,  in  his  opinion,  were  grown  in  low  span-roofed  houses  with  a 
6  feet  wide  bed  in  the  centre  with  a  pathway  around.  The  seeds  were 
sown  singly  in  small  uncrncked  pots,  and  afterwards  transferred  to 
6-inch  pots,  using  if  possible  loam  from  a  grazing  pasture.  A  fer. 
menting  bed  was  formed  upon  which  the  soil  was  made  very  firm 
and  the  plants  put  out  on  hillocks  3  feet  apart  on  each  side  of  the  bed 
and  trained  up  stakes  leaning  towards  the  pathway  and  the  sides  of  the 
house.  The  temperature  was  kept  at  about  70°,  and  air  admitted  above 
that  figure ;  no  shading  was  given  to  the  plants. 
Frequent  top-dressing  served  the  double  purpose  of  giving  fresh 
rooting  space  and  of  keeping  the  roots  from  going  down  into  the 
fermenting  bed,  which  is  detrimental  to  the  plants.  Early  flowers 
were  removed  until  sufficient  growth  had  been  made  to  insure  five  fruits 
set  at  one  time.  The  shoots  were  stopped  at  one  leaf  beyond  the  fruit. 
Stimulants  were  given  in  the  form  of  guano  dissolved  in  water.  Mr. 
Woods’  system  was  to  take  up  three  shoots  from  each  plant,  obtaining 
three  to  five  fruits  on  a  plant ;  other  details  were  similar  to  the  fore¬ 
going. 
Mr.  Turner  then  proceeded  to  point  out  that  Melons  could  be  grown 
in  boxes  in  any  plant  stove  without  the  aid  of  a  fermenting  bed.  Where 
there  is  no  space  for  a  hotbed,  and  where  for  some  reason  it  is  difficult 
to  make  the  ordinary  bed  of  soil,  boxes  will  be  found  convenient,  these 
being  2  feet  long  by  18  inches  wide,  and  10  or  12  inches  deep.  Boxes 
were  better  than  pots,  but  if  the  latter  were  used  they  should  be 
plunged  in  some  material ;  one  fruit  on  a  cordon  in  a  12 -inch  pot  was 
about  the  usual  practice.  This  does  not  apply  to  boxes  in  which  the 
plants  may  be  heavily  fruited. 
An  important  cultural  point  was  to  avoid  heavy  syringing,  as  this 
was  the  chief  cause  of  spot  and  canker,  and  for  the  latter  there  is  no 
known  cure,  although  lime  aud  charcoal  rubbed  into  the  affected  part 
will  arrest  the  progress  of  the  disease.  The  choice  of  varieties  was 
left  to  each  cultivator.-— J.  T.  Blencowe. 
- - ■  i  .  .  .  ■  ■ 
Vital  Energy. — Live  plants  are  plants  with  their  particles  in 
I  motion  building  up  the  plant’s  structure.  This  motion  is  known  as 
vital  energy.  Physical  energy  results  in  decomposition.  The  material 
out  of  which  plant  structure  is  formed  is  known  as  protoplasm.  The 
forms  of  flowers  result,  says  a  transatlantic  contemporary,  from  varying 
degrees  and  directions  of  vital  energy ;  but  what  starts  the  motion  in 
protoplasm,  and  so  directs  the  energy  that  a  little  cell  may  develop  in 
one  instance  to  an  Oak,  or  in  another  to  a  Buttercup,  has  not  been 
demonstrated.  We  speak  of  vital  force,  or  life  energy,  as  a  fact,  but 
no  one  has  yet  discovered  what  starts  the  movement. 
