296 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
April  5,  1900. 
.,»•*  Ail  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be 
directed  to  “The  Editor,”  12,  IVXltre  Court  Chambers 
Fleet  Street,  Xondon,  E.c.  It  is  requested  that  no  one 
will  write  privately  to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking 
information  on  matters  discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so 
subjects  them  to  unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  depart¬ 
mental  writers  are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they 
may  receive  on  Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post. 
If  information  be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any 
particular  authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made 
to  obtain  It  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accom¬ 
panied  by  the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will 
neither  be  published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  noms  de  flume 
are  given  for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only  ;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
Vine  in  a  Greenhouse  (E.  AT.). — You  will  find  your  question 
answered  in  the  form  of  an  article  on  page  292.  If  the  instructions 
given  therein  are  followed  the  results  are  praciically  sure  to  be  entirely 
satistactory. 
Grafting  Paradise  Stocks  ((?.  C.  A’.). — The  stocks  having  been 
planted  at  the  beginning  of  the  year  will  not  start  into  growth  so 
early  as  those  which  have  not  been  moved,  and  should  not  be  worked 
until  the  sap  flows  more  freely— say  at  the  end  of  this  month  or  early 
in  April.  It  may  be  done  when  the  buds  commence  breaking,  taking 
care  to  keep  the  scions  quite  dormant,  as  they  will  by  inserting  in 
damp  soil  or  sand  on  the  north  side  of  a  wall  or  fence.  Whip  grafting 
is  the  best  method  for  small  stocks,  and  it  can  be  practised  on  much 
smaller  stocks  than  crown  grafting.  The  grafts  should  be  inserted 
about  6  inches  from  the  soil,  as  it  is  necessarv  the  trees  have  a  clear 
stem  above  the  ground  to  derive  the  benefit  of 'the  stock.  Cover  the 
joint  with  grafting  wax  after  securing  the  scion  with  bast. 
Vines  Unsatisfactory  (Af.  A.). — The  specimens  of  leaves  and 
bunches  are  very  unsatisfactory,  the  former  being  small  and  thin  in 
texture,  though  quite  clean  and  healthy,  and  the  latter  are  stunted  and 
in  some  cases  shrivelled.  Of  Alicante  and  Gros  Colman  you  may 
secure  some  fruit  this  season,  but  of  Muscat  of  Alexandria  and  Madres- 
field  Court  the  prospects  are  extremely  uncertain.  The  cause  is  usually 
an  unsatisfactory  condition  at  the  roots,  not  in  your  case  at  present, 
as  the  borders  both  inside  and  outside  have  been  renovated,  but  to  the 
bad  state  in  the  previous  year.  The  renewal  of  the  inside  border  two 
years  ago  would  only  afi^ect  the  roots  there,  which  were,  no  doubt,  as 
coinmonly  happens,  few,  the  main  portion  of  them  being  in  the  outside 
border.  As  the  roots  have  not,  as  we  take  it,  been  active  in  the  new 
inside  border,  the  supplies  of  nourishment  have  been  mainly  furnished 
by  the  ou'side  one,  which,  in  an  unsatisfactory  state,  has  led  up  to 
the  present  condition  of  the  Vines.  Now  that  you  have  renewed  the 
outside,  we  consider  you  may  look  forward  to  next  year  with  confidence 
although  we  do  not  approve  of  adding  so  much  freshly  slaked  lime  as 
half  a  barrowload  to  ten  barrowloads  of  loam,  and  using  the  mixture  at 
once.  Had  the^  lime  been  air-slaked  the  case  would  probably  been 
different,  and  this  is  the  only  thing  in  which  you  have  acted,  if  at  all, 
wrongly.  The  other  ingredients  are  all  good.  We  should  maintain  a 
rather  high  and  somewhat  dry,  but  not  arid,  atmosphere  for  a  time, 
and  thus^ strive  to  draw  cut  the  bunches,  say  a  night  temperature  of 
'60°  to  65  ,  and  70  to  75°  by  day,  ventilating  moderately  from  the  latter 
figure,  and  running  up  to  85°  or  90°  fiom  sun  heat.  Encourage  the 
exteirsion  of  the  shoots,  these  being  allowed  to  extend  beyond  the 
bunches  after  the  first  stopping  of  the  bearing  growths  at  two  or  three 
joints  beyond  the  show  for  fruit  as  space  admits,  but  pinching  those 
below  the  bunches  to  one  joint,  and  the  sub-laterals  also  to  one  leaf  as 
made.  In  no  case,  however,  allow  growths  to  be  made  that  cannot 
have  full  exposure  to  light,  and  not  allowing  the  laterals  to  encroach 
on  the  free  exposure  of  the  principal  leaves.  With  these  matters  duly 
attended  to,  and  not  making  the  borders  too  wet  at  any  time,  especially 
after  the  growth  is  properly  developed,  well-ripened  wood  may  be  looked 
*oo  close  pruning,  a  satisfactory  condition  of 
the  Vines  and  Grapes  another  year. 
Hens  Eating  Lucerne  (Heathfield) . — Lucerne  is  not  in  any  way  bad 
for  fowls,  though  when  the  hens  have  been  penned  for  a  considerable 
time  and  fed  on  cereals — meal,  wheat,  barley,  and  maize — exclusively, 
they  naturally  are  extremely  eager  for  green  food.  In  such  case  the 
fowls  may  at  first  eat  more  than  is  apparently  good  for  them,  as  green 
food  in  excess  induces  looseness,  but  only  of  a  temporary  character, 
for  the  fowls  soon  return  to  a  judicious  proportion  of  the  greenstuff, 
having  overcome  the  craving  for  cooling  food  promoted  by  the  heating 
properties  of  the  hard  food — meal  and  grain. 
Cypripedium  hellatulum  (J.  C.  8.). — It  is  by  no  means  certain  that 
this  handsome  Orchid  would  flourish  in  an  ordinary  greenhouse.  The 
atmospheric  conditions  of  such  a  structure  are  usually  very  different 
from  those  that  prevail  in  cool  Orchid  houses.  Then  it  must  be  borne 
in  mind  that  Mr.  W.  H.  Young,  who  was  referred  to  on  page  261  as 
growing  this  Cypripedium  in  a  cool  structure,  is  one  of  the  most  expert 
Orchid  cultivators  we  have,  and  would  therefore  be  much  more  likely 
to  succeed  than  anyone  who  is  comparatively  inexperienced.  We  will 
endeavour  to  get  Mr.  Young’s  personal  opinion  for  you,  and  give  his 
reply  in  as  early  an  issue  as  possible. 
Climbing  French  Beans  (TV.  M.). — Undoubtedly  there  is  a  climbing 
French  Bean,  and  a  most  useful  plant  it  is.  It  may  be  briefly 
described  as  combining  the  cropping  properties  of  the  Scarlet 
Runner  with  the  tenderness  and  flavour  of  the  dwarf  French  Bean. 
We  do  not  quite  take  your  meaning  in  respect  of  “  prosaic  ”  mould.  If 
by  this  you  mean  poor  unworked  soil,  then  we  can  say  that  neither 
this  nor  any  other  Bean  will  flourish  successfully  in  it.  If,  on  the  other 
hand,  you  wish  to  convey  the  idea  of  an  ordinary  garden  soil,  thoroughly 
worked,  and  well  enriched  with  manure,  then  we  have  no  hesitation  in 
saying  that  the  climbing  French  Bean  will,  other  details  of  manage¬ 
ment  being  proper,  grow  and  crop  in  a  most  satisfactory  manner.  The 
height  to  which  the  plants  attain  varies  with  the  soil  and  season.  We 
have  seen  many  rows  only  4  feet  high,  and  several  as  tall  as  8  feet.  You 
might  take  6  feet  as  the  average.  Sutton’s  Tender  and  True  is  an 
excellent  variety.  Of  coarse  yon  will  understand  that  the  plant  partakes 
of  the  tenderness  of  Kidney  Beans,  and  must  therefore  not  be  sown 
early. 
Dendrobiums  after  Flowering  (TV.  Fahy). — Plants  that  have  flowered 
must  be  watered  with  great  care.  Injury  often  results  in  their  present 
stage  from  giving  them  too  much  water.  The  roots  of  many  are  still 
inactive,  and  if  they  are  kept  in  a  wet  state  numbers  are  certain  to 
perish.  The  reason  many  Dendrobiums  decline  in  health  after  the  first 
or  second  season  is  frequently  owing  to  keeping  them  in  a  saturated 
condition  as  soon  as  flowering  is  over  and  the  plants  commence  growing. 
They  need  little  water  at  first,  a  slight  dewing  with  the  syringe  being 
ample  in  a  moist  atmosphere  until  the  formation  of  new  roots.  As  the 
roots  and  growth  extend  the  supply  of  water  should  be  increased. 
Plants  would  last  longer  and  increase  in  strength  if  greater  care 
was  exercised  during  the  early  stages,  and  again  after  the  com¬ 
pletion  of  growth.  When  D.  nobile  starts  into  growth  it  often 
pushes  freely  from  the  pseudo-bulb.  If  these  are  not  wanted  for  stock 
they  should  be  removed,  for  they  have  a  tendency  to  rob  the  growths 
that  issue  from  the  base.  This  old  but  very  useful  Orchid  delights  in  a 
moist  atmosphere. 
Thunbergias  in  Boxes  {Tyro). — Thunbergias  would  succeed  well  if 
planted  out  in  a  well-drained  box  in  a  greenhouse.  8ow  the  seed 
thinly  in  a  well  drained  5-inch  pot  filled  with  equal  parts  of  leaf  soil  and 
loam,  with  a  good  sprinkling  of  silver  sand  ;  make  the  surface  level 
BOW  the  seed  thinly,  and  barely  cover  with  fine  soil.  Place  a  covering 
of  light,  damp  moss  on  the  surface,  which  will  counteract  the  drying 
of  the  surface.  Place  the  pot  under  a  close  hand-light  or  bell-glass 
in  the  greenhouse,  and  let  it  be  kept  shaded.  As  the  seedlings  appear 
lemove  the  moss,  and  ventilate  and  water  with  care.  After  the  seed¬ 
lings  are  large  enough  to  handle  pot  them  singly  in  2-inch  pots,  and 
when  established  in  these  repot  into  5-inch  pots.  The  soil  at  this 
lepotting  should  consist  of  three  parts  turfy  loam  to  one  each  of  leaf 
soil  and  well  pulverised  manure,  with  a  little  sand.  As  the  plants 
become  well  rooted  they  must  not  be  allowed  to  suffer  for  water,  and 
be  syringed  thoroughly  on  fine  afternoons  to  keep  down  red  spider, 
which  is  their  greatest  enemj’.  After  the  plants  become  well  esta¬ 
blished  plant  out  in  the  boxes. 
Preparing  Pasture  Land  (C.H.  R.]. — The  ground  should  be  trenched 
as  deeply  as  the  good  soil  will  allow,  but  do  not  bury  the  turf  more 
than  9  inches  deep,  and  do  not  bring  much  of  the  stiff,  stubborn  sub¬ 
soil  to  the  surface;  a  little  may  be  brought  up  and  the  other  loosened 
to  a  depth  of  a  foot  and  left  at  the  bottom.  The  ground  after  trenching 
should  have  a  good  dressing  of  decayed  stable  manure,  and  if  yon  can 
command  some  charred  refuse  it  wou'd  prove  a  most  excellent  dressing, 
as  also  would  ashes  and  mortar  rubbish  from  an  old  building,  spreading 
them  on  the  surface  evenly  and  forking  them  in,  but  not  so  deeply  as 
to  disturb  the  turf  and  bring  the  grassy  part  up,  as  they  would  no  doubt 
grow  and  give  considerable  trouble  through  the  summer.  We  should 
crop  the  ground  you  intended  planting  with  fruit  trees  with  Potatoes 
and  other  vegetables  that  will  be  off  by  autumn.  If  the  ground  is  then 
stirred  deeply  and  manured  it  will  be  in  good  condition  for  planting 
with  fruit  trees.  Without  a  sketch  of  the  ground  and  the  method  in 
which  you  propose  to  lay  it  out,  and  how  much  you  wish  to  devote  to 
each  crop,  we  could  not  advise  you  in  respect  of  what  to  plant. 
