April  19,  1900 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDEN LR 
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be  attended  to  while  they  are  in  flower.  This  concentrates  the  forces 
on  those  retained,  and  by  proper  attention  they  swell  to  a  large  size. 
With  the  shy  setters  thinning  should  be  deferred  until  the  properly 
fertilised  berries  can  be  distinguished  by  their  taking  the  lead  in 
swelling.  Follow  it  up  on  dull  days,  or  early  and  late  in  bright  weather. 
Remove  surplus  bunches,  under  rather  than  overcropping  the  Vines,  as 
too  heavy  cropping  is  fatal  to  colour  and  finish. 
Feeding. — When  the  Vines  are  in  full  leaf,  and  the  Grapes  swelling, 
they  require  abundant  supplies  of  nourishment.  This  may  be  given  in 
liquid  form,  but  it  is  not  by  any  means  the  safest  method,  as  an  over¬ 
dose  sometimes  destroys  the  young  fibrous  roots.  Shanking  also  often 
follows  filling  the  soil  with  organic  matter  held  in  suspension.  All  the 
advertised  fertilisers  are  excellent  and  handy.  It  is  best  to  give  the 
borders  a  thorough  supply  of  water,  then  supply  the  fertiliser,  and 
water  in  moderately.  By  this  procedure  there  is  no  fear  of  losing  any 
virtue  the  fertiliser  contains  ;  but  when  it  is  given  on  a  dry  border,  and 
followed  by  a  heavy  watering,  it  is  likely  to  be  worked  into  the 
drainage,  and  roots  be  encouraged  at  the  bottom  of  the  border  instead 
of  near  the  surface.  A  light  mulching  of  short  manure  will  be  of 
advantage  in  keeping  the  border  uniformly  moist. 
Late  Houses. — The  Vines  are  making  rapid  progress.  Disbud  and 
tie  out  the  growths  as  they  require  it.  Close  the  house  early  in  the 
afternoon  with  sun  heat,  and  maintain  plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture 
by  frequently  damping  the  houses  and  syringing  the  Vines  at  closing 
time,  but  not  after  the  bunches  show.  Late  Hamburghs  are  starting 
naturally,  and  need  only  a  little  fire  heat  to  exclude  frosts. 
Young  Vines. — It  will  be  necessary  to  afford  a  gentle  fire  heat  in 
cold  weather  to  keep  the  Vines  in  steady  progress,  otherwise  they  are 
best  allowed  to  start  naturally,  and  secure  a  short-jointed  growth  by 
free  ventilation.  Disbud,  leaving  the  hest  shoots  on  both  sides  of  the 
canes  and  alternately  at  about  18  inches  distance  apart.  The  canes 
will  have  been  depressed  so  as  to  cause  them  to  break  regularly  down 
to  the  basal  buds,  when  they  can  be  tied  in  position.  Crop  lightly,  one 
or  two  bunches  being  the  maximum  on  permanent  Vines.  Any  super¬ 
numeraries  planted  to  fruit  early,  and  afterwards  be  cut  out,  may  carry 
a  bunch  on  each  shoot ;  six  to  eight  bunches,  however,  are  as  many  as 
vigorous  Vines  can  bring  to  perfection,  and  fewer  should  be  left  on 
weakly  canes. 
Tlie  Kitclien  Garden. 
Dwarf  French  Beans.  —  The  later  sowings  of  these  under  glass 
succeed  better  in  boxes  than  pots,  not  suffering  so  much  from  dryness 
at  the  roots.  As  heated  pits  are  cleared  of  early  Potatoes  or  other 
crops,  they  may  well  be  planted  with  Dwarf  Beans.  Raise  stock  in 
4-inch  pots,  and  plant  out  of  these  in  rows  15  inches  or  rather  more 
apart.  While  the  cold  weather  lasts,  and  till  such  times  as  the  plants 
are  well  established  in  pits  or  frames,  keep  them  somewhat  close  and 
warm,  ventilating  more  freely  when  the  cropping  stage  is  reached. 
Broccoli. — If  midseason  and  late  Broccolis  are  sown  in  quantity 
much  before  the  end  of  April,  the  plants  are  liable  to  remain  in  the 
seed  beds  longer  than  is  good  for  them.  Sown  now  thinly  in  drills 
5  inches  apart,  abundance  of  sturdy  plants  should  be  available  by 
the  time  the  ground  is  ready  for  their  reception.  Plants  raised  under 
glass,  or  thickly  in  a  sheltered  position,  ought  to  be  pricked  out  in 
nursery  beds,  disposing  them  4  inches  asunder  each  way.  From  these 
they  should  be  eventually  transplanted  with  the  aid  of  a  trowel — not 
drawn  and  replanted  with  a  dibbler. 
Cauliflowers. — For  a  very  late  crop  sow  seed  of  Autumn  Giant  as 
advised  in  the  case  of  Broccoli.  Plants  of  early  and  main  crop  varieties 
that  were  either  raised  last  autumn  or  early  this  year  in  heat  ought 
to  be  large  enough  and  sufficiently  hardened  to  plant  out  finally.  Some 
of  the  earliest  may  well  be  planted  at  the  foot  of  a  south  wall,  and  the 
rest  either  on  a  warm  border  or  in  hand-lights.  All  should  be  planted 
firmly  in  rich  ground. 
Lettuces. — Plants  raised  early  and  pricked  into  frames  must  not  be 
kept  in  a  crowded  state.  After  hardening  transplant  to  the  open, 
moving  each  plant  with  a  little  ball  of  soil  about  the  roots,  and  replant 
in  rich  ground.  The  Cabbage  varieties  may  be  arranged  8  inches  apart 
in  rows  10  inches  apart,  and  the  Cos  varieties  2  inches  more  apart 
each  way.  Sow  seeds  if  possible  in  drills  where  the  bulk  of  the  plants 
are  to  develop  to  their  full  size. 
Onions.— Plants  raised  in  pans  and  boxes  have  made  poor  progress, 
but,  small  as  they  are,  all  ought  to  be  planted  out  before  dry,  hot 
weather  sets  in.  Those  that  are  somewhat  drawn  will  recover  most 
quickly  from  the  check  of  transplanting  if  the  tops  are  shortened  some¬ 
what.  Plant  in  freely  manured,  well  prepared  ground,  6  inches  apart, 
in  rows  12  inches  asunder.  This  work  should  be  done  carefully,  burying 
the  roots  one-half  inch  below  the  surface,  spreading  them  out  evenly, 
and  fixing  firmly.  Autumn  sown  Onions  may  also  be  transplanted, 
that  is  if  this  is  not  already  done,  treating  them  similarly  to  those  raised 
under  glass. 
Tomatoes.— Plants  that  are  being  prepared  for  the  open  ought  not  to 
be  left  in  the  seed  pans  long  enough  to  become  drawn  and  weakened, 
nor  should  any  early  raised  be  kept  in  small  pots  from  now  to  the  end 
of  May,  The  former  may  be  placed  singly  in  4-inch  pots,  sinking  them 
to  the  seed  leaves.  Return  to  moderately  warm  quarters  till  well 
rooted,  when  they  may  be  moved  into  frames.  Before  earlier  raised 
plants  become  badly  root -bound,  shift  them  into  5  inch  or  6-inch  pots, 
and  treat  as  advised  in  the  case  of  the  later  raised  plants. 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
■  I  ■ ,  I  - ,  ■  i . ,  ■ ,  ■  I  ■  .T  ■■  I  ■■  I  - 1  - 1  -  TV. 
Seasonable  Notes, 
Although  the  climatic  conditions  have  been  more  favourable 
during  the  past  fortnight,  it  has  not  been  ideal  bee  weather,  the  wind 
remaining  in  a  cold  quarter.  The  few  bright  days  experienced  have 
made  a  great  improvement  in  the  condition  of  the  stocks.  The  wind 
being  in  the  south  lor  forty-eight  hours  caused  the  temperature  to 
rise.  The  bees  took  long  flights,  which  have  proved  most  beneficial 
to  them.  Bee-keepers  have  thus  been  able  to  form  a  pretty  correct 
opinion  as  to  the  number  of  bees  in  the  various  colonies  without 
disturbing  the  combs.  Some  of  our  stocks  are  strong,  but  others  are 
indifferent.  Owing  to  the  late  spring  they  are  not  as  strong  as  usual 
at  this  season.  We  do  not,  however,  think  this  will  seriously  affect 
them,  as  all  vegetation  is  very  backward,  and  the  honey  flow  will 
probably  be  a  fortnight  later  than  usual. 
Bee-keepers  who  have  several  colonies  in  straw  skeps  should  study 
their  requirements,  and  not  allow  them  to  become  short  of  stores  ;  the 
bees  may  be  fed  with  thin  syrup.  If  a  piece  of  perforated  zinc  is 
placed  over  the  hole  on  the  top  of  the  skep,  a  bottle  feeder  may  be  used, 
which  will  prevent  an  escape  of  heat  from  the  brrod  nest.  If  there 
are  no  other  bees  kept  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood,  open  air 
feeding  may  be  practised.  A  great  quantity  of  syrup  is  not  required  at 
this  season.  The  plan  we  adopt  is  to  place  a  little  in  the  feeders  daily 
when  the  sun  is  shining,  and  it  will  then  be  carried  into  the  hives. 
The  disadvantage  of  open  air  feeding  is  the  strongest  stocks  take  the 
hulk,  whereas  in  many  instances  it  is  the  weak  colonies  which  require 
the  more  food. 
The  past  winter  has  proved  the  fact  that  straw  skeps  are  to  be 
recomn  ended  for  wintering  purposes.  We  invariably  keep  several 
stocks  in  skeps  for  early  swarms.  They  are,  however,  useless  to  the 
modern  bee-keeper  unless  the  swarms  are  obtained  as  early  as  possible. 
The  system  we  adopt  most  successfully  is  to  place  the  swarms  in 
frame  hives,  using  full  sheets  of  comb  foundation  ;  or,  if  we  have  them 
to  spare,  combs  that  were  used  the  previous  season  for  extricting.  If 
thi-i  is  done,  it  is  surprising  how  rapidly  the  bees  increase. 
After  Treatment  of  Swarms. 
If  a  strong  swarm  is  obtained  before  the  end  of  May  and  treated  as 
suggested,  a  hive  containing  ten  frames  will  be  filled  with  brood  in  less 
than  three  weeks,  and  if  the  weather  is  favourable  during  that  time 
they  will  require  little  attention  ;  but  should  it  be  dull  and  showery, 
which  is  often  the  case  at  that  season,  fieuing  must  be  resorted  to. 
Only  enough  syrup  should  be  given  for  daily  consumjttion,  a^  it  the  cells 
are  clogged  with  sjrup  the  queen  will  be  unab  e  to  fill  them  with 
brood,  which  will  cause  a  serious  loss  of  w  rkers  when  the  honey 
flow  comes.  Natural  swarms  always  work  much  more  freely  when 
treated  in  this  manner,  than  if  left  to  take  their  chance  in  an 
ordinary  hive. 
If  several  swarms  a  e  obtained  and  treated  as  above  they  may  be 
worked  on  the  same  lines  as  the  bees  winti  red  in  frame  hives.  If  honey 
in  sections  is  required  a  crate  containing  twenty-one  sections  may  be 
placed  in  the  hive  as  soon  as  it  is  crowded  with  bees.  If  extracted 
honey  is  preferred  the  steely s  can  be  treated  in  the  same  manner 
as  recommended  in  doubling  hives.  Shallow  frames  may  be  used. 
These  are  excellent  for  obtaining  a  good  sample  of  honey,  and  the  bees 
take  readily  to  them.  Combs  that  were  used  the  previous  year  are  to 
he  pirelerred  to  comb  loundation,  as  new  ones  are  liable  to  break 
down  whilst  the  honey  is  being  extracted  from  them. 
If  full-sized  combs  are  used  it  will  be  an  advantage  to  take  some 
combs  from  another  stock  to  strengthen  the  one  intended  for  honey 
production.  These  combs  should  be  placed  in  the  middle  ot  the 
surplus  chamber,  and  the  empty  combs  on  each  side,  as  the  greater 
the  number  of  bees  in  a  hive  so  will  the  honey  be  in  proportion. 
— An  English  Bee-keeper. 
- - - 
Gapdeners’  Charitable  and  Provident  Institutions 
The  Gaedeners’  Royal  Benevolent  Institution.  —  Secretary, 
Mr.  G.  J.  Ingram,  175,  Victoria  Street,  S.W. 
United  Horticultural  Benefit  and  Provident  Society. — Secretary, 
Mr.  W.  Collins,  9,  Martindale  Road,  Balham,  London,  S.W. 
Royal  Gardeners’  Orph.an  Fund. — Secretary,  Mr.  Brian  Wynne, 
8,  Danes  Inn,  Strand.  London,  W.C. 
