362 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
April  26.  1^^00. 
go  straight  to  the  place  selected  by  the  scouts,  often  a  mile  or  more 
away  from  the  original  hive. 
To  prevent  swarming,  sf  ace  should  always  be  provided  in  advance 
of  the  bees’  requirements.  Only  experience  will  enable  the  bee-keeper 
to  know  when  this  is  required.  Much  will  depend  on  the  age  of  the 
queen,  as  when  she  is  aged  and  not  able  to  fulfil  her  duties  the  bees 
will  often  swarm,  although  the  hive  may  not  be  half  filled.  When 
this  takes  place  it  will  be  found  that  several  queen  cells  have  been 
started  in  the  original  hive.  Some  of  the  young  queens  have  been 
sealed  over,  and  will  hatch  out  in  a  few  days.  If  the  swarm  with  the 
old  queen  is  placed  in  a  separate  hive  she  will  probably  lay  a  few  eggs, 
and  will  then  succumb.  The  bees  will  then  raise  another  queen,  but 
the  stock  will  be  weak  and  useless  for  that  season.  For  this  reason  we 
recommend  uniting  all  weak  stocks  at  this  season,  as  such  colonies 
have  usually  old  or  unfertile  queens. — An  English  Bee-keeper. 
Ail  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be 
directed  to  “The  Editor,”  12,  IVlltre  Court  Chambers, 
Fleet  Street,  Iiondon,  E.C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one 
will  write  privately  to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking 
information  on  matters  discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so 
subjects  them  to  unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  depart¬ 
mental  writers  are  not  expected  to  ^inswer  any  letters  they 
may  receive  on  Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post. 
If  informatioT'  be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any 
particular  authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made 
to  obtain  It  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accom¬ 
panied  by  the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will 
neither  be  published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  noms  de  'plume 
are  given  for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relatinj. 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  Insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only  ;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
Cypripedinm  bellatulum  (J  C.  S.). — On  page  345  you  will  find  an 
answer  to  yoiir  question  respecting  this  handsome  Orchid,  which  has 
been  kindly  provided  by  Mr.  W.  W.  H.  Young.  This,  we  trust,  will  be 
of  assistance  to  you  and  enable  you  to  succeed  with  Cypripedium 
bellat  ulum. 
Manure  from  Horses  Partly  Fed  on  Linseed  (E.  A.  B.). — If  the 
manure  from  horses  getting  linseed  with  their  food  does  not  contain  a 
large  proportion  of  the  latter,  or  to  such  an  extent  as  to  render  the 
manure  close  and  soapy,  it  would  not  be  spoiled  for  growing  Mushrooms. 
The  manure,  we  suspect,  contains  only  the  portions  of  linseed  matter 
given  occasionally  to  the  horses  as  “  mash,”  they  in  other  respects 
being  fed  on  oats  and  hay,  also  bedded  with  straw,  so  that  the  droppings 
will  be  of  a  re'atively  dry  nature,  a  certain  portion  of  litter  being 
collected  along  with  them.  Such  will  grow  Mushrooms,  other  conditions 
being  favourable.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  manure  be  of  a  soft  nature, 
due  to  “  mashing  ”  the  food,  it  may  answer  fairly  well  if  largely  admixed 
with  short  strawy  litter  ;  but,  as  a  rule,  such  material  is  inadvisable  for 
growing  Mushrooms. 
Suckers  on  Feacli  and  Nectarine  Trees  (Nemo). — The  specimens  are 
not  uncommon,  especially  on  light  soils,  innumerable  suckers  springing 
from  the  roots  in  some  cases,  the  cause  generally  being  a  peculiarity 
of  stock  in  particular  soil.  The  remedy  is  to  carefully  bare  the  roots 
in  the  autumn,  and  remove  the  suckers  close  to  their  origin  with  the 
main  roots.  During  growth  the  suckers  should  be  kept  in  check  as 
much  as  possible,  so  as  to  divert  the  sap  to  the  branches.  In  the  case 
of  light  soils  it  is  desirable  to  firm  the  soil  well,  or  even  add  stronger. 
As  the  trees  are  old  and  large  this  is  about  all  you  can  do,  otherwise 
lifting  is  advisable  so  as  to  get  at  all  the  roots  and  cut  off  the  suckers 
quite  close  to  them,  replanting  in  firmer  and  more  substantial  soil.  We 
do  not  think  the  roots  have  been  cut  with  a  spade,  though  this  is  bad 
practice,  and  often  causes  the  production  of  suckers.  The  suckers  are 
very  detrimental  to  the  health  of  the  trees. 
“Mimosa”  Flowering  Outdoors  (Miss). — The  spray  appears  to  be 
of  Acacia  lophantha,  but  much  sturdier  than  usually  seen  in  green¬ 
houses.  We  have  no  knowledge  of  this  species  thriving  in  the  open 
ground  in  England.  Perhaps  some  of  our  readers  will  favour  with 
their  experience. 
Phaius  Cooksonlee  (Young  Orchid  Grower). — It  is  pointed  out  to 
us  by  Mr.  Norman  C.  Cookson,  the  raiser  of  P.  Cooksonise,  that  the 
flower  you  sent,  and  which  we  described  as  a  “  poor  form  of  P.  Cook- 
soniso,”  is  much  more  likely  to  be  P.  Norman,  as  the  true  P.  Cooksonise 
does  not  flower  until  May. 
Leaves  of  vine  Shoots  Blackened  (R.  A.  C.). — The  leaves  are 
affected  by  what  is  known  as  “browning”  or  “  brunure,”  caused  by 
Plasmodiophora  vitis.  It  is  a  most  perplexing  affection,  being  confined 
to  the  young  undeveloped  leaves,  and  sometimes  detroying  the  points 
of  the  shoots.  It  has  been  attributed  to  a  deficiency  of  lime  in  the 
soil,  and  a  dressing  of  air-slaked  lime  has  been  attended  with  con¬ 
siderable  benefit.  We  have  also  found  dusting  over  the  foliage  with  it 
of  great  advantage.  Sometimes  the  blackening  occurs  without  any 
determinable  organism,  the  cause  being  ascribed  to  an  atmosphere  sur¬ 
charged  with  moisture  and  kept  somewhat  close  and  stagnant,  so  as  to 
injuriously  affect  the  young  foliage  and  induce  the  blackening.  This 
often  occurs  with  many  other  plants  as  well  as  Vines,  and  probably 
has  no  connection  with  “  browning  ”  as  caused  by  an  organism.  The  pre¬ 
vention  in  such  case  is  self-evident — namely,  the  admission  of  more  air, 
and  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere,  so  as  to  promote  evaporation 
and  healthy  development  of  the  young  growths. 
Leschenaultia  hiloba  major  (W.  Eahy). — This  plant  is  one  of  the 
many  that  are  nowadays  seldom  seen  in  gardens,  whence  they  have 
been  ousted  by  younger,  but  certainly  not"  more  beautiful,  favourites. 
Messrs.  W.  Balchin  &  Sons  of  Hassocks  Nurseries  usually  show 
a  splendidly  grown  collection  at  the  Temple  Show,  and  may,  or  may 
not,  do  so  again  this  year.  It  is  a  New  Holland  plant.  L.  formoea  is 
Fio.  101. — Leschenaultia  biloba  major. 
distinguished  by  the  brilliant  scarlet  hue  of  its  flowers,  but  L.  biloba 
and  the  variety  major  (fig.  101)  have  much  larger  flowers,  and  of  an 
exquisite  blue  tint  that  is  always  appreciated  because  it  is  so  scarce. 
The  plants  succeed  best  in  peat  ar  d  sand  with  abundant  drainage,  and 
they  require  the  temperature  of  a  greenhouse.  The  greatest  care  is 
needed  in  supplying  the  plants  with  wafer,  and  they  should  have  a 
position  on  a  shelf  close  to  the  glass,  free  expoture  to  light  being 
important.  Our  illustration  fails  to  do  justice  to  this  plant. 
Bullfinches  and  Sparrows  Destroying  Fruit  Buds  (H.  T.  F.). — ^We 
can  sympathise  with  you,  as  for  many  years  we  had  to  wage  a  war 
yearly  against  the  bullfinches,  and  found  the  most  effective  means  for 
the  Plum  and  Pear  trees  was  trapping  in  the  autumn  and  early 
winter,  and  in  late  winter  and  spring  having  recourse  to  the  gun.  The 
Gooseberry  and  Currant  quarters  were  dressed  with  hot  lime  wash,  the 
