May  3,  IHOO. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTIGULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER.  38S 
day,  and  80°  to  85°,  or  90°  with  sun  heat,  always  with  a  circulaMon  of 
air.  The  points  of  the  bunches  should  be  kept  well  up  to  the  light. 
When  the  cups  of  the  flowers  are  being  cast  off  it  is  advisable  to 
rap  the  bunches  lightly,  better  still  to  gently  go  over  each  with  a 
camel’s-hair  brush,  and  follow  soon  afterwards,  or  when  the  caps  are 
off,  with  another  brush  loaded  with  pollen  taken  from  free-setting 
varieties,  such  as  Alicante  and  Black  Hamburgh.  The  influence  of 
foreign  pollen  is  far  more  potent,  and  secures  finer  berries  than 
impregnation  of  a  variety  of  Grape  or  other  fruit  with  its  own  pollen, 
which  is  often  inert. 
Succession  Houses. — Follow  up  thinning  the  bunches  and  berries, 
also  tying,  disbudding,  stopping,  and  regulating  the  growths.  Allow 
crops  proportionate  to  the  vigour  of  the  Vines,  and  retain  as  much 
foliage  as  can  have  full  exposure  to  light.  Examine  the  borders  at  least 
once  weekly,  and  when  dry  water  freely,  assisting  those  in  full  foliage 
and  carrying  heavy  crops  with  tepid  liquid  manure  and  surface  mulch¬ 
ings  of  rich  material.  In  addition  to  this  some  fertiliser  should  be 
used. 
Outside  borders  will  not  require  any  water  unless  there  be  a 
deficiency  of  moisture,  then  supply  it  liberally,  and  to  encourage 
Surface  roots  top-dress  with  some  fertiliser,  also  mulch  lightly  if  the 
border  has  not  a  good  tilth  of  fine  surface  soil  so  as  to  retain  moisture. 
Ventilate  early,  it  causes  accumulated  moisture  to  disperse,  gives 
texture  to  the  foliage  and  firmness  to  the  wood.  Allow  a  high  day 
temperature  from  sun  heat,  closing  early,  alike  to  push  ahead  the  crop 
and  to  store  the  sun-warmed  atmosphere.  At  night  a  rather  low 
(60°  to  65°)  temperature  is  best,  especially  for  Vines  carrying  heavy 
crops. 
Late  Houses. — Disbudding,  also  tying  and  stopping  the  growths, 
must  be  attended  to  as  they  become  sufficiently  advanced.  The  bright 
weather  has  given  the  foliage  a  remarkably  healthy  blue  colour.  Every 
advantage  should  be  taken  of  sun  heat  to  increase  the  ventilation  early 
in  the  day,  and  of  closing  early  in  the  afternoon,  as  a  means  of  securing 
a  long  day’s  work,  and  of  vigour  and  health  in  the  Vines,  dispensing 
with  fire  heat  as  much  as  possible,  yet  employing  enough  to  keep  the 
Vines  in  steady  progress.  Make  a  selection  of  the  bunches  that  are  to 
remain  for  the  crop,  large  bunches,  especially  loose,  being  the  worst  for 
finish,  and  the  medium-sized  and  compact  the  best.  Crop  lightly 
rather  than  heavily,  and  apportion  the  crop  to  the  vigour  and  variety 
of  Vine. 
Late  Hamburghs. — Disbud,  tie  down,  and  regulate  the  growths,  not 
leaving  more  than  can  have  space  for  the  full  expansion  of  the  foliage. 
In  stopping  allow  two  at  least,  preferably  four,  joints  of  growth 
beyond  the  stem  for  show  of  fruit,  and  pinch  the  laterals  below  to  one 
joint  as  made,  but  above  the  bunch  allow  them  to  extend,  so  as  to 
insure  an  even  covering  of  the  space  with  foliage  that  can  have  full 
exposure ;  afterwards  keep  them  pinched  to  one  leaf  as  growth  is 
made.  Where  the  space  is  restricted  closer  stopping  may  be  practised, 
not  allowing  the  laterals  to  interfere  with  the  principal  leaves. 
Ventilate  early  and  freely,  so  as  to  insure  short -j'unted  wood  and  stout 
foliage.  Avoid  a  saturated  condition  of  the  atmosphere,  yet  a  genial 
state  must  be  provided  by  syringing  the  borders,  walls,  and  paths  in 
the  morning  and  at  closing  time,  and  secure  proper  moisture  in  the 
borders.  A  sprinkling  of  some  approved  fertiliser  after  each  watering 
will  be  found  advantageous. 
Tlje  Kitclien  Garden. 
Beans. — Where  Broad  Beans  are  in  demand  till  comparatively  late 
in  the  season  another  two  or  three  sowings  may  yet  be  made.  Give  the 
preference  to  the  true  broad  podded  section,  notably  the  Green  Windsor, 
and  sow  on  rich  cool  ground.  Broad  Beans  transplant  readily,  and  if 
from  any  cause  the  early  rows  present  a  somewhat  patchy  appearance, 
one  good  row  may  be  formed  out  of  two  poor  ones  by  carefully  lifting 
and  replanting. 
Eunner  Beans  may  now  be  sown  in  the  warmer  localities,  but  it  is 
yet  a  little  too  early  to  sow  seed  in  low-lying,  damp  positions.  If  the 
seed  is  sown  in  double  drills  12  inches  apart,  and  it  is  intended  to  use 
tall  stakes  to  cross  over  the  rows,  these  double  rows  may  well  be 
disposed  8  feet  apart,  with  three  rows  of  early  Potatoes  or  Cauliflowers 
between  them.  Single  lines  of  Beans  that  are  to  have  6  feet  stakes 
may  be  disposed  6  feet  apart,  and  have  two  rows  of  Potatoes,  Cauli¬ 
flowers,  or  Cabbages  between  them.  Where  it  is  intended  to  dispense 
with  stakes  altogether,  the  plants  being  kept  closely  topped  market 
growers’  fashion,  the  rows  may  be  disposed  3  feet  apart  with  one  row 
of  Potatoes  or  other  quick  maturing  crop  between.  In  each  case 
avoid  sowing  too  thickly,  crowded  Bean  plants  failing  to  bear  pods  so 
continuously  as  desirable.  If  extra  early  Hunner  Beans  are  wanted, 
raise  the  requisite  number  of  plants  singly  in  3-inch  or  slightly  larger 
pots  under  glass,  hardening  and  planting  out  before  they  become  much 
root-bound,  and  protecting  with  mats  or  canvas. 
Celery  'Trenches. — According,  as  the  ground  is  cleared  of  Broccoli, 
Borecole,  Brussels  Sprouts,  and  the  like,  good  opportunities  are  offered 
for  getting  the  Celery  trenches  prepared.  Preparing  the  trenches  is 
desirable  for  several  reasons.  If  delayed  till  near  planting  time  the 
ground  is  usually  drier,  harder,  and  much  more  difficult  to  get  into  a 
condition  suitable  for  the  reception  of  the  plants.  Early  preparation 
also  admits  of  the  spaces  between  the  trenches  being  most  profitably 
cropped  with  Kidney  Beans  and  Lettuces.  Trenches  to  hold  a  single 
row  of  plants  may  be  15  inches  wide  with  3  feet  or  4  feet  spaces 
between,  while  for  double  rows  of  plants  a  width  of  18  inches  is  none 
too  much,  the  spaces  between  being  not  lees  than  4  feet.  The  best  of 
the  top  spit  only  should  be  thrown  out  of  the  trenches  and  disposed 
evenly  on  each  side,  as  very  deep  trenches  are  a  mistake.  In  the 
bottom  of  the  trench  dispose  6  inches  of  good,  partially  decayed,  manure, 
mixiner  it  somewhat  with  the  soil  by  means  of  a  fork. 
Eidge  Cucumbers. — If  only  a  few  plants  of  these  are  grown  they 
may  be  raised  singly  in  3-inoh  pots  in  gentle  heat,  hardening  and 
planting  out  on  prepared  ridges  towards  the  end  of  May.  Too  often 
the  plants  are  raised  long  before  the  proper  time  for  planting  out  has 
arrived,  with  the  consequence  that  a  very  bad  start  is  made.  Stunted 
yellow  plants  had  better  be  thrown  away  and  more  seed  be  sown,  the 
first  fortnight  in  May  being  quite  early  enough  to  sow  if  little  or  no 
protection  can  be  afforded  the  plants  when  turned  Out. 
Vegetable  Marrows. — Much  that  has  been  advanced  concerning 
ridge  Cucumbers  also  applies  to  Vegetable  Marrows.  If  an  early 
crop  is  desired  a  mild  hotbed  should  be  prepared  at  once,  if  not  already 
done,  on  this  disposing  hand-lights,  or  better  still  frames.  Plant 
directly  the  mound  of  loamy  soil  placed  for  the  plants  is  warmed 
through,  and  keep  them  under  cover  till  such  time  as  they  need  much 
more  space  to  ramble  over.  The  bush  varieties  are  usually  the  first 
to  produce  crops,  a,ud  these  are  well  adapted  for  frame  culture,  also  for 
interspersing  among  the  running  varieties  in  the  open. 
Spinach. — During  the  hottest  part  of  the  summer  Spinach  is  seldom 
obtainable.  It  can  be  had  moderately  late  by  sowing  the  Victoria  or 
Longstanding  on  a  cool  well-enriched  border,  and  a  fairly  good 
substitute  may  be  found  in  the  so-called  New  Zealand  Spinach.  A 
dozen  or  so  plants  of  the  tatter  will  meet  the  demands  of  most  establish- 
ments.  Eaise  these  now  in  heat,  and  early  in  June  plant  out  of  3-inch 
pots  on  a  sunny  border  singly  3  feet  apart  each  way.  They  will 
rapidly  attain  to  a  great  size,  the  short  tops  being  gathered  and  cooked. 
Spinach  Beet. —  In  many  gardens  considerable  difficulty  is  often 
experienced  in  providing  abundance  of  Spinach  during  the  winter  and 
early  spring  months.  A  substitute  is  available  in  the  form  of  large 
Spinach-like  leaves  produced  by  Spinach  Beet.  The  seed  of  this  should 
be  sown  at  once  in  drills  12  inches  apart,  thinning  the  plants  to  about 
6  inches  asunder.  Frosts  rarely  if  ever  destroy  this  Beet,  and  the  roots 
produce  a  profusion  of  leaves  which  good  cooks  can  render  fit  for  the 
table,  serving  similar  to  true  Spinach. 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
■  I  - 1  - 1  ■ 
■  r  - 1  - 1  -  r.-n 
The  Weather. 
Three  successive  bright  sunny  days,  with  a  shade  temperature 
ranging  from  70°  to  80°,  have  t  ad  a  beneficial  effect  on  the  bees. 
Strong  CO  onieshave  inc  eased  rapidly,  and  s  ocks  that  were  considered 
weak  have  now  several  frames  well  filled  with  brood.  The  effect  on 
vegetati  n  is  most  marked.  A  week  ago  the  pastures  were  brown  and 
the  trees  bare,  and  w.th  the  exception  of  the  early  spring  flowers  few 
blossoms  were  visible  ;  but  now  all  this  is  changed,  the  pastures  are 
green,  but  studded  with  thousands  of  flower  ;  Plums,  Almonds, 
Gooseberries,  and  Currants  are  wreathed  with  their  fast-opening 
blossoms,  and  in  a  few  days  there  will  be  a  wealth  of  bloom  on  the 
Apples  and  Pears.  Already,  however,  there  is  a  change  in  the 
w'eather,  the  temperature  is  lower  and  rain  threatens ;  a  few  warm 
showers  would  do  a  greit  amount  of  good. 
Bee-keepers  must  be  on  the  alert  and  not  allow  their  bees  to  suffer 
from  lack  of  stores.  Pollen  has  been  carried  in  freely,  and  breeding 
has  been  going  on  a  rapid  rate ;  but  should  dull  weather  ensue  for  a 
few  days  breeding  will  cease,  as  the  queen  will  discontinue  laying  if 
the  food  supply  is  restricted.  It  is  false  economy  to  leave  the  bees  to 
chance  at  this  season  and  failure  is  much  more  likely  to  take  place 
after  a  short  spell  of  hot  weather  than  if  the  weather  had  remained 
dull  and  cold.  Feeding  should  be  continued  as  advised  in  previous 
notes,  and  the  bees  must  not  be  disturbed  more  than  necessary.  We 
still  continue  open  air  feeding,  and  find  it  a  success.  Although  the 
weather  may  be  dull  it  is  not  often  at  this  season  that  the  temperature 
is  so  low  dur  ng  the  middle  of  the  day  but  that  some  of  the  workers 
are  able  to  leave  their  hive.  If  they  have  been  regularly  fed  in  the 
open  they  at  once  iro  to  the  feeders  and  take  the  warm  syrup  that  has 
been  provided  for  them. 
Spring  Dwindling, 
In  the  beat  managed  apiaries  spring  dwindling  will  sometimes 
take  place.  But  it  is  the  bee-keepers  who  leave  their  bees  to  take 
their  chance  who  suffer  most.  It  will  arise  from  a  variety  of  causes. 
Dampness  in  the  hives,  insufficient  coverings,  shortness  of  stores,  and 
late  feeding  the  previous  autumn  will  cause  it.  The  cure  is  a  warm 
dry  hive;  t'  e  bees  should  be  restricted  to  just  as  many  combs  as  they 
can  well  cover.  This  is  done  by  drawing  the  division  board  close  up 
