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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
May  10,  1900. 
growths  of  the  Dendrobes,  and  perfectly  healthy  foliage  of  other  kinds, 
led  me  to  inquire  of  Mr.  Liney  to  what  special  details  of  culture  he 
attributed  his  success.  He  was  very  emphatic  in  his  reply,  the  sub¬ 
stance  of  which  may  be  put  in  a  few  words.  During  the  growing 
season  the  Dendrobes  were  constantly  surrounded  by  a '  moist  atmo¬ 
sphere,  a  natural  kind  of  moisture,  promoted  by  employing  gravel  to 
cover  the  walks  and  stages.  The  temperature  of  the  house  was 
never  at  that  stage  allowed  to  fall  below  60°,  the  usual  night  tem¬ 
perature  being  from  60°  to  65°,  with  a  rise  of  5°  by  lire  heat  in  the 
daytime  during  dull  weather. 
After  ti  e  growth  was  completed  and  hardened,  a  long  and  thorough 
rest  was  given,  the  plants  being  placed  in  a  vinery  during  the  autumn, 
and  left  there  till  the  flower  buds  were  well  advanced,  because  if 
taken  into  heat  at  an  earlier  stage,  young  growths  would  start  and 
check  the  flowers.  The  whole  collection  of  Orchids  under  Mr.  Liney’s 
charge  reflects  the  greatest  credit  upon  all  connected  with  it,  and 
amply  demonstrates  that  the  individual  plants  received  constant 
attention  of  the  right  skilful  kind. — Yisitok. 
- - 
Notes  on  Potato  Culture. 
There  can  be  no  excuse  nowadays  for  growing  inferior  varieties  of 
Potatoes,  as  new  and  at  times  improved  sorts  are  freely  distributed. 
The  question  of  soil  has,  however,  much  to  do  with  the  cooking 
qualities,  and  it  is  folly  to  condemn  certain  varieties  without  a  trial, 
because  what  is  good  in  one  locality  may  be  quite  worthless  in  another. 
The  point  'is  to  test  several  and  adhere  to  those  that  are  a  success, 
changing  the  seed  every  second  year.  Some  varieties,  although  pro¬ 
digious  croppers,  are  not  of  good  flavour,  and  quality  in  such  an 
important  article  of  food  should  be  the  first  consideration.  White 
skinned  tubers  are  more  generally  grown  than  those  that  are  purple 
or  red  skinned,  and  as  a  rule  are  of  higher  quality.  There  are,  of 
course,  exceptions  to  this.  For  instance.  Beauty  of  Hebron,  a  red 
skinned  variety,  if  not  superior  is  quite  equal  in  point  of  quality  with 
tht  white  Beauty  of  Hebron.  There  is  no  Potato  that  possesses  higher 
quality  than  the  latter.  If  I  were  compelled  to  grow  only  one  sort  it 
would  be  this,  as  tubers  from  it  cook  well  when  dug  in  August,  and 
equally  well  the  following  April.  Unfortunately  it  is  a  rather  shy 
cropper. 
There  are  mistakes  made  in  Potato  culture,  and  the  most  serious  is 
that  of  not  allowing  sufficient  space  between  the  sets  for  the  haulm  to 
develop  without  crowding.  Weak  growth  results  from  this,  the  leaves 
cannot  mature  owing  to  a  want  of  light  and  air,  and  a  quantity  of 
immature  tubers  deficient  in  all  essential  points  are  the  outcome.  It 
is  thought  that  by  planting  thickly  a  piece  of  ground  will  produce  a 
greater  weight  of  tubers.  This  is  decidedly  erroneous.  Another 
mistake  made,  and  it  is  also  a  common  one,  is  in  the  preparation  of 
the  seed,  or  “sets.”  Too  often  they  are  kept  in  a  big  heap  until 
required,  with  the  result  that  the  shoots  are  6  inches  long,  weak  and 
useless  for  any  purpose.  The  best  form  of  sets  are  those  about  2  ozs. 
in  weight,  with  shoots  §  to  1  inch  long,  stocky,  and  of  a  dark  colour, 
and  the  sets  should  not  have  more  than  two  growths,  in  fact  one  strong 
one  is  sufficient  For  ordinary  garden  culture  the  sets  should  be.  placed 
on  end  in  a  cool  light  room  for  about  a  month  before  they  are  required 
for  planting.  The  planting  will  be  done  successionally  from  tbe  middle 
of  March  to  the  end  of  April,  when  the  main  crop  should  be  got  in. 
The  subject  of  cutting  the  sets  previous  to  planting  has  caused  much 
difference  of  opinion.  Personally  I  do  not  think  it  matters  whether 
they  are  cut  or  not. 
The  Potato  likes  a  tolerably  rich  soil,  but  the  addition  of  manure  at 
planting  time  requires  some  forethought.  When  the  soil  is  heavy  and 
retentive  of  moisture  the  manure  should  be  applied  in  the  autumn,  as 
over-luxuriance  of  growth  predisposes  to  disease.  Light  land  may 
safely  be  manured  at  planting  time.  Speaking  of  field  Potato  culture 
generally,  I  prefer  artificial  to  farmyard  manure  ;  it  is  more  easily 
applied,  and  is  certainly  successful.  As  an  instance  of  the  use  of 
such  manures,  I  have  during  the  last  three  years  grown  Potatoes  on 
the  same  land  with  the  aid  of  Webbs’  manure  only,  and  with  success. 
In  the  case  of  heavy  soil,  where  the  manure  is  applied  in  the  autumn 
the  surface  should  be  left  in  as  rough  a  state  as  possible,  so  that 
frosts  can  act  readily  upon  it. 
In  any  kind  of  soil  I  prefer  to  dig  the  land  and  plant  at  the  same 
time,  as  the  soil  is  then  left  light  and  free  for  the  roots  to  work  in.  In 
the  case  of  heavy  soil  where  the  manure  has  been  dug-in,  in  the 
autumn  I  chop  out  with  a  spade  a  furrow  6  inches  deep,  sprinkling 
along  the  bottom  of  it  a  2-inch  layer  of  decayed  vegetable  refuse,  wood 
ashes,  and  old  potting  soil.  This  prevents  in  a  great  measure  the 
scabbiness  too  often  noticed  in  Potatoes  grown  on  heavy  soils,  especially 
in  a  wet  season.  Early  varieties  of  the  Ashleaf  type  may  be  planted 
10  inches  apart  in  rows  22  inches  wide.  The  second  crop,  of  which 
Satisfaction  and  Supreme  are  representative  varieties,  should  not  be 
less  than  13  inches  apart  in  rows  2  feet  3  inches  asunder.  Late 
varieties  like  Windsor  Castle,  Up-to-Date,  or  Triumph  should  have 
fully  a  yard  of  space  between  the  rows,  and  not  less  than  18  inches  in 
the  rows.  The  question  of  variety  is  largely  a  matter  of  opinion  and- 
individual  taste.  In  addition  to  those  already  named.  Ringleader, 
Sutton’s  Ninetyfold,  and  A1  ought  not  to  be  forgotten  amongst  the- 
early  sorts ;  while  Supreme,  Reliance,  and  Flourball  might  safely  be 
added.— E.  Molyneux. 
Useful  Uerbs. 
Mint. 
The  ordinary  garden  or  Spearmint  is  in  much  demand  in  spring  and 
early  summer.  It  is  often  required  earlier  than  shoots  are  produced 
outdoors,  and  when  this  is  the  case  a  good  breadth  of  roots  ought  to  be 
available,  so  that  a  portion  may  be  lifted  and  transferred  to  boxes  or  pots 
for  standing  in  a  warm  house  or  frame,  where  stems  will  soon  commence 
growth.  When  well  started  transfer  to  a  cooler  position.  If  kept 
moist  growth  will  continue  to  be  produced,  using  the  longest  and 
stoutest  shoots  first.  If  not  too  greatly  weakened  by  close  cutting  the 
roots  may  be  replanted,  but  if  better  material  is  available  discard  roots 
which  have  been  forced. 
Where  there  is  much  demand  for  Mint  a  new  bed  should  be  formed 
each  year.  The  present  is  a  suitable  period  to  carry  out  the  work^ 
as  an  abundance  of  stout  young  growths  may  be  found,  which  can  be 
planted  and  depended  upon  to  grow  well.  Each  shoot  can  be  lifted, 
and  have  a  considerable  portion  of  its  underground  stem  attached.  An 
open  position  and  fairly  well  worked  soil  ought  to  be  selected  for  the 
growth  of  Mint.  Cut  a  trench  out  with  the  spade  and  carefully  lay  in 
about  6  inches  apart  the  most  suitable  growths  which  can  be  found. 
Fill  in  soil  over  them,  make  firm,  and  level.  They  ought  not,  unless  the 
ground  is  very  dry,  to  require  water,  but  if  planted  in  sunny  weather 
give  a  supply  before  filling  in  the  last  soil.  Plant  in  rows  6  or  8  inches 
apart.  It  is  not  desirable  to  pick  the  growth  from  this  last  bed  the 
first  season.  If  the  demand  is  not  great  annua!  planting  may  not  be 
necessary,  once  in  three  years  sufficing.  The  roots  extend  in  the  soil 
in  the  course  of  a  season,  often  beyond  the  boundary  of  the  bed.  These 
outside  growths  will  be  found  the  best  for  planting. 
Parsley. 
Parsley  is  in  demand  the  year  round,  and  some  difficulty  is  frequently 
found  in  maintaining  a  liberal  supply  during  winter  and  early  spring  if 
protection  is  not  afforded,  which  is  best  given  by  the  aid  of  a  frame, 
though  coddling  the  plants  should  not  be  adopted.  Place  a  frame  over 
a  bed  before  severe  winter  weather  sets  in,  but  give  abundance  of  air  and 
exposure  whenever  possible.  Protection  is  needed  only  against  damp 
and  frost.  Two  sowings  of  Parsley  are  usually  sufficient  for  most 
gardens.  One  sowing  should  be  made  in  spring,  the  other  early  in 
August.  The  first  sowing  carries  on  the  supply  through  the  summer, 
autumn,  and  winter,  and  the  last  comes  into  use  the  following  spring, 
remaining  profitable  throughout  the  year.  Parsley  ought  to  be  sown  in 
drills  4  to  6  inches  apart  on  good  rich  loamy  soil,  so  that  the  growth  is 
vigorous.  By  sowing  in  drills  the  plants  are  readily  thinned  out.  This 
may  be  done  gradually.  The  more  space  the  seedlings  have  the  better 
they  will  grow  and  develop  into  fine  bushy  plants.  The  late  summer 
sowing  does  not  produce  very  large  plants,  but  they  are  of  a  character 
which  are  likely  to  resist  damp  better  than  those  with  dense  foliage. 
Unless  absolutely  necessary  they  should  not  be  protected,  as  the  plants 
are  mostly  too  small  for  picking  from;  nor  should  it  be  necessary  to 
do  so  with  larger  plants  established  earlier  in  the  season.  A  few  plants 
might  be  established  in  pots  in  autumn,  and  stood  in  a  cool  house  on 
the  approach  of  bad  weather.  This  stock  will  probably  come  in  useful 
during  the  course  of  the  winter,  all  that  is  required  being  that  the  soil 
should  be  kept  moist,  and  the  plants  have  plenty  of  light,  picking  off 
yellow  leaves  if  they  appear.  A  good  strain  of  curled  Parsley  is  the 
best  for  ordinary  purposes,  as  handsome  and  ornamental  leaves  can 
always  be  found. 
Sage. 
Sage  is  an  indispensable  herb  in  every  garden.  It  is  a  hardy 
perennial,  and  exists  for  several  years  as  a  bushy  shrub.  It  is  readily 
propagated  from  young  growths  taken  off  the  old  plants  at  this  season, 
inserted  in  sandy  soil,  kept  moist,  and  shaded  until  rooted.  Sage  is 
also  easily  increased  from  seeds,  sowing  now  in  shallow  drills  about 
6  inches  apart,  and  thinning  out  the  seedlings  to  the  same  distance. 
Take  the  tops  out  of  the  small  plants,  to  induce  them  to  form  bushy 
plants.  After  the  first  season  the  plants  will  flower  annually.  These 
should  be  nipped  out  before  they  open,  as  their  development  tends  to 
exhaust  the  plants. 
Thyme. 
Common  Thyme  and  Lemon  Thyme  are  cultivated  in  all  gardens,  as 
the  smallest  selection  of  herbs  would  not  be  complete  without  them. 
Propagation  is  effected  by  seed  and  divisions  of  the  old  plants.  Sow 
seeds  in  shallow  drills  4  to  6  inches  apart,  and  thin  out  the  plants  as 
they  touch  each  other.  When  they  become  bushy  tufts,  lift  and 
replant  6  inches  apart  in  rows  a  foot  asunder.  Division  is  effected 
before  active  growth  commences,  making  moderate  sized  tufts,  with 
roots  attached.  Water  in  dry  weather,  keeping  the  soil  free  from 
weeds. — E.  Barrow. 
