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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
May  17,  1900. 
A  Cliat  About  Fern  Raising. 
The  proi^agation  of  Ferns  by  means  of  seeds  or  spores  has,  in 
great  commercial  establishments,  now  reached  the  dimensions  of  an 
important  industry.  Millions  are  raised  and  sold  annually  in  tiny 
pots,  in  addition  to  the  vast  numbers  which  are  potted  and  disposed 
of  in  those  popular-sized  pots — viz.,  5  and  6-inch.  The  trade  has, 
indeed,  been  entirely  revolutionised  since  the  old  days,  when  the 
secret  of  Fern  raising  was  known  only  to  the  few,  and  when  the 
majority  depended  upon  root  division  as  a  means  of  increasing  their 
stocks. 
Tin's  continual  process  of  raising  seedlings  has  also  had  the  effect  of 
bringing  hosts  of  new  varieties  to  light,  for  when  several  species  and 
varieties  are  grown  in  the  same  house  cross-fertilisation  is  frequently 
the  result,  and  even  when  seed  is  saved  from  plants  growing  in  a 
house  devoted  entirely  to  one  variety,  we  invariably  find  a  few  of  the 
seedlings  distinct  from  the  type,  though  not  always  superior.  Varied, 
novel,  and  beautiful  as  are  the  many  species  and  varieties  of  Ferns 
now  grown,  there  will,  I  think,  in  the  future  be  still  more  diversity 
among  them  —  a  diversity  which  will  be  bewitching  as  well  as 
interesting.  There  seems,  in  fart,  to  be  no  limit  in  regard  to  the  good 
things  to  be  expected  in  the  days  to  come,  and  those  who  practise 
systematic  cross-fertilisation  will  perhaps  be  able  to  give  us  a  new 
race,  with  bold  broad  fronds,  as  well  as  others  with  serrulated  and 
crested  ones  ot  an  entirely  new  type.  That  grand  variety  Pteris 
Dnnkwateri,  which  is  a  marked  improvement  on  P.  major,  seems  to 
have  taken  us  a  long  way  upon  the  road  by  which  we  may  hope  to 
secure  varieties  having  fronds  as  bold  as  Kentias,  and  in  Osmunda 
japonica  coryrnbifera  we  have  a  splendid  Fern  for  decorative  purposes, 
as  the  formation  of  the  fronds  is  distinct  and  striking,  and  their  rosy 
pink  colour  quite  novel. 
In  private  establishments  small  Ferns  are  in  great  demand,  for  the 
modern  decorator  finds  innumerable  wavs  in  which  to  employ  them  to 
advantage,  but  I  fear  that  in  only  very  few  instances  is  the  supply 
equal  to  the  demand,  lor  it  is  an  undoubted  fact  that  private  gardeners 
— as  a  rule — have  not  kept  pace  with  the  times  in  regard  to  Fern 
raising,  as  they  usually  rely  upon  chance  seedlings  which  come  up  in 
the  fernery  or  on  the  walls  of  oilier  houses,  for  increasing  their  stock. 
This  is,  however,  not  a  matter  for  surprise,  as  private  gardeners  labour 
under  difficulties  which  do  not  exist  in  la  ge  commercial  establish¬ 
ments,  where  specialists  are  engaged  for  such  work,  while  the  gardener 
with  his  multitudinous  duties  seldom  gets  the  opportunity  lo  study 
and  work  out  tho  really  simple  details  which  are  essential  to  success. 
For  these  reasons  I  trust  a  lew  remarks  on  the  subject  will  be  helpful 
to  any  who  require  such  information. 
The  most  important  detail  in  connection  with  the  matter  is, 
undoubtedly,  to  secure  fronds  loaded  with  spores  just  in  the  “nick” 
of  time.  Many  have  failed  in  raising  Ferns  from  promising  looking 
fronds  solely  because  they  were  gathered  too  late;  the  spores  had 
dropped,  only  tho  cases  (  r  sori  remained.  The  selected  fronds  should 
be  examined  frequently,  and  when  the  cases  are  of  a  rich  brown  colour 
the  fronds  should  be  cut,  enclosed  in  paper  bags,  and  hung  in  a  dry 
room  or  a  sunny  position  under  glass.  If  the  fronds  are  not  gathered 
till  the  sori  is  dark  in  colour — almost  black — the  work  has  been  too 
long  delayed  and  the  .'■pores  have  vanished.  A  little  close  observation 
and  a  few  trials  should,  hov'ever,  soon  enable  anyone  to  determine  the 
exact  stage  at  which  to  gather  the  fronds.  After  they  have  been 
hung  for  a  wei  k  the  spores  are  ready  for  sowing.  Some  will  have 
dropped  into  the  bag,  but  in  order  to  secure  as  many  as  possible  1  lay 
the  fronds  on  a  stiff  sheet  of  white  paper,  and  scrape  off  the  browu 
substance  with  a  knife. 
Prepare  a  compost  formed  of  equal  parts  of  well  decayed  turfy  loam 
and  peat,  add  to  it  a  sixth  of  sharp  sand,  and  thoroughly  burn  the 
whole  over  a  slow  fire  till  it  is  quite  black.  This  burning  of  the  soil 
prevent-!  the  growth  of  moss,  which  is  so  troublesome  in  Fern  raising 
when  unburned  soil  is  used.  Silt  the  compost  through  a  quarter-inch 
riddb',  drain  a  number  of  6-inch  pots  to  a  depth  of  3  inches  with  ashes 
or  finely  broken  potsherds,  cover  this  with  some  of  the  soil  siftings, 
and  finish  off  with  fine  soil  pressed  moderately  firm  ;  make  it  level 
on  the  surlace,  which  should  be  half  an  inch  from  the  top  of  the  pot. 
Water  thoroughly  through  a  fine  rose,  then  scatter  the  spores  thinly 
upon  the  surface ;  as  these  are  very  minute  a  very  small  pinch  will 
suffice  for  each  pot;  lay  this  on  a  small  sheet  of  white  paper,  and 
scatter  it  evenly  over  the  soil. 
After  sowing  place  the  pots  in  saucers  of  water,  cover  them  with 
a  sheet  of  glass,  and  stand  them  in  a  close  frame  in  a  propagating 
house.  The  saucers  should  be  kept  constantly  filled  with  water,  to 
avoid  overhead  watering,  and  until  the  spores  germii.ate  keep  the 
frame  constantly  shaded.  After  that  stage  has  been  reached,  remove 
the  shading  early  in  the  evening  and  replace  it  before  the  sun  shines 
upon  the  frame.  As  growth  progresses  admit  a  little  air,  and  as  soon 
as  the  seedlings  are  large  enough  to  handle  prick  them  out  in  shallow 
bDX<  s  filled  with  burnt  soil.  When  doing  this  do  not  attempt  to 
single  them  out,  but  lift  little  tufts  with  the  point  of  a  penknife  and 
set  them  an  inch  apart.  Return  the  boxes  to  a  propagating  frame, 
water  through  a  fii  e  rose,  sprinkle  lightly  each  day,  and  shade  as 
required.  When  the  “youngsters”  are  large  enough  to  handle 
conveniently  divide  the  clumps,  and  again  prick  out  in  boxes.  Two 
or  three  may  be  left  in  a  clump,  to  form  bushy  little  pot  plants, 
or  they  may  be  pricked  out  singly.  The  next  shift  should  be  into 
very  small  pots ;  shallow  Fern  pots  are  especially  made  for  the 
purpose,  as  these  are  of  convenient  size  for  dropping  into  china 
and  other  pretty  ornaments,  in  which  “baby”  Ferns  are  now  so 
often  placed. 
Those  who  require  plants  somewhat  larger  can  transfer  them' 
from  these  small  pots  into  3-inch  ones,  in  which  size  they  are 
extremely  useful  to  gardeners  for  decorative  purposes.  The  pretty 
Edwardian  ware,  which  is  made  in  various  sizes  and  designs,  supplies 
some  of  the  most  suitable  receptacles  of  which  I  know  for 
accommodating  Ferns.  Adiantum,  Pteris,  Phlebodiums,  Cyrtomiums, 
Lygodiums,  are  all  popular  Ferns,  which  may  be  easily  raised 
from  spores. 
The  Aspleniums  are  quite  as  easily  increased  by  inserting  the 
small  bulbils,  which  form  on  the  upper  parts  of  the  fronds,  in  b  irnt 
soil.  They  grow  very  slowly,  but  with  proper  treatment  95  per  cent, 
of  those  inserted  will  grow.  The  best  time  for  sowing  is  from’ 
January  to  the  end  of  June,  as  those  sown  at  the  latter  time  get  well 
established  before  the  dark  days  of  winter  come.  Success  may,, 
however,  be  secured  by  sowing  at  any  season  of  the  year,  though  in 
autumn  the  progress  made  is  very  slow.  Throughout  the  summer 
months  Fern  houses  ought  to  bo  kept  close,  very  moist,  and  the  young 
plants  sprinkled  lightly  once  or  twice  daily  during  bright  weather. 
Shade  should,  of  course,  also  be  afforded.  During  autumn  and  winter 
do  not  sprinkle,  but  keep  the  atmosphere  moist  by  repeated  dampings  ; 
avoid  doing  this  late  in  the  day,  especially  in  the  management  of 
plants  in  old  houses,  or  moisture  will  settle  upon  the  fronds 
at  night  and  bring  brown  spots  and  stripes  in  them.  A  tempera-^ 
ture  of  from  60°  to  65°  during  winter  is  a  suitable  one  for  young 
seedlings. 
At  all  seasons  of  the  year  when  a  stock  of  young  plants  is  ready  for 
use  they  ought  to  be  removed  to  a  cooler  str  cture  for  a  couple  of 
weeks  to  harden  the  fronds  ;  they  will  then  last  in  good  condition  for 
a  long  time. — H.  D. 
- - - 
Ribes  sanguiaenm. 
The  flowering  Currant  is  an  old  and  universal  favourite  in  most 
parts  of  the  country,  and  deservedly  so,  as  it  is  easily  accommodated, 
and  has  a  good  effect  when  in  flower.  Tho  typical  plant  is  a  native 
of  North  Ameiica,  and  has  pendulous  racemes  of  flowers  of  a  pale  red 
colour,  which  are  not  nearly  so  effective  as  some  of  the  forms  which 
have  been  raised  from  it.  These  vary  in  colour  from  nearly  pure 
white  to  a  deep  crimson,  and  form  some  of  the  most  attractive  of 
outdoor  plants  when  in  flower.  A  few  of  the  best  are  albidum,  which 
has  long  racemes  of  nearly  white  flowers  tinged  with  pale  rose,  which,, 
however,  does  not  detract  from  its  beauty  ;  carneum,  one  ol  the  best,^ 
with  Ion"  racemes  of  a  deep  flesh  colour;  Davidiana,  a  form  of 
continental  origin,  which  has  flowers  of  a  deep  rosy  pink,  and  is  very 
free  flowering ;  atrosanguineum,  with  flowers  of  a  deep  puipiish 
crimson  hue,  and  which  is  the  best  to  have  where  only  one 
is  grown  ;  and  atrorubens,  in  which  the  racemes  are  shorter,  and 
the  plant  rather  dwarfer  and  more  spreading ;  the  colour  is  deep 
bright  crimson. 
There  are  several  other  varieties,  but  those  named  above  are  the 
best  for  general  purposes,  the  others  not  being  very  distinct,  wiih  the 
exception  of  fiore-pleno,  which  has  double  flowers  of  a  deep  red  colour. 
All  these  are  easily  raised  from  cuttings  of  the  young  wood  taken  in 
winter,  and  put  in  the  open  ground  ;  albidum  and  the  double  one 
should  be  kept  in  stock,  as  they  are  both  apt  to  die  off  suddenly  fr  m- 
some  cause  or  other,  the  plants  often  seeming  in  good  health  in  the 
autumn,  bat  failing  to  start  the  following  spring  Cuttings,  however, 
are  easily  rooted,  so  that  it  is  not  difficult  to  have  sufficient  plants  to 
make  good  any  losses. 
Generally  speaking  no  pruning  is  required,  but  occasionally  a  plant 
becomes  ragged  or  in  bad  health,  and  then  a  cutting  back  after 
flowering  induces  young  and  vigorous  growth.  Thinning  of  the 
branc  les  is  requ  red  ^it  times,  where  a  plant  has  become  too  thick,  and 
the  shoots  crowded  together.  None  of  these  plants  seem  to  be 
particular  as  to  soil,  buu  tney  all  repay  any  attention  bestowed  upon 
them  in  the  way  of  feeding  and  watering. — C. 
