May  17,  1900. 
413 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
Rose  Sliow  Fixtures  in  1900. 
June  13tli  (Wednesday). — York.f 
„  27th  (Wednesday). — Salisbury  (N.R.S.),  Richmond  (Surrey),*  and 
Sonthampton.* 
,,  28th  (Thursday). — Canterbury  and  Colchester. 
„  30th  (Saturday). — Windsor. 
July  3rd  (Tuesday). — Westminster  (R.H.S.),  and  Gloucester. 
,,  4th  (Wednesday). — Croydon,  Farningham,  Hereford,  and  Reigate. 
„  5th  (Thursday). — Bath,  Norwich,  and  Sutton. 
„  7th  (Saturday). — Crystal  Palace  (N.R.S.). 
„  10th  (Tuesday). — Harrow  and  Wolverhampton.f 
,,  11th  (Wednesday). — Brockham. 
,,  12th  (Thursday). — Brentwuod,  Salterhebble,  Woodbridge,  and 
Eltham. 
,,  14th  (Saturday). — Manchester,  and  New  Brighton. 
„  18th  (Wednesday). — Cardiff.* 
„  19th  (Thursday). — Birmingham  (N.R.S.)  and  Helensburgh. 
„  21st  (Saturday). — Newton  Mearns. 
,,  24th  (Tuesday). — Tibshelf. 
„  25th  (Wednesday). — Newcastle-on-Tyne.+ 
„  26th  (Thursday). — Bedale. 
*  Shows  lasting  two  days.  +  Shows  lasting  three  days. 
I  shall  be  glad  to  receive  the  dates  of  any  other  Rose  shows  (or 
horticultural  exhibitions  in  which  Roses  form  a  leading  feature)  for 
the  next  list  of  Rose  Show  Fixtures,  which  will  appear  in  an  early 
issue. — Edward  Mawlky,  Rosebank,  Berkhamsted,  Herts. 
- - 
Seasonable  Topics. 
The  few  days  of  sunshine  recently  have  caused  the  Rose  trees  to 
push  their  growth  buds  most  rapidly,  but  with  nightly  frosts  of  more 
or  less  severity  one  is  anxious  about  the  tender  shoots  becoming 
crippled  in  their  infancy.  For  this  reason  it  is  unwise  to  be  in  too 
great  a  hurry  to  remove  any  ;  rather  leave  all  for  a  time,  so  that  we 
may  make  a  good  selection  from  the  fittest  to  provide  the  blooms. 
The  shoots  do  not  draw  much  from  the  tree  until  they  have  attained 
to  a  considerable  length,  so  that  no  harm  in  that  way  is  done  by 
leaving  them  at  present. 
Timely  attention  should  be  given  to  insect  pests.  The  maggots 
and  aphides  come  in  most  seasons.  In  the  former  case  hand  picking 
is  the  only  remedy.  A  curl  in  the  leaf,  or  the  point  of  a  young  shoot 
with  its  tiny  leaves  clinging  together  as  it  were,  is  a  certain  indication 
of  its  presence.  These  leaves  must  be  carefully  unfolded,  and  the 
enemy  captured.  In  the  case  of  green  fly,  syringing  is  the  best 
remedy.  We  like  the  insecticide  known  as  “  Abol,”  a  preparation 
recommended  for  Hops.  Tiiis  is  easily  app  ied,  and  not  the  least  of 
its  merits  is  that  it  readily  mixes  with  water,  so  that  there  is  no 
trouble  in  boiling.  What  is  most  important  is  that  aphid' s  should 
not  be  allowed  to  get  the  upper  hand.  These  tiny  insects  become  so 
numerous  as  to  suck  all  the  virtue  from  the  growth,  leaving  none  to 
perfect  the  blossoms. 
The  Value  of  Soil  Loosening. 
Stirring  the  soil  about  the  plants  is  a  constant  item  of  culture. 
This  keeps  down  weeds,  makes  the  beds  tidy,  besides  letting  air  into 
the  earth.  The  strawy  portion  of  manure  put  on  for  winter  protection 
is  cleared  ;  the  other  becomes  mixed  with  the  earth  by  hoeing.  In  the 
case  of  newly  planted  Roses  watering  is  thus  early  necessary,  at  least 
on  light  soil,  and  we  also  water  established  trees  wdth  liquid  manure. 
Roses  out  of  doors  cannot  be  overgrown.  They  seem  to  take  any 
amount  of  feeding  and  moisture.  The  blooms  of  some  sorts  come 
quartered  and  ugly  in  shape,  perhaps,  when  the  growth  is  vigorous; 
but  we  would  rather  counteract  this  habit  in  allowing  an  abundance 
of  flowering  shoots  on  a  tree  than  by  starving  the  same  at  the  roots. 
That  very  strong  growing  variety  Her  Majesty  is  an  instance  of 
this.  It  is  apt  to  produce  coarse  blooms.  It  has  also  a  trait  in 
producing  few  shoots  to  a  plant.  We  were  advised  to  prune  early — 
in  December — and  this  practice  certainly  has  made  the  plant  bushier 
in  growth.  That  is  to  say,  the  lower  as  well  as  the  upper  “eyes”  are 
starting  into  life. 
A  Trio  of  Beauties. 
What  a  splendid  Rose  for  pot  culture  La  France  is.  Seldom  do 
we  get  it  to  come  into  its  best  form  in  the  open.  The  blooms  are  so 
easily  spoiled  by  moisture,  but  under  glass  every  bud  opens  perfectly, 
and  the  shape  as  well  as  colour  are  so  taking.  It  grows  equally  well 
budded  or  grafted  on  a  stock  as  on  its  own  roots,  and  roots  easily. 
The  half-ripened  stems  that  have  produced  blooms  give  plenty  of 
material  at  this  time  to  propagate.  These  should  be  cut  into  lengths 
of  about  6  inches,  placed  round  the  edge  of  pots  filled  with  light 
sandy  earth,  and  stood  in  a  closed  frame  within  a  cool  greenhouse. 
Climbing  Niphetos  is  a  Rose  which  should  not  be  neglected  as  a 
climber  under  glass.  It  grows  freely  and  is  a  profuse  bloomer.  We 
recently  noted  a  fine  plant  of  Climb  ng  Devoniensis  in  a  conservatory 
bearing  hundreds  of  flowers.  This  old  variety  is  somewhat  left 
behind  by  newer  rivals  ;  few,  however,  can  compete  with  it  when 
seen  covering  a  space  of  at  least  100  square  feet.  Loose  training  and 
little  pruning  appear  to  suit  it,  as  long  branches  were  hanging  in  full 
flower  some  distance  from  the  roof.  Tne  tree  was  growing  in  a  cosy 
end  of  a  large  structure  where  it  is  not  subject  to  cold  draughts, 
which  are  so  detrimental  to  Roses  under  glass. — H.  S. 
Thinning  Shoots. 
Now  that  shoots  are  pushing  freely  on  bushes,  standards,  and 
climbers,  there  will  inevitably  be  growths  that  are  of  a  superfluous 
character  which  require  to  be  rubbed  out.  This  may  be  done  with 
much  benefit  to  the  plants,  as  the  removal  of  those  which  are  useless 
tends  to  improve  the  shape  of  the  bush  or  tree,  and  the  plant’s 
vigour  is  directed  to  the  development  of  growing  wood  or  flowe'ing 
shoot.  An  important  advantage  also  is  the  freer  admission  of  light 
and  air,  of  which  Roses  appreciate  an  abundance.  These  conditions 
enable  the  lesser  shoots  and  all  the  leaves  to  develop  strongly  and 
build  up  tissue  which  proves  less  liable  to  attacks  from  insect  pests. 
In  regard,  however,  to  disbudding  or  the  removal  of  weak  shoots,  it  is 
apparent  that  no  set  rule  can  be  laid  down  as  to  the  course  to  pursue. 
The  main  principle  may  be  grasped,  which  is  that  weak  shoots  must 
not  be  allowed  to  crowd  the  beat  and  most  promising,  and  this  may 
usually  be  effected  by  the  entire  removal  of  shoots  here  and  there. 
The  Removal  of  Suckers. 
Suckers  must  be  regarded  as  superfluous  growths  springing  up  out 
of  place  and  abstracting  from  the  soil  food  and  moisture,  and  also 
tending  to  obstruct  tne  light.  If  removed  early  the  process  is  far 
easier  than  when  they  are  allowed  to  remain  gathering  strength.  The 
snckers,  too,  may  prove  detrimental  in  weakening  the  vigour  of  the 
roots.  This  will  undoubtedly  be  the  case  with  suckers  from  strong- 
rooting  stocks  up  n  which  the  Roses  are  worked,  as,  for  instance. 
Briars.  These  are  readily  recognised,  and  sljould  be  removed  cleanly, 
if  possible,  from  the  roots  close  to  th  ir  origin.  Own-root  Roses  may, 
and  do,  develop  suckers  which  are  found  some  distance  from  the  p  ants 
in  many  cases.  Allowing  them  to  remain  will  eventually  prove  a 
source  of  annoyance  and  detract  from  the  order  and  neatness  of  a 
small  Rose  bed  or  a  large  Rose  garden.  The  teiidency  to  produce 
suckers  must  be  reduced  as  far  as  possible  by  their  caretul  removal. 
Hoeing  and  Feeding. 
All  beds,  borders,  and  plantations  of  Roses  may  have  the  Dutch 
hoe  run  over  them  frequently  now  in  order  to  cut  down  seedling  and 
other  weeds,  and  as  a  means  of  cultivating  the  soil,  favouring  clean 
and  healthy  growth,  as  well  as  promoting  vigour.  After  these 
important  and  highly  beneficial  operations  the  next  step  is  to  apply  a 
mulching.  This  may  consist  of  horse  droppings,  half  decomposed,  and 
saturated  with  bquid  manure.  Spread  it  over  the  roots  about  a  >  inch 
thick  when  the  bud-<  have  formed  and  are  swelling.  The  fertilising 
matter  contained  in  the  manure  will,  during  ram,  be  gradually  washed 
down  to  the  roots,  imparting  vig'iur  to  the  growth  and  improving  the 
blooms  in  size  and  depth  of  colour.  In  the  absence  of  rain  artificial 
waterings  and  the  ap[)lication  of  liquid  manure  act  equally  well,  it  not 
better,  in  conveying  due  supplies  of  stimulants  to  the  roots. 
Soot  is  a  capital  manure  for  Roses,  and  is  best  applied  in  a  liquid 
form.  Mix  a  peck  of  soot  int')  a  paste  with  a  little  wat'  r,  and  then 
place  in  a  bag,  which  tie  up  and  sink  in  a  tub  of  water  holding  -5  to 
30  gallons.  After  soaking  well  for  a  few  days  throw  in  a  sh'ivelful  ot 
lime,  mix,  and  let  it  stand  until  the  liquid,  instead  of  having  a  thick 
inky  appearance,  is  clarified  like  wine.  Apply  tuis  to  the  Roses  when 
the  soil  is  moist.  It  will  add  a  richer  and  deeper  tint  of  green  to  the 
foliage,  and  assist  in  making  the  leaves  proof  against  t  ie  numerous 
insects  which  are  ready  to  attack,  especially  when  the  soil  m  comes 
exhausted  of  moisture.  Tne  flowers  in  consequence  h  ive  more 
substance  in  the  petals,  as  well  a.s  richer  and  more  velvety  hues. 
