414 
May  17,  1900. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
Generous  living  and  uniforna  moisture  will  do  more  in  maintaining 
the  plants  clean  and  free  from  insects  than  anything  else. 
In  good  rich  soil,  which  is  kept  moist  by  a  light  mulching  of 
manure,  recently  planted  Boses  ought  not  to  be  stimulated  too  much 
the  first  season  with  strong  manures.  Growth  of  a  medium  character 
has  a  better  chance  of  becoming  well  and  thoroughly  ripened  than 
abnormally  strong  shoots  which  might  be  produced,  hence  the  latter 
should  not  be  encouraged  on  dwarfs  and  standards,  but  may  be 
countenanced  on  wall  Boses,  which  depend  largely  on  strong  shoots 
for  furnishing  the  space. — Sweet  Bkier. 
- - - 
Pot  Roses. 
Boses  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetual  and  Tea  section  are  very  useful  for 
growing  in  pots  to  produce  flowers  early  in  the  season  under  glass. 
The  plants  employed  for  this  purpose,  however,  requ  re  to  be  specially 
prepared  during  the  previous  summer  and  autumn.  The  present  time 
is  very  suitable  to  obtain  well  established  healthy  plants  in  5-inch 
or  even  7-iuch  pots,  and  grow  them  under  favourable  conditions 
in  8  or  9-inch  pots  for  early  blooming.  Good  specimens  may  be 
secured  from  any  of  the  leading  Bose  nurserymen,  the  plants  being 
worked  on  the  Manetti  stock.  If  well  rooted  plants  are  obtained  they 
may  have  a  shift  at  once  into  a  larger  pot.  The  pots  must  be  quite 
clean  inside,  and  be  carefully  drained  with  a  small  quantity  of  pot¬ 
sherds  arranged  round  a  large  central  crock  over  the  hole  in  the 
bottom.  On  this  drainage  place  a  layer  of  clean  fibre — that  is,  fibre 
with  all  the  loose  soil  shaken  out  to  prevent  the  soil  choking  the 
drainage. 
Composts  and  Potting. 
Good,  rich,  substantial  compost  is  important,  and  if  the  top  spit 
can  be  obtained  from  a  clay  soil  pasture,  stacking  it  grass  side  down¬ 
wards  for  a  period  of  three  months,  it  should  be  in  prime  condition 
for  the  potting  material.  Chop  it  down  into  small  pieces,  adding 
about  a  sixth  part  of  leaf  soil  and  a  fourth  part  of  manure  all 
thoroughly  intermixed,  and  to  each  barrowload  an  8-inch  pot  of 
crushed  or  dissolved  bone  manure,  and  a  liberal  admixture  of  sand  will 
much  improve  it.  The  leaf  soil  should  be  of  a  sweet  character,  and 
the  manure  well  decomposed. 
The  plant  must  be  moist  at  the  time  of  potting,  so  that  it  is  not 
necessary  to  water  the  soil  immediately  after.  On  turning  the  plants 
out  of  pots  remove  the  loose  soil,  which  may  come  away  easily  from 
the  ball,  also  picking  out  the  crocks.  Place  the  ball  in  the  pot  so 
that  the  surface  will  be  just  below  the  rim  when  the  soil  is  filled  in 
and  a  little  placed  on  tbe  top.  As  the  soil  is  introduced  make  it 
firm.  The  new  compost  must  be  as  firm  as  the  old  ball.  With  the 
compost  moist  as  well  as  the  plants  no  water  should  be  necessary  for 
a  day  or  two;  instead  of  applying  it  dew  the  plants  with  a  syringe. 
Keep  them  on  a  cool  base  in  a  frame  or  in  an  airy  cool  greenhouse, 
tbe  Hybrid  Perpetuals  being  placed  outdoors  in  June,  plunging  the 
pot  in  ashes  to  the  rim.  Attend  strictly  to  the  supply  of  water, 
never  allowing  the  soil  to  become  dust  dry. 
Destroying  Mildew. 
If  mildew  should  attack  any  of  the  young  shoots  soapy  water 
mixed  with  tobacco  liquid  will  destroy  it,  also  green  fly.  The  pest 
known  as  orange  fungus  is  a  troublesome  foe.  As  much  of  the 
diseased  parts  as  possible  should  be  cut  out,  and  then  treat  the 
remainder  to  a  dusting  of  flowers  of  sulphur,  which  also  destroys 
mildew. 
Housing. 
About  the  end  of  September  if  the  season  should  be  wet  remov® 
the  plants  into  a  cool,  airy  house,  but  where  this  is  not  practicable  an 
open  shed  is  quite  sufficient  protection.  Plants  intended  for  very 
early  forcing  may  be  pruned  as  soon  as  the  leaves  fall,  doing  this 
when  the  soil  is  comparatively  dry.  These  mav  be  introduced  into  a 
structure  kept  steadily  at  a  temperature  of  45°,  fairly  close  to  the 
glass,  and  when  leaves  have  formed  increase  to  55°.  Early  blooms  are 
never  so  good  as  those  developed  under  the  influence  of  longer  days. 
Disbud  or  thin  out  crowded  growths.  When  flower  buds  have  been 
formed  supplies  of  weak  liquid  manure  may  be  given.  That  made 
from  cow  manure  and  allowed  to  become  clear  is  enriching.  Slight 
applications  of  guano  spread  on  the  surface  of  the  soil  and  washed  in 
also  promote  healthy  growth,  but  care  must  be  taken  not  to  apply  it 
of  more  than  ordinary  strength.  Weak  and  often  is  a  safe  rule  with 
all  manurial  applications,  given  in  the  form  of  liquid  or  as  dustings  of 
artificial  manure. 
Good  Varieties. 
Some  of  the  best  Tea  Boses  for  pot  culture  consist  of  Belle 
Lyonaisse,  Cheshunt  Hybrid,  Gloire  de  Dijon,  Madame  Falcot, 
Safrano,  and  Niphetos.  Among  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  there  are 
numbers  of  varieties  suitable.  A  few  desirable  are  A.  Colomb,  Bessie 
Johnson,  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  Gendral  Jacqueminot,  J  hn  Hopper,. 
Jules  Margottin,  Madame  Victor  Verdier,  and  Star  of  Waltham. — H.  T. 
- 1  » - - 
Rose  Pests. 
The  growth  of  Boses  under  glass  is  now  free  and  vigorous,  and 
well-established  plants  will  be  flowering  abundantly,  especially  the 
climbing  varieties  planted  out  in  conveniently'  I'ght  positions. 
Considerable  trouble  has  to  be  taken  to  maintain  the  growth  clean 
and  free  from  a[)hi8,  red  spider,  and  mildew.  Aphis  or  green  fly  is 
sure  to  attack  the  points  of  the  shoots,  and  if  the  pests  are  allowed 
to  remain  a  check  may  be  given  the  plants,  for  the  insects  will 
increase  rapidly,  invading  the  whole  tree,  and  cause  endless  trouble  in 
destroying  them,  be-ides  covering  the  foliage  with  st  cky  secret!  ns. 
Syringing  the  growth  frequently  is  a  good  meth*  d  of  preventing  them 
making  their  first  attacks,  if  not  of  destroying  them.  If,  how*  ver,. 
instead  of  syringing  with  clear  water  a  rather  weak  insecticide 
is  employed,  the  increase  of  green  fly  must  be  considerably 
checked.  If  measures  are  taken  sufificientlv  early  to  render  it  difficult 
for  insects  to  establish  themselves,  there  will  be  less  trouble  afterwards. 
The  aphis  feeds  on  the  young  growth,  sucking  out  the  sap. 
A  softsoap  and  sulphur  emulsion,  with  or  without  petroleum  added, 
forms  an  excellent  solution.  The  way  to  make  the  solution  is  to  b)il‘ 
1  lb.  of  soap  to  a  gallon  of  water,  adding  half  a  pint  of  petroleum  and 
4  ozs.  of  flowers  of  sulphur,  first  mixing  the  latter  int)  a  paste. 
Thoroughly  stir  and  boil  again.  This  may  be  placed  in  a  bottle 
when  cold,  and  half  a  pint  of  it  added  to  2  gallons  of  water  at 
a  temperature  of  70°.  Constantly  stir  the  mixture  when  using,  so  as 
to  prevent  the  oil  settling  on  the  top. 
The  above  insecticide  will  prove  inimical  to  mildew  on  Bose 
growths,  but  it  may  be  necessary  to  add  a  little  more  sulphur,  in 
order  that  when  the  solution  is  syringed  upon  the  leaves  a  deposit  is 
left  which  will  ultimately  destroy  the  fungus.  Sprayittg  on  the- 
solution  is  probably  better  than  syringing,  as  it  can  be  done  much 
finer,  and  is  more  economical  and  effective. 
Bed  spider  is  another  insect  which  attacks  Boses  under  glass,  but 
it  should,  and  may  be,  of  rare  occurrence,  as  it  onlv  attacks  trees 
which  are  growing  in  a  dry  atmosphere,  or  established  in  a  poor 
border  which  has  been  allowed  to  become  deficient  in  moisture.  If 
the  atmosphere  of  the  structure  is  kept  moist  by  damping  the  floors, 
walls,  and  borders,  the  roots  at  the  same  time  having  substantial 
moist  soil,  a  slight  attack  of  red  spider  may  soon  be  cured.  Il  8ul[/bur 
is  mixed  into  a  paste  and  spread  on  the  hot- water  pipes,  which  should 
not  be  kept  too  hot,  fumes  will  be  given  off  which  destroy  red  spider. 
The  growths  ought  also  to  be  syringed  with  the  sulphur  and  soap  remedy. 
Green  fly  and  mildew  also  attack  Boses  outdoors.  It  any  wall 
Boses  are  growing  in  a  dry  position,  mildew  will  almost  certainly 
attack  them.  Bush  plants  and  standards  are  subject  to  it  in  poor 
exhausted  soil.  One  of  the  first  meaus  to  be  adopted  in  fortifying 
Boses  against  mildew  is  to  moisten  and  enrich  the  soil.  Many 
specimens  of  wall  and  trellis  Boses  are  undoubtedly  ill  treated  in  the 
supply  of  moisture  fcr  t'  e  roots,  hence  their  unsatisfactory  condition 
in  flowering,  and  sub.-equent  growth  made  for  future  blooming.  Well 
moisten  the  ground  with  a  copious  supply  of  clear  water,  loosening 
the  surface  as  far  as  the  roots  are  likely  to  extend,  so  that  the  water 
may  pass  direct  to  them  ;  follow  this  by  a  free  supply  of  liquid 
stimulant,  and  a  top-dressir  g  of  manure  to  retain  the  m  isture  thus 
applied.  Syringe  the  stems  and  growths  freely  and  vigorously  morning 
and  afternoon,  the  insecticide  being  applied  in  the  evening,  both  for 
outside  and  inside  plants. 
Another  insect  which  attacks  indifferently  cultivated  and  neglected 
specimens  outdoors  is  a  white  or  yellowish  fly,  rather  lar  er  than  the 
green  fly.  This  does  much  damage  to  the  foliage,  chiefly  in  esting  the 
under  or  lower  cuticle  of  the  leaves,  giving  them  an  extremely 
unhealthy  and  spotted  appearance.  More  liberal  watering,  synugmg, 
and  the  application  of  an  insecticide  will  assist  in  ex  erm  nating  it, 
but  to  absolutely  prevent  the  recurrence  of  this  insect  another  season, 
there  must  be  increased  attention  given  to  the  supply  of  soil  moisture. 
The  Bose  maggot  is  a  grub  of  an  injurious  character,  olten 
destroying  the  tips  or  points  of  valuable  shoots,  as  it  feeds  on  the 
youngest  and  tenderest  leaves,  shoots,  and  flower  buds.  No  insecicide 
is  a  remedy  for  this  grub.  It  should  be  sought  for  early.  The  best 
indication  of  its  presence  is  the  rolled  up  leaves.  Press  these  betwt  en 
the  finger  and  thumb  and  the  grub  will  be  killed.  If  attention  is 
given  early,  so  as  to  find  the  first  marauders,  further  mischief  may 
possibly  be  averted.  When  the  maggots  emerge  from  their  hiding 
places,  and  are  not  feeding  cn  growth,  they  can  often  be  seen 
suspended  by  sdkeu  threads.  By  persistently  hunting  down  the 
maggots  thev  will  gradually  lessen  in  number  and  finally  disappear  in 
succeeding  seasons.  Thrips  only  attack  Boses  in  dry  seasons.  Brown 
scale  is  a  troublesome  enemy  on  the  young  growtn.  It  is  chiefl.y 
destroyed  in  winter  while  growth  is  dormant. — Bosarian. 
