May  17,  1900. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
427 
better  than  increasing  the  quantity  each  time  and  at  long  intervals.  A 
light  mulch  is  of  great  advantage  in  keeping  the  soil  uniformly  moist  at 
the  surface  and  supplying  nourishment.  Cow  manure  is  best  for  light 
porous  sf’ils,  and  horse  droppings  are  excellent  for  those  of  medium  and 
retentive  natures.  Both  are  better  sweetened,  that  is,  not  used  quite 
fresh,  hut  thrown  into  a  heap  and  turned  a  time  or  two  as  if  preparing 
for  a  Mushroom  bed,  and  heavy  mulching  should  be  avoided,  an  inch 
thickness  sufficing,  adding  to  it  fnm  time  to  time  so  as  to  maintain 
that  depth  or  very  little  more.  This  will  not  deprive  the  soil  of  the 
essential  atmospheric  air,  especially  if  the  material  be  used,  as  it  should 
be,  in  a  rather  lumpy  state. 
Late  Bouses. — In  some  places  the  work  now  on  hand  in  thinning 
the  berries  is  considerable,  and  will  continue  for  some  weeks,  as  in 
many  instances  the  Vines  are  only  in  flower.  In  the  latter  case 
maintain  a  minimum  temperature  of  65°  to  70°,  5°  more  for  Muscats, 
shaking  the  Vine  twice  a  day  to  distribute  the  pollen,  which  will  be 
sufficieiit  for  all  but  the  shy  setters,  and  thpse  ought  to  be  artificially 
fertilised,  going  over  the  bunches  carefully  with  a  camel’s-hair  brush, 
and  supplying  pollen  where  it  is  deficient  from  those  varieties  that 
afford  it  freely.  All  the  large  berried  and  free-setting  varieties,  such 
as  Gros  Colman  and  Gros  Guillaume,  should  be  thinned  whilst  they  are 
in  flower,  or  as  soon  as  set,  and  with  those  that  are  liable  to  have  closely 
set  berries  it  is  advisable  to  thin  before  the  flow'ers  expand, as  a  practised 
eye  can  tell  which  flower  will  set  by  its  vigour,  and  tbe  removal  of  the 
weaker  strengthens  those  left  wonderfully.  While  the  Vines  are  in 
flower  moderate  moisture,  with  a  rather  free  circulation  of  warm  air, 
18  desirable.  It  is  also  inadvisable  to  stop  or  remove  laterals  while  the 
Vines  are  in  bloom,  but  when  the  berries  are  fairly  set  remove  super, 
fluous  laterals  and  pinch  as  required,  both  to  prevent  overcrowding  and 
concentrate  the  supplies  of  nourishment  on  the  Grapes. 
Planting  Growing  Vines. — From  now  to  the  early  part  of  June  is  a 
good  time  to  plant  out  those  raised  from  eyes  in  February  or  March  and 
grown  in  pots  or  turves.  The  roots  need  not  be  disentangled,  yet 
turf-raised  Vines  are  better  than  potted  ones,  as  they  form  a  straight 
yet  fibrous  root,  and  are  not  so  prone  to  descend  deeply  as  those  turned 
out  of  the  pots  with  the  ball  entire.  Firm  the  soil  well  about  the 
balls  or  turves,  giving  a  good  but  not  excessive  watering  with  water 
at  90°,  and  mulch  with  about  an  inch  of  short  and  rather  lumpy 
manure.  Maintain  a  rather  humid  atmosphere,  and  shade  from  bright 
sun  until  the  Vines  become  established. 
Strawberries  in  Pots. — There  must  be  no  lack  of  moisture  at 
the  roots  of  fStrawberries,  as  when  the  sun  is  powerful  the  fruits  are 
apt  to  have  the  skin  dried,  and  they  do  not  swell  properly  afterwards; 
the  fruits  are  also  better  for  a  slight  shade  from  the  fierce  rajs  of  the 
sun.  After  the  fruits  commence  swelling  a  brisk  moist  heat  is  essential, 
fipplying  liquid  manure  liberally  until  the  fruits  change  colour,  when  it 
must  be  discontinued,  giving  less  water  at  the  roots.  Admit  air  freely 
whenever  the  weather  is  favourable,  avoiding  drying  currents.  Thin 
the  fruits  well  on  late  plants,  especially  the  late  varieties.  Water  the 
plants  twice  a  day,  and  in  bright  weather  three  times  at  least.  Liquid 
manure  may  be  given  at  the  afternoon  watering. 
Tlie  Kitclieu  Garden. 
.Artichokes. — Globe  Artichokes  have  developed  sucker  growths  far 
more  than  are  wanted  this  season.  If  all  are  allowed  to  remain  non© 
will  be  strong,  and  a  short  ci’op  of  small  flower  heads  be  the  result, 
whereas  if  the  growths  are  reduced  to  about  three  in  each  group  these 
will  grow  strongly,  branch  freely,  and  develop  a  long  succession  of 
large  succulent  heads.  Feed  the  older  plants  freely,  supplementing 
occasionally  with  soakings  of  liquid  manure  and  a  heavy  mulching  of 
strawy  manure.  Young  plants  recently  separated  from  old  stools  and 
carefully  planted  on  heavily  manured  deeply  cultivated  ground  should 
be  kept  well  supplied  with  water  at  the  roots  duritig  dry  hot  weather, 
and  they  ought  then  to  produce  a  few  acceptable,  because  late,  flower 
heads.  Seedlings  raised  under  glass  and  still  in  5-inch  pots,  should  be 
quickly  hardened  and  planted  out  2  feet  apart  in  rows  3  feet  asunder,  on 
well  manured  deeply  cultivated  ground. 
Beet. — Birds  are  ve^y  destructive  among  the  young  plants  this 
season.  Where  this  trouble  is  experienced  late  thinning  is  desirable, 
and  if  occasional  dusting  with  soot  and  lime  while  the  leaves  are  damp 
in  the  morning  will  not  deter  the  birds,  a  single  line  of  black  cotton 
should  be  stretched  just  over  the  rows.  IMore  seeds  of  a  selected 
variety  sown  at  this  late  date  may  result  in  the  production  of  a  ser¬ 
viceable  crop.  Where  birds  are  not  troublesome  early  thinning  of 
plants  should  be  resorted  to,  not  waiting  till  they  have  already 
weakened  each  other.  Medium  sized  roots  can  be  had  by  leaving  the 
plants  not  more  than  8  inches  apart.  The  Turnip-rooted  type  will 
transplant  readily. 
Carrots. — The  seeds  of  these  in  common  with  various  other  vegetables 
have  germinated  w’ell,  and  where  sown  thickly  much  thinning  will  be 
necessary.  This  can  be  most  expeditiously  done  while  the  plants  are 
small.  The  Horn  variety  need  only  be  thinned  to  2  inches  apart, 
drawing  more  when  the  roots  are  large  enough  for  use,  ultimately 
leaving  those  reserved  about  4  inches  asunder.  The  intermediate  and 
long  rooted  types  should  be  thiuned  more  severely  directly  they  are 
large  enoueh. 
Onions. — In  gardens  near  to  towns,  and  also  farm  buildings,  sparrows 
have  cleared  off  the  plants  wholesale.  A  single  line  of  black  cotton. 
as  advised  in  the  case  of  Beet,  seems  the  only  remedy.  Where  there  is 
no  such  interference  the  thinning  should  take  place  when  they  are 
quite  small,  or  when  they  can  be  drawn  with  the  least  amount  of 
disturbance  to  those  left.  If  12  inches  or  so  are  allowed  between  the 
rows  a  serviceable  crop  of  roots  can  be  had  by  thinning  to  about 
4  inches  apart,  allowing  an  additional  2  inches  if  large  roots  are  desired. 
A  light  surfacing  of  soot  is  an  excellent  dressing  for  Onions,  applying 
this  and  s'irring  it  in  when  rain  is  expected. 
Parsnips. — For  large  roots  of  these  there  is  little  demand,  the  smaller 
and  more  acceptable  class  of  roots  being  obtained  by  sowing  somewhat 
late  (April),  and  by  lightly  thinning  those  rows  that  were  sown  much 
earlier.  Do  all  necessary  thinning  early,  leaving  the  plants  about 
8  inches  apart,  while  12  inches  is  none  too  much  space  if  exhibition 
roots  are  wanted. 
^1;  Turnips. — The  strap-leaved  varieties,  including  Early  Milan,  do  not 
form  large  leaves.  These  should  be  thinned  early  to  6  inches  apart, 
drawing  the  roots  later  as  fast  as  required,  or  when  near  the  size  of 
overgrown  Badishes.  The  stronger  growing  Snowball  type  should  be 
thinned  to  12  inches  apart,  or  they  may  fail  to  “  bulb  ”  pioperly. 
Hoeing  Among  Crops. — Directly  the  rows  of  seedling  plants  are  well 
defined  hoeing  between  them  should  commence.  It  is  not  merely  a 
question  of  getting  rid  of  weedk,  but  the  ground  ought  to  be  fre¬ 
quently  stirred  with  Dutch  hoes,  this  keeping  it  loose  and  open,  also 
destroying  all  advancing  weeds. 
W. 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
■  I  -  I  .  I  .‘T.-rVl  ~=~T 
Seasonable  Notes. 
It  is  several  years  since  there  was  such  an  abundance  of  bloom, 
not  only  on  the  fruit  trees,  but  also  on  the  different  hardy  trees  on 
which  the  bees  work.  The  Plums  are  now  nearly  over,  and  thanks  to 
the  bees  fertilising  and  the  fine  weather  which  prevailed  whilst  they 
were  in  bloom  they  appear  to  have  set  well.  True  there  have  been 
frosty  nights  and  high  winds,  but  in  this  district  (South  York  hire) 
it  has  not  seriously  affected  them.  The  next  f  rinight  will  decide 
the  question  whether  an  abundance  of  fruit  will  follow ;  so  far  the 
prospects  ate  decidedly  good. 
Apricots  have  set  remarkably  well,  bees  having  played  an 
important  part  in  fertilising  the  blossoms.  T'he  result  is,  they  must 
be  severely  thinned  if  fine  fruit  is  expected.  If  gardeners  would  realise 
how  beneficial  bees  are  in  the  fertilisation  of  their  fruit  trees,  there 
would  not  be  a  garden  in  the  country  without  a  stock  or  two  of  bees. 
Gooseberries  and  Currants  are  also  well  set,  and  as  the  former  are  now 
well  in  leaf  they  will  withstand  several  degrees  of  frost  without  any 
harm  happening  to  them.  This  is  the  great  advatitage  that  Whinham’s 
Industry  has  over  other  varieties,  as  it  bursts  into  haf  as  soon  as  the 
flowers  are  opening,  wh  ch  protects  the  blossoms  from  frost. 
There  are  not  many  stocks  in  the  country  strong  enough  to  store  a 
surplus  from  the  fruit  bmssoms.  It  is  not  only  from  the  fruit  trees 
that  bees  obtain  their  stores  at  this  season,  the  meadows  and  woods 
are  carpeted  with  flowers,  many  of  them  yielding  an  abundance  of 
pollen.  One  has  only  to  observe  the  bees  as  they  return  laden  to  their 
hives  with  the  pellets  of  different  coloured  pollen  on  their  legs  to 
realise  how  numerous  the  flowers  are  on  which  they  work. 
We  have  mentioned  in  previous  noies  the  advantage  bee-keepers 
derive  from  planting  the  different  varieties  of  Willows  near  the  apiarj’. 
They  all  yield  an  abundance  of  pollen,  and  at  the  present  time  the 
bees  are  working  more  freelv  on  them  than  on  any  other  non-lruiting 
tree.  The  Sycamore  and  Wild  Cherry,  of  which  there  are  numerous 
trees  near  our  apiary,  are  much  frequented  by  the  bees  on  account  of 
the  honey  and  pollen  they  produce.  The  former  yield  an  abundance 
of  honey  of  poor  flavour.  It  is,  however,  not  stored  in  quantity,  as 
the  bees  are  increasing  in  strength  every  day,  and  thus  require  an 
abund  ince  of  stores.  Extra  combs  or  frames  of  full  sheets  of  lounda- 
lion  sh  )uld  be  given  to  colonies  that  are  crowded  with  bees. — 
An  English  Bee-keeper. 
Gardeners’  Charitable  and  Provident  Institutions 
The  Gaedeners’  Koyal  Benevolent  Institution.  —  Secretary, 
Mr.  G.  J.  Ingram,  175,  Victoria  Street,  S.W. 
United  Horticultural  Benefit  and  Provident  Society. — Secretary, 
Mr.  W-  Collins,  9,  Martindale  Road,  Balham,  London,  S.W. 
Royal  Gardeners’  Orphan  Fund.— Secretari/,  Mr.  Brian  Wynne, 
8,  Danes  Inn,  Strand.  London,  W.G. 
