June  14,  1900. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
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A  mulching  over  the  roots  after  the  soil  his  beeu  moistened  has 
the  effect  of  preventing  the  speedy  escape  of  moisture  from  the  surface, 
and  if  the  mulching  consist  of  manure  of  a  rich  juicy  character  some 
of  the  virtues  contained  in  it  must  be  washed  to  the  roots  by  the 
wate'ing  and  syringing  carried  on.  The  mulching  will  also  hold  the 
water  until  it  has  time  to  percolate  into  the  soil.  On  hare  hard  ground 
■wa'er  runs  off  quickly,  and  if  not  mulched  it  should  be  pricked  up 
■with  a  fork.  Nothing  can  be  bettor  than  the  drainings  from  stables 
and  farmyards  for  Roses,  but  in  many  cases  it  is  not  easily  attainable, 
hence  recourse  must  be  had  to  some  means  of  preparing  a  suitible 
liquid.  A  rich  liquid  may  be  formed  with  a  peck  of  any  animal 
manure,  such  as  horse,  cow,  sheep,  or  fowl  manure,  placed  in  a  bag 
and  sunk  in  a  tub  holding  30  gallons  of  water.  Let  it  soak  for  a  few 
days,  stirring  frequently,  and  apply  undiluted.  A  similar  quantity  of 
soot  placed  in  a  bag,  and  treated  to  the  same  quintity  of  water, 
stirring  in  a  spideful  of  lime,  and  allow  the  mixture  to  clear,  forms  an 
admirable  stimulant,  improving  the  tone  of  the  foliage,  and  increasing 
the  colour  in  the  bloom-<.  Of  chemical  manures,  sui)erphosphate  may 
be  applied,  dissolving  half  an  ounce  in  a  gallon  of  water,  and  apply 
weekly  to  Rosea  outdoors  during 
the  summer.  It  may  be  varied  with 
sulphate  of  ammonia  or  nitrate  of 
soda,  each  half  ounce  to  the  gallon 
of  water,  but  use  them  separately. 
The  advertised  artificial  manures 
are  good,  and  may  be  used  in 
solution  at  the  rate  of  1  ounce  to 
2  gallons  of  water,  applying  weekly. 
Sulphate  of  ammonia  and  nitrate 
of  soda  ought  not  to  be  used  too 
frequently.  Their  action  is  very 
-stimulating. — Rosabian. 
Propagating  Roses  by  Cuttings. 
The  propagation  of  the  tenderer 
and  choicer  varieties  of  Tea  and 
Noisette  Roses  by  cuttings  is  an 
admirable  way  of  increasing  stock. 
Small  side  growths  having  well 
formed  leaves  and  partly  ripened 
wood  form  good  cuttings.  They 
should  be  taken  off  the  plant  with 
a  heel  of  the  old  wood  attached. 
•Growths  that  have  flowered  make 
suitable  cu' tings,  as  the  wood  is 
usually  in  the  right  condition,  being 
neither  too  sappy  nor  too  hard. 
The  cuttings  may  be  3  or  4  inches 
in  length,  and  should  have  at  least 
two  leaves  above  the  soil  when 
the  cutting  is  inserted.  In  the  first 
■instance  the  cutting  will  have  three 
leaves,  but  the  bottom  one  must  be 
removed  and  insert  to  the  next 
leaf,  that  is,  place  the  cutting  to 
such  a  depth  that  the  leaf  will 
rest  upon  the  soil.  Four  or  5-inch 
pots  are  a  suitable  size  for  the  cuttings,  which  are  best  placed  round 
the  edge,  four  to  six  cuttings  in  a  pot. 
Drain  the  pots  efiflcie  tly  with  a  few  crocks  and  some  turfy  pieces 
over  them  to  maintain  the  drainage  free  and  carry  away  superfluous 
water:  equal  parts  of  loam,  leaf  soil,  and  sand  should  form  the 
•compost.  Place  this  material  firmly  in  the  pot,  surfacing  with  sand 
and  dibble  in  the  cuttings,  taking  care  that  the  base  of  each  reaches 
■the  bottom  of  the  hole.  After  inserting,  give  a  good  watering  and 
place  the  pots  on  a  moist  base  in  a  greenhouse,  covering  with  a 
bell-glass,  or  in  a  box  or  frame  which  can  be  kept  closely  covered 
with  glass  until  roots  form.  Shade  will  he  essential  to  prevent 
the  leaves  flagging,  also  frequently  sprinkle  in  order  to  maintain 
them  fresh.  Dispel  damp  by  giving  air  occasionally,  and  wiping  the 
inside  of  the  glass. 
Where  a  little  gentle  bottom  heat  is  available  cuttings  of  Roses 
will  root  sooner,  though  it  is  a  good  plan  to  place  them  first  in  a  cool 
place,  so  that  the  base  of  the  cuttings  develops  a  callus,  then  with  the 
-stimulation  of  bottom  heat  roots  will  quickly  be  formed ;  but  they 
must  of  course  be  kept  dose  and  shaded.  Single  joints  of  well  ripened 
young  wood  may  be  propagated  readily  by  this  means.  The  gentle, 
regular  heat  and  moistnre  of  a  Cucumber  or  Melon  frame  is  most 
suitable.  When  roots  form  pot  the  plants  singly,  and  return  to  the 
frame  until  established,  after  which  gradually  harden  and  grow  in  a 
cool  greenhouse.  The  hardier  varieties  of  Roses  are  easily  propagated 
by  cuttings  of  ripe  growth  inserted  on  a  sheltered  north  border  or  in  a 
frame  in  autumn. — H.  T. 
Fig.  134. — Cypripedium  Chafmani  magnificum. 
Small  Fruits  on  Espaliers. 
When  one  considers  how  little  room  Gooseberries,  Currants,  an  1 
other  small  fruits  occupy  on  espaliers,  and  what  excellent  fruit  is 
produced,  one  begins  to  wonder  why  Apples  and  Pears  are  so  almost 
universally  grown  thereon  to  the  exclusion  of  the  more  suitable  fruits 
named ;  for  there  can  be  no  question  that  to  select  proper  varieties  of 
Apples  at  least,  to  plant  and  tend  thebn,  and  keep  them  in  thorough 
hiallh  and  bearing  on  espaliers,  is  more  difficult  than  most  gardeners 
care  to  own. 
The  man  who  contentedly  pinches  his  shoots  in  summer,  snips 
them  back  in  autumn,  and  is  satisfied  as  long  as  the  trees  are  young 
and  vig  irons,  thinks  it  is  very  easy,  and  if  he  fails  to  get  fruit  on  some 
of  the  finest  Apples  in  existence  when  treated  this  way  he  calmly 
blames  the  season  and  thinks  no  more  about  it.  But  let  any  thinking 
gardener  watch  trees  of,  say,  Cox’s  Orange  Pippin  when  they  are 
growing,  and  again  when  they  have  nearly  filled  their  allotted  space, 
let  him  note  the  younger  portions 
of  the  tree  with  its  fine  spurs  and 
fruit,  and  contrast  it  with  these 
parts  that  have  been  closely  pruned 
for  a  year  or  two,  and  it  will 
probably  lower  espaliers  in  his 
estimation,  especially  if  the  trees 
have  been  treated  on  the  orthodox 
rule-of-thumb  principle. 
Now  it  is  a  matter  of  no  small 
moment  to  have  to  root  up  as 
unprofitable  trees  that  if  judiciously 
treated  would  be  just  at  their 
prime,  and  while  I  would  not  go  so 
far  as  to  condemn  espaliers  for  these 
fruits  entirely,  I  am  sure  we  have 
far  too  many  of  them.  There  is  not 
one  variety  out  of  three  that  is 
really  suitable  for  growing  as 
restricted  trees,  and  a  year  or  two 
of  neglect  even  of  these  will  cause 
them  to  fall  into  such  disorder 
that  many  years  of  careful  treat¬ 
ment  are  necessary  to  restore  them. 
Had  these  been  trained  on  a 
fair  system  a  little  neglect  would  not 
so  much  matter  though  no  system 
will  stand  it  for  long.  I  would  like 
then  to  recommend  anyone  who 
wishes  to  make  the  utmost  use  of 
their  resources  to  plant  fewer 
Apples  and  more  Gooseberries  and 
Currants  in  any  position  where 
espaliers  are  necessary  or  can  be 
used.  A  Gooseberry  espalier  tree 
on  each  side  of  a  walk  some  40 
yards  long  has  been  planted  about 
four  years,  and  I  have  never  had 
cause  to  regret  planting  it.  The  amount  of  fruit  that  can  be  gathered 
is  out  of  all  comparison  with  that  of  bush  trees  when  the  quantity  of 
ground  is  considered. 
The  quality  of  the  fruit  too  is  always  the  best  of  its  kind,  the 
finely  flavoured  choice  dessert  varieties  coming  to  a  size  and  develop¬ 
ment  quite  unattainable  on  bush  trees.  The  roots  are  easily  got  at 
for  all  purposes  of  culture,  and  the  fruit  has  the  benefit  of  air  an<l 
light  to  the  fullest  extent.  As  an  instance  of  improvement  in  flavour 
1  would  mention  that  fine  variety  Telegraph.  On  bush  trees  as  a 
rule  it  is  not  of  the  best  quality  for  eating,  but  well  ripened  on 
trellises  it  is  above  the  average  and  good  enough  to  go  anywhere. 
Gooseberries  on  espaliers  have  the  distinct  advantage  over  wall 
trees  that  they  are  no  more  trouble  to  keep  free  of  insect  pests  than 
when  on  bushes,  rather  the  reverse,  while  on  walls  they  are  frequently 
eaten  up  with  red  spider,  especially  should  the  position  be  a  warm  one. 
Lata  fruit  of  such  varieties  as  Warrington  may  be  readily  protected 
from  birds,  and  the  fruit  at  all  stages  is  easily  gathered.  Thinning 
for  preserving  is  therefore  an  easy  matter. 
Turning  to  Currants  much  the  same  benefits  accrue,  very  fine  and 
splendidly  finished  fruit  following  well  considered  culture.  In  this 
connection  it  may  be  well  to  note  that  when  the  fruit  is  expected  to 
hang  late  in  the  season  it  is  not  advisable  to  pinch  the  breistwood  too 
closely.  I  am  referring  more  particularly  to  red  varieties.  The 
additional  leafage  is  an  advantage,  as  it  serves  to  k  jep  the  fruit  a  little 
cooler  under  a  hot  July  sun,  and  by  ripening  tslowiy,  it  develops  fine 
colour,  size,  and  flavour. 
