504 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
June  14',  1900. 
at  this  early  period  of  the  year  have  fronds  upwards  of  4  feet  in 
height.  A  rockery  without  Saxifragas  would  scarcely  be  worthy  of 
the  name,  and  at  Kew  there  are  many  in  full  flower.  Some  produce 
minute  blooms  that  almost  require  a  magnifying  glass  to  show  their 
charms ;  while  others  have  bold  leaves  and  strikingly  handsome  flowers, 
whose  efl^ectiveness  can  be  appreciated  as  well  from  a  distance  as  at 
close  quarters.  Then,  too,  there  are  Geraniums,  Dianthi,  Lychnis, 
Phloxes,  and  a  host  of  others  that  cannot  be  named  at  the  present 
moment ;  a  few  have  been  chosen,  and  they  must  suffice  for  the  time, 
and  others  will  be  enumerated  as  the  season  advances. 
The  Rhododendron  dell  is  now  just  passing  its  moment  of  greatest 
beauty.  The  plants,  large  and  small,  have  flowered  magnificently,  and 
the  cool  walks  have  proved  a  constant  source  of  attraction  to  visitors. 
The  hardy  Azaleas  have  been  superb,  and  the  large  plants  have  been 
literally  smothered  with  blooms.  An  immense  bed  of  Lilacs  has  taught 
many  a  useful  lesson  as  to  the  seasons  of  flowering,  while  the  various 
Laburnums  have  proved  to  demonstration  that  all  the  varieties  at  Kew 
are  not  good.  In  one  place  we  see  a  tree  bathed  in  golden  chains,  and 
in  another  a  specimen  that  over  its  whole  extent  of  branches  had  not 
more  than  a  dozen  puny  racemes.  But  we  will  return  to  Kew 
again.— F.  W.  H. 
-  - - 
Tuberons-rooted  Begonias. 
Tuberous  rooted  Begonias  have,  during  the  past  few  years,  been 
making  steady  progress  in  the  flower  garden,  and  they  are  admitted 
by  all  who  have  attempted  their  culture  in  open  beds  during  the 
summer  and  autumn  months  to  he  unique.  It  is  a  step,  too,  I  Rel 
sure,  in  the  right  direction,  as  by  its  adoption  we  see  less  of  the  vivid 
glare  which  has  too  often  occupied  the  greater  part  of  many  summer 
beds.  The  formality  of  the  design,  too,  is  somewhat  avoided,  for 
happily  we  cannot  pinch  and  pick,  in  other  words  mutilate  the  Begonia 
so  as  to  form  it  into  any  set  design,  .^o  that  it  must  be  allowed  to  grow 
naturally  to  see  it  in  perfection.  When  thus  seen  they  may  be  said 
to  constitute  one  of  the  moet  enjoyable  floral  arrangements  which  any 
garden  can  contain.  The  Begonia  delights  in  a  free,  bght,  sandy,  and 
fertile  loam,  and  commences  flowering  almost  from  the  first  joint, 
continuing  successively  to  produce  its  many  coloured  blossoms  till 
checked  by  autumn  frost.  Those  who  desire  an  attractive  bed  should 
never  select  the  hiige-flowered  varieties,  which  are  better  for  pots  in 
the  conservatory,  or  for  exhibition. 
The  simplest  means  of  obtaining  a  stock  of  Begonias  is  from 
seeds,  which  is  easily  managed  provided  the  following  rules  be  adhered 
to.  Firstly,  the  soil,  when  the  seed  is  sown,  should  be  sufficiently 
dry  to  pass  through  a  sieve  of  three-eighths  of  an  inch  mesh  with¬ 
out  clogging,  then  three  parts  fill  thoroughly  drained  pots,  making 
the  surface  even  and  very  firm,  sprinkle  a  little  white  sand  on  this 
to  mark  where  the  seed  falls,  and  thus  avoid  sowing  too  thickl3q  in 
which  case  many  decay.  Secondly,  after  sowing  the  seed  scatter  very 
lightly  from  a  wire  gauze  sieve  (or  if  this  be  not  at  hand  the  fine  rose 
of  a  watering  can  1  have  found  an  excellent  substitute)  a  little  dry 
silver  sand,  so  as  to  barely  cover  the  seeds,  after  which  plunge  the  pots 
or  pans  in  slight  bottom  heat,  say  about  60'^,  and  cover  with  a  piece 
of  glass.  If  the  soil  is  in  the  rignt  state  they  will  not  require  water¬ 
ing  for  three  or  four  days,  keeping  the  pots  at  this  stage  quite  dark, 
as  by  so  doing  watering  is  dispensed  with,  for  after  all  the  watering 
pot  is  the  greatest  enemy  in  the  raising  of  Begonias  from  seed. 
The  seed  should  be  barely  covered  ;  in  fact  some  growers  do  not 
cover  it  at  all.  I  have  frequently  adopted  the  same  practice  with  equal 
success;  but  knowing  the  great  losses  attending  the  injudicious  use  of 
the  watering  pot,  I  nearly  always  cover  it  as  above  described,  and  thus 
avoid  the  seed  being  displaced  when  vegetating,  which  is  sure  to  end 
fatally.  Watering,  I  may  observe,  should  never  be  done  till  the 
seedlings  have  their  second  leaf.  What  appears  to  suit  the  seed  best, 
and  which  falls  very  lightly  on  them,  is  the  spray  from  the  syringe 
given  at  a  distance,  and  settling  on  the  seed  pots  much  as  a  thick 
misty  rain.  Thirdly,  when  the  seedlings  are  up  always  avoid  incessant 
sprinklings  over  the  foliage.  This  is  highly  detrimental  and  often 
fatal  to  them,  consequent  upon  their  extremely  succulent  nature  at  this 
time._  When  they  have  reached  the  second  and  third  leaf  a  lighter 
position  near  the  glass  will  suit  them,  where  the}'  will  soon  make  head¬ 
way^  and  be  ready  for  planting,  having  been  thoroughly  hardened 
previously,  and  of  course  pricked  ofif  into  boxes  or  pans  in  the  usual 
way  of  small  seedlings. 
The  other  means  of  increasing  this  section  of  Begonias  to  which  I 
shall  refer  is  by  cuttings.  It  is  by  this  means  that  the  best  forms  of 
singles  and  all  the  doubles  are  propagated,  and  which  can  only  he 
performed  where  good  tubers  exist,  capable  of  throwing  up  several 
strong  growths.  In  adopting  this  method,  and  to  avoid  overcrowding 
and  the  consequent  damping  ofif,  the  cuttings  should  be  inserted  singly 
in  small  thumb  pots,  using  rough  fibrous  leaf  soil  and  plenty  of  shaip 
grit,  passing  all  through  a  half-inch  sieve,  well  rubbing  the  fibre 
through.  The  soil  ready,  the  next  thing  is  the  cuttings,  and  this  is 
how  I  get  them  : — Taking  half  a  dozen  3-inch  pots  and  as  many  labels,  I 
seh  ct  the  strongest  and  forwarde^t  plants,  bavin.'  cuttings  3  or  4  inches 
long;  these  I  detach  with  a  sharp  kni^^e  close  to  the  tuber,  securing, 
where  possible  a  slice  of  bark  and  a  heel  as  well  to  the  cut'ing.* 
Such  cuttings  as  these  are  almost  sure  to  form  roots  readily  with 
judicious  management.  Tho.se,  however,  that  cinnot  be  obtained  in 
this  way  should  be  taken  off  as  close  to  the  tuber  as  possible,  and 
w'here  the  naturally  succulent  growth  is  somewhat  firmer.  These 
latter,  though  by  no  means  difficult  to  root,  require  the  greater  care. 
Having  filled  half  a  dozen  pots,  take  them  to  the  potting  sherl,  potting 
them  singly  and  labelling  each  one,  defining  the  singles  from  doubles 
by  placing  the  first  letter  of  each  word  on  the  label  as  the  case  may 
require.  When  all  are  complete,  plunge  them  into  bottom  heat  of 
60°  or  65°,  but  on  no  account  water  them  for  the  first  two  or  three  days.. 
It  is  the  orthodox  practice  to  water  cuttings  newly  inserted  at  once, 
and,  generally  Speaking,  wnth  softwooded  plants  it  is  the  right  way  to 
prevent  flagging.  The  Begonia,  however,  is  extremely  succulent,  the 
stems  being  capable  of  sustainmg  themselves  for  days,  even  in  a 
cutting  state,  without  water,  and  sometimes  longer,  provided  they  are 
plunged  in  damp  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  and  kept  comparatively  close. 
By  the  third  or  fourth  day  the  cuttings  will  have  begun  to  heal ;  in 
other  words,  be  in  the  first  stage  of  forming  a  callus.  When  this  stage 
is  passed  the  danger  is  considerably  lessened,  and  presuming  the  soil 
is  dry  on  account  of  the  heat  in  the  propagating  house,  a  good 
watering  may  be  given,  leaving  the  lights  off  for  three  or  four  hours 
till  the  foliage  is  quite  dry. 
This  watering  under  the  circumstances  I  have  described  should 
last  them  five  or  six  days,  according  to  the  weather  at  the  time,  after 
which  all  that  are  dry  are  best  taken  out  singly  and  watered,  for  it  is 
not  an  easy  matter  to  direct  a  volume  of  water  to  any  particular  pot 
in  the  propagating  case  without  Witting  others.  By  taking  them 
singly  as  described,  each  may  be  watered  effectually  without  damping 
ahaf,  athing  to  be  desired  when  propagating  these  Begonias  from 
cuttings.  After  the  tenth  day  air  may  be  admitted  by  degrees, 
according  to  the  progress  of  the  cuttings,  thus  keeping  them  short  and 
of  sturdy  growth,  as,  by  being  essentially  greenhouse  plants,  they 
soon  become  drawn  and  weakly  if  kept  too  warm  or  too  close.  In 
three  weeks  or  a  month  the  majority  will  be  well  rooted,  and  having 
been  exposed  in  the  house  for  a  few  days  may  be  placed  in  4-inch 
pots.  These  will  carry  them  through  the  first  season,  one  of  the  chief 
points  being  to  secure  a  sound  tuber  by  the  autumn. — F. 
- -  - •  ^  » - — - - - 
Notes  on  Figs. 
Early  forced  trees  require  generous  treatment  after  the  first  crops 
are  gathered  to  enable  them  to  swell  the  second  crop.  Syringe  twice 
a  day  to  keep  red  spider  in  check,  employing  an  insecticide  if  necessary, 
but  not  such  as  will  discolour  the  fruit,  which  is  easily  done  by  any 
corrosive  substance,  and  frequently  by  rubbing  with  the  hand.  Afford 
liquid  manure  when  watering  is  necessary,  trees  in  pots  requiring  it 
daily,  semetimes  twice  a  day  ;  and  trees  in  borders  once  or  twice  a 
week,  according  to  the  extent  of  the  rooting  area.  The  second  crop 
should  be  thinned  before  the  fruit  is  the  size  of  Walnuts,  and  in  thinning 
reserve  the  largest  at  the  base  of  the  shoots.  Trees  in  pots  require 
top-dressing  with  rich  material,  malt  culms  added  to  loam  being 
excellent,  supplying  a  little  fertiliser  occasionally.  Planted-out  trees 
should  be  mulched  with  short,  sweet,  lumpy,  partially  decayed  manure 
about  an  inch  thick,  renewing  from  time  to  time,  so  as  to  maintain  that 
thickness. 
When  the  fruit  on  trees  in  succession  houses  oommeuces  to  ripen  a 
free  circulation  of  air  must  be  afforded,  and  it  should  be  warm,  as 
cold  air-moisture  settles  on  the  fruit  and  may  cause  decay  or  result  in 
“  spot.”  Attend  to  tying-in  and  regulating  the  shoots  by  thinning  and 
stopping,  so  as  to  afford  the  fruit  the  benefit  of  all  the  light  practicable. 
The  moisture  in  the  atmosphere  will  need  to  be  moderated,  not  wetting 
the  fruit,  though  if  red  spider  attacks  the  trees  the  fruit  should  be 
gathered  rather  closely  and  a  good  syringing  given,  which  will  not 
injure  the  remaining  fruit  provided  it  is  done  early  on  a  fine  day,  so 
that  the  moisture  does  not  remain  long  on  them.  Do  not  allow  any 
lack  of  moisture  at  the  roots,  yet  guard  against  excessive  watering, 
affording  lessened  supplies  of  water  than  when  the  fruits  are  swelling. 
Trees  for  next  year’s  early  forcing  in  pots  must  not  be  neglected  in 
any  cultural  essential  or  disappointment  will  be  the  consequence. 
They  must  have  all  the  light  possible,  and  be  kept  as  near  the  glass  as 
practicable,  without  touching,  so  as  to  secure  sturdy  well-ripened 
growth,  keeping  them  clean  by  syringing  and  the  application  of  an 
insecticide  if  necessary,  and  affording  liquid  manui’e  to  effect  a  stout 
growth.  Suckers  must  be  removed,  keeping  every  plant  to  a  single 
stem.  When  the  growth  is  completed  the  trees  may  be  stood  outdoors 
in  a  sunny  spot  to  induce  rest,  but  the  wood  must  be  well  ripened 
previously,  and  the  sooner  the  better  for  early  forcing.  If  any  fruit 
shows  it  should  be  removed.  This  will  not  prejudice  but  favour  the 
formation  of  bud  Pigs  in  embryo  for  producing  the  first  and  most 
valuable  crop  another  season. — Grower. 
