518 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
June  14,  1900. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  naatters  should  be 
directed  to  “  The  Editor,”  12,  nxitre  Court  Chambers, 
Fleet  Street,  Xondon,  E.C.  It  is  requested  that  no  one 
will  write  privately  to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking 
information  on  matters  discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so 
subjects  them  to  unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and  depart¬ 
mental  writers  are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters  they 
may  receive  on  Gardening  and  Bee  subjects  through  the  post. 
If  information  be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from  any 
particular  authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be  made 
to  obtain  It  by  the  Editor.  Letters  of  inquiry  must  be  accom¬ 
panied  by  the  names  and  addresses  of  the  writers,  but  these  will 
neither  be  published  nor  disclosed  when  initials  or  noms  de  plume 
are  given  for  the  purpose  of  replies. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  it  is  convenient  when 
each  question  is  written  on  a  separate  sheet.  All  articles  intended 
for  Insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only  ;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
Thinning  Grapes  (I.  F.). — An  article  on  this  subject  will  appear  in 
an  early  issue,  probably  next  week. 
Peaches  Mildewed  (A.  A.  T.). — The  spots  on  the  Peaches  should  be 
rubbed  with  flowers  of  sulphur,  and  the  trees  afterwards  dusted  in 
every  part,  preferably  by  means  of  a  bellows  apparatus.  This  must  be 
done  without  delay,  as  the  skin  once  injured  by  the  parasite  seldom 
heals  over,  or  a  dark  patch  is  formed  and  the  fruit  swells  irregularly. 
It  is  desirable  to  allow  the  sulphur  to  remain  on  for  a  few  days  before 
again  having  recourse  to  syringing.  The  mildew  is  induced  by  a  cold 
and  dry  condition  of  the  atmosphere,  especially  cold  draughts,  the 
conditions  prevailing  this  spring  being  favourable  to  the  fungus. 
Tomato  Loaves  Diseased  (Idem). — The  leaves  are  infested  by  the 
spot  fungus,  Cladosporium  fulvum  or  lycopersici,  which  is  usually  due 
to  a  close  and  somewhat  moist  atmosphere.  There  is  no  trace  of  the 
Potato  disease  fungus,  Phytophthora  infestans.  The  remedy  is  to, 
in  the  early  part  of  the  afternoon  of  a  fine  day,  allow  the 
temperature  to  rise  to  100°,  or  even  110°,  the  latter  being  fatal  to  the 
parasites,  and  the  Tomato  plants  are  not  materially  prejudiced.  The 
house  should  be  kept  close  for  a  couple  or  three  hours,  and  then  air 
admitted,  so  as  to  allow  the  heat  and  moisture  to  escape.  It  is  neces¬ 
sary  to  maintain  a  buoyant  atmosphere,  ventilating  early  in  the  day, 
or  rather  increasing  it,  for  a  little  should  be  left  on  constantly  at  the 
top  of  the  house,  and  this  with  a  gentle  warmth  in  the  hot-water  pipes 
in  dull  periods  will  prevent  a  stagnant  atmosphere.  The  worst  infested 
leaves  should  be  removed  and  burnt. 
Vines  Cleared  of  their  Crops  (Young  Gardener). — Syringe  the  Vines 
occasionally  to  keep  the  foliage  clean,  afford  water  to  render  the  soil 
moist,  ^  and  supply  an  occasional  top-dressing  of  fertiliser.  A  light 
mulching  will  keep  the  soil  from  cracking,  as  well  as  prevent  the  roots 
going  down  in  quest  of  moisture.  Allow  a  moderate  extension  of  the 
laterals,  but  do  not  permit  them  to  interfere  with  the  principal  leaves. 
Some  lateral  extension  is  absolutely  necessary  to  prevent  the  starting 
of  the  main  buds  aud  the  premature  ripening  of  the  foliage.  There  is 
no  fear  of  the  wood  not  ripening,  the  difficulty  is  in  the  opposite 
direction — loss  of  foliage  and  starting  into  growth  instead  of  going  to 
rest  in  late  summer.  Ventilate  freely  when  the  temperature  rises 
above  60°. 
Carnation  “Grass”  Diseased  (J.  J.).- — ^The  “grass”  is  affected  by 
the  complaint  known  as  “  withering,”  the  leaves  dying  back  from  the 
points  or  edges,  or  even  from  the  base.  In  some  cases  there  is  present 
the  spot  fungus,  Septoria  dianthi,  but  in  many  the  microscope 
does  not  reveal  even  so  much  as  a  trace  of  this  or  another  harmful 
agent.  For  this  reason  the  disease  has  been  held  to  be  constitutional. 
The  best,  and,  indeed,  only  remedy  and  preventive  is  the  prompt 
removal  of  affected  plants  and  burning  them.  Spraying  with  diluted 
Bordeaux  mixture  has  been  advised,  but  the  application  spoils  the 
appearance  of  the  leaves.  The  better  way  is  to  accord  such  treatment 
as  conduces  to  a  sturdy  habit.  In  the  case  of  plants  liable  to  have 
weak  “  grass  ”  a  pinch  of  common  salt  applied  occasionally  to  each 
6-inch  pot,  sprinkling  on  the  surface  and  washed  in  as  in  the  ordinary 
course  of  watering,  tends  to  solidify  the  growth  and  render  it  more 
disease  resistant,  not  applying  more  frequently  than  every  six  weeks. 
Spots  on  Vine  Leaves  (S.  S.  H.  Wight). — The  spots  are  occasioned 
by  a  very  mild  form  of  ihe  Grape  anthraonose  fungus,  Sphaceloma 
ampelinum.  As  the  fungus  progresses  the  growth  of  the  leaf  is  checked, 
the  parts  withering  or  sometimes  falling  out,  leaving  the  leaf  in  holes, 
or  in  bad  cases  the  leaves  wholly  wither.  The  fungus  attacks  all  the 
green  parts  of  the  Vines,  and  the  light-coloured  and  white  Grapes  are 
the  ones  most  affected,  but  it  seldom  infests  the  berries  in  this  country. 
The  fungus  has  been  successfully  prevented  on  the  continent  by 
dressing  the  Vines  early  in  spring,  before  the  buds  Start,  with  a  solution 
of  copperas  (iron  sulphate),  1  lb.  to  a  gallon  of  water,  applying  with  a 
brush  to  the  rods,  canes,  and  spurs.  In  case  the  disease  appears  a 
powder  composed  of  equal  parts  of  sulphur  and  lime  may  be  dusted  on, 
and  this  we  advise  at  present,  applying  with  a  bellows  apparatus  such 
as  the  Malbeo.  The  advertised  fungicides  in  powder  are  also  good  for 
the  purpose.  A  free  admission  of  air,  especially  in  the  early  part  of 
the  day  without  causing  draughts,  with  gentle  warmth  in  the  hot-water 
pipes,  so  as  to  maintain  a  circulation  of  air,  and  prevent  the  deposition 
of  moisture  on  the  gieen  parts  of  the  Vines,  is  useful  in  preventing 
the  development  of  the  spores  of  the  fungus,  as  well  as  fortifying  the 
epidermal  tissues  against  the  inroads  of  the  parasite.  As  the  foliage  is 
thin  and  light  coloured  we  should  use  a  little  fertiliser,  selecting  from 
the  advertised  preparations  and  applying  according  to  the  instructions. 
'  Acacia  grandis  (H,  Browne). — This  is  a  very  dwarf  West  Australian 
species,  and  flowers  freely  when  small.  It  is  a  most  charming  window 
plant  for  spring  flowering,  being  at  that  season  lop,ded  with  its  golden 
yellow  balls,  and  at  all  periods  of  the  year  its  elegant  foliage  gives  it  an 
ornamental  character.  Its  propagation  is  effected  either  by  seeds  or 
cuttings,  usually  by  the  latter  method ;  they  should  be  inserted  in 
white  sand  or  very  sandy  soil,  and  covered  with  a  bell-glass  or  tumbler. 
As  they  are  impatient  of  damp  they  require  a  little  more  care  during 
the  rooting  process  than  those  of  the  leafless  species  ;  the  inside  of  the 
glass  should  be  wiped  daily,  and  as  soon  as  the  cuttings  are  rooted  they 
must  be  potted  in  sandy  peat,  and  eventually  in  good  fibrous  peat, 
containing  less  sand. 
Stephanotis  floribunda  (Amateur). — Although  this  plant  does  not 
need  shade,  a  slight  covering  is  beneficial  during  the  hottest  part  of  the 
day  through  the  flowering  season.  It  prevents  the  flowers  opening  too 
rapidly,  and  they  also  last  in  good  condition  for  a  longer  period.  Plants 
that  are  trained  under  the  roof  and  are  growing  rapidly  should  have  the 
young  shoots  drawn  out  and  allowed  to  hang  down.  Some  attention  is 
needed  two  or  three  times  a  week,  or  the  shoots  soon  become  twisted 
together.  This  method  allows  of  the  main  shoots  being  trained  more 
closely  under  the  roof.  The  shoots  that  hang  from  the  roof  flower 
profusely,  and  the  plant  can  be  kept  much  cleaner  by  a  free  use  of  the 
syringe  than  when  the  whole  of  the  growths  are  closely  trained  together 
under  the  roof.  From  the  present  time  plants  that  are  in  full  activity 
should  not  be  kept  too  warm,  close,  or  moist.  A  temperature  of  60°  at 
night  will  be  ample  with  a  liberal  application  of  air  during  the  day, 
this  will  insure  firm  growth  that  will  flower  well.  If  the  plants  are 
grown  in  pots  and  crowded  with  roots  a  surface  dressing  of  decayed 
manure  will  prove  beneficial. 
