June  21,  1900. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
541 
Fillbaskefc,  and  Menfcmore.  Messrs.  R.  Smith  &  Son,  Worcester,  con¬ 
tributed  a  group  of  miscellaneous  plants,  amongst  which  were  some 
Clematis  on  balloon  trellises,  including  Mrs.  James  Bateman,  Beauty  of 
Worcester,  and  Enchantress.  Messrs.  W.  Cutbush  &  Son  arranged  a 
line  group  with  a  background  of  Crimson  Rambler  Roses  and 
Hydrangea  panicnlata  grandiflora ;  the  Malmaisons  included  Lady 
Ulrica,  Thora,  Lord  Welby,  Mrs.  Trelawyn,  Baldwin,  Jane  Seymour, 
and  The  Shah,  Lady  Ulrica  is  a  splendid  deep  flesh  pink.  Cecelia,  the 
Yellow  Tree,  and  Duke  of  York  were  also  fine.  Messrs.  Kelway  &  Son, 
Langport,  had  a  group  of  Pseonies,  including  the  Queen,  Lady  Curzon, 
and  Portia.  Pyrethrums  and  Delphiniums  added  to  the  display  made  by 
the  Somerset  firm.  Messrs.  Webb  &  Sons,  Wordsley,  Stourbridge,  had  a 
stand  of  tuberous-rooted  Begonias  and  Gloxinias,  with  the  new  Pea 
Pioneer  on  a  wire  trellis.  Messrs.  Dicksons’,  Ltd.,  Chester,  had  a 
really  fine  display  of  English  and  Spanish  Irises  in  great  variety,  with 
Heuchera  sanguinea,  Allium  rosenm.  Aster  alpinus  roseus,  Centaurea 
montana  rubra.  Campanula  glcnierata,  Hesperia  matronalis,  fl.-pl.,  and 
the  Ixiolirion  tataricnm,  Achillea  mongolica,  and  many  beautiful 
Pyrethrums.  Messrs.  H.  Low  &  Co.,  Bush  Hill  Park,  contributed 
Orchids  in  their  customary  excellent  style. — F.  Street. 
- - 
Hardy  Frnit  Garden. 
Summer  Pruning. — The  summer  pinching  or  pruning  of  fruit  trees 
is  only  carried  out  on  trained  wall  trees,  and  those  in  the  open 
restricted  to  a  certain  shape.  If  some  means  were  not  adopted  to 
maintain  them  in  the  forms  intended,  and  at  the  same  time  cause 
them  to  produce  fruit,  they  would  quickly  go  their  owu  way,  and  then 
being  cut  back  to  the  shapes  desired  would  develop  more  and  stronger 
growths,  usually  resulting  in  fruitlessness.  By  summer  pinching 
the  energies  of  the  trees  are  concentrated  in  feeding  a  few  buds 
instead  of  being  wasted  on  a  number  of  extension  growths,  which 
would  eventually  be  removed. 
Summer  pruning  may  commence  when  the  lower  leaves  of  the 
young  shoots  are  attaining  their  full  size ;  the  foliage  is  then  able  to 
do  its  full  share  of  important  work.  Superfluous  energy  is  worked  off 
by  the  shortened  shoots  pushing  their  upper  buds  into  growth,  and 
these  may  be  pinched  to  one  leaf  as  made.  As  a  rule  summer  pruning 
does  not  all  require  to  be  done  at  once,  but  is  best  carried  out  gradually. 
Commence  with  the  vigorous  parts  of  a  tree,  these  usually  being 
situated  near  the  top.  The  weakest  shoots  are  at  the  bottom, 
and  they  will  take  no  harm  if  allowed  to  grow  and  strengthen  a 
short  time  longer.  The  work  may  extend  over  a  period  of  two  or 
three  weeks. 
Gooseierries  and  Currants. — These  ought  first  to  have  attention. 
Gooseberries  trained  in  cordon  form  to  walls,  fences  and  wires,  and  not 
those  in  bush  form,  require  the  most  attention.  Red  and  White 
Currants,  in  whatever  shape  they  are  grown,  need  systematic  summer 
pruning.  The  main  branches  are  always  cordons,  and  the  summer 
growths,  without  exception,  are  closely  spurred-in  in  winter.  Summer 
pruning  is  very  essential  to  make  Red  and  White  Currants  profitable, 
as  a  thicket  of  shoots  is  in  most  cases  made,  and  these  must  be 
shortened,  so  as  to  admit  light  and  air — not  only  for  developing  the 
buds,  but  to  assist  the  ripening  and  improve  the  fiavour  of  the  fruit. 
The  bulk  of  the  bunches  are  borne  on  the  spurs,  from  among  which  the 
summer  shoots  spring.  Gooseberries  grow  similarly.  Shorten  both 
these  and  Currants  to  three  pairs  of  leaves.  Remove  altogether  any 
weak  or  unnecessary  shoots,  and  take  out  suckers  and  growths  springing 
from  the  ground,  and  which  tend  to  crowd  bush  Currants,  unless  they 
have  clean  stems  a  foot  from  the  ground. 
Apricots.  —  The  shoots  of  Apricots  that  may  be  pinched  and 
encouraged  to  form  spurs  are  those  tor  which  no  room  can  be  found 
when  laying  in  a  stock  of  young  summer  shoots.  Apricots  bear  as  well 
on  the  latter  as  on  spurs.  The  most  convenient  shoots  for  laying-in 
start  from  the  side  of  the  secondary  branches.  These,  however,  if  not 
wanted  are  unsuitable  to  shorten  for  forming  spurs.  In  that  case 
entirely  lemove  them.  The  foreright  shoots,  or  those  that  grow  straight 
out  from  the  vvall,  are  best  for  the  latter  purpose,  but  unsuitable  to 
lay -in.  With  plenty  of  young  wood  spurs  are  not  essential,  hence  avoid 
originating  them  to  crowd  the  trees  unnecessarily. 
Plums  and  Cherries. — Plnms  and  Sweet  Cherries  on  walls,  or  grown 
in  pyramidal  or  bush  form,  must  have  the  summer  shoots  pinched  to 
three  or  four  leaves.  In  old  trees  vacancies  may  occur  which  require  to 
be  filled.  In  order  to  do  this  lay -in  young  shoots,  giving  them  plenty 
of  space.  These  will  bear  the  second  year.  It  is  not  desirable,  as  a 
rule,  to  crowd  the  trees  with  young  wood. 
Morello  Cherries  are  treated  differently,  the  method  adopted  with 
Apricots  being  suitable  for  them,  though  young  shoots  may  be  more 
freely  laid  in.  Only  a  limited  number  of  shoots  should  be  shortened 
for  spurs,  and  these  ought  to  be  well  situated. 
Apples  and  Pears. — These  may  be  pruned  the  last,  but  in  the 
majority  of  cases  spread  the  operation  over  two  or  three  weeks. 
The  upper  shoots  of  the  trees  grow  strongly,  while  the  lower  are 
weakly.  Very  late  summer  pruning,  or  not  pruning  at  all  until 
winter,  weakens  all  the  lower  spurs  considerably,  hence  the  import¬ 
ance  of  stopping  strong  shoots  early  wherever  they  are  situated.  In 
addition  to  this  summer  stopping  barren  or  attenuated  spurs  can  be 
removed  from  trees  it  is  desired  to  improve,  and  some  efforts  made  to 
reduce  crowded  shoots,  especially  in  the  centres  of  pyramids  and 
bushes. 
Strawberries. — Walering  and  Feeding. — Copious  waterings  as  well  as 
mulching  are  needed  in  light  dry  soils  to  bring  the  crop  to  maturity. 
Plenty  of  liquid  manure  may  also  be  given  during  the  time  the  berries 
are  swelling,  discontinuing  when  ripe.  The  drainings  from  stables 
and  farmyards  constitute  the  best  food  which  can  be  applied. 
Netting  and  Protecting  Ripe  Fruit. — As  soon  as  the  berries  com¬ 
mence  to  colour  birds  find  out  the  fruits  and  soon  spoil  the  choicest. 
Fish  netting  should,  therefore,  be  laid  over  the  beds  as  a  protection. 
Heavy  trusses  of  fruit  ought  to  be  supported  by  forked  sticks  or  some 
contrivance  to  raise  them  above  the  ground,  especially  if  the  surface 
of  the  mulching  is  not  clean  and  dry. 
Layering. — Where  Strawberries  are  grown  in  pots  for  forcing  it  is 
an  advantage  to  root  some  runners  early.  The  plantlets  with  roots 
just  showing  may  be  secured  on  the  surface  of  the  soil  filled  firmly 
into  ^-inch  pots.  Secure  them  in  position  with  a  hooked  peg  or  a 
stone,  partly  plunge  the  pots  m  the  soil,  and  keep  regularly  watered 
until  established  and  then  cut  the  runner  wires. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Early  House. — The  fruit  will  shortly  be 
all  gathered,  therefore  admit  all  the  air  possible  by  day  and  by  night. 
If  the  roof-'ights  of  the  earliest  house  are  movable,  take  them  off 
after  the  trees  have  had  full  ventilation  for  a  fortnight,  and  keep  the 
foliage  free  from  insects  by  forcible  syringings.  If  there  be  any  red 
spider  use  a  solution  of  softsoap  2  ozs.  to  a  gallon  of  water ;  if  scale 
be  present  employ  paraffin  oil,  adding  a  wineglassful  to  4  gallons  of 
wa'er,  with  which  has  been  added  1  oz.  of  washing  soda  and  4  ozs.  of 
softsoap.  The  soda  and  soap  should  be  thoroughly  dissolved  in  a  quart 
of  water  by  boiling,  and  the  paraffin  added  whilst  boiling  hot,  but 
removed  from  the  fire,  stirring  briskly  till  amalgamated,  then  add  the 
remainder  of  the  water  hot,  and  apply  at  a  temperature  of  130°  to  135° 
with  a  fine  rose  syringe,  or  preferably  a  sprayer. 
Keep  the  borders  well  watered,  affording  liquid  manure  to  weakly 
trees,  which  helps  them  to  plump  the  buds,  and  mulch  with  short 
manure.  Cut  away  the  wood  that  has  borne  fruit  to  the  shoot  at  the 
base  intended  to  bear  fruit  next  season,  unless  the  shoot  is  required  for 
extension.  If  there  be  a  superfiuity  of  growths, remove  them  now;  they 
only  keep  air  and  light  from  the  principal  foliage  and  hinder  cleansing 
operations.  Keep  laterals  and  any  good  shoots  closely  stopped. 
Houses  with  Fruit  Ripening. — The  trees  must  not  be  syringed,  but 
moderate  moisture  should  be  maintained  until  the  fruit  is  ripe.  Water 
must  also  be  given  liberally  at  the  roots.  Admit  air  abundantly.  In 
gathering  Peaches  great  care  is  necessary,  as  the  least  pressure  makes  a 
mark  and  spoils  their  appearance.  A  piece  of  wadding  should  bo  held 
in  the  hand,  and  the  fruit  removed,  then  laid  gently  in  a  padded  basket 
or  trav.  A  cool  and  airy  fruit  room  is  the  best  place  to  keep  Peaches 
and  Nectarines  in  after  they  are  gathered. 
Trees  Swelling  their  Crops. — When  the  stoning  is  over  the  trees 
will  endure  strong  heat  without  fear  of  the  fruit  falling.  Afford  tepid 
liquid  manure  to  the  roots  of  trees  carrying  full  crops,  and  otherwise 
not  too  vigorous.  Be  careful  in  giving  liquid  manure  to  very  vigorous 
trees,  as  it  tends  to  over-luxuriance,  and  may  interfere  with  setting  and 
stoning  in  the  succeeding  year.  Still,  liberal  treatment  is  necessary, 
such  as  light  surface  mulchings  and  copious  waterings  every  week  or 
ten  days  in  well  drained  borders.  Syringe  twice  a  day  to  keep  down 
red  spider;  ventilate  early,  keep  the  temperature  at  7d°  to  75°  through 
the  day,  80°  to  85‘'  with  sun  heat,  and  close  sufficiently  early  to 
increase  it  to  90°.  This,  with  abundance  of  moisture  in  the  house,  will 
insure  large  fruit,  and  if  ventilation  is  given  before  nightfall  and 
increased  early  in  the  morning  all  will  be  well ;  but  if  a  close  and  moist 
atmosphere  be  maintained  with  high  temperature,  the  fruit,  though 
large,  will  lack  flavour. 
Keep  the  fruit  with  the  apex  to  the  light,  laths  across  the  trellis 
will  admit  of  this  being  done,  and  clear  away  the  leaves  from  the  fruit, 
but  do  not  remove  them  if  it  can  be  avoided.  When  approaching 
ripening  cease  syringing,  admit  air  freely,  and  60°  to  65°  at  night  will 
be  a  sufficientlv  high  temperature  or  artificially  in  the  daytime,  unless 
it  is  wished  to  accelerate  the  ripening,  when  it  should  range  from  70° 
to  75°,  with  a  rise  of  10°  from  sun  heat. 
