/)')« 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
.Tnne  28,'  1900.  ■. 
SO  that  they  will  have  space  for  swelling  without  wedging  when  of  full 
size,  and  yet  be  so  close  that  when  dished  they  will  retain  their  form. 
Loose  bunches  that  show  the  footstalks  are  not  so  pleasing,  however  fine 
the  berries,  as  those  more  compact.  Shy-setting  varieties  are  often 
thin  of  berries  through  the  number  of  stoneless  ones  that  must  be 
removed,  to  guard  against  which  no  pains  should  be  spared  in  getting 
the  wood  ripe  and  in  fertilising  the  bunches  when  in  flower  with  Black 
Hamburgh  pollen  or  that  of  other  free-setting  sorts.  A  pound  of 
Grapes  per  foot  run  of  rod  is  usually  as  many  as  most  Vines  can  finish 
well. 
Regulating  the  Groivths. — Allow  all  foliage  to  remain  that  can  have 
full  exposure  to  light,  but  when  the  space  is  fairly  covered  with  leaves 
keep  the  shoots  closely  pinched.  An  excess  of  foliage  is  not  good, 
though  it  is  often  encouraged  with  a  view  to  root  action,  but  it  is 
elaborated  juices  that  build  up  the  structures  of  the  Vine,  the  crop  of 
the  current  year,  and  the  wood  and  buds  that  give  the  fruit  of  the  next. 
The  foliage  should  be  rather  thinner  in  the  case  cf  white  Graues  than 
in  black.  This  more  particularly  applies  to  Muscats,  which  of  all 
Grapes  require  high  elaboration  of  the  sap  to  insure  their  assuming 
the  rich  golden  amber  so  much  prized.  Avoid  large  reductions  of 
foliage  at  a  time;  it  only  tends  to  induce  shanking  through  the  check 
given  to  the  roots. 
Keep  the  growths  tied  down  from  the  glass,  and  so  prevent  scorch¬ 
ing.  Vines  extending  must  be  allowed  to  make  as  much  lateral  growth 
as  practicable,  always  bearing  in  mind  the  wood  on  which  the  fruit  is 
to  be  borne  next  season  must  have  full  exposure  for  its  foliage,  as  it  is 
the  principal  leaves  that  elaborate  the  sap  and  transmit  the  assimilate  d 
matter  that  forms  the  buds  at  the  base.  The  laterals  from  these 
having  been  stopped  at  the  first  joint,  may  be  allowed  to  extend  after, 
wards,  subject  to  their  not  interfering  with  the  access  of  light  to  the 
main  leaves. 
Temperature  and  Ventilation.- — All  late  Grapes  thrive  best  in  a  high 
temperature,  with  abundant  food  at  the  roots  and  a  genial  atmosphere. 
Fires  should  be  employed  to  maintain  a  night  temperature  of  60°  to  65°, 
and  70°  to  75°  in  dull  weather  by  day.  Admit  air  early,  allowing  a 
little  ventilation  at  the  top  of  the  house  constantly,  increasing  the 
ventilation  with  the  temperature.  Advance  to  85°  or  90°  with  sun 
heat,  at  which  keep  through  the  day  by  that  means,  reducing  the  venti¬ 
lation  with  the  declining  sun.  Close  at  85°,  damping  the  paths  well, 
then  again  before  nightfall.  It  is  well  to  close  for  a  short  time,  and 
afterwards  admit  a  little  air,  which  will  prevent  a  vitiated  atmosphere. 
Make  the  most  of  sun  heat  for  late  Grapes  by  judicious  ventilation, 
aiding  with  artificial  heat  so  as  to  keep  them  in  steady  progress  ;  avoid 
cold  draughts  or  sud'den  depressions  of  temperature,  as  these  cause 
rust  and  favour  the  spread  of  mildew  and  other  pests. 
He  Kitclien  Garden. 
Aparagus. — Peas  are  late  this  season,  and  not  till  they  are  fairly 
plentiful  is  it  possible  to  wholly  cease  cutting  Asparagus.  It  should, 
however,  be  remembered*  that  a  strong  early  top  growth  is  imperative  if 
•extra  stout  shoots  are  desired  next  spring  ;  a  very  good  reason  why  there 
ought  to  be  no  undue  delay  in  ceasing  to  cut.  In  hot,  dry  positions  it 
pays  well  to  give  the  beds  an  occasional  soaking  of  liquid  manure,  or 
to  water  in  a  light  surfacing  of  guano  or  some  other  soluble  manure. 
A  mulching  of  strawy  manure  is  also  beneficial. 
Broccoli.  —  Only  sturdy,  short-stemmed  plants  will  survive  a 
inoderately  severe  winter,  and  these  may  be  grown  without  any  great 
difficulty.  A  bad  start  is  made  when  the  plants  are  raised  thickly  in 
seed  beds  and  left  in  these  till  they  have  become  leggy  and  weakly. 
They  ought  to  be  got  out  early  on  firm,  moderately  rich  ground.  The 
autumn  varieties  may  be  planted  between  rows  of  early  Potatoes 
disposed  3  feet  apart.  The  later  varieties  should  be  planted  30  inches 
asunder  in  the  open  on  ground  made  firm  by  trampling. 
Borecole  and  Brussels  Sprouts. — These  important  crops  should  have 
a  rather  long  period  of  growth.  They  may  be  planted  between  rows 
of  early  short-topped  Potatoes  soon  after  these  have  been  finally 
moulded  up.  Those  previously  pricked  out  in  nursery  beds^ought  to 
be  watered,  and  a  little  later  transplanted,  each  with  a  ball  of  soil 
about  the  roots.  Plants  in  seed  beds  should  be  watered,  after  which 
they  may  be  lifted  and  replanted  with  a  dibber.  Water  immediately 
after  planting,  and  occasionally  till  growing  strongly.  Those  on 
specially  prepared  ground  may  be  2  feet  apart  in  rows  not  less  than 
30  inches  asunder.  Seeds  of  Asparagus  or  Buda  Kale  may  yet  be  sown 
thinly  in  drills  2  feet  apart,  and  if  only  slightly  thinned  a  heavy  crop 
of  greens  will  probably  be  available  next  spring. 
Cauliflowers.  —  These  have  not  been  an  unqualified  success  this 
season.  The  smaller  hearts  may  be  considerably  increased  in  size  if 
the  plants  receive  abundance  of  liquid  manure.  Later  breadths  of  the 
Autumn  Giant  planted  on  moderately  rich  ground  may  be  found  of  good 
service  in  October  and  November;  also  for  storing  in  pits  and  frames. 
Huuner  Beans. — The  seeds  of  these  having  germinated  evenly  there 
are  many^  more  plants  than  ought  to  be  left ;  crowded  plants  are  the 
first  to  fail  in  a  dry  hot  season.  Thin  out  to  a  distance  of  1  foot  apart, 
one  plant  to  each  stake  being  ample.  Those  to  be  grown  without 
stakes  must  hn  kept  closely  topped. 
Book  on  Orchid  Culture  (J.  C.  S.).- — The  book  to  which  we  made 
reference  was  Burberry’s  “  Orchid  Growing  for  Amateurs,”  published 
by  Messrs.  Blake  &  MacKenzie,  Liverpool.  You  will  find  it  most  useful 
as  an  aid  to  the  culture  of  small  collections. 
A.pple  Trees  not  Bearing  (J.  IF.). — The  growths  are  weak,  and  th*^ 
blossoms,  or  remains  of  them,  too  feeble  to  produce  good  fruit  even  if 
setting.  Neither  the  foliage  nor  the  flowers  appear  injured,  and  there 
is  no  evidence  of  disease.  As  there  may  be  mildew  we  should  add  a 
little  flowers  of  sulphur  to  the  water  used  in  syringing  the  trees,  first 
moistening  it  or  forming  it  into  a  paste  with  skim  milk,  then  place 
about  a  tablespoonful  of  the  paste  in  a  pailful  (3  gallons)  of  water.  To 
invigorate  the  trees  supply  at  once  a  top-dressing  of  the  following 
mixture: — Bone  superphosphate,  dry  and  crumbling,  9  parts;  nitrate 
of  potash,  finely  powdered,  6  parts ;  nitrate  of  soda,  crushed  fine, 
7  parts  ;  and  sulphate  of  lime,  well  grown,  7  parts ;  mix  and  apply  at 
once  at  the  rate  of  4  ozs.  per  square  yard  from  the  stems  outwards  to 
about  a  foot  beyond  the  spread  of  the  branches.  In  the  spring,  when 
the  buds  commence  growing,  repeat  the  application,  and  probably  next 
year,  or  the  year  following  at  most,  you  may  be  rewarded  with  a  good 
crop  of  fruit. 
The  Prophet  Flower  (L.  P,  C). — -The  Arnebias  are  usually  known  as 
Prophet  Flowers,  though  there  is  no  apparent  significance  in  the  term. 
They  are  not  very  widely  grown  at  present,  but  will  become  more 
Fig.  152. — Arnebia  cornuta. 
oopular.  Few  rook  plants  are  more  attractive  in  early  summer,  the 
flowers  being  borne  in  great  profusion.  Some  of  the  flowers  have 
dark  spots  and  others  without  them,  or  with  lighter  marks  ;  it  is  a 
peculiarity  of  the  Arnebia  that  the  spots  with  which  the  flowers  are 
distinctly  marked  when  they  first  open  gradually  fade  with  age,  and 
finally  disappear  before  the  flowers  wither.  The  latter  are  pale  yellow 
in  hue,  and  a  vigorous  plant  in  a  sheltered  nook  on  the  rockwork  is  very 
bright  and  pleasing.  Arnebia  echioides  succeeds  better  in  a  somewhat 
shaded  and  sheltered  position  in  the  rook  garden  than  when  occupying 
«an  exposed  site.  Ordinary  soil  will  do  if  well  drained.  The  plant 
grows  15  to  18  inches  high.  A.  cornuta  (fig.  152)  is  of  more  recent 
introduction  than  A.  echioides,  but  the  colour,  yellow  with  a  rich  velvety 
brown  patch,  is  similar  to  that  of  the  latter. 
