4 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
January  7,  1897. 
What  1  rename  it  after  I  had  bound  myself  by  agreement,  and  dis¬ 
tributed  circulars,  and  advertised  it  as  G.  J.  Warren.  Wbat  next? 
Now,  what  does  “  Interested  ”  see  ?  Wells’  special  list,  with  G.  J.  Warren, 
yellow  sport  from  Madame  Carnot.  Correct.  “  Gardeners’  Magazine,” 
last  issue,  has  Mrs.  F.  A.  Bevan,  yellow  Madame  Carnot.  Why  did  the 
N.C.S.  Committee  recognise  this  ?  or  why  did  it  ignore  G.  J.  Warren  ? 
Mr.  Davis  has  Mrs.  F.  A.  Bevan,  flesh  pink,  catalogued  ;  while  Mr.  Jones 
has  yellow  Carnot  without  a  name.  Is  it  not  worth  a  name  ?  Does  he 
ignore  the  name  be  gave  it?  I  do  not  wonder  at  “Interested”  being 
confused.— W.  Wells. 
The  yellow  sport  from  Madame  Carnot  that  was  staged  at  the  N.C.S. 
meeting  under  the  name  of  Mrs.  F.  A.  Bevan  was  exhibited  by  myself. 
I  at  first  thought  that  my  sport  was  a  darker  yellow  than  the  one 
exhibited  by  Mr.  W.  Wells  under  the  name  of  G.  J.  Warren,  and 
intended  to  give  it  a  distinct  name,  but  later,  on  carefully  considering 
the  difference  in  the  age  of  the  flowers  exhibited,  I  thought  it  better  to 
simply  call  it  Yellow  Madame  Carnot  until  it  has  been  grown  side  by 
side  with  G.  J.  Warren,  when  if  it  proves  the  same  shade  of  colour  it 
can  have  the  same  name  ;  if  it  is  a  different  shade  it  can  retain  the 
name  of  Yellow  Madame  Carnot,  so  there  is  really  only  one  Mrs.  F.  A. 
Bevan  offered  in  any  catalogue. — H.  J.  Jones. 
This  charming  Japanese  sported  last  year  from  Madame  Carnot  in 
the  gardens  at  Baleombe  Place,  Sussex,  where  it  cannot  be  said  to  have 
received  the  highest  culture.  Being  a  sport,  naturally  the  growth  and 
formation  of  blooms  are  identical  with  its  parent.  The  colour  is  canary 
yellow  on  the  surface,  with  lemon  yellow  reverse.  Mr.  Wells,  I  hear, 
is  the  fortunate  possessor  of  this  novelty. — E. 
The  N.C.S.  Judges. 
“  Fair  Play,”  whose  very  uncomplimentary  inuendoeB  (page  606)  do 
not  convey  a  very  fair  mind,  seems  in  his  strictures  on  the  N.C.S. 
judging  by  members  of  the  Committee  to  overlook  the  fact  that  this 
body,  I  admit  too  large  and  unwieldy,  comprises  thirty-six  members,  in 
addition  to  six  otheru  as  officers,  and  of  necessity  includes  many  of  the 
best  Chrysanthemum  growers,  exhibitors,  and  judges  in  the  kingdom. 
If  all  these  are  to  be  excluded  from  the  post  of  judge  at  the  N.C.S. 
shows,  then  will  many  of  the  best  men  be  excluded  from  acting  as  such. 
By  parity  of  such  reasoning  as  “  Fair  Play  ”  indulges  in,  every  member  of 
the  N.C.S.  Committee  should  be  excluded  from  judging  at  shows  of 
affiliated  societies  also— that  is,  therefore,  to  reduce  his  complaint 
ad  absurdum. 
To  desire  that  trade  growers  should  not  judge  in  classes  in  which 
any  blooms  they  may  have  special  interest  in  are  shown  is  right,  but  it 
must  not  be  forgotten,  for  instance,  that  in  the  shows  of  the  National 
Rose,  Dahlia,  and  Carnation  Societies,  not  only  do  traders  in  these 
various  flowers  constantly  judge  the  amateurs’  classes,  and  vice  versa , 
but  also  that  judging  by  members  of  the  respective  Committees  is 
constantly  practised.  The  singling  out  of  the  N.C.S.  by  “  Fair  Play  ” 
rather  evidences  some  little  spite — at  least,  it  looks  so. 
To  judge  the  decisions  of  the  judges,  even  severely,  is  the  privilege 
of  everyone,  and  it  is  a  very  proper  privilege  too  ;  but  when  such 
criticism  degenerates  into  what  appears  like  spite  and  vindictiveness, 
then  matters  go  too  far.  If  the  appointed  judges  are  ignorant  or 
incapable,  say  so  ;  but  attributing  corrupt  motives  is  argument  very 
apt  to  recoil  on  the  accuser. — A  Member  of  the  N.C.S. 
[We  agree  with  our  correspondent  that  when  a  critic  is  so  far 
animated  by  personal  spite  as  to  attribute  corrupt  motives  to  individuals 
who  act  contrary  to  his  desire  that  he  will  be  the  chief  sufferer  in 
reputation  in  the  long  run.  We  know  of  no  reason  why  “  Fair  Play’s  ” 
criticism  should  be  other  than  genuine.  We  presume  he  objects  on 
principle  to  the  unpleasant  duty  being  imposed  on  judges  of  granting 
awards  to  exhibits  containing  products  in  which  they  may  be  personally 
interested,  and  we  also  presume  that  if  he  were  asked  to  judge  by  his 
fellow  members  of  the  N.C.S.  that  he  would  decline  the  honour.  It  is 
quite  true  that  other  floral  societies  do  what  is  stated,  but  we  do  not 
think  “Fair  Play”  is  a  member  of  them,  and  therefore  only  interested 
in  the  N.C.S.] 
Propagating  Chrysanthemums. 
Various  are  the  methods  adopted  by  cultivators  in  rooting  cuttings 
of  Chrysanthemums.  The  propagating  season  is  now  in  full  swing,  and 
it  is  interesting  to  note  the  various  ways  which  enthusiastic  growers 
employ  in  the  treatment  of  the  cuttings.  Some  pin  their  faith  entirely 
on  a  close  system  of  propagation,  inserting  the  cuttings  Bingly  in  small 
pots,  which  are  stood  under  frames  or  hand-lights  in  a  greenhouse  or 
vinery.  The  same  system  also  answers  when  several  cuttings  are  inserted 
round  the  edges  of  pots.  It  is  not  absolutely  essential  that  the  frames 
or  hand-lights  be  entirely  airtight  when  cloBed  down,  but  only  so  that 
the  atmosphere  is  still  and  moist,  which  will  prevent  rapid  evaporation 
from  the  foliage-.  The  pots  must  stand  on  some  moisture-holding  base, 
by  which  a  slight  but  constant  humidity  is  maintained.  This  will  be 
enough  to  retain  the  soil  moisture  without  recourse  to  frequent  watering 
or  syringing.  An  important  point  to  remember  and  practise  in  the 
management  of  cuttings  on  this  principle  is  to  wipe  dry  the  inside  of 
tie  glass  every  morning. 
The  signs  which  indicate  rooting  has  commenced  also  denote  that  the 
admission  of  air  must  fce  increased  gradually  until  the  lights  or  covers 
of  the  frames  or  hand-lights  can  remain  open  or  off  altogether.  Bottom 
beat  is  not  necessary  except  when  it  is  required  to  hasten  the  rooting. 
Even  then  the  heat  must  be  mild  and  steady,  or  the  cuttings  may  be 
weakened  by  forcing.  When  heat  is  applied  to  aid  rooting  success  is 
best  insured  by  keeping  the  tops  cool. 
The  gradual  exposure  to  plenty  of  air  stiffens  the  foliage  and  modifies 
growth,  bui  transfer  the  plants  to  shelves  near  the  glass  in  a  cool  airy 
structure  as  soon  as  it  is  possible  to  do  so  without  distressing  them. 
The  system  of  propagation  above  alluded  to  is  the  safest  and  best  for 
readily  rooting  cuttings  of  exhibition  varieties,  also  for  insuring  against 
possible  losi  of  choice  new  or  scarce  sorts. 
Sturdy  sucker  cuttings  are  the  best  when  obtainable.  Of  some 
varieties  stem  cuttings  can  only  be  employed  because  of  the  scarcity  of 
the  more  desirable  material  which  springs  from  below  the  soil  level. 
The  most  inferior  stem  cuttings  are  those  which  are  furnished  with 
flower  buds.  Avoid  such  if  better  can  be  secured.  I  may  be  wrong, 
but  in  my  opinion  the  heel  of  older  growth  attached  to  stem  cuttings 
does  not  prove  of  much  advantage  in  rooting ;  therefore  I  invariably 
trim  the  cuttings  to  the  younger  tissue  just  above,  finding  they  root 
quicker.  It  is  also  well  to  avoid  cuttings  with  woody  stems,  none  the 
less  so  if  they  have  roots  attached.  Cuttings  having  more  succulent 
stems  furnished  with  active  rootlets  at  their  base  are  sometimes  to  be 
met  with.  These,  if  not  too  long,  ought  not  to  be  discarded.  Sturdy 
examples  soon  take  roothold,  growing  quite  vigorously.  Place  them 
singly  in  2J  or  3-inch  pots  by  the  usual  method  of  potting  rooted 
cuttings.  It  is  probable  they  will  not  flag  at  all,  and  do  not  need  the 
protection  of  frame  or  hand-lights.  The  pots,  however,  should  occupy 
a  moderately  cool,  moist  position.  As  soon  as  established  move  the 
plants  closer  to  the  glac  s, 
Another  method  of  rooting  cuttings  is  frequently  practised.  It  is, 
apparently,  entirely  opposed  to  the  close  system  of  propagation.  This 
consists  of  simply  placing  the  pots  of  cuttings  on  a  moist  shelf  or  stage 
in  a  low  and  but  slightly  heated  structure.  If  a  stage  covered  with 
moist  fine  ashes,  gravel,  or  spar  is  available  the  conditions  suitable  are 
at  once  secured.  Drying  the  atmosphere  by  heat  or  draughts  will  prove 
disadvantageous.  The  cuttings  root  slowly  but  surely.  Much  depends 
on  the  weather  and  the  intelligent  management  adopted.  The  soil  must 
be  thoroughly  moist  when  the  cuttings  are  inserted  ;  afterwards  a  daily 
skiff  with  the  syringe,  more  or  less  according  to  circumstances,  provides 
the  humidity  favourable  to  rooting. 
Flagging  of  the  leaves  is  not  necessarily  fatal  to  cuttings,  but  it  is 
best  to  avoid  it  if  possible,  especially  during  the  early  part  of  the  time 
after  insertion.  This  is  the  most  trying  period,  during  which  the  fresher 
the  cuttings  can  be  kept  the  better.  The  base  Bhortly  develops  the 
callus  or  ring  of  tissue  from  which  roots  are  ultimately  emitted.  This 
tissue  once  formed  the  cuttings  are  generally  safe.  Roots  issue  sooner 
or  later  according  to  the  conditions  of  soil  temperature  and  moisture. 
Maintain  the  atmosphere  steady  and  humid  too. 
The  compost  for  cuttings  needs  to  be  light  and  sandy.  Equal  parts 
of  loam  broken  up  finely,  leaf  soil  passed  through  a  quarter-inch  sieve, 
and  a  liberal  addition  of  sand.  Mix  thoroughly,  employing  it  moist 
when  filling  the  pots,  which  should  be  clean  and  dry  :  3-inch  or  3£-inch 
pots  are  the  best  for  a  number  of  cuttings  to  be  inserted  round  the 
edge.  For  single  cuttings  2J-inch  pots  are  the  most  suitable.  In  pre¬ 
paring  them  for  use  place  a  little  loose  drainage  in  the  bottom  of  each, 
and  protect  with  damp  moss  or  fibry  material  from  the  loam.  Press,  or 
rather  shake  the  soil  firmly  down  in  the  pots,  surfacing  with  a  layer  of 
clean  white  sand,  which  may  be  dry.  If  so,  a  number  of  grains  will 
follow  the  cutting  stick,  and  thus  form  a  sandy  base  for  the  cutting  to 
rest  upon.  It  will  largely  prevent  damp  and  decay.  It  assists  the 
formation  of  roots.  The  layer  of  sand,  too,  indicates  by  its  damp  or  dry 
condition  the  proximate  state  of  the  soil  below.  When  inserting  cuttings 
it  is  important  that  the  base  of  each  should  touch  the  bottom  of  the 
cavity,  and  not  be  hung  half  way  therein.  In  forming,  therefore,  the 
holes  for  their  reception,  note  the  length  each  separate  cutting  requires 
to  be  buried,  so  as  not  to  place  it  too  shallow  or  too  deeply  in  the  soil. 
Take  special  care  in  labelling  correctly  and  distinctly  each  lot  of  cut¬ 
tings  as  inserted.  Always  follow  one  simple  method  in  marking  those 
round  the  edges  of  potB.  Place  the  written  label  facing  the  cuttings, 
following  the  same  plan  with  all.  When  that  is  understood  there  will 
be  no  difficulty  in  knowing  to  which  the  label  refers  if  there  are  several 
varieties  in  one  pot.  Employ  small  smooth  labels  of  uniform  size, 
lightly  covered  with  white  paint.  Commence  the  writing  of  the  name 
from  the  top,  using  a  bold  black  lead  pencil.  Painted  wood  labels  all 
ready  for  use  may  be  procured  cheaply.  Those  3,  4,  and  5  inches  long 
may  be  bought  at  6d.,  8d.,  and  lOd.  per  hundred  respectively. — E.  D. 
New  Chrysanthemums — Incurved  Varieties. 
Continuing  from  page  606  my  selection  I  find  numerous  additions 
to  this  section,  but  whether  they  will  rank  as  high  as  some  in  years  past 
is  a  moot  point.  However,  it  is  now  too  late  to  remedy  that  for  this 
season  ;  growers  must  perforce  make  the  best  of  what  material  comes  to 
hand .  By  these  remarks  it  must  not  be  inferred  there  is  none  deserving 
of  cultivation  ;  certainly  none  comes  up  to  the  high  standard  of  excel¬ 
lence  set  by  such  as  Lord  Alcester  or  the  various  members  of  the 
Princess  of  Wales  family.  There  are,  however,  several  that  will  prove 
useful  and  interesting  to  cultivators  when  next  November  comes  round, 
and  which  those  who  aim  at  the  highest  pinnacle  in  the  exhibition 
world  cannot  afford  to  do  without. 
As  far  as  I  can  gather,  every  new  variety  of  this  season  has  been 
obtained  from  the  seedling  source  ;  not  one  is  the  result  of  a  sport.  This, 
in  my  opinion,  is  the  cause  of  a  want  of  decided  excellence  in  the  newer 
sorts  of  the  last  season’s  introductions.  Prominent  in  the  list  should 
