18 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
January  7,  1897. 
The  amides  are  present  in  some  seeds,  and  in  the  cells  of  many 
plants. 
(c),  The  reserve  materials  are  of  use  to  seeds  and  plants,  to  supply 
them  with  the  substances  necessary  to  build  up  their  growth  until  they 
have  leaves  expanded,  when  they  are  able  to  construct  new  food  from 
the  raw  materials  which  are  derived  from  the  soil  and  air.  Time, 
thirty  minutes. 
Question  9. — “  What  are  the  main  differences  between  the  ‘  seed  ’  of 
a  flowering  plant  and  the  1  spore  ’  of  a  fungus  1  ’ 
A  seed  consists  of  several  parts.  On  the  outside  there  is  a  skin 
(testa)  to  protect  the  embryonic  plant  within.  The  tiny  plantlet  con¬ 
sists  of  a  primary  root  (radicle),  a  primary  stem  (plumule),  one  or  more 
seed  leaves  (cotyledons),  and  sometimes  a  store  of  food.  The  seed  is 
therefore  in  all  respects  a  miniature  plant;  The  spore  of  a  fungus  is  like 
a  seed — a  reproductive  body— bat  it  differs  from  a  seed  of  a  flowering 
plant,  because  it  does  not  contain  any  embryo  or  rudimentary  plant. 
Time,  twenty  minutes. — A  Student. 
(To  be  continued.) 
[Lest  it  should  be  thought  our  correspondent  is  merely  a  book 
hunter,  it  may  be  said  that  he  is  a  most  industrious  worker.  We  have 
had  the  pleasure  of  a  handshake  with  the  young  gardener,  and  found 
it  hard  by  honourable  toil.  He  is  neither  afraid  of  fork,  spade,  nor 
barrow,  and  we  suspect  is  destined  to  make  his  way  in  the  world  if 
health  do  not  fail  him.] 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cherry  House. — When  the  trees  in  the  house  closed  in  December 
are  fairly  on  the  move,  let  the  day  temperature  be  kept  at  50°  to  55°, 
and  if  the  days  are  bright  air  should  be  admitted,  but  only  to  the  extent 
of  keeping  it  from  rising  above  65°,  commencing  to  ventilate  at  50°, 
increasing  it  at  55°,  above  which  a  free  circulation  of  air  must  be  allowed, 
and  when  the  temperature  declines  to  55°  close  the  house  for  the  day. 
The  night  temperature  should  still  be  kept  at  40°  to  45°  artificially. 
Syringe  the  trees  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon  on  bright  days,  but 
if  the  weather  be  dull  it  will  suffice  if  the  borders  and  other  surfaces 
are  damped  whenever  they  become  dry.  Examine  the  borders,  supplying 
water  if  necessary,  moistening  them  thoroughly,  the  water  not  being  less 
in  temperature  than  that  of  the  house.  Trees  in  pots  must  be  well 
supplied  with  water,  repeating  the  supplies  as  necessary  to  insure 
thorough  moisture  in  the  soil. 
Cucumbers. — The  sun  and  the  mild  weather  at  the  close  of  last 
year  have  helped  winter  fruiters  wonderfully,  a  little  ventilation  in 
the  early  part  of  the  day  when  the  weather  was  mild  aiding  by  evapora¬ 
tion  to  solidify  the  growth,  and  closing  early  in  the  afternoon  or  shortly 
after  midday,  with  damping  the  house  at  that  time,  insuring  steady 
progressive  development  in  growth  of  plant  and  fruit.  On  fine  mornings 
the  floors  should  be  damped  and  the  plants  lightly  syringed,  which 
discountenances  red  spider,  and  to  some  extent  holds  the  pests  in 
check.  Weak  liquid  manure  may  be  given  to  plants  in  free  growth,  but 
should  the  plants  not  show  signs  of  growing  freely  sprinkle  a  little — 
about  a  good  handful  —  of  a  mixture  of  dissolved  bones  and  soot  in 
equal  parts  on  the  bed,  and  water  moderately  with  tepid  water  only 
until  the  growth  becomes  free.  To  encourage  surface  roots  a  top-dressing 
should  be  given  of  turfy  loam,  from  the  size  of  a  pea  to  an  egg,  adding  a 
fourth  of  sweetened  horse  droppings,  having  it  previously  warmed  to  the 
temperature  of  the  house.  Maintain  the  night  temperature  at  65°,  a 
few  degrees  less  in  severe  and  a  few  degrees  more  in  mild  weather,  70° 
to  75°  by  day,  and  80°  to  85°  or  90°  with  sun  heat,  keeping  the  bottom 
heat  steady  at  80°. 
Plants  for  the  early  supply  of  fruit  where  winter  Cucumbers  are  not 
grown  should  now  be  prepared,  sowing  the  seeds  singly  in  3-inch  pots, 
leaving  room  for  top-dressing  when  required  bv  about  half  filling  the 
pots,  plunging  these  in  a  bottom  heat  of  85°  to  90°  near  the  glass.  The 
plants  will  be  available  for  planting  in  houses,  pits,  or  frames.  All 
points  considered,  there  is  no  better  variety  than  a  selected  stock  of 
Telegraph,  but  there  are  numberless  varieties  of  great  excellence,  each 
grower  having  his  particular  favourite,  and  often  of  his  own  raising  or 
selection. 
Figs. — Early  Forced  Trees  in  Pots. — The  terminal  buds  having 
started  advantage  should  be  taken  of  mild  weather  that  may  prevail 
for  increasing  the  mean  temperature  of  the  house,  as  when  Figs  are 
fairly  started  into  growth  they  delight  in  a.  good  heat,  plenty  of 
moisture,  and  all  the  light  that  can  possibly  be  given  them,  admitting 
air  so  as  to  prevent  the  glass  being  constantly  covered  with  moisture  ; 
but  seek  increase  of  temperature  from  fire  heat  combined  with  sun  heat 
in  preference  to  maintaining  a  temperature  in  dull  weather,  and  especi¬ 
ally  at  night,  that  will  cause  any  great  advance  in  growth  at  those 
times.  Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  55°  to  60°,  ventilate  a  little  at 
70°,  losing  no  opportunity  of  admitting  a  little  air  when  the  morning 
promises  an  increase  from  gleams  of  sun,  and  close  sufficiently  early 
for  the  temperature  to  run  up  to  80°.  Syringe  the  trees  and  damp  the 
walls  twice  on  fine  days,  morning  and  early  afternoon  ;  but  when  the 
weather  is  dull  and  wet  omit  the  latter  and  damp  the  floors  in  the 
evening  instead,  as  the  trees  are  weakened  and  the  foliage  made  soft  by 
keeping  them  wet  during  the  night,  therefore  always  allow  the  trees  to 
become  fairly  dry  before  nightfall.  Be  careful  not  to  permit  the  heat 
about  the  pots  to  exceed  70°  to  75°,  and  if  the  materials  are  heating  too 
violently  turn  them  as  a  means  of  reducing  the  bottom  heat,  but  it 
ought  to  be  kept  steady. 
Early  House  of  Planted-out  Trees. — This  is  an  excellent  means  of 
securing  the  finest  Figs  early  in  June,  the  trees  being  confined  to  narrow 
borders  about  one-third  the  width  of  the  house,  and  the  soil  a  calcareous 
loam  on  a  stratum  of  limestone  or  sandstone,  so  as  to  insure  perfect 
drainage  with  superfluous  water  carried  off  by  a  drain.  Maintain  a 
night  temperature  of  50°,  55°  by  day,  and  60°  to  65°  from  sun  heat.  If 
conveniently  arranged  for  the  introduction  of  a  good  body  of  fermenting 
materials,  as  leaves  and  one-third  of  stable  litter,  the  atmosphere  will  be 
kept  uniformly  moist  and  genial,  lessening  the  need  of  fire  heat.  Trees 
that  have  been  started  about  the  same  time  for  a  number  of  years  push 
growths  with  little  excitement ;  but  young  trees  that  have  not  been 
forced  start  tardily,  and  are  often  given  more  heat  in  the  early  stages 
than  is  good  for  the  crop.  This  should  be  avoided  by  bringing  on  the 
trees  slowly,  seeking  advancement  from  sun  heat  more  than  artificial  in 
dull  weather.  Apply  water  to  the  border  not  less  warm  than  the  mean 
of  the  house,  bringing  the  soil  into  a  thoroughly  moist  condition. 
Syringe  twice  a  day  with  tepid  water  a  little  warmer  than  the  house  ; 
but  in  dull  weather  damp  available  surfaces  only,  syringing  always 
sufficiently  early  to  allow  the  trees  to  become  dry,  or  nearly  so,  before 
nightfall. 
Succession  Houses. — Proceed  with  pruning  as  convenient,  thinning 
the  wood  where  crowded,  cutting  back  that  which  has  reached  the 
extremity  of  the  trellis  to  growths  well  disposed  for  supplanting  the 
branches  cut  away  in  bearing.  Thoroughly  cleanse  the  house,  limewash 
the  walls,  wash  the  trees  with  carbolic  or  petroleum  soapy  water,  using 
a  brush,  and  the  trees  having  been  infested  with  scale  or  red  spider, 
employ  the  soapy  solution  at  a  strength  of  4  ozs.  to  a  gallon  of  water.  It 
is  necessary  to  dislodge  the  scale,  effecting  that  by  using  a  half-worn 
brush  thoroughly  cleansed  from  paint.  Remove  the  loose  surface  soil  or 
mulching,  and  supply  fresh  lumpy  loam  with  sprinkling  of  approved 
fertiliser.  Keep  the  house  as  cool  and  dry  as  possible,  merely  excluding 
frost,  or  not  allowing*lthe  temperature  to  fall  many  degrees  below 
freezing  point. 
Young  Trees  in  Pots. — If  these  are  wanted  for  early  work  another 
season  the  plants  should  be  placed  in  gentle  heat  during  this  month  in 
order  that  they  may  make  and  properly  ripen  their  growth  by 
September.  They  must  be  potted  without  delay,  using  good  turfy  loam 
rather  strong,  with  a  fourth  of  old  mortar  rubbish  and  a  fifth  of 
thoroughly  decayed  cow  manure,  draining  efficiently,  and  potting 
firmly.  Train  the  plants  with  a  single  stem,  and  allow  the  radiating 
branches  to  form  the  foundation  of  a  good  bush  or  pyramid.  Insert 
cuttings  or  eyes  of  any  varieties  it  is  desired  to  increase,  and  in  order 
to  make  a  good  growth  they  should  be  encouraged  with  bottom  heat,  and 
started  not  later  than  the  beginning  of  February. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
£oam. — If  a  large  stock  has  not  been  wheeled  under  cover,  no  time 
should  be  lost  in  doing  so,  to  have  it  in  good  condition  for  use  when 
required.  As  opportunity  offers  it  should  be  pulled  to  pieces  and  the 
worms  removed.  As  this  work  proceeds  it  is  a  wise  plan  to  select  the 
most  fibrous  portions,  and  store  for  choice  plants  that  need  a  compost 
of  this  nature.  This  is  readily  accomplished  by  the  aid  of  an  inch  sieve. 
That  which  passes  through  should  be  again  placed  in  a  finer  sieve,  and 
the  particles  that  pass  through  reserved  for  seeds,  seedlings,  cuttings,  and 
small  plants  where  a  rough  compost  would  prove  unsuitable  and  out  of 
place.  It  is  surprising  when  a  large  amount  of  loam  is  prepared  for 
use  in  this  manner  how  quickly  the  work  of  potting,  filling  pans  and 
boxes  for  seeds  and  cuttings  can  be  carried  on.  It  is  a  mistake  to  leave 
work  of  this"  nature  until  the  busy  season  of  the  year. 
X.eaf  Mould. —  The  amount  required  for  use  during  the  spring 
months  should  also  be  under  cover,  ready  for  preparation  during 
unfavourable  weather.  This  undergoes  a  similar  process  to  the  loam, 
differing  only  in  being  passed  through  a  sieve  with  a  half-inch  mesh. 
A  heap  of  rough  material  may  also  be  prepared  by  breaking  it  up  with  a 
fork,  removing  the  finest  particles  by  the  aid  of  a  sieve,  sticks  also  being 
carefully  picked  out.  This  rough  heap,  when  cleaned,  will  be  found 
useful  for  placing  over  the  drainage  of  many  plants,  and  incorporating 
with  composts  that  are  required  as  rough  as  possible.  Our  leaf  mould 
is  never  stacked  or  used  for  potting  purposes  when  too  much  decom¬ 
posed.  We  prefer  it  when  the  fibre  of  the  leaves  is  still  perfectly  fresh, 
which  will  be  the  case  if  the  leaves  have  not  laid  more  than  1  foot  in 
depth,  and  are  fully  exposed. 
Peat. — Sort  this  into  three  classes,  that  with  the  most  fibre  being 
reserved  for  Orchids,  the  hardest  for  Azaleas,  Heaths,  and  other  hard- 
wooded  plants,  while  the  lightest  will  do  for  Ferns.  For  the  two  latter 
it  Bhould  simply  be  broken  up  with  the  hand,  and  Fern  roots,  pieces  of 
wood,  and  strong  roots  of  Heaths  removed  ;  while  that  required  for 
Orchids  should  have  all  the  particles  of  soil  shaken  out  of  it,  which  will 
be  useful  for  many  small  Ferns,  Mosses,  and  other  plants. 
Manure. — When  much  potting  {has  to  be  done  at  various  times  of 
the  year  it  is  necessary  to  wheel  into  a  shed  good  heaps  of  manure  in 
