40 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER . 
January  14,  1897. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Pruning  Outdoor  Vines. — When  Vines  are  crowded  with  surplus 
rods  or  spurs  these  should  be  well  thinned  out.  Strong  young  canes 
extending  from  any  parts  of  the  Vines,  and  which  have  had  the  chance 
of  becoming  fairly  well  ripened,  may  be  retained  for  filling  vacant 
spaces.  Shorten  them  to  not  more  than  4  feet.  Similar  growths  may 
be  encouraged  during  the  next  growing  season,  selecting  them  from  near 
the  base.  These  may  eventually  take  the  place  of  any  further  exhausted 
parts. 
Vines  confined  to  the  spur  system  only  may  have  the  lateral  shoots 
shortened  to  two  buds,  training  in  the  best  and  most  fruitful  of  the 
growths  which  start  in  spring.  Some  Vines  are  only  allowed  a  limited 
number  of  rods  furnished  with  spurs,  the  rest  of  the  space  being  occu¬ 
pied  with  younger  wood. 
The  long  rod  or  extension  system  may  also  be  exclusively  employed, 
in  which  case  there  will  be  no  spurs  older  than  a  year  or  two.  The 
periodical  renewal  of  growths,  avoiding  overcrowding,  is  the  best  system 
as  a  rule  for  outdoor  Vines; 
Cleansing. — In  very  hot  situations  in  summer  the  foliage  is  frequently 
attacked  by  red  spider  or  thrips.  In  order  to  destroy  the  pests  the  rods 
must  be  washed  over  with  soapy  water  followed  by  a  dressing  of  some 
effective  insecticide.  One  of  the  best  is  Gishurst  compound.  Dissolve 
4  to  8  ozs.  in  a  gallon  of  water,  and  use  warm.  It  will  act  effectually 
if  applied  as  a  lathery  solution,  or  it  may  be  thickened  to  the  con¬ 
sistency  of  thin  paint  by  adding  clay,  loam,  or  soot.  In  either  case 
apply  the  dressing  with  a  painter’s  brush,  reaching  every  available 
angle  and  crevice.  Another  serviceable  wash  consists  of  4  ozs.  soft- 
soap  dissolved  in  one  gallon  of  water,  adding  a  handful  of  sulphur,  also 
a  little  clay  to  thicken  the  mixtuie.  This  is  also  applied  with  a  brush. 
Thlnnlngr  Old  Orchard  Trees. — Good  results  invariably  follow 
an  intelligent  reduction  of  the  crowded  branches  of  standard  orchard 
trees.  In  the  first  place,  however,  the  trees  should  stand  at  least  clear 
of  each  other.  It  is  not  quite  satisfactory  to  thin  the  branches  only 
when  the  trees  have  been  originally  planted  closer  together  than  they 
ought.  Remove  branches  and  spray  from  the  centres  of  every  tree. 
Dispense  with  interlacing  branches,  more  especially  on  the  outsides. 
This  will  encourage  the  trees  to  assume  form  and  shape,  as  well  as 
productiveness. 
Pruning  Gooseberries  and  Currants.— Continue  pruning  bush 
fruit  as  opportunity  offers.  Thin  out  Gooseberry  bushes  well,  leaving  a 
liberal  amount  of  young  wood  disposed  regularly  and  thinly.  Remove 
altogether  shoots  or  branches  which  touch  the  ground.  Naturally 
drooping  varieties  should  have  the  lower  branches  pruned  to  buds 
pointing  upwards.  In  selecting  shoots  to  retain  choose  those  growing 
upwards  rather  than  downwards.  Weak  wood  cut  out  entirely.  The 
best  for  fruiting  is  of  moderate  strength,  well  ripened,  and  not  too  long. 
Dust  freely  with  dry  lime  on  a  damp  day,  as  a  protection  against  bull¬ 
finches,  starlings,  and  sparrows. 
The  side  shoots  of  Red  and  White  Currants  require  cutting  back  to 
an  inch  of  their  base,  where  the  fruiting  spurs  are  arranged  in  clusters 
close  to  the  main  branch.  In  pruning  bushes  not  fully  grown  the 
terminal  shoots  may  be  left  6  or  8  inches  long.  Vacant  spaces  in 
bushes  may  be  filled  whenever  necessary  by  encouraging  a  strong 
young  annual  shoot  to  extend,  shortening  it  at  the  winter  pruning  to 
8  or  9  inches,  so  that  the  following  season  side  shoots  will  be  developed 
freely.  These,  reduced  in  length  in  summer  and  shortened  to  an  inch 
in  winter,  will  form  fruiting  spurs  at  the  base. 
Black  Currants  may  simply  have  the  oldest  portions  of  wood  removed 
annually  and  the  best  of  the  youngest  encouraged,  chiefly  selecting  that 
nearest  the  base  of  the  bushes.  The  trees  bear  freely  on  young  wood. 
Dispose  it  4  inches  apart,  preferring  that  growing  erect,  and  not 
crossing.  * 
Heading  Apples  and  Fears  for  Graitlng. — Any  old  trees 
healthy  in  character  but  inferior  fruit  producers  may  be  grafted  in 
spring  with  well  proved  varieties.  As  the  sap  is  not  now  active,  this  is 
the  best  time  to  head  down  the  large  branches  near  to  the  position  where 
the  grafts  are  to  be  inserted. 
Scions  for  Grafting. — In  the  course  of  pruning  the  most  suitable 
Bhoots  for  affording  scions  should  be  selected,  tied  in  small  bundles, 
named,  and  laid  in  in  moist  soil.  It  is  important  that  a  cool,  sheltered 
situation  be  chosen.  The  buds  must  remain  dormant.  The  scions 
prepared  from  these  shoots  will  then  be  in  a  proper  condition  for  insert¬ 
ing  as  grafts  when  tbe  sap  rises  in  the  stocks. 
Lime- washing  Fruit  Trees. — Though  the  application  of  lime- 
wash  may  be  considered  rather  disfiguring  to  trees  in  conspicuous  posi¬ 
tions,  it  has  the  effect  of  cleansing  the  bark  of  minute  vegetable  growths 
which  frequently  accumulate  on  the  stems  and  larger  branches  of  fruit 
trees.  Old  specimens  in  orchards  and  exposed  positions  in  gardens  are 
chiefly  affected.  Sulphur  added  is  beneficial,  and  the  wash  may  be 
toned  down  with  soot  if  tbe  white  colour  is  objected  to.  The  propor¬ 
tions  of  the  above  substances  to  form  a  useful  cleanser  may  be  four  parts 
hot  lime,  three  parts  sulphur,  and  two  parts  soot.  Mix  to  a  proper 
consistency  for  applying  easily  with  a  brush  when  the  bark  is  damp  or 
wet. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines.  —  Earliest  House.  —  The  recent  dull, 
wet  weather,  combined  with  the  mildness,  has  not  been  favourable  to 
the  setting  of  the  fruit,  as  the  tendency  is  more  in  favour  of  wood 
growth  than  blossom  development.  The  chief  thing  to  aim  at  is  the 
fertilisation  of  the  flowers,  which,  having  developed  in  a  comparatively 
genial  and  well-ventilated  atmosphere,  will  have  opened  well  and  be 
duly  furnished  with  pollen.  Raise  the  temperature  to  50°,  if  it  have  been 
lower  through  the  night,  as  soon  as  possible  after  daybreak,  and  maintain 
it  at  that  figure  during  the  day  by  artificial  means,  putting  on  a  little 
air  so  as  to  induce  a  circulation  without  causing  a  draught.  Maintain 
a  genial  atmosphere  by  damping  the  paths  and  borders  in  the  morning 
and  early  in  the  afternoorf  of  fine  days,  but  in  dull,  wet  weather  an 
occasional  damping  will  Suffice. 
By  ventilating  early  with  a  suitable  temperature  the  trees  are  kept 
in  steady  progress,  the  blossom  become  perfectly  developed,  and  fertilisa¬ 
tion  then  is  readily  effected.  The  pollen  may  be  distributed  by  means 
of  a  camel’s  hair  brush,  feather,  rabbit’s  tail  mounted  on  a  small  stick, 
plume  of  Pampas  Grass,  or  shaking  the  trellis.  The  night  temperature 
must  now  be  50°  to  55°  in  mild  weather,  55°  by  day  from  fire  heat, 
advancing  to  65°  from  sun  heat.  Increase  the  ventilation  freely  above 
55°.  but  not  so  as  to  lower  the  temperature,  and  close  at  65°,  a  few 
degrees  advance  from  sun  heat  being  beneficial.  Remember  that  a  well- 
aerated  atmosphere  is  essential  for  the  vitality  of  the  pollen,  and  cross- 
fertilisation  more  potent  than  self-impregnation  in  many  cases  ;  besides, 
when  pollen  is  deficient  in  any  variety  some  Bhould  be  supplied  from 
another  affording  the  golden  dust  plenteously. 
Disbudding  must  not  be  done  hurriedly,  but  any  strong  shoots  of 
the  previous  year  having  a  tendency  to  push  growth  in  advance  of  the 
others  may  be  commenced  with,  first  removing  the  growths  on  the  under 
side  of  the  shoots,  and  then  removing  the  side  growths  to  the  number 
required — namely,  one  from  or  near  the  base  as  possible  to  supplant 
that  now  fruiting,  and  another,  or  more,  above  or  on  a  level  with 
the  fruit,  and  which  should  be  pinched  at  a  few  inches  of  growth,  or  if 
the  shoot  be  an  extension  leave  growths  at  about  every  15  or  18  inches 
to  form  the  bearing  shoots  of  next  season,  continuing  those  with  the 
leader  intact.  Disbudding,  however,  should  be  commenced  before  the 
shoots  are  an  inch  long,  and  be  continued  at  short  intervals  until  no 
more  shoots  are  left  than  will  be  necessary  for  furnishing  the  wood 
of  the  ensuing  season’s  bearing.  Afford  due,  but  not  excessive,  supplies 
of  water  to  the  inside  borders,  and  protect  the  roots  outside  with 
dry  material.  After  the  fruits  are  Bet  an  occasional  syringing  will 
assist  the  trees  to  cast  off  the  remains  of  the  blossoms,  yet  avoid 
heavy  syringings,  which  have  a  tendency  to  weaken  the  growths. 
Second  Early  House. — The  trees  to  afford  ripe  fruit  early  in  June 
must  now  be  started,  this  house  corresponding  to  the  first  in  many 
establishments,  which  with  the  very  early  varieties  give  ripe  fruit  about 
the  middle  of  May,  the  house  having  been  closed  at  the  new  year. 
Employ  fire  heat  only  to  maintain  a  day  temperature  of  50°,  raising  it 
early  to  insure  the  development  of  the  blossom  with  light  and  due  air¬ 
ing,  increasing  the  ventilation  at  55°,  avoiding  cold  currents,  and 
allowing  an  advance  of  5°  to  10°  from  sun  heat  and  corresponding 
ventilation.  A  night  temperature  of  40°  to  45°  is  sufficient  until  the 
blossom  is  well  advanced  for  expansion,  when  it  should  be  gradually 
raised  to  50°.  Syringe  the  trees  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon 
on  fine  days  until  they  show  the  anthers,  when  damping  the  borders 
and  paths  will  be  sufficient,  admitting  a  little  air  constantly,  with  a 
genial  warmth  in  the  pipes.  When  the  pollen  becomes  ripe  artificial 
fertilisation  may  be  resorted  to.  If  water  is  wanted  give  a 
thorough  supply,  affording  liquid  manure  to  weakly  trees,  but  warmed 
to  the  temperature  of  the  house.  Where  the  blossom  buds  are  super¬ 
abundant  remove  those  on  the  under  side  or  at  the  back  of  the 
trellis  by  drawing  the  hand  reverse  way  of  the  growths. 
Succession  Houses. — These  should  be  kept  as  cool  as  possible  by  free 
ventilation.  Tbe  house  to  be  started  early  in  February,  and  the  trees  not 
previously  having  been  forced,  should  now  be  closed,  but  if  regularly 
started  at  that  time  they  will  not  require  any  inducement  to  start  at  the 
proper  time.  The  borders  must  be  brought  into  a  properly  moist  con¬ 
dition,  merely  excluding  frost,  and  ventilating  fully  above  50°.  Push 
forward  the  pruning  and  dressing  of  the  trees  in  late  succession  houses, 
thoroughly  cleansing  them,  securing  the  trees  to  the  trellis,  ventilating 
and  keeping  them  as  cool  as  possible.  If  necessary  supply  water  at  the 
roots,  or  liquid  manure  to  weakly  trees, 
vines. — Earliest  H  uses.— The  weather  having  been  mild  and  wet 
great  care  is  necessary  in  ventilating  on  a  recurrence  of  sharp  and  cold 
weather,  for  draughts  injure  the  foliage,  crippling  the  growths,  and 
causing  them  to  become  stunted  ;  but  some  air  is  necessary  to  prevent 
the  leaves  becoming  thin  and  poor  in  texture,  as  they  do  in  a  confined 
atmosphere,  and  in  that  condition  are  liable  to  be  scorched,  and  fall  a 
prey  to  red  spider.  Disbud  when  the  best  shows  for  fruit  can  be  dis¬ 
tinguished  ;  tie  down  the  shoots  before  they  touch  the  glass,  taking  care 
not  lo  bring  them  down  too  sharply,  or  to  tie  too  tightly.  Stop  two  or 
three  joints  beyond  the  bunch,  not,  however,  acting  upon  any  rule  of 
thumb  principle,  but  be  guided  by  the  space  at  command,  extending  the 
stopping  where  there  is  room,  and  restricting  it  to  one  joint  where 
limited,  securing  as  far  as  possible  an  ample  and  full  supply  of  foliage 
