January  14,  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
41 
fully  exposed  to  light.  Do  not  burden  the  Vines  with  superfluous 
bunches,  one  on  a  shoot  is  sufficient,  for  overcropping  and  overcrowding 
are  great  evils.  As  the  bunches  come  into  flower  maintain  a  day  and 
night  temperature  of  70°  to  75°,  falling  5°,  however,  during  the  night, 
and  keep  the  atmosphere  rather  drier.  Where  fermenting  materials  are 
used  on  inside  borders  the  heat  must  not  be  allowed  to  decline,  bat  let 
i  he  heap  be  turned  and  replenished  as  necessary.  Outside  borders  must 
have  attention,  which  will  be  slight,  provided  they  have  been  covered 
with  leaves  and  dry  fern  or  litter  ;  but  where  fermenting  materials  are 
employed  they  must  be  renewed,  keeping  up  a  good  heap  of  Oak  leaves 
and  stable  litter  in  the  reserve  ground  to  admit  of  a  supply  being 
obtained  readily  as  required. 
Houses  to  Ripen  the  Fruit  in  June. — Start  the  Vines  at  once.  Supply 
the  inside  border  thoroughly  with  water  slightly  in  advance  of  the  mean 
temperature  of  the  house.  To  economise  fuel  employ  fermenting 
materials  within  the  house,  throwing  them  into  a  ridge  on  the  floor,  and 
turn  them  frequently  to  liberate  the  ammonia  and  maintain  a  genial 
warmth  and  moisture  constantly,  adding  fresh  material  as  necessary. 
Where  fermenting  materials  are  not  available,  the  surfaces,  other  than 
the  Vines,  may  be  sprinkled  with  liquid  manure  daily,  neat  stable  or 
cow-house  drainings  being  diluted  with  five  times  the  bulk  of  water, 
and  using  about  3  gallons  per  square  rod.  The  temperature  of  the  house 
be  50°  to  55°  by  artificial  means,  and  65°  from  sun  heat.  If  the  roots 
are  outside  they  will  need  protecting  with  a  good  thickness  of  dry 
leaves,  litter,  or  fern.  This  will  secure  to  them  a  more  uniform  tempera¬ 
ture,  and  is  a  necessity  for  preventing  the  soil  becoming  frozen.  It  is 
often  better  than  fermenting  materials  that  are  allowed  to  become  cold 
through  not  properly  attending  to  them  for  maintaining  the  heat.  Where 
the  border  has  been  exposed  up  to  now  it  will  be  little  warmer  than  the 
surrounding  ground,  and  a  good  bed  of  fermenting  material  can  be  used 
with  advantage,  placing  it  on  the  border  about  18  inches  thick.  Tois 
will  to  some  extent  warm  the  soil  and  encourage  the  growth  of  the 
roots,  but  it  must  be  removed  by  the  time  the  sun  gains  power  to  warm 
the  ground,  leaving  enough  for  a  mulch. 
Houses  from  whioli  the  Grapes  have  been  Cut. — Prune  the  Vines 
without  loss  of  time,  and  when  the  cuts  are  dry  dress  them  with  beat 
French  polish,  confining  the  dressing  exclusively  to  the  wounds.  Early 
pruning  not  only  avoids  danger  of  bleeding,  but  insures  complete  rest, 
albeit  the  pruning  buds  profit  in  plumping  and  preparing  for  a  good 
start.  Cut  to  a  sound  round  bud  as  near  the  base  as  possible.  Some 
Vines,  however,  do  not  prove  very  satisfactory  when  closely  pruned. 
The  operator  must  act  accordingly,  and  choose  the  second  to  fourth  bud, 
or  the  best  bud  on  firm  we'l-ripened  wood  wherever  situated.  This  will 
cause  the  spurs  to  become  long,  but  that  can  be  obviated  by  training  a 
shoot  from  the  base  to  displace  it  after  bearing,  and  the  Vine  will  be  all 
the  better  for  the  extra  foliage,  showing  it  in  the  finish  of  the  crop. 
Remove  all  loose  bark,  avoid  peeling  and  scraping  into  the  quick  or 
live  bark,  washing  the  rods  with  softsoap  and  water,  and  after 
thoroughly  cleansing  the  bouse  dress  the  Vines  with  an  insecticide.  If 
there  have  been  any  fungous  pests  use  a  solution  of  green  vitriol  (sulphate 
of  iron),  1  lb.  to  a  gallon  and  a  half  of  tepid  water  (15  per  cent, 
solution),  applying  with  a  brush  to  the  rods.  Clear  away  all  loose  soil 
or  mulching,  supply  fresh  lumpy  loam  in  its  place,  and  sprinkle  about 
a  lb.  of  the  following  mixture  per  square  yard  when  the  Vines  are  in 
need  of  substantial  support.  Dissolved  bones,  dry  and  crumbling,  three 
parts  or  lbs.  ;  muriate  of  potash,  two  parts  ;  sulphate  of  magnesia,  one 
part ;  air-slaked  lime  and  soot  in  equal  parts,  four  parts,  mixed.  If  only 
moderate  support  be  needed  use  half  quantity,  and  supply  the  other 
about  the  time  the  Vines  are  fairly  in  leaf.  Keep  the  house  as  cool  as 
possible  to  secure  complete  rest. 
Late  Grapes. — Maintain  a  mean  temperature  of  50°  for  Muscats 
5°  less  for  other  varieties  that  have  finished  late,  with  a  dry  atmosphere 
where  such  are  hanging.  Examine  every  bunch  at  least  twice  a  week,  and 
remove  any  decayed  berries.  Ventilate  the  house  on  fine  days,  and  keep 
it  closed  when  the  weather  is  damp  ;  but  a  gentle  warmth  in  the  pipes 
is  necessary  to  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  berries.  It  is 
hardly  possible  to  keep  Grapes  in  good  condition  beneath  leaky  roofs, 
and  it  is  a  capital  plan  to  cut  the  Grapes,  the  ends  of  the  stems  being 
inserted  in  bottles  of  rain  water  secured  in  an  inclined  position,  so  as  to 
admit  of  the  berries  hanging  clear  of  the  bottles.  Some  put  a  piece  or 
two  of  charcoal  in  each  bottle  to  keep  the  water  sweet.  Any  dry  room 
will  be  a  suitable  place  where  an  equable  temperature  of  40°  to  45°  is 
maintained.  Cutting  the  Grapes  admits  of  the  Vines  being  pruned,  the 
house  cleansed,  and  the  rest  thus  given  is  very  advantageous  to  the  Vines, 
the  house  being  kept  cool  and  dry. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Tuberous  Begonias. — Underneath  stages,  or  any  place  where  drip 
or  much  moisture  reaches  the  pots,  boxes,  or  pans  in  which  the  tubers 
are  wintered  are  not  the  proper  positions  for  storing  these.  Drip  is 
particularly  injurious,  and  may  lead  to  the  loss  of  numerous  tubers,  and, 
in  any  case,  moisture  is  apt  to  promote  an  early  weakly  growth,  whereas 
a  later  and  much  stouter  growth  is  most  desirable.  It  is  advisable, 
therefore,  to  turn  out  tubers  from  boxes  and  such  like,  and  after  clearing 
much  of  the  old  soil  from  them,  pack  them  more  closely  together  in 
sand.  They  can  then  be  stored  in  cool  sheds,  taking  good  care,  however, 
to  well  protect  them  from  severe  frosts.  March  will  be  quite  soon 
enough  to  start  the  smallest  tubers  in  gentle  heat  with  a  view  to 
growing  the  plants  to  a  good  size  prior  to  bedding  out,  while  strong  old 
tubers  may  well  be  retarded  till  late  in  April.  Propagating  by  means 
of  cuttings  is  best  practised  during  the  summer,  but  old  tubers  with 
several  shoots  may,  after  the  latter  are  about  2  inches  long,  be  cut 
into  several  pieces  and  started  in  gentle  heat.  The  majority  will  survive 
and  strong  plants  be  had  for  the  flower  beds. 
Raising  Seedling  Begonias. — Tuberous  Begonias  are  effective 
either  in  masses  of  one  colour  or  in  mixture,  nothing  but  a  frost  putting 
an  end  to  their  floriferousness.  The  erect  flowering  strains  are  the  most 
showy,  those  with  drooping  flowers,  though  also  pretty,  being  most 
effective  in  baskets  and  vases.  The  preference  should  be  given  to  quite 
new  seed,  and  this  germinates  most  surely  if  sown  before  the  bright  sun¬ 
shine  and  cold  winds  of  February  and  March  are  felt.  Added  to  this, 
early  raised  seedlings  can  be  grown  to  a  size  large  enough  to  bed  out  the 
same  season,  though  it  is  not  to  be  expected  they  will  rival  the  two- 
year-old  tubers.  Sow  early  and  bow  thinly,  and  thereby  avoid  losing 
numerous  seedlings  by  damping.  Prepare  two  or  three  pans  by 
draining  them  freely,  and  filling  up  firmly  and  evenly,  with  finely  sifted 
compost  largely  composed  either  of  very  good  leaf  soil  or  peat.  Avoid 
all  use  of  sand  in  the  compost,  and  more  particularly  on  the  surface. 
Gently  moisten  the  soil,  and  then  sow  the  seeds  on  the  surface,  but  do 
not  distribute  any  fine  soil  or  sand  over  it.  Set  the  pans  on  a  mild  hot¬ 
bed,  cover  closely  with  squares  of  glass,  and  shade  heavily.  There  ought 
to  be  no  necessity  to  moisten  the  soil  ;  allowing  it  to  become  dry  and 
then  watering,  however  gently,  being  almost  certain  to  dislodge  either 
the  seeds  or  the  seedlings.  In  less  than  a  fortnight  germination  should 
have  taken  place,  when  light  must  be  admitted  and  the  glass  gradually 
tilted.  Water  very  gently  indeed  and  prick  out  the  seedlings  into  pans 
of  fine  light  soil  before  they  become  crowded. 
Dwarf  Lobelias.  — These  again  can  best  be  raised  from  seed, 
the  strains  as  supplied  by  the  leading  seedsmen  being  as  near  perfect 
as  they  can  be.  The  seeds  being  very  small  ought  to  be  sown  much 
as  advised  in  the  case  of  tuberous  Begonias,  and  if  not  unduly  exposed 
to  a  dry  heat  or  strong  sunshine  will  germinate  quickly  and  surely. 
Sow  thinly,  crowded  seedlings  being  peculiarly  liable  to  damp  off. 
Raise  abundance  of  seedlings  though,  as  it  is  not  often  too  many  are 
available.  Cuttings  of  these  Lobelias  root  readily  in  close  frames  or 
boxes  placed  in  a  fairly  brisk  heat,  but  not  if  they  have  been 
kept  in  a  dry  heat  and  induced  to  become  hard.  A  newly  started 
vinery,  the  plants  not  being  placed  very  near  to  the  hot-water  pipes,  is 
suitable  for  stock  plants,  and  if  there  are  enough  of  these  the  plan  of 
propagating  by  division  answers  best.  If  kept  in  gentle  heat  the  old 
plants  will  grow  strongly,  and  directly  the  young  shcots  commence  to 
emit  roots  near  to  where  they  start  from  is  the  time  to  divide  them  into 
as  many  pieces  as  possible.  Being  dibbled  rather  thickly  into  boxes  of 
fine  light  soil  and  kept  in  gentle  heat  all  will  grow  and  be  ready  for 
temporarily  bedding-out  in  frames  in  April. 
Agreratums. — Though  scarcely  so  true  to  name  as  Lobelias,  very 
serviceable  plants  can  yet  be  raised  from  seed,  the  strains  including 
a  good  dwarf  white.  The  seeds  ought  to  be  sown  soon  and  some¬ 
what  thinly,  covering  very  lightly  with  fine  soil.  It  will  germinate 
quickly  if  the  pans  or  pots  are  partially  plunged  in  a  gentle  hotbed 
and  kept  closely  covered  with  squares  of  glass  as  well  as  heavily  shaded. 
The  seedlings  being  duly  pricked  out  in  boxes  of  fine  soil,  topped  once, 
and  then  either  given  more  room  in  other  boxes,  or  better  still.,  be 
temporarily  bedded  out  in  frames  or  pits,  fine  bushy  plants  will  be 
ready  for  the  flower  beds  when  required.  Cuttings  of  young  flowerless 
shoots  root  readily  in  a  moderately  brisk  heat,  these,  in  their  turn, 
affording  cuttings  so  that  a  good  stock  of  a  favourite  variety  will 
be  available  in  June.  Introduce  old  plants  into  gentle  heat  to  cause 
them  to  produce  young  shoots  freely. 
Various.  — If  a  number  of  strong  old  plants  of  bronze,  gold,  and 
silver  variegated  Zonal  Pelargoniums  were  lifted  and  potted  before 
being  badly  injured  by  frost,  these  ought  now  to  be  introduced  into  a 
newly  started  vinery  or  other  moderately  warm  house,  where  they  will 
soon  commence  active  growth  and  give  a  lot  of  good  cuttings.  Spring- 
struck  cuttings  of  these  are  quite  as  serviceable  as  any  autumn  struck, 
but  they  must  not  be  taken  off  the  old  plants  before  active  growth  of 
the  latter  has  commenced,  or  otherwise  the  greater  part  will  fail  to 
root.  Much  the  same  remarks  apply  to  the  ordinary  Zonals  and  the  Ivy¬ 
leaved  sections.  Stock  plants  of  Verbenas  ought  now  to  be  given  a 
shift  into  larger  pots  and  placed  in  gentle  heat,  a  strong  heat  being  most 
objectionable,  and  a  capital  lot  of  clean  Bappy  young  cuttings  will  then 
result.  Stock  plants  of  Heliotropes,  Lantanas,  and  Abutilons  to  be 
similarly  treated,  and  if  early  cuttings  of  Fuchsias  are  required  prune 
a  few  old  plants  and  start  them  in  gentle  heat  at  once.  There  would  be 
time  to  prepare  a  number  of  small  pyramids  for  bedding  out  next 
summer.  No  cuttings  being  required,  keep  the  old  plants  cool,  and  only 
moist  enough  at  the  rcots  to  prevent  shrivelling. 
TRADE  CATALOGUES  RECEIVED. 
G.  Bunyard  &  Co.,  Maidstone. — Seeds 
H.  Cannell  &  Sous,  Swanlev. — Seeds. 
J.  Carter  &  Co.,  High  Holborn,  W.C. — Abridged  Seed  List. 
W.  Clibran  &  Son,  Altrincham. — Seeds. 
W.  J.  Godfrey,  Exmouth. — Chrysanthemums. 
Hogg  &  Robertson,  22,  Mary  Street,  Dublin. — Garden  S  cds. 
W.  A.  Manda,  South  Orange,  N.J. — General  List. 
A.  Robinson,  lA,  Bishopsgate  Street  Without,  E.C. — Seeds, 
