62 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
January  21,  1897. 
there  is  little  danger  of  giving  too  much,  many  crops  being  lost  by 
keeping  the  roots  too  dry  or  supplying  water  too  late  and  irregularly. 
In  dull  weather  the  temperature  should  be  kept  at  65°  by  day  and  60° 
at  night,  but  5°  more  in  mild  weather  in  both  cases.  Superfluous 
growths  should  be  rubbed  off,  and  the  shoots  stopped  at  about  the  fifth 
or  sixth  leaf  ;  but  trees  making  sturdy  growth  will  not  need  stopping, 
and  the  finest  Figs  are  borne  on  extensions.  Yet  stopping  is  necessary, 
especially  growth  likely  to  interfere  with  an  equal  distribution  of  the 
sap  and  the  admission  of  light  and  air  to  all  parts  of  the  tree  in  equal 
share . 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Trees. — The  trees  started  early  in  the 
month  and  planted  in  inside  borders  of  limited  extent  will,  the  borders 
having  been  repeatedly  watered  so  as  to  bring  the  soil  into  a  thoroughly 
moist  state,  be  starting  into  growth,  and  may  have  the  night  tempera¬ 
ture  raised  to  55°,  and  60°  to  65°  by  day  from  fire  heat,  with  an  advance 
from  sun  heat  to  70°  or  75°,  hut  with  moderate  ventilation.  Syringe  the 
trees  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon  of  fine  days,  the  latter  always 
sufficiently  early  to  a  low  the  trees  to  become  fairly  dry  before  night, 
and  in  dull  weather  omit  the  afternoon  syringing.  Weakly  trees  may 
have  a  good  soaking  of  liquid  manure  at  a  temperature  about  the  mean 
of  the  house,  but  it  must  not  be  too  strong.  This  will  induce  the  for¬ 
mation  of  roots,  and  active  feeders  being  pushed  from  the  collar  and 
surface  roots  they  should  be  encouraged  by  light  mulching  of  lumpy 
material  to  spread  outwards,  and  then  the  trees  can  be  nourished  to  any 
extent  by  top-dressing  of  fertilisers  or  applications  of  liquid  manure. 
melons. — Seeds  sown  early  in  the  month  have  progressed  so  that 
the  plants  are  in  second  leaf,  and  root  action  now  proceeds  rapidly  ; 
therefore  attend  to  earthing,  and  when  the  small  pots  are  cccupied  with 
roots  shift  the  plants  into  5-inch  pots,  always  watering  in  advance  of 
shifting,  so  that  the  roots  are  all  preserved  in  turning  out  the  plants, 
and  not  allowing  them  to  become  root-hound.  Plunge  in  bottom  heat 
near  the  glass,  a  temperature  of  about  80°  sufficing  at  the  roots  ;  65°  at 
night,  and  70°  to  75°  in  the  daytime  artificially  of  top  heat,  with  10° 
to  15°  rise  from  sun  heat  being  suitable.  Place  a  small  stick  to 
each  plant  for  its  support  until  it  is  large  enough  to  transfer  to  a 
hillock  in  the  Melon  J-ouse,  rubbing  off  the  laterals  as  they  appear  up  to 
the  height  of  the  lowest  wire  of  the  trellis.  Plants  intended  for  planting 
out  in  pits  and  frames,  and  trained  over  the  surfacing  of  the  beds,  can 
be  planted  out  as  soon  as  they  require  more  root  room,  or  be  shifted 
into  larger  pots,  stopping  them  at  the  second  rough  leaf. 
Soil  for  Melons.— Heavy  loam  is  preferable  to  light,  and  that  cut  and 
stacked  with  about  five  per  cent,  of  quicklime  will  have  the  herbage 
and  its  contained  pests  destroyed.  The  top  3  inches  of  a  pasture  grazed 
by  sheep  is  most  suitable,  and  this  chopped  up  moderately  small  will 
grow  grand  fruit.  An  admixture  of  old  mortar  rubbish,  say  a  sixth, 
supplies  lime  and  grit,  and  the  plants  grow  sturdier  for  a  supply,  which 
is  often  deficient  in  turfy  loam,  and  quart  of  soot  and  two  quarts  of 
wood  ashes  to  two  bushels  of  loam  makes  the  poorest  soils  suitable  for 
Melons,  whilst  rendering  it  hateful  to  wireworms  and  slugs.  Unless 
very  poor  soil  or  ordinary  garden  soil  is  used  manure  is  not  necessary  ; 
but  it  is  a  mistake  to  suppose  that  Melons  cannot  he  grown  in  ordinary 
loam,  for  add  to  it  the  soot  and  wood  ashes,  and,  if  deficient  in  humus 
a  fourth  of  thoroughly  decomposed  manure  free  from  worms,  when  it 
will  grow  almost  any  kind  of  fruit.  Have  the  materials  under  cover  a 
few  days  to  dry,  chop  up  the  turf,  and  turn  twice  to  thoroughly  mix 
the  ingredients. 
Planting  Cucumbers  and  Melons  in  Pits  and  Frames. — Have  the 
beds  made  up  about  a  week  in  advance  of  the  plants  becoming  fit  to 
plant  out,  employing  sweetened  materials,  putting  together  compactly. 
Place  a  barrowful  of  soil  in  the  centre  of  each  light,  flatten  the  top, 
which  should  be  about  9  inches  from  the  glass,  and  not  more  than 
1  foot,  the  soil  being  about  10  inches  deep.  When  warmed  through 
place  a  plant  in  the  centre  of  each  hillock,  press  the  soil  firmly  around 
each  plant,  keeping  it  about  half  an  inch  below  the  seed  leaves,  having 
the  plant  and  soil  in  which  it  is  planted  moist,  so  as  to  present  the 
need  of  water  at  planting.  A  circle  of  quicklime  or  dry  soot  drawn 
around  each  plant  a  little  way  from  the  stem  will  absorb  superfluous 
moisture,  and  be  a  barrier  against  slugs. 
Placing-out  Cucumbers  or  Melons  in  Houses. — The  house  must  be 
thoroughly  cleansed,  the  woodwork  with  softsoap  and  hot  water,  glass 
with  clean  water  only,  both  inside  and  outside,  and  wash  the  brickwork 
with  hot  lime.  If  there  have  been  any  eelworm  scald  the  bed-walls  with 
boiling  water,  and  the  bottom  must  be  well  soaked  with  it.  Place  the 
soil  in  a  ridge,  flattened  at  the  top,  and  about  10  inches  deep  ;  and  when 
warmed  through  turn  a  plant  out  in  the  centre  of  each  light,  or  about 
3  feet  apart.  Secure  the  stick  to  the  bottom  wire,  and  rub  off  the 
laterals  up  to  the  trellis.  Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°, 
70°  to  75°  by  day,  advancing  to  85°  or  90°  from  sun  heat,  keeping  the 
bottom  heat  steady  at  80°  to  85°,  or  start  at  90°  if  fermenting  materials 
are  used  ;  but  if  from  hot-water  pipes  80°  is  sufficient,  for  fermenting 
materials  lose  heat,  therefore  it  must  be  higher  at  the  beginning. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Manuring-  the  Ground  — Advantage  should  be  taken  of  the  first 
moderately  severe  frost  to  wheel  as  much  manure  on  the  ground  as  it 
is  intended  to  apply  for  the  different  crops.  Comparatively  fresh  strawy 
stable  manure  is  most  suitable  for  the  heavier  soils,  but  those  lighter 
and  less  retentive  of  moisture  and  fertility  would  respond  to  a  dressing 
of  mixed  farmyard  manure.  Old  mortar  rubbish,  sand,  fine  ashes,  leaf 
Boil,  and  burnt  clay  or  fine  soft  ballast  applied  freely  to  heavy  soils, 
forking  them  into  the  surface  rather  than  burying  deeply,  serve  to 
keep  them  in  a  more  finely  divided  and  more  fertile  condition  than 
formerly. 
Digging  and  Trenching. — Where  much  digging  has  to  be  done  an 
early  start  is  desirable,  but  do  not  touch  clayey  ground  while  it  is  very 
wet  on  the  surface.  If  it  can  be  laid  up  in  rough  spits  during  this 
month,  frosts  and  drying  winds,  followed  by  rains  in  February  or  March, 
may  have  the  effect  of  pulverising  it  sufficiently  to  admit  of  its  being 
got  into  a  fine  condition  for  seed  sowing,  also  for  Potato  planting.  If 
dug  later,  then  the  drying  winds  and  sunshine  in  March  and  rain  in 
April  will  have  the  same  effect.  Medium  and  light  soils  are  less  difficult 
to  manage,  though  some  of  these  ought  not  to  be  dug  many  days  before 
cropping,  owing  to  their  liability  to  become  badly  saturated  with 
moisture,  which,  if  the  ground  had  not  been  dug,  would  have  passed 
away  freely  and  naturally.  Double  digging  and  trenching  ought  to  be 
done  early  in  order  to  allow  time  for  settlement.  Never  bring  much 
virgin  subsoil,  and  in  particular  any  of  clayey  nature,  to  the  surface  at 
one  time.  A  light  surfacing  may  put  new  life  into  the  top  spit,  but  a 
whole  spit  of  it,  unless  previously  well  prepared,  might  have  the  effect 
of  making  the  ground  sterile  and  unworkable. 
Crops  Requiring-  Manure. — Some  soils  give  out  much  more 
quickly  than  others  ;  but  when  a  garden  is  closely  cropped,  and  fresh 
rather  than  over-decayed  manure  is  principally  employed,  it  is  not  often 
too  much  is  used.  What  the  land  does  get  sick  of  is  an  excess  of 
humus,  out  of  which  the  nitrogen,  phosphates,  and  other  elements  have 
been  washed  or  lost  by  evaporation.  Those  periodical  dressings  of  old 
hotbed  manure  ought  to  be  supplemented  with  or  varied  by  an  occa¬ 
sional  dressing  of  newly  slaked  lime,  applied  at  the  rate  of  about  half  a 
bushel  to  the  square  rod  every  fourth  or  fifth  year.  Nearly  every  crop 
grown  in  a  garden  would  require  something  more  than  humus,  and  those 
seasons  when  lime  is  not  used  artificial  manures  should  be  applied;  those 
of  a  slow-acting  nature,  including  superphosphate  and  kainit  (potash), 
at  cropping  time,  with  a  later  dressing  of  the  more  quickly  soluble 
nitrate  of  soda  for  the  lighter  soils,  and  sulphate  of  ammonia  for  the 
heavier  ones.  The  ground  ought  to  be  most  freely  manured  for  Peas, 
Beans,  Onions,  Leeks,  the  Brassica  tribe,  Lettuce,  and  Tomatoes,  Pota¬ 
toes  also  paying  well  for  liberal  treatment.  Supposing  manure  has  been 
freely  employed  for  previous  crops,  then  little  or  none  of  it  ought  to  be 
necessary  for  Beet,  Carrots,  Salsafy,  Scorzonera,  and  Parsnips  this  season. 
Not  only  does  strong  manure  make  the  roots  of  these  grow  too  coarse, 
but  it  is  also  liable  to  fork  them  badly. 
Seed  Potatoes. — Far  too  many  of  these  are  stored  in  heaps  during 
the  late  autumn  and  winter  months,  where  they  sprout  prematurely  and 
are  greatly  weakened  accordingly.  Ashleaf  varieties  in  particular  ought 
never  to  be  pitted,  nor  is  it  wise  to  store  them  in  bagB,  barrels,  baskets, 
and  deep  boxes,  as  in  these  instances  also  premature  sprouting  has 
already  become  too  pronounced.  Lose  no  time  in  setting  all  early 
kidney  seed  Potatoes  on  their  stalk  ends  in  shallow  boxes,  packing  them 
closely  together.  Store  them  in  a  cool,  light  position,  covering  closely 
only  with  paper  mats  or  canvas  whenever  a  severe  frost  is  anticipated. 
In  this  way  short  stout  sprouts  will  form,  and  the  first  step  towards 
ultimate  success  assured.  All  other  seed  Potatoes  ought  also  to  be 
attended  to,  arranging  them  thinly  in  cool,  dry,  light  quarters  with  a 
view  to  saving  the  first  sprouts. 
Early  Peas. — Dwarf  Peas  may  be  successfully  grown  in  pots,  but 
are  more  profitable  in  pits  and  frames,  whether  these  are  glazed  or  only 
roughly  protected.  The  10-inch  pot  is  a  suitable  size,  and  it  must  be  three 
parts  full  with  rich  loamy  soil.  Sow  the  seeds  thinly,  press  them  in,  and  cover 
with  1  inch  or  rather  more  of  fine  soil.  Not  much  water  is  wanted  at  first, 
but  abundance  of  this  and  liquid  manure  will  be  required  when  the  pots 
are  well  filled  with  roots.  For  frames  and  pits  raise  the  plants  moderately 
thickly  in  boxes  of  fine  soil  and  place  in  heat.  When  3  inches  high  all 
may  be  shaken  out  and  replanted  in  beds  of  rich  soil  over  a  mild  hotbed. 
Arrange  the  rows  15  inches  apart,  and  plant  moderately  thickly,  dropping 
the  roots  to  their  full  depth  in  narrow  trenches.  Lightly  stake  and  avoid 
undue  coddling.  Chelsea  Gem  is  a  good  variety  for  pot  and  frame 
culture.  If  seed  is  sown  in  January  on  cold,  wet  soils  much  of  it  will 
perish;  but  if  the  weather  keep  mild  and  moderately  dry,  the  early 
round-seeded  varieties  may  be  sown  on  lighter  soils  with  a  good  prospect 
of  an  early  crop  resulting.  With  a  little  extra  trouble,  quite  as  early 
crops  can  be  had  by  sowing  the  seed  in  boxes  as  advised  for  frames,  or 
in  3  J-inch  pots,  placing  these  under  glass  in  little  or  no  heat  to  germinate, 
and  planting  out  when  large  enough. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Palms. — During  severe  weather,  when  an  excess  of  fire  heat  has  to 
be  used  to  maintain  the  desired  temperature,  thrips  are  liable  to  prove 
troublesome  to  these  plants.  A  sharp  look  out  must  be  kept  for  such 
pests,  for  if  allowed  to  become  established  they  soon  injure  the  foliage, 
which  may  look  unsightly  for  years.  Once  the  insects  make  their 
appearance,  sponge  the  fronds  carefully  with  a  solution  of  tobacco 
water  in  which  a  little  softsoap  has  been  dissolved,  say  1  oz.  to  4  gallons. 
After  all  have  been  sponged,  fumigate  the  house  once  or  twice  in 
succession  until  every  trace  has  been  destroyed.  Where  these  plants 
can  be  liberally  syringed  once  or  twice  daily,  according  to  the  weather, 
they  can,  as  a  rule,  be  kept  free  from  thrips  but  where  the  syringe 
cannot  be  freely  used  constant  care  and  attention  are  needed.  Do 
not  overwater  Palms  at  the  roots,  and,  on  the  other  hand,  be  careful 
not  to  allow  them  to  become  dust  dry,  or  the  foliage  will  soon  present 
a  sickly  appearance.  Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  60°  where  Kentias 
and  other  warm  kinds  are  grown. 
Adlantums. — Plants  from  which  fronds  have  been  gathered,  and 
only  small  stuff  remains,  may  be  cut  over  and  started  again  into  growth. 
