82 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
January  28,  1897. 
pushing  them  when  the  external  circumstances  are  unfavourable.  Seek, 
therefore,  to  maintain  eteady,  progressive,  sturdy  growth  by  making  the 
most  of  sun  heat,  with  early  and  judicious  ventilation.  Early  forced 
trees  also  mu9t  be  cautiously  disbudded,  as  too  early  and  all-at-once 
removal  of  the  surplus  growths  gives  a  check,  which  may  cause  the  fruit 
to  fall,  and  the  reaction  that  follows  has  its  outcome  in  strong  shoots. 
The  proper  method  is  to  commence  by  taking  off  a  few  foreright  shoots 
first,  then  proceed  in  a  similar  manner  with  those  on  the  upper  side  of 
the  branches,  and  those  on  the  weakest  part  or  lower  side  of  the  wood 
last.  Leave  a  shoot  at  the  base  of  the  present  bearing  shoot  to  supply 
its  place  next  season,  and  another  must  be  left  on  a  level  with  or  above 
the  fruit  to  draw  the  sap  to  the  fruit.  The  upper  growth  should  have 
its  point  pinched  off  at  the  third  leaf  unless  it  is  necessary  for  the 
extension  of  the  tree,  when  it  may  be  trained  in  full  length.  In  the 
case  of  trees  extending  the  shoots  necessary  for  the  formation  of  the 
trees  must  be  trained  12  to  15  inches  apart.  Instead  of  disbudding  last 
year’s  extensions  the  shoots  not  required  for  laying  in  to  form  the 
bearing  wood  of  next  year  may  be  pinched  at  the  second  or  third  leaf  to 
form  spurs,  stopping  subsequent  growths  at  the  first  leaf.  The  bearing 
shoots  on  extensions  should  be  12  to  15  inches  distance  apart,  and  the 
extensions  or  branches  a  similar  space  asunder  ;  for  it  is  necessary  in 
producing  fine  Peaches  and  Nectarines  that  the  growths  be  sturdy,  the 
foliage  fully  exposed  to  light,  and  cleanliness  thorough  ;  therefore  allow 
no  more  shoots  to  be  produced  than  is  required  for  filling  the  vacant 
space,  or  to  furnish  the  bearing  wood  of  next  year. 
Syringings  and  a  close  moist  atmosphere  have  a  tendency  to  induce 
soft  growths,  therefore  avoid  an  excess  of  both,  but  when  the  fruits  are 
set  swelling  an  occasional  syringing  in  the  early  part  of  fine  afternoons 
will  assist  them  to  cast  off  the  remains  of  the  flowers.  Sufficient 
moisture  beyond  that  of  syringing  can  be  secured  by  damping  the  paths 
and  borders  on  dull  days,  and  the  foliage  is  then  free  to  elaborate  the 
sap,  though  its  power  is  as  yet  small.  When  the  fruits  swell  and  are 
the  size  of  horse  beans,  remove  if  too  thickly  placed  a  few  of  the  smallest 
and  those  on  the  under  side  of  the  branches,  but  do  not  thin  too  severely, 
as  excessive  thinning,  like  extreme  disbudding,  often  gives  a  check 
inimical  to  the  fruit  left  ;  therefore  thin  by  degrees,  removing  a  few  at 
a  time,  commencing  with  the  weakest  part  of  the  trees.  If  aphides 
appear  vaporise  with  nicotine  essence  or  fumigate  with  tobacco,  doing 
either  carefully  and  moderately  on  two  or  three  consecutive  evenings, 
having  the  foliage  dry  and  delivering  the  smoke  cool.  The  foliage  of 
Peaches  and  Nectarines  is  very  susceptible  Of  injury  from  tobacco 
smoke,  an  overdose  being  fatal  to  leaves  and  crop.  If  mildew  appear, 
dust  the  affected  parts  with  flowers  of  sulphur,  or  the  advertised  fungi¬ 
cides  in  powder  may  be  employed,  but  apply  very  lightly.  Be  careful 
in  giving  air  in  cold  weather,  as  draughts  may  cause  the  fruit  to  fall, 
and  in  clear  frosty  weather  it  is  safer  to  allow  the  temperature  to  rise  a 
little  higher  than  to  open  the  ventilators  too  much.  Let  the  water 
supplied  to  inside  borders  be  equal  in  temperature  to  that  of  the  mean 
of  the  house  ;  and  to  assist  weakly  trees  to  swell  their  fruit  in  the  first 
stage  afford  liquid  manure. 
Trees  Started  at  the  New  Tear. — The  buds  having  swelled  and 
shown  colour  syringing  must  cease  over  the  trees  ;  but  sprinkle  the 
borders  occasionally — morning  and  afternoon — on  fine  days,  so  as  to 
maintain  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere.  If  there  is  a  super- 
abundancy  of  blossom  remove  that  on  the  under  side  of  the  trellis, 
drawing  the  hand  contrary  way  of  the  growth  along  the  shoots.  The 
temperature  may  be  advanced  to  45°  to  50°,  and  50°  to  55°  in  the  day¬ 
time  by  artificial  means,  and  60°  to  65°  from  sun  heat,  ventilating  freely 
above  55°,  and  leave  a  little  constantly  at  the  top  of  the  house.  Supply 
water  to  the  inside  border  as  required. 
Trees  to  Ripen  Fruit  Early  in  July. — The  house  must  be  closed 
now,  and  the  trees  started  at  the  commencement  of  February.  Syringe 
the  trees  two  or  three  times  a  day  in  bright  weather,  once  a  day  sufficing 
when  dull,  and  in  severe  weather  merely  damp  the  path  and  border. 
Turn  the  heat  on  in  the  morning  so  as  to  raise  the  temperature  to  50°, 
keeping  it  at  that  figure  until  the  decline  of  the  sun ;  then  allow  the 
heat  to  fall  to  its  night  minimum,  employing  fire  heat  only  to  prevent 
its  falling  below  40°.  Water  the  inside  border  if  necessary,  being  guided 
by  its  condition,  as  there  is  a  great  difference  in  border  requirements, 
those  formed  of  retentive  material  not  needing  water  nearly  as  often  as 
those  composed  of  loose  porous  soil. 
Later  Houses. — When  the  trees  are  kept  under  fixed  roofs  the  buds 
commence  swelling  at  an  early  period  of  the  year,  but  where  the  roof 
lights  are  removed  they  do  not  come  on  sooner  than  those  against  walls 
in  swelling.  Ventilate  freely  in  bright  weather  so  as  to  retard  the  buds 
as  much  as  possible,  not  omitting  to  water  inside  borders  if  they  show 
the  least  indication  of  dryness,  as  this  is  one  of  the  causes  of  the  buds 
dropping.  Houses  and  wall  cases  from  which  the  lights  have  been 
removed  should  not  have  them  replaced  until  the  time  for  starting  the 
trees  or  the  buds  are  so  advanced  as  not  to  be  safely  longer  exposed. 
Vines. — Earliest  Forced  in  Pots  — When  Vines  are  in  full  leaf  they 
evaporate  water  rapidly,  and  require  copious  supplies  of  liquid  manure 
or  top-dressings  of  fertilisers  washed  in,  always  applying  the  liquid  or 
water  tepid,  and  taking  care  to  not  apply  the  manure  water  or  fertilisers 
too  strong.  Thin  the  berrieB  as  soon  as  fairly  set  and  somewhat  freely  in 
order  to  induce  fine  fruit,  but  not  going  to  the  extent  of  making  the 
bunches  loose,  though  that  is  better  than  wedged  ones,  yet  the  compact 
even-berried  cluster  is  more  pleasing  and  desirable.  Damping  is  only 
necessary  in  the  early  part  of  the  day  in  dull  weather,  and  then  in  the 
afternoon  on  bright  days.  Maintain  the  night  temperature  at  60°,  falling 
5°  on  cold  nights,  65°  to  70°  on  dull  days,  70°  to  75°  when  mild  and!a 
little  sun,  ventilating  at  70°,  increasing  it  with  Bun  heat  to  80°  or  85°, 
at  which  keep  through  the  day,  closing  so  as  to  run  up  to  85°  or  90°,  and 
then  sprinkling  the  paths  and  borders. 
Earliest  Forced  Planted- out  Vines. — Tying  and  stopping  the  shoots 
to  one  or  two  joints  above  the  show  of  fruit  where  space  is  limited  must 
have  attention,  removing  the  laterals  below  the  bunch,  except  those  from 
the  two  basal  leaves,  which,  with  those  above  the  fruit,  should  be  stopped 
at  the  first  leaf,  and  subsequently  as  made.  The  stopping  should  be 
done  when  the  leaf  at  the  stopping  joint  is  about  the  size  of  halfpenny, 
and  very  important  for  allowing  more  growth  to  be  made  than  there  is 
room,  and  not  considering  that  a  little  lateral  extension  is  desirable, 
causes  overcrowding,  and  that  is  fatal  to  good  results.  Very  close 
stopping,  however,  is  not  desirable  where  there  is  room  for  extension, 
the  increased  root  action  and  elaborating  power  being  corresponding  to 
the  foliage ;  therefore  make  provision  for  an  enlargement  of  growth,  and 
retain  all  the  foliage  consistent  with  its  full  exposure  to  air  and  light. 
Maintain  a  temperature  of  65°  at  night,  5°  more  for  Muscats  when  the 
Grapes  are  in  flower.  As  some  varieties  do  not  set  freely  brush  the 
bunches  over  with  a  camel’s-hair  brush  or  bunch  of  feathers,  when  the 
“  caps  ”  come  off  freely,  and  apply  pollen  taken  from  varieties  that 
afford  it  abundantly,  which  usually  results  in  a  good  set,  especially  if 
accompanied  by  a  constant  circulation  of  rather  dry  warm  air.  Com¬ 
mence  thinning  when  the  berries  are  about  the  size  of  small  peas,  it 
then  being  seen  which  berries  are  fertilised  by  their  taking  the  lead  in 
swelling.  Ventilate  carefully  a  little  at  a  time,  so  as  not  to  reduce  the 
temperature,  only  to  prevent  its  rising  too  suddenly  and  too  high.  Main¬ 
tain  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere  after  the  Grapes  are  set  by 
damping  the  paths  and  borders  in  the  morning  and  at  closing  time. 
Water  inside  borders  with  tepid  liquid  manure  not  less  in  temperature 
than  the  house,  or  employ  some  approved  fertiliser  and  wash  in 
moderately. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Dahlias. — Strong  young  plants  with  one  clear  stem  are  preferred  to 
old  stools  and  several  shoots,  and  that  whether  extra  fine  exhibition 
blooms  or  quantities  of  flowers  for  cutting  or  otherwise  are  required. 
Instead,  therefore,  of  planting,  or  may  be  dividing  the  old  stools,  the 
better  plan  is  to  start  these  in  gentle  heat,  and  root  cuttings  from 
them.  Set  the  roots  closely  together  in  a  newly  started  vinery  or  other 
m  iderately  warm  house,  covering  all  but  the  collars  with  moist  soil. 
Numerous  Btrong  shoots  will  soon  be  formed,  and  these  should  be  taken 
off  with  a  heel  when  not  more  than  3  inches  long.  If  left  till  they  are 
too  long  to  be  taken  with  a  heel — that  is  to  say,  till  they  are  become 
hollow  stemmed,  they  will  not  root.  Fill  3-inch  or  rather  smaller  pots 
with  loamy  soil,  put  a  little  sharp  sand  in  the  holes  made  for  a  cutting, 
and  fix  the  latter  firmly.  Close  frames  and  a  moist  bottom  heat  are  not 
desirable,  the  cuttings  rooting  most  readily  when  set  not  far  from  hot- 
water  pipes,  or  on  an  old  fashioned  flue  in  a  moderately  warm  house. 
Cuttings  thus  raised  and  given  one  shift  would  make  fine  plants  by  the 
middle  of  May,  but  later  rooted  plants  do  not  require  a  shift.  Dahlias 
can  also  be  easily  raised  from  seed,  though  a  stock  of  named  plants  well 
selected  is  much  to  be  preferred  to  seedlings,  many  of  which  are  seldom 
worth  garden  room.  Sow  the  seed  in  pans,  place  these  in  a  fairly  brisk 
heat,  cover  with  squares  of  glass.  Shade  and  keep  the  soil  uniformly 
moist.  When  the  seedlings  are  of  good  size,  and  before  they  spoil  each 
other,  either  place  singly  in  3-inch  pots  or  prick  them  out  4  inches  apart 
each  way  in  boxes  of  good  soil.  The  plants  in  either  case  would  trans¬ 
plant  readily,  and  flower  freely  this  summer. 
Cannas. — These  are  among  the  noblest  of  bedding  plants,  and  suit¬ 
able  alike  for  massing  or  for  associating  with  other  plants.  Not  only  is 
their  foliage  of  a  highly  ornamental  character,  but  the  flowers  are  also 
very  effective.  The  dwarf  hybrids  are  particularly  good,  the  flowers  of 
these  almost  rivalling  Gladioli  in  size,  the  colours  also  being  very  bright 
and  good.  In  order  to  be  sure  of  the  seeds  germinating  quickly  and  well 
they  must  be  soaked  in  water  till  they  are  swollen  to  double  their  original 
size.  This  may  take  place  in  a  day  or  two,  or  it  may  be  three  weeks 
before  they  are  sufficiently  swollen  and  soft  to  place  in  soil.  Bottles 
of  water  are  most  to  be  preferred,  the  seed  being  less  likely  to  be  left 
dry  in  these,  and  they  may  be  either  plunged  in  a  brisk  bottom  heat  or 
stood  in  the  evaporating  troughs  or  hot-water  pipes.  Sow  the  swollen 
seeds  singly  in  3-inch  pots  filled  with  moist  warm  soil,  and  plunge  in  a 
moderate  strong  bottom  heat.  When  these  pots  are  filled  with  roots 
shift  into  6-inch  pots,  using  a  rich  loamy  compost,  and  with  the  aid  of  a 
little  heat  strong  plants  will  be  ready  for  bedding  out  early  in  June. 
Clumps  that  have  been  kept  through  the  winter  may  be  started  in 
heat  as  advised  in  the  case  of  Dahlias,  and  when  the  growths  are 
2  inches  or  rather  more  in  length,  split  up  and  divide  so  as  to  reserve 
a  few  strong  roots  with  each  shoot.  Potted  off  singly  they  will  soon 
become  re-established,  and  a  good  stock  of  plants  will  be  the  result. 
Fentstemons, — In  order  to  be  certain  of  perpetuating  good  named 
varieties  cuttings  ought  to  have  been  rooted  last  autumn,  wintered  in 
cold  frames,  and  prepared  for  bedding  out  in  April  or  May.  Seedlings, 
however,  are  quite  as  beautiful  as  named  varieties,  a  single  packet  of 
seed  giving  a  large  number  of  plants.  Sow  the  seed  at  once  on  the 
surface  of  well  prepared  pans  of  soil.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  moisten  the 
latter  prior  to  sowing  the  seed,  covering  lightly  with  fine  soil.  Place 
in  a  frame  over  a  hothed  or  in  a  fairly  brisk  heat,  cover  with  squares 
of  glass,  and  shade  heavily  till  the  seedlings  appear.  The  latter  being 
early,  pricked  out  in  pans  or  boxes  of  good  fine  soil,  and  kept  for  a  time 
in  gentle  heat,  will  soon  be  large  enough  for  hardening  off,  and  if 
planted  out  in  beds  or  borders  of  well  prepared  soil  by  the  middle  of 
May  a  fine  display  will  be  made  this  season. 
