February  4,  1«97. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
101 
LILIUM  CANADENSE. 
This  usually  grows  about  2  feet  high,  producing  slender  stems, 
clothed,  lanceolate  leaves  arranged  in  whorls,  and  terminated  by  a  few 
pendent  flowers  ;  the  perianth  is  bell-shaped,  yellow,  spotted  inside, 
especially  below  the  segments,  slightly  recurved  (see  engraving).  It  is 
a  very  distinct  and,  to  my  mind,  pretty  species,  and  can  easily  be 
distinguished  by  the  bulbs,  which  are  often  supported  on  almost  naked 
runners.  It  was  one  of  the  first  introduced  Lilies  from  America,  having 
been  figured  by  Parkinson  (Parad,  32,  t.  2),  where  also  a  good  descrip¬ 
tion  is  given.  It  is  very  variable  in  character,  mainly  in  colour,  as 
distributed  over  the  continent  of  North  America,  passing  from  yellow 
to  deep  orange  red. — C. 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
R.H.S.  Examination. 
I  Made  a  promise  recently  which  the  Editor  has  allowed  me  to 
keep,  and  below  will  be  found  my  friendly  lecture. 
The  R.H.S.  examination  will  be  held  this  year  on  the  6th  of  April, 
and  all  candidates  wishing  to  sit  must  send  in  their  names  to  the 
“  Secretary,  117,  Victoria  Street,  London,”  not  later  than  the  first  week 
in  February.  If  any  young  gardener  would  like  to  sit,  and  there  is  no 
centre  near,  he  should  ask  the  clergyman  or  schoolmaster  in  his  district 
to  conduct  an  examination  on  his  behalf.  On  the  night  of  the  examina¬ 
tion  a  paper  of  questions  is  given  to  each  candidate.  Look  through  the 
paper  carefully,  and  read  the  rules,  if  there  be  any,  following  them  out 
explicitly.  Then  read  through  the  questions,  and  mark  those  you  can 
answer  best,  selecting  and  answering  the  easier  questions  first,  leaving 
the  more  difficult  until  last. 
Before  beginning  to  answer  the  questions,  read  each  one  through 
carefully  and  try  to  understand  its  real  meaning  ;  then  give  your  answer 
clearly,  in  the  fewest  words  possible.  Read  through  your  answers,  and 
see  that  you  have  made  no  mistake,  or  left  anything  unanswered.  It  is 
always  best  to  divide  the  question  into  parts  where  several  items  are 
asked  ;  take  each  part  separately  and  answer  it,  putting  a ,  b ,  &c.  (in 
brackets),  before  the  separate  answers,  similarly  to  the  way  I  have  in 
my  answers. 
Make  use  of  every  minute  of  the  two  and  a  half  hours  allowed — 
which  I  think  is  half  an  hour  too  short — and  only  reply  to  what  you  are 
asked,  for  I  know  from  experience  what  a  tendency  there  is  to  drag  in 
something  which  has  nothing  to  do  with  the  question.  My  advice  to 
those  who  intend  to  try  to  gain  the  medal,  or  a  first-class  certificate,  is, 
every  night  try  and  read  something  about  the  work  you  have  that  day 
been  engaged  in  doing,  and  when  finished,  ask  yourself  a  question  and 
write  out  an  answer  to  it.  Read  how  others  do  the  same  work  in  which 
you  are  engaged,  and  try  to  think  which  method  is  best.  Buy  Mr. 
j.  Wright’s  “Primer  of  Horticulture”  (Is.),  Mr.  R.  P,  Wright’s 
“  Agriculture  ”  (Is.  6d.),  and  Mr.  J.  Oliver’s  “  Elementary  Botany  ” 
(2s.  6d.),  and  from  these  you  will  be  able  to  get  sufficient  information  of 
a  scientific  and  practical  nature  to  answer  any  questions  you  may  be 
asked  at  the  R.H.S.  exam. 
And  now,  young  gardeners,  take  my  advice,  go  in  for  the  exam  and 
win,  and  if  you  get  the  medal  before  I  do,  no  one  will  be  more 
pleased  at  your  success  than — A  Student, 
Potting. 
First  in  this  important  branch  of  plant  cultivation  we  must  have 
clean  pots,  and  a  stock  should  always  be  ready  when  wanted.  If  dirty  pots 
be  used  much  harm  will  be  done  to  the  plants  by  their  roots  clinging  to 
the  sides  when  the  plants  are  turned  out  for  repotting  ;  and  besides, 
dirty  pots  are  unsightly  and  discreditable. 
Next  comes  the  draining  of  the  pots.  This  must  be  carefully  done, 
or  stagnation  at  the  roots  will  ensue,  ending  in  the  ruin  of  the  plants. 
The  proper  way  to  drain  a  pot  is  to  place  the  outer  part  of  a  piece  of 
potsherd  over  the  hole,  cover  this  with  a  layer  broken  smaller,  finishing 
with  the  smallest  at  the  top.  As  to  the  depth  of  drainage  required, 
judgment  must  be  exercised,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  plant  and 
the  size  of  the  pot.  For  thumbs  two  or  three  pieces  would  be  ample, 
whereas  for  a  5-inch  pot  not  less  than  an  inch  should  be  given.  A  very 
good  guide  is,  for  every  4  inches  in  depth  to  allow  1  inch  of  drainage. 
Protect  with  a  layer  of  sphagnum  moss  or  turf,  to  prevent  any  of  the 
soil  being  washed  down  and  choking  the  drainage. 
Soil  used  in  potting  should  neither  be  too  wet  nor  too  dry  ;  the 
former  will  probably  become  souj,  while  the  latter  will  not  take  the 
water  properly.  The  soil  should  be  rough  and  open — never  sifted, 
except  for  cuttings.  The  chief  materials  used  in  potting  are  fibry  loam, 
peat,  leaf  mould,  sand,  horse,  cow,  and  artificial  manures.  The  loam 
and  peat  should  be  broken  in  pieceB  with  the  band,  in  different  sizes, 
from  a  horse  bean  to  that  of  a  hen’s  egg,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
plant. 
The  plants  to  be  operated  upon  should  be  watered  at  least  a  day 
before  potting,  so  as  to  properly  moisten  the  ball.  The  plant  after  being 
potted  will  not  then  need  water  for  some  time,  and  the  roots  will  heal 
that  may  have  been  damaged  in  shifting  from  one  pot  to  the  other.  In 
potting  never  fill  the  pots  full  of  soil,  but  leave  space  for  sufficient 
water  to  pass  to  the  drainage.  For  plants  in  6-inch  pots  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  suffices,  up  to  about  2  inches  for  the  largest  pots. 
In  using  the  new  soil,  it  should  be  used  of  the  same  firmness  all 
round  as  the  older  central  ball.  For  hard  wooded  plants  the  soil 
requires  to  be  rammed  solid,  to  prevent  the  water  making  its  way  down 
the  sides  of  the  pots,  leaving  the  centre  dry.  For  stove  plants  the  soil 
should  always  be  warmed  through,  so  as  not  to  give  the  roots  a  chill, 
which  is  harmful. 
After  potting  the  plants  should  be  kept  rather  closer,  until  root 
action  has  commenced,  shading  from  the  hot  rays  of  the  sun  and 
syringing  them  occasionally,  again  bringing  them  gradually  to  full  light 
and  air. — J,  W. 
Potting  Cattleyas. 
First,  the  pots  mast  be  clean  and  of  various  sizes,  while  if  new  they 
should  be  soaked  before  using  them.  The  crocks  should  also  be  clean, 
and  as  large  as  they  can  be  used.  The  soil  must  be  good  fibrous  peat, 
broken  to  about  the  size  of  hen’s  eggs  ;  if  it  is  rubbed  on  the  hands  two 
or  three  times  whilst  breaking  most  of  the  small  particles  will  be 
removed.  When  much  has  to  be  prepared  a  coarse  sieve  may  be  used 
for  the  purpose.  Potting  sticks  made  of  hard  wood  are  necessary.  One 
should  be  about  14  inches  in  length  for  pressing  down  the  crocks,  the 
FIG.  25.— LILIUM  CANADENSE. 
other  8  inches  for  the  soil ;  both  should  be  somewhat  pointed,  and  if 
rubbed  on  a  smooth  piece  of  iron  the  hard  smooth  surface  imparted  will 
work  freely  in  the  soil. 
Imported  plants  must  have  the  roots  loosened,  leaving  enough  to 
help  to  fix  the  plant  when  potting.  Sponge  the  plants  with  soapy 
water,  using  a  rather  stiff  brush  for  the  pseudo-bulbs,  taking  great  care 
not  to  injure  the  eyes  or  buds  at  the  base.  Six-inch  pots  and  larger  may 
be  half  filled  with  crocks,  using  straight  ones,  and  placing  them  upright, 
working  more  in  when  the  plant  is  in  position  until  the  pot  is  nearly 
three  parts  filled.  With  smaller  pots  it  is  best  to  hold  the  plant  in 
position  with  one  hand,  working  the  crocks  amongst  the  roots  with  the 
other.  Keep  the  back  bulbs  against  the  side  of  the  pot,  and  if  there  is 
room  for  them  to  make  a  season  or  two’s  growth  in  the  pot  it  will  be 
large  enough.  When  there  are  several  leads  some  must  be  placpd 
towards  the  centre  as  well  as  the  sides,  thus  making  good  round  plants  ; 
if  this  is  neglected  there  will  be  nothing  but  old  bulbs  in  the  centre, 
which  make  the  plants  unsightly. 
Some  growers  fix  their  plants  with  crocks,  placing  one  end  against 
the  rhizome  and  the  other  against  the  pot,  letting  them  stand  a  little 
above  the  soil  and  keeping  clear  of  the  eyes.  This  is  the  method  I 
follow,  as  it  prevents  the  soil  going  together  and  getting  sour.  A  stake 
ought  to  be  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  pot  for  securing  the  tallest 
pseudo-bulb,  and  keeping  the  plant  firm.  If  the  crocks  are  straight  and 
placed  in  the  pot  upright,  the  stake  will  drive  down  straight ;  if  not,  it 
will  loosen  the  crocks  and  disturb  the  plant,  and  a  slanting  plant  looks 
slovenly. 
Begin  potting  at  the  front  of  the  plant,  which  should  be  a  little 
