102 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
February  4,  18«7. 
above  the  rim  of  the  pot,  working  the  peat  in  firmly,  keeping  the 
rhizomes  clear ;  a  few  heads  of  moss  may  also  be  worked  in  as  the 
potting  proceeds,  bat  not  too  thickly,  as  it  keeps  too  wet  for  a  Cattleya. 
When  finished  the  stick  should  be  run  around  the  rim  of  the  pot, 
making  a  small  groove  so  that  the  water  will  soak  through  the  peat. 
Finish  staking  and  tying  the  plant  into  shape,  having  the  stakes  the 
same  height  as  the  pseudo-bulbs. — Second  of  Three. 
(To  be  continued.) 
Growing  and  Forcing  Lily  of  the  Valley. 
No  flowers  are  more  esteemed  during  the  dreary  months  of  winter 
than  the  fragrant  Lilies.  They  are  equally  welcome  in  sprays,  wreaths, 
bouquets,  or  glasses  for  house  decoration  associated  with  their  own 
charming  foliage.  When  retarded  crowns  are  available  for  autumn  and 
early  winter  work,  and  specially  prepared  English  and  Dutch  crowns 
can  be  procured  for  early  forcing,  there  is  no  difficulty  in  keeping  up  a 
supply  if  good  bottom  heat  is  provided. 
I  wish  now  to  draw  attention  to  a  system  which  combines  the  mini¬ 
mum  of  labour  and  expense  with  very  satisfactory  results.  To  begin 
with,  one  must  have  a  good  plantation  of  well-grown  crowns  established 
for  three  or  four  years.  Lilies  delight  in  rich  soil  and  a  northern 
aspect.  The  crowns  should  be  planted  early  in  spring,  2  or  3  inches 
apart,  in  rows  a  foot  asunder.  The  after  treatment  consists  in  keeping 
the  surface  free  from  weeds,  affording  an  annual  top-dressing  of  leaf 
soil  or  well-decayed  manure,  and  seeing  that  the  plants  do  not  lack 
water  in  the  growing  season,  weak  liquid  manure  being  beneficial.  At 
the  end  of  three  years,  if  grown  successfully,  the  ground  will  be  a  mass 
of  crowns,  and  then  forcing  may  begin. 
Pieces  to  fit  exactly  into  ordinary  seed  boxes  should  be  cut  in  the 
early  winter,  and  the  boxes  when  filled  stood  where  they  will  be  exposed 
to  the  frosts  till  required  for  forcing.  When  taken  in  they  may  be  stood 
on  the  hot-water  pipes  under  a  stage,  covered  thickly  with  moss  and 
given  abundance  of  water.  In  a  week  or  two  they  will  have  started 
growing,  and  when  the  flower  spikes  are  visible  the  boxes  must  be 
assigned  a  light  position  in  a  warm  house. 
By  this  treatment  we  have  had  an  uninterrupted  supply  of  fragrant 
Lilies  since  the  middle  of  December,  and  the  foliage  developed  with  the 
spikes.  I  may  mention  that  in  this  district  (South  Lincolnshire)  great 
tracts  of  woodland  are  carpeted  with  Lilies  which  flower  profusely. 
—0.  C. 
Conservatory  Management. 
This  is  a  very  important  and  at  the  same  time  a  very  pleasant  portion 
of  a  gardener’s  duty.  It  is  a  subject  about  which  comparatively  little  is 
written,  and  I  am  afraid  the  manner  in  which  some  conservatories  are 
managed,  judging  from  the  appearance  of  their  interior,  admits  of  very 
little  being  said.  It  makes  very  little  difference  in  giving  a  general 
description  of  management  whether  the  conservatory  is  attached  to 
the  mansion  or  only  a  house  set  apart  for  the  display  of  collections  of 
ornamental  plants. 
In  the  selection  of  climbers  judgment  should  be  exercised.  There  is 
a  large  variety  from  which  to  choose.  Coboea  scandens,  Tacsonia  Van 
Volxemi,  Clianthus  puniceus,  Lapagerias  rosea  and  alba  are  all  well 
adapted  to  certain  positions,  thriving  well  and  retaining  their  foliage  all 
the  year  round.  In  the  case  of  those  climbers  which  are  victims  to 
thrips,  green  fly,  and  red  spider,  such  as  Lapagerias  and  Clianthus,  it  is 
a  good  plan  to  hang  to  the  rafters  with  a  lightly  constructed  wirework- 
frame,  which  should  be  fastened  in  such  a  manner  that  it  could  be  easily 
detached.  The  climbers  should  then  be  tied  on  to  the  framework.  If 
this  is  done  the  task  of  keeping  them  clean  will  be  made  much  easier, 
particularly  where  the  conservatory  adjoins  the  residence,  when 
fumigating  is  out  of  the  question.  All  that  it  is  necessary  to  do  is  to 
take  down  the  wirework  frame  with  the  climbers  attached,  lay  it  on  the 
floor,  and  syringe  with  some  insecticide.  This  operation  does  not  take  up 
much  time,  and  it  can  be  done  much  more  efficiently  with  the  plant  on  the 
ground  than  if  it  were  tied  to  the  fixtures  in  the  roof.  Before  replacing 
it  wash  the  rafters  with  a  weak  solution  of  softsoap  and  water  to  kill  any 
insects  which  may  be  lodging  in  the  crevices.  Not  only  will  this  method 
be  found  convenient  in  the  work  of  cleaning  the  plants,  but  it  is  equally 
so  when  the  house  has  to  be  painted .  Instead  of  being  possibly  one  or' 
two  days  in  removing  climbers,  as  is  often  the  case,  they  can  be  taken 
down  in  almost  as  many  minutes  and  without  much  injury  to  the  shoots. 
In  many  conservatories  there  are  pillars  or  supports  of  different 
kinds  for  the  roof.  It  is  necessary  that  these  should  be  covered,  and 
suitable  plants  must  be  selected.  Acacia  dealbata  is  perhaps  one  of  the 
best  plants  for  this  work,  beautiful  foliage  rendering  it  very  attractive 
even  when  not'  in  bloom.  Asparagus  plumosus  is  also  very  useful  and 
elegant.  Plants  of  Mardchal  Niel  Rose  are  attractive  in  association  with 
the  Asparagus.  These  Roses  should  be  grown  in  pots  so  that  they  can 
be  easily  taken  out  and  cleaned  in  case  of  attacks  of  mildew  or  green  fly. 
When  they  have  finished  blooming  they  may  be  taken  down  altogether, 
leaving  the  Asparagus  alone  to  cover  the  pillar.  There  are  many  other 
plants  suitable  for  pillar  work  which  may  be  used  with  equally  pleasing 
effect. 
Suspended  baskets  add  very  much  to  the  beauty  of  a  conservatory. 
Ivy-leaved  Geraniums  (Pelargoniums)  are  excellent  plants  for  basket 
culture,  flowering  freely,  and  are  highly  attractive.  The  Stag’s  Horn 
Fern  (Platy cerium  alcicorne),  planted  in  a  compost  of  peat  and 
sphagnum,  is  also  very  useful.  This  Fern  will  completely  cover  the 
baskets  and  is  very  effective.  Another  thing  in  its  favour  is  that  it  does 
not  require  so  much  attention  as  most  other  plants. 
In  the  selection  of  the  plants  which  I  have  mentioned  I  have  not 
included  any  of  a  deciduous  nature  excepting  the  Rose.  There  are 
many  of  this  (deciduous)  class  which  are  very  pretty,  but  I  do  not 
favour  them  for  conservatory  decoration,  preferring  those  which  are 
evergreen,  so  that  the  roof  is  always  furnished  with  foliage  if  not  with 
flowers. — P.  W. 
(To  be  continued.) 
Draclenas. 
One  of  our  most  useful  foliage  plants  for  room  decoration,  I  think, 
is  the  Dracaeoa.  Its  graceful  habit,  combined  with  the  richly  coloured 
foliage,  rendering  it  attractive  in  whatever  style  of  decoration  it  is 
employed.  Especially  are  well-grown  plants  adapted  for  single  vase 
work  in  48-size  pots.  To  obtain  good  plants  for  autumn  and  winter 
work  they  should  be  rooted  early.  The  stems  and  roots  of  old  plants 
which  have  grown  tall  may  be  cut  into  lengths  of  from  1  inch  to  1^  inch 
and  placed  in  well-drained  pans  of  light  Bandy  soil,  then  plunged  in 
bottom  heat  of  75°  to  80°.  In  the  case  of  root  cuttings  I  would  advise 
keeping  them  separate.  Give  a  thorough  watering  with  warm  water, 
but  withhold  the  water  from  the  stem  cuttings  for  a  week  or  so,  for  by 
so  doing  they  are  not  so  likely  to  decay.  The  tops  from  the  old  plants 
may  be  readily  rooted  by  placing  them  in  small  pots  (in  the  compost 
advised)  and  plunged  in  a  close  hand-light  in  brisk  bottom  heat,  shading 
from  strong  sun. 
As  soon  as  the  young  plants  in  the  cutting  pans  are  large  enough  to 
handle  place  them  singly  in  60-size  pots,  and  keep  them  growing  in 
brisk  moist  heat.  As  soon  as  these  pots  become  filled  with  roots  the 
plants  should  receive  another  shift,  taking  care,  however,  not  to  overpot. 
A  suitable  compost  is"  two  parts  good  fibry  loam,  two  parts  peat,  with 
enough  sand  to  keep  the  whole  open,  to  which  add  a  sprinkling  of  horn 
shavings  or  bonemeal.  Dracaenas  are  subject  to  the  ravages  of  red 
spider  and  thrips,  and  plants  are  very  soon  disfigured  if  the  damping  is 
at  all  neglected.  When  the  days  are  bright  the  plants  should  be  shaded 
from  the  sun  or  the  tender  leaves  will  scald.  A  temperature  of  70°  to 
80°  will  suit  them  best. — E.  H.,  Osberton. 
Gloxinias. 
Gloxinias  are  very  easy  to  grow,  and  should  be  in  every  collection 
of  plants.  They  make  a  charming  display  when  the  different  colours 
are  blended  together.  The  flowers  being  very  delicate  should  be  handled 
carefully.  Dotted  about  in  a  fernery  or  a  subtropical  house  shows  the 
plants  to  perfection.  They  can  be  raised  either  from  seeds  or  from  leaves. 
Seed  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  gathered,  or  iu  the  spring,  in  shallow 
pans,  using  a  light  compost,  watering  it  previously  with  a  fine-rosed 
can,  covered  with  a  sheet  of  glass,  and  shade  till  germination  is  apparent. 
Great  care  must  be  taken  at  this  stage  not  to  let  the  plants  get  drawn  or 
the  soil  dry,  or  the  seedlings  will  perish.  When  large  enough  to  move 
prick  them  2  or  3  inches  apart.  When  nearly  touching  each  other  place 
them  singly  in  large  60-size  pots,  using  one-third  each  of  loam,  peat,  and 
silver  sand,  and  a  little  powdered  charcoal. 
Stand  them  in  a  frame  or  pit  with  a  good  bottom  heat,  keeping  close 
and  shaded  for  a  few  days  till  they  start  into  growth,  when  a  little  air 
may  be  given,  but  avoid  sharp  currents.  Shade  on  all  occasions  during 
bright  weather,  and  close  early  in  the  afternoon  with  plenty  of  moisture. 
Gloxinias  should  not  be  syringed  at  any  time.  In  a  few  weeks  they 
will  be  ready  for  48's,  using  the  same  mixture  as  before,  adding  a  little 
leaf  soil. 
On  all  occasions  use  clean  pots  with  plenty  of  drainage.  Some 
growers  prefer  to  pot  firmly,  but  my  experience  has  been  the  reverse. 
When  the  plants  have  commenced  to  root  into  the  new  soil  give  a  little 
liquid  manure  once  or  twice  a  week  till  further  established,  when  it  may 
be  given  every  watering.  A  great  point  in  growing  Gloxinias  is  to 
feed  them  well,  also  damp  the  walls  and  pathways  with  the  liquid. 
They  will  revel  in  this  atmosphere,  and  give  large  clusters  of  blooms 
with  handsome  foliage.  The  night  temperature  when  growing  should 
be  60°,  with  a  rise  of  10°  in  the  daytime  ;  when  in  flower  55°  to  60°. — 
Dunelm. 
Vine  Culture. 
( Continued  from  page  80.) 
When  the  Vines  are  in  flower  give  the  canes  a  gentle  shake  two  or 
three  times  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  which  is  all  free-setting  varieties 
like  Black  Hamburgh,  Black  Prince,  Gros  Colman,  Gras  Maroc,  Appley 
Towers,  Buckland  Sweetwater,  and  Foster’s  Seedling  require.  Muscats, 
white  and  black,  should  be  gone  over  with  a  camel-hair  brush,  or  a 
rabbit’s  tail  will  do  quite  as  well,  first  brushing  over  a  bunch  or  two  of 
Black  Hamburgh  if  in  flower,  as  it  has  always  plenty  of  pollen  ;  Appley 
Towers  will  do  as  well,  and  is  in  flower  after  Black  Hamburgh  in  the 
same  house. 
The  most  difficult  varieties  to  set  well  are  Black  Morocco,  Canon 
Hall  Muscat,  Alnwick  Seedling,  and  a  variety  of  Alicante  of  which 
there  is  one  cane  here.  Have  two  rabbits’  tails,  one  well  dusted  with 
pollen  off  some  free-setting  variety  ;  with  the  other  gently  take  off  the 
little  globules  of  water  at  the  point  of  the  pistil,  then  with  the  first 
tail  or  brush  apply  the  pollen.  Without  doing  this  most  of  the  berries 
will  be  stoneless.  When  the  berries  are  stoning  the  house  may  be  kept 
cooler  till  the  berries  commence  swelling  again,  when  the  thermometer 
may  run  up  to  90°  after  closing  in  the  evening  without  doing  any  harm 
When  the  Grapes  commence  colouring  more  air  will  be  required  and 
ventilation  continued  much  longer  in  the  evenings  ;  in  fact,  a  little  all 
night  will  do  good  if  the  nights  are  mild.  With  regard  to  thinning  the 
bunches  and  the  distance  between  each  berry  we  must  be  guided  by  the 
variety  ;  Muscat  of  Alexandria  and  Gros  Guillaume,  when  the  shoulders 
