104 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
February  4,  1897. 
become  heated,  then  turn  the  material  before  violent  heat  is  produced, 
outside  to  inside,  damping  any  dry  portions,  but  in  case  the  heating 
does  not  occur  quickly  the  materials  must  be  turned  after  a  few  days 
and  receive  water  as  required.  In  making  hotbeds  select  a  dry  place 
or  employ  a  layer  of  faggots  for  the  foundation,  taking  care  to  make  the 
bed  large  enough  for  the  season  ;  5  feet  high  at.  back  and  4  feet  in  front, 
with  the  material  well  beaten  down,  will  not  be  too  high. 
Place  the  frame  in  the  bed,  and  in  four  days  or  so  level  the  bed  if 
necessary  by  adding  the  requisite  material,  and  place  on  the  centre  of 
each  light  about  a  barrowful  of  soil  in  the  form  of  a  flattened  cone,  the 
top  about  I  foot,  not  more,  from  the  glass.  When  the  heat  does  not 
exceed  85°  to  90°  in  the  hillocks  place  a  plant  in  the  centre  of  each, 
pressing  the  soil  firmly  around  the  ball,  taking  care  not  to  injure  the 
stem,  and  a  little  dry  soot  drawn  in  a  ring  round  each  plant  will  protect 
it  from  slugs.  The  day  temperature  should  be  70°,  with  10°  to  15°  more 
from  sun  heat,  losing  no  opportunity  of  admitting  a  little  air  to  allow 
of  the  escape  of  rank  steam  or  accumulated  moisture,  but  in  no  case 
must  air  be  admitted  to  lower  the  temperature  below  70°.  The  night 
temperature  should  be  60°  to  65°,  5°  more  in  mild  weather.  The  plants 
should  be  stopped  at  the  second  rough  leaf  for  frames  and  pits.  Instead 
of  planting  out  too  soon  in  bouses  shift  into  larger  pots  as  required, 
securing  the  stems  to  small  stakes  and  rubbing  off  the  laterals  to  the 
height  of  the  bottom  wire  of  the  trellis. 
Pines. — The  plants  recently  started  into  fruit  will,  if  in  good  con¬ 
dition  at  the  roots,  produce  strong  suckers.  When  these  are  large  enough 
to  handle  all,  except  one  to  each  plant,  should  have  the  centres  taken 
out  in  order  to  check  the  growths.  To  supplement  the  autumn-potted 
plants  select  others  which  have  been  wintered  in  7  or  8-inch  pots, 
choosing  the  most  vigorous  plants.  The  remainder  of  such  plants  should 
be  reserved  until  the  general  spring  potting,  when  they  should  be  shaken 
out  and  treated  like  suckers.  Procure  fibrous  loam  with  the  herbage 
reduced,  or  if  used  fresh  it  should  be  placed  where  it  can  be  heated  so  as 
to  kill  the  grass  aDd  any  larvae  or  insects  it  may  contain,  and  when  torn 
np  in  suitable  compost  add  a  quart  of  soot,  two  of  wood  ashes,  and  a  pint 
of  superphosphate  to  each  barrowload.  If  the  loam  has  been  laid  up  it 
must  be  had  under  cover  some  little  time  before  using  to  become  dried. 
Drain  the  pots  moderately  but  efficiently,  dusting  with  wood  ashes  or 
soot  so  as  to  exclude  worms  ;  and  keep  the  plants  well  down  in  the 
pots,  ram  the  soil  firmly  round  the  roots,  leaving  sufficient  space  to 
admit  of  copious  supplies  of  water  being  given  when  necessary.  For 
Queens  10-inch  pots,  and  11  or  12  inches  are  suitable  for  those  of  stronger 
growth.  A  temperature  of  60°  to  65°  will  be  sufficient  for  these  plants, 
also  for  those  potted  last  autumn,  and  80°  to  85°  at  the  roots. 
Plants  in  beds  about  to  be  started  into  fruit  must  not  have  the  heat 
at  the  base  of  the  pots  over  90°  or  95°,  or  their  roots  will  be  injured. 
If  sufficient  fruit  be  started  to  meet  the  requirements,  late  succeesional 
plants  may  be  advanced  slowly,  these  with  autumn  potted  suckers 
requiring  careful  watering,  especially  where  the  heat  is  supplied  by 
fermenting  materials. 
Strawberries  In  Pots.—  The  earliest  plants  have  thrown  up 
trusses  strongly,  especially  La  Grosse  Sucr6e,  Royal  Sovereign,  and 
Vicomtesse  Hericart  de  Thury.  The  fruit  having  set  freely  and  being 
well  thinned  are  advanced  in  swelling.  This  should  be  accelerated  in 
a  temperature  of  60°  to  65°  or  70°  by  artificial  means,  and  10°  to  15° 
advance  from  sun  heat,  maintaining  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmo¬ 
sphere  by  damping  and  light  syringing  on  fine  afternoons.  When  the 
fruit  commences  ripening  a  drier  atmosphere  will  improve  the  flavour 
and  colour  of  thp  fruit.  Plants  advancing  to  the  flowering  stage  must 
not  be  hurried,  50°  to  55°  being  ample  by  artificial  means,  and  60°  to 
65°  with  sun  heat  and  free  ventilation,  but  avoid  cold  draughts,  especi¬ 
ally  directly  upon  the  plants,  as  these  cause  the  young  fruit  to  become 
brown  and  cease  swelling.  More  plants  should  be  started  without 
delay,  such  varieties  as  Noble,  President,  Sir  Joseph  Paxton,  Auguste 
Nicaise,  James  Veitch,  Lucas,  and  Sir  Charles  Napier,  affording  grand 
fruit,  introducing  along  with  them  some  of  the  early  varieties,  such  as 
La  Grosse  Sucrde,  Royal  Sovereign,  and  VicomteBBe  Hericart  de  Thury, 
so  as  to  secure  the  succession  unbroken,  and  have  high-class  produce. 
Keep  a  sharp  look  out  for  aphides  in  the  early  stages,  fumigating  upon 
their  first  appearance,  for  they  insinuate  themselves  into  the  opening 
buds,  and  give  much  trouble  unless  promptly  destroyed  ;  indeed  good 
fruit  cannot  be  had  if  the  pests  get  a  strong  hold  on  the  plants,  and  the 
time  to  destroy  them  is  before  flowering. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Carrots  and  Radishes. — These  can  be  forced  together  in  the 
same  frame  or  pit.  Prepare  a  gentle  hotbed  of  leaves  and  stable 
manure,  or  the  latter  alone.  If  frames  are  deep,  after  setting  these  on 
the  beds  half  fill  with  some  of  the  shortest  of  the  heating  material, 
raising  to  6  inches  from  the  glass  with  fine  sandy  soil.  When  all 
danger  of  over-heating  is  past  open  shallow  drills  8  inches  apart  for  the 
Carrot  seed,  and  midway  between  these  sow  the  Radishes.  Sow  the  seed 
thinly,  and  cover  with' fine  soil.  The  frame  should  be  kept  darkened 
and  close  till  the  Radish  seed  has  germinated,  after  which  admit  all  the 
light  possible,  and  air  whenever  the  weather  is  favourable.  When  the 
sun  gains  in  power  considerably  ventilate  freely,  and  keep  the  soil 
uniformly  moist. 
Cauliflowers. — Plants  not  protected  have  been  much  injured  by 
the  late  frosts,  but  those  roughly  protected  are  apparently  healthy. 
They  do  not  transplant  readily  from  either  seed  beds  or  where  pricked 
ont,  moving  best  out  of  3-inch  pots.  Now  is  a  good  time  to  place  a 
portion  or  all  of  the  Btock  in  these  pots,  using  rich  loamy  compost  and 
potting  firmly.  Keep  in  gentle  heat  till  the  plants  have  rooted  into  the 
fresh  soil,  after  which  they  should  be  kept  in  cool  frames  or  on  green¬ 
house  shelves  till  they  can  be  planted  out  in  hand-lights  at  the  foot  of 
south  walls,  or  in  other  positions  where  they  can  be  roughly  protected 
when  necessary.  More  seed  should  now  be  sown  thinly  in  pans  or 
boxes.  Before  the  plants  become  drawn  transfer  to  shelves  near  the 
glass  in  gentle  heat.  After  they  have  formed  rough  leaves,  either  place 
singly  in  3-inch  pots  or  in  pairs  in  4-inch  pots,  sinking  the  stems  to  the 
seed  leaves.  Keep  them  in  heat  till  well  rooted,  then  arrange  them 
either  on  a  greenhouse  shelf  or  in  cool  pits  and  frames.  Duly  hardened 
and  planted  out  before  they  become  root-bound  these  early  raised  plants 
will  form  a  close  succession  to  those  raised  in  the  autumn. 
Celery. — If  early  Celery  is  wanted,  seed  of  a  good  white  variety 
ought  now  to  be  sown  on  the  surface  of  fine  light  soil  in  pans,  watering 
this  before  rather  than  after  sowing,  and  covering  very  lightly  with  fine 
soil.  Place  in  brisk  moist  heat,  cover  with  a  square  of  glass,  and  shade 
heavily  till  the  seeds  germinate.  Raise  the  seedlings  well  up  to  the 
glass,  and  prick  out  in  boxes  or  pans  of  rich  soil  soon  after  the  rough 
leaf  has  formed  on  them. 
Keeks. — If  these  are  wanted  extra  fine  early  in  the  season  seed 
ought  to  be  sown  at  once  thinly  in  a  pan  or  box.  It  will  germinate 
most  quickly  if  subjected  to  a  brisk,  moist,  bottom  heat,  subsequent 
treatment  also  to  be  the  same  as  recommended  for  early  Celery.  For 
ordinary  purposes  the  plants  may  be  raised  in  the  open,  sowing  the  seed 
with  the  Onions  early  in  March. 
Iiettuces. — Early  frame-grown  Lettuces  are  always  appreciated. 
Sow  the  seed  thinly  in  pans,  and  place  in  heat  to  germinate.  Before 
the  young  plants  become  drawn  move  the  pans  to  a  swing  shelf  in  warm 
greenhouse.  If  raised  thinly  there  will  be  no  need  to  prick  them  out, 
as  small  plants  may  safely  be  transferred  direct  to  beds  of  rich  soil. 
Hard  forcing  must  not  be  attempted.  Form  solid  hotbeds  in  shallow 
pits  or  in  a  sheltered  position  for  frames,  raising  the  6  inches  of  rich 
loamy  soil  in  these  well  up  to  the  glass.  Keep  well  supplied  with 
moisture,  and  avoid  undue  coddling. 
Onions. — If  fine  roots  are  needed  for  the  August  shows  these  are 
best  obtained  by  raising  the  plants  early  in  heat,  duly  planting  out  on 
film  rich  ground.  Onions  treated  in  this  way  are  also  less  liable  to  be 
destroyed  by  the  Onion  maggot,  and  the  crops  mature  early,  keeping 
well  accordingly.  Sow  seed  at  once  thinly  in  boxes  of  good  soil  to 
obviate  tbe  necessity  for  pricking  out  into  other  boxes  later  on.  If 
possible  place  the  boxes  on  a  hotbed  of  so.oe  kind,  and  failing  this  in 
brisk  moist  heat,  till  the  seed  has  germinated,  raising  them  up  to  nearer 
the  gJa9s  to  prevent  the  seedlings  from  becoming  spindly. 
Tomatoes. — Strong  young  late  summer  raised  plants  in  10-inch  or 
larger  pots,  or  else  planted  out  in  ridges  of  soil,  will  soon  be  giving  ripe 
fruit,  and  the  flowers  will  also  open  and  set  more  satisfactorily  than 
during  the'duller  days  of  early  winter.  If  there  is  ample  room  reserve 
some  of  the  side  shoots  which  are  constantly  pushing  forth,  as  these  will 
give  early  clusters  of  fruit.  If  there  are  no  fruit  on  the  lower  parts  of 
the  stems,  remove  the  older  leaves  and  lay  in  a  youDg  growth  from  near 
the  ground.  Top-dress  and  otherwise  feed  old  plants,  and  these  will 
also  produce  abundance  of  fruitful  growths,  the  crops  ripening  well  in 
advance  of  any  obtained  from  plants  raised  early  in  the  winter. 
Raising  Tomato  Plants. — Seed  ought  always  to  be  sown  thinly  in 
pans.  It  will  germinate  quickly  in  brisk  heat,  and  the  seedlings  should 
be  raised  well  up  to  the  light  and  sunshine  before  they  become  drawn. 
When  in  rough  leaf  lift  them  out  of  the  pans  with  a  label,  and  sink 
them  singly  and  up  to  their  seed  leaves  in  2^-inch  pots.  Return  to  light 
staging  or  bedB  in  a  forcing  house,  and  before  they  become  root-bound 
either  shift  into  5-inch  or  slightly  larger  pots,  or  plant  direct  where 
they  are  to  fruit.  Extra  strong  seedlings  may  be  placed  in  pairs  in 
6-inch  pots,  this  obviating  the  necessity  for  a  shift,  but  they  must 
have  the  benefit  of  a  temperature  from  60°  to  70°,  and  be,  carefully 
watered  for  a  time. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Chrysanthemums. — As  these  become  rooted  harden  them  if  they 
have  been  under  hand-lights,  and  place  them  on  a  shelf  fllose  to  the  glass, 
to  prevent  their  being  drawn  up  weakly.  If  in  thumb  pots  be  careful 
the  soil  does  not  become  dry,  and  when  the  plants  are  well  rooted  transfer 
them  into  2£-inch  pots.  They  will  grow  sturdily  if  placed  where  the 
temperature  does  not  fall  below  40°.  Cuttings  must  still  be  inserted  ; 
where  the  plants  are  required  to  produce  large  flowers  place  them  singly 
in  small  pots.  Those  for  ordinary  decoration  may  be  inserted  thickly 
in  boxes,  and  covered  with  a  square  of  glass.  Early  and  late  flowering 
varieties  are  very  useful  where  cut  flowers  are  largely  in  demand.  Good 
supplies  of  the  former  should  be  rooted  ;  there  is  no  hurry  about  the 
latter,  and  we  rarely  root  the  whole  stock  of  these  before  March.  As 
the  old  stooD  are  thrown  out  wash  the  pots  and  store  them  away  ready 
for  the  time  when  they  will  be  wanted.  A  note  should  be  made  of  any 
extra  pots  that  may  be  needed,  so  that  there  will  be  no  delay  at  potting 
time.  Sort  the  stakes,  and  provide  fresh  ones  in  the  place  of  those  too 
short.  If  these  are  to  hand  they  can  be  painted  in  readiness,  while  work 
outside  is  at  a  standstill. 
Mignonette. — Fill  5-inch  pots  with  a  compost  of  three  parts  fibry 
loam,  the  other  part  being  composed  of  leaf  mould  and  sand  with  one- 
Beventh  of  decayed  manure.  Make  the  surface  even,  and  sow  seed  of  a 
good  strain  evenly,  cover  tbe  Feed  with  fine  soil,  and  water  with  a  fine- 
rose  can.  If  the  pots  are  placed  in  a  vinery  just  started  the  seed  will 
soon  germinate  ;  gradually  harden  and  place  them  on  a  shelf  close  to  the 
glass,  where  the  temperature  will  not  fall  below  45°.  Thin  out,  if  neces¬ 
sary,  those  raised  from  seed  sown  early  in  September.  Keep  these  as 
cool  as  possible.  If  any  of  the  plants  are  growing  weakly  pinch  out  the 
