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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
February  11,  1897, 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
The  R.H.S.  Examination. 
In  “  A  Student’s  ”  excellent  advice  given  to  young  gardeners  who 
wish  to  sit  for  the  R.H.S.  examination  he  says  that  “  All  candidates 
wishing  to  sit  must  send  in  their  names  to  the  Secretary  not  later  than 
the  first  week  in  February.”  Is  this  not  a  mistake  ?  I  communicated 
with  the  Secretary  some  time  ago  and  received  a  form  in  reply,  which 
was  to  be  filled  in  and  returned  not  later  than  March  16th.  If  it  is  a 
mistake  I  think  it  advisable  that  it  should  be  corrected,  or  many  would- 
be  examinees  may  give  up  the  idea  of  sitting  this  year,  being  under  the 
impression  that  they  are  too  late. — W.  R.  R. 
Testing  Early  Tomatoes. 
I  should  like  to  say  a  few  words  on  the  two  following  Tomatoes — 
namely,  Sutton’s  Earliest  of  All  and  Frogmore  Selected,  which  we 
grew  side  by  side  last  season.  The  seed  was  sown  singly  in  small  pots 
the  9th  of  December,  1895,  and  placed  in  a  house  with  the  temperature 
of  50°  to  55°.  As  soon  as  the  plants  appeared  they  were  moved  to 
another  house  with  a  temperature  of  60°.  There  they  remained  on  a 
shelf  near  the  glass  until  the  22nd  of  January,  when  they  were  trans¬ 
ferred  to  5-inch  pots.  When  almost  touching  the  glass  they  were 
shifted  into  12-inch  pots.  When  about  4  feet  6  inches  high  they  were 
topped,  and  also  top-dressed  with  fresh  soil,  and  eventually,  when  the 
pots  were  full  of  roots,  supported  by  liquid  manure.  Sutton’s  Earliest 
of  All  ripened  two  days  before  Frogmore  Selected,  the  first  fruits  being 
gathered  on  the  24th  of  April. — L. 
“The  Victorian  Era  Fund.” 
May  I  be  permitted  a  little  space  in  the  “  Young  Gardeners’ 
Domain  ”  to  refer  to  the  above  subject  ?  In  the  Journal  of  Horticulture, 
January  21st,  I  read  with  interest  Mr.  Veitch’s  appeal  to  all  gardeners 
to  help  in  raising  a  sum  of  £5000,  “the  income  from  which  shall  be 
devoted  to  affording  temporary  assistance  to  those  applicants  who  are 
waiting  to  be  placed  on  the  pension  list  ”  of  the  “  Gardeners’  Royal 
Benevolent  Institution.”  I  should  like  to  suggest  to  all  “Bothyites” 
that  each  one  give  what  he  can,  and  let  the  foreman  or  someone  who 
collects,  send  the  full  amount  to  Mr.  H.  J.  Veitch.  I  think  a  good  sum 
■of  money  might  be  collected  towards  the  fund  by  the  young  gardeners 
of  Britain  if  they  would  combine  for  the  purpose.  I  hope  to  collect  and 
send  a  little  from  the  bothy  I  am  in  at  present. — Yorkshireman. 
[If  every  young  gardener  would  give  even  a  shilling  it  would  amount 
to  a  goodly  sum — a  day’s  wage  from  gardeners,  old  and  young— would 
-make  a  noble  contribution.] 
Azaleas. 
Azaleas,  I  think,  will  always  be  favourites,  for  scarcely  another 
■race  of  plants  exists  that  produce  such  a  quantity  of  flowers  as  these  do 
when  grown  to  perfection.  Wherever  a  number  of  these  plants  are 
grown  for  conservatory  or  house  decoration  they  give  what  is  probably 
the  finest  display  of  blooms  obtainable  throughout  the  year.  Azaleas 
are  also  most  useful  for  cutting  purposes,  such  as  dinner  table  decorations 
or  bouquets. 
After  the  plants  have  done  blooming,  and  all  the  withered  flowers 
are  cleared  off,  the  younger  plants  should  be  repotted  and  then  placed 
in  a  house  with  a  temperature  ranging  between  50°  to  60°,  with  plenty 
of  air  when  the  weather  is  favourable,  syringing  morning  and  evening. 
When  they  have  finished  their  growth  the  temperature  should  be  gradu¬ 
ally  lowered,  until  they  can  be  removed  out  of  doors  to  ripen  the  wood, 
but  should  be  placed  back  in  a  cool  house  before  the  frost  sets  in. 
The  soil  generally  used  in  the  gardens  I  have  been  in  is  this — namely, 
three  parts  of  good  fibrous  peat,  one  part  of  light  loam,  one  part  of  leaf 
mould,  and  one  part  of  silver  sand,  with  a  light  addition  of  artificial 
manure,  such  as  Clay’s  or  Thomson’s.  In  draining  the  pots  we  had  to 
be  very  careful,  covering  the  bottoms  nearly  4  inches. 
Azaleas,  if  not  kept  well  syringed,  often  cause  trouble  through  attacks 
of  thrips  or  green  fly.  These  pests  can  be  destroyed  by  fumigating  with 
tobacco  paper  ;  but  I  think  young  gardeners  ought  to  get  the  head  ones 
to  procure  the  XL  fumigators,  as  I  am  one  who  does  not  like  tobacco 
smoke. — W.  L. 
Potting  Cattleyas. 
{Continued  from  page  102.) 
Ip  established  plants  were  potted  properly  in  the  first  instance  very 
few  will  require  pulling  in  pieces,  but  if  through  inattention  the 
growths  are  near  the  edge  of  the  pot,  and  the  centre  empty,  they  should 
be  divided  and  put  together  properly.  If  the  plants  are  well  rooted  the 
pots  should  be  broken  and  tbe  pieces  picked  away,  but  when  they  cannot 
be  separated  without  iDj'uring  the  roots  they  may  be  left  on.  If  large 
crocks  were  used  in  the  previous  potting,  two  pieces  of  raffia  tied  around 
'the  ball  so  as  to  cross  over  the  rhizomes  and  underneath  the  crocks  will 
keep  all  in  place,  but  if  small  crocks  were  used  most  of  them  will  fall 
away,  and  it  will  injure  the  roots  to  fill  them  in  again.  With  large 
plants  it  is  advisable  to  measure  the  old  ball  with  a  stick  and  the  inside 
of  the  pot  as  a  guide  to  the  depth  of  crocks  will  be  wanted  in  tbe  bottom 
to  have  the  plant  its  proper  height  when  in  position.  With  the  long 
potting  stick  the  crocks  cau  be  worked  into  their  places  until  the  pot 
is  filled  to  the  required  height,  finishing  with  compost  aB  advised  for 
imported  plants. 
Cattleya  Bowringiana  should  be  potted  a  little  higher  than  the  others, 
as  each  growth  it  makes  is  lower  than  tbe  previous  one.  This  is  the 
only  variety  1  know  that  grows  down  to  the  soil  except  Cattleya  citrina. 
If  these  are  potted  in  the  same  manner  as  other  Cattleyas  they  make 
their  growth  lower  each  eeason,  and  turn  their  heads  downwards,  which 
is  their  nature.  Some  growers  place  them  on  rafts  in  their  natural 
position.  They  should  always  be  suspended  from  the  roof,  which  is  the 
best  place  for  the  choice  varieties. — A  Second  of  Three. 
Single  Dahlias  from  Seed. 
To  obtain  strong  plants  for  autumn  flowering  seed  should  be  sown 
now  or  before  the  middle  of  the  month  in  a  compost  of  loam,  leaf 
mould,  and  sand,  in  rather  deep  pans,  and  placed  in  heat,  about  60°. 
If  the  seed  is  good  the  seedlings  will  appear  in  about  a  fortnight.  When 
large  enough  to  handle  they  should  be  placed  in  60-size  pots,  using  the 
same  compost  as  before.  Place  them  on  a  shelf  near  the  glass,  shade 
from  bright  sunshine,  and  syringe  to  keep  down  green  fly.  As  soon  as 
the  roots  touch  the  sides  of  the  pots  the  plants  should  be  pinched.  They 
will  then  soon  push  out  three  or  more  side  shoots  ;  they  should  then  be 
shifted  into  48-sized  pots,  this  time  adding  a  little  more  loam  to  the 
compost.  They  may  be  placed  near  the  glass  in  a  frame  on  a  balf-spent 
hotbed,  shading  a  little  at  first,  always  using  the  syringe  freely  oi 
closing  the  frame,  and  in  due  time  top  them  again. 
About  the  middle  of  April  they  will  be  ready  for  their  final  shift 
into  82-sized  pots,  some  into  larger,  according  to  the  size  and  strength  of 
the  plants,  using  a  compost  of  three  parts  rough  loam  and  one  part 
spent  Mushroom  bed  refuse,  adding  a  good  portion  of  sharp  sand.  Again 
place  in  a  frame  and  keep  close  until  growth  has  commenced,  when  air 
should  be  admitted  through  the  day.  Syringe  and  close  the  frame  at 
night.  Pinch  them  once  more,  gradually  harden,  finally  removing  the 
lights  altogether. 
By  the  middle  of  June  the  Dahlias  will  be  ready  to  plant  out.  Place 
a  little  well  decayed  farmyard  manure  in  the  bottom  of  rather  large 
holes,  covering  with  soil,  so  that  the  roots  do  not  come  directly  in 
contact  with  the  manure.  Press  the  soil  firmly  around,  and  support 
the  plants  with  stakes.  They  yield  abundance  of  beautiful  flowers  of 
various  colours.  These  are  very  useful  for  house  and  table  decoration, 
and  especially  church  decoration,  which  is  generally  required  about  their 
time  of  flowering. — Learner. 
Conservatory  Management. 
( Continued  from  page  102.) 
In  the  general  arrangement  of  the  conservatory  I  do  not  favour  borders 
along  the  centre  of  the  house  planted  with  Camellias,  as  is  often  the  case. 
These  “  fixtures,”  if  they  may  be  so  termed,  from  their  occupying  tbe 
position  all  the  year  round,  appear  somewhat  stale,  and  interfere  gene¬ 
rally  in  the  arranging  of  plants  in  pots  to  the  best  advantage.  A  house 
with  a  clear  tiled  floor  is  preferable  to  either  planted  borders  or  stages 
in  the  centre.  Small  borders  may  be  formed  round  the  sides  in  which 
to  plant  the  climbers.  These  borders  should  be  covered  with  clean  sand, 
and  plants  may  then  be  stood  on  them.  Grouping  is  perhaps  tbe  most 
effectual  way  of  arrangement  for  the  centre  of  the  house.  Groups 
arranged  lightly  and  tastefully  are  highly  attractive. 
In  furnishing  the  conservatory  it  will  be  found  advantageous  to  work 
on  a  system,  having  collections  of  well  grown  plants  which  will  closely 
succeed  each  other  in  blooming.  These  collections  will  form  a  distinct 
feature  at  the  different  seasons  of  the  year. 
In  January  Camellias,  Cytisus,  Ericas,  and  Epacris  will  predomi¬ 
nate  ;  also  Roman  Hyacinths,  Cyclamen  and  Primulas.  Plants  of 
Azalea  mollis  and  Rhododendrons,  which  may  be  lifted  from  an  outside 
border,  should  be  put  in  heat.  These  soon  expand  their  flowers  and 
make  a  good  show.  Do  not  force  too  many  at  once,  but  keep  a  few  back 
to  occupy  the  places  of  the  earlier  ones.  Dutch  bulbs  are  very  service¬ 
able  at  this  season,  and  no  conservatory  should  be  without  them.  Small 
quantities  placed  in  heat  at  intervals  of  about  three  weeks  will  maintain 
an  unbroken  supply  of  bloom.  A  few  Deutzias  may  also  be  put  in 
gentle  heat  to  be  steadily  coming  on.  Amoeoa  Azaleas  force  well,  and 
are  also  very  useful.  During  this  month  the  house  should  be  kept  at 
a  temperature  of  50°  to  55°  in  the  daytime  without  sun,  allowing  it  to 
fall  5°  or  10°  in  the  night.  Attention  must  be  paid  to  ventilating  on 
favourable  occasions. 
In  February  tbe  conservatory  will  be  gay  with  the  same  kind  of 
plants  as  in  the  previous  month,  continuing  into  March,  Cinerarias 
being  tbe  chief  addition.  These  plants  having  been  raised  from  seed 
sown  in  June,  and  having  proper  cultural  treatment,  should  now  be  in 
full  bloom.  They  will  make  very  good  substitutes  for  the  Epacris,  and 
many  of  the  Heaths,  which  by  this  time  will  be  ready  for  removal.  The 
Epacris  and  Erica  hyemalis  should  have  their  fading  flower  shoots 
pruned  back  to  about  an  inch  from  the  base,  assigning  the  plants  a  light 
position  in  a  cool  house,  but  kept  rather  close  until  growth  is  a  little 
advanced,  when  air  may  be  freely  admitted.  A  light  dressing  with 
Standen’s  manure  will  assist  the  plants  in  making  growth.  A  few 
Hyacinth,  Tulip,  and  Narcissus  bulbs  Bhould  be  put  in  a  cold  frame  in 
order  to  keep  the  flower  spikes  back  as  much  as  possible,  and  so  prolong 
the  supply.  Shade  them  from  the  sun  and  admit  air  freely. 
By  the  end  of  the  month  of  March,  or  early  in  April,  the  Camellias 
and  many  of  the  forced  plants  will  be  ready  for  removal.  Ghent 
Azaleas  and  Rhododendrons  should  be  still  kept  in  a  little  heat  until 
growth  is  complete,  when  they  may  be  again  planted  in  an  outside 
border.  Camellias  should  also  be  placed  in  a  warm  house  (an  early 
vinery  being  very  suitable),  and  liquid  manure  given  to  stimulate 
growth. 
Having  cleared  all  plants  which  are  unfit  for  further  use  out  of  the 
conservatory,  the  climbers  should  next  be  attended  to.  Pick  out  all 
