124 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
February  11,  1897. 
WOW  FOI^THE WEEK.. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Planting  Prult  Trees  and  Bushes. — Fruit  trees  of  varied  forms 
and  Bizes,  also  small  bush  fruits,  may  still  be  planted.  Choose  the 
driest  periods  which  occur  in  the  course  of  the  present  and  succeeding 
month.  They  will  succeed  well  if  planting  is  carefully  carried  out, 
presuming  that  due  attention  is  given  to  the  preliminary  details  regard¬ 
ing  the  soil  and  the  treatment  of  the  trees.  The  demands  of  the  trees 
in  lifting  and  replanting  should  be  carefully  studied,  so  as  to  avoid 
checks  to  the  future  growth.  The  most  important  matter,  and  one  that 
is  frequently  overlooked,  is  to  prevent  the  roots  becoming  dried  by  cold 
parching  winds,  or  lying  exposed  to  the  sun. 
Preparing  Ground. — The  position  for  planting  is  best  if  previously 
prepared  in  autumn  by  deep  digging  or  trenching,  in  order  that  the 
soil,  if  light  and  rich,  may  have  become  consolidated.  Firm  ground  suits 
fruit  trees  better  than  soil  lying  very  light  and  open  in  texture. 
Autumn  preparation  is  strongly  recommended  for  heavy  retentive  soil. 
It  absolutely  requires  a  period  of  exposure  to  atmospheric  influences. 
This  is  best  secured  by  thoroughly  breaking  up  the  soil  and  subsoil, 
allowing  frost,  rain,  wind,  and  the  changes  of  temperature  to  act 
beneficially  upon  it.  In  spring,  as  soon  as  the  surface  dries  sufficiently, 
forking  it  over  will  render  it  more  workable  and  suitable  for  planting. 
When  it  is  necessary  to  prepare  the  soil  and  plant  shortly  after,  the  site 
chosen  should  be  neither  light  nor  heavy,  but  fertile  soil  of  a  medium 
texture.  In  some  cases  the  ground  needs  but  little  preparation,  the 
high  cultivation  accorded  to  a  preceding  crop  having  brought  it  into  a 
desirable  condition,  a  level  surface  only  being  required. 
Excavations  for  Planting. — After  the  space  has  been  marked  out, 
and  the  positions  for  planting  indicated,  excavations  for  the  roots  should 
be  prepared.  They  must  be  wide,  in  accordance  with  the  length  of  the 
roots.  Comparatively  shallow  holes  are  required,  or  of  a  depth  that  the 
bole  of  the  trees  when  planted  will  be  no  lower  in  the  soil  than  before, 
as  indicated  by  the  earth  marks  on  the  stems. 
Character  of  Trees. — The  most  suitable  trees  for  planting  now  or  at 
other  times  are  those  furnished  with  abundance  of  fibrous  roots.  Strong 
roots  bare  of  fibres  ought  not  to  predominate.  They  are  not  so  essential 
as  a  more  plentiful  supply  of  the  weaker  roots  which  have  numerous 
rootlets  attached.  The  latter  more  readily  take  hold  of  the  soil,  thus 
rendering  the  trees  or  bushes  more  quickly  established.  . 
Treatment  of  the  Roots. — The  transference  of  young  trees  from  one 
part  of  a  garden  to  another  does  not  cause  much  mutilation  of  the  roots 
if  extra  care  is  taken  in  lifting,  so  that  plenty  of  soil  adheres.  The  work 
can  be  done  expeditiously,  so  that  the  roots  are  not  dried.  The  treat¬ 
ment  of  trees  received  from  nurseries  depends  on  the  method  of  packing. 
The  best  firms  pack  the  roots  carefully.  All  they  require  is  to  cut 
smoothly  the  bruised  and  broken  ends  after  unpacking,  and  lay  the 
trees  in  quickly  in  moist  soil  until  they  can  be  finally  planted.  Trees 
that  have  very  dry  root3  from  any  cause  should  be  immersed  in  water 
to  assist  in  freshening  the  flaccid  tissues.  R Highly  dug  up  specimens 
have  many  broken  and  injured  roots,  which  should  be  cut  smoothly 
above  the  points  where  damaged.  Cleanly  pruned  roots  sooner  push 
forth  new  additions,  which  in  their  turn  originate  young  fibres. 
Planting. — The  disposal  of  the  roots  in  the  soil  is  of  importanc  i  to 
encourage  a  good  start.  Spread  them  as  much  as  possible  horizontally 
with  layers  of  soil  between,  not  crowding  them  in  a  mass  or  fixing  them 
in  a  vertical  direction.  Place  the  trees  on  a  slightly  convex-shaped 
mound.  Employ  the  best  of  the  soil  for  spreading  among  the  roots. 
Suitable  material  may  be  made  by  crushing  it  moderately  fine  and 
intermixing  with  a  proportion  of  wood  ashes  or  burnt  refuse. 
Pruning. — Shortening  the  branches  is  most  essential  with  young 
trees,  and  when  the  roots  are  few.  A  tree  with  few  roots  cannot 
support  the  first  season  long  branches,  causing  every  bud  to  start. 
Such  as  these  should  be  shortened  considerably  so  as  to  promote 
free  growth.  Trees  not  having  a  requisite  number  of  branches  must 
be  cut  closely  back  to  obtain  them  in  the  desired  positions.  Well 
rooted  trees  do  not  receive  severe  checks  in  planting,  and  these  need 
less  shortening  with  the  exception  of  those  being  incompletely  furnished 
with  branches.  Apples  and  Pears  having  the  terminal  bud  of  any 
leading  branch,  a  flower  bud  must  have  such  pruned  back  to  a  wood 
bud,  so  that  the  extension  of  growth  may  continue.  A  suitable  time 
to  prune  is  when  the  buds  commence  to  swell. 
Staking  and  Mulching. — All  trees  which  cannot  resist  being  moved 
by  wind  must  be  secured  with  stakes  and  ties,  not  injuring  the  bark. 
Complete  the  work  by  mulching  the  surface  with  partially  decayed 
manure  as  far  as  the  roots  extend. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines, —  Earliest  House. — The  weather  on 
the  whole  since  the  turn  of  the  days  has  been  fairly  favourable  for 
forcing  operations,  and  where  proper  attention  has  been  given  to  ventila¬ 
tion,  fertilising  the  flowers,  and  the  maintenance  of  a  suitable  tempera¬ 
ture  the  set  of  fruit  is  satisfactory.  Any  varieties  still  in  flower  should 
have  the  blossoms  brushed  over  daily  with  a  feather,  though  shaking  the 
trellis  answers  in  many  cases,  especially  when  the  house  is  kept  rather 
dry.  When  the  flowers  fade  a  moderate  syringing  with  water  of  the 
same  temperature  as  the  house  will  assist  in  bringing  off  the  remains  of 
the  petals. 
Avoid  undue  haste  in  the  forcing,  for  success  depends  on  sure,  steady 
progress.  Disbud  cautiously,  commencing  with  the  foreright  shoots  first, 
following  from  the  upper  and  upright  parts  of  the  tree  downwards  to  the 
horizontal  branches  at  the  base.  Shorten  any  bearing  growths  left  full 
length  in  pruning  to  a  growiag  bud  on  a  level  with  or  above  the  fruit. 
Fumigate  on  the  first  appearance  of  aphides,  but  not  whilst  the  trees 
are  in  flower,  and  be  careful  not  to  give  too  much,  as  the  foliage  and 
fruit  are  very  susceptible  of  injury.  Keep  the  surfaces  near  the  hot- 
water  pipes  moistened  as  they  become  dry,  and  supply  water  or  liquid 
manure  to  the  border  as  required.  A  few  sweetened  horse  droppings 
may  occasionally  be  sprinkled  on  the  border  for  giving  off  ammonia, 
acting  as  a  check  to  red  spider,  and  supplying  nourishment  to  the  roots  ; 
but  avoid  heavy  mulching,  as  this  encourages  wood  growth  at  the 
expense  of  the  fruit,  and  must  not  be  given  until  the  stoning  process  is 
completed. 
Maintain  a  day  temperature  of  55°  artificially,  50°  at  night,  and  60° 
to  65°  by  day.  with  a  little  ventilation  and  gleams  of  sun,  ventilating 
fully  above  65°,  being  careful  to  avoid  cold  currents,  and  close  sufficiently 
early  to  raise  the  temperature  10°  from  sun  heat  above  the  ordinary 
temperature. 
Succession  Houses. — Trees  started  at  the  new  year  have  the  flowers 
expanded,  and  will  need  but  moderate  atmospheric  moisture,  syringing 
the  trees  being  discontinued  ;  damp  the  paths  and  borders  occasionally  to 
secure  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere.  Trees  started  with  the 
current  month  should  be  syringed  until  the  blossoms  commence  opening, 
and  where  the  buds  are  thick  remove  those  on  the  under  side  of  the 
trellises.  Before  the  flowers  expand  it  is  a  good  practice  to  fumigate  the 
house  on  a  calm  afternoon,  when  the  trees  are  dry,  to  destroy  any  aphides 
that  may  exist,  and  so  keep  the  trees  free  from  these  pests  until  the 
fruits  are  set.  Inside  borders  must  not  lack  moisture  ;  therefore,  if  there 
is  any  doubt  on  this  point  make  an  examination,  and  give  a  thorough 
supply  of  water  or  liquid  manure  if  the  trees  are  enfeebled  by  repeated 
forcipg  or  need  succour. 
Late  Houses. — The  blossoms  in  these  have  been  kept  back  by  the 
weather,  and  are  generally  in  a  healthy  condition.  Where  the  lights 
have  been  removed  they  need  not  be  replaced  until  the  time  for  starting 
the  trees  or  the  blossom  buds  ate  advanced  in  swelling,  and  it  is  not  safe 
to  longer  expose  them.  Trees  under  fixed  roofs  must  have  the  inside 
borders  kept  moist  and  freely  ventilated,  so  as  to  keep  the  trees  in  good 
condition  for  giving  full  crops  of  fruit.  Lifting  and  re-arranging  trees 
in  late  houses  may  still  be  proceeded  with,  bringing  such  operations  to  a 
close  as  soon  as  possible,  yet  avoid  working  about  trees  and  in  borders  in 
bad  weather,  for  it  only  converts  the  soil  into  mud,  and  it  bakes  and 
cracks  afterwards,  forming  an  impermeable  mass,  or  letting  the  water 
through  it  by  the  fissures. 
Vines. — Earliest  Forced  in  Pots. — Where  the  bunches  are  properly 
thinned,  and  not  too  many  retained,  the  Vines  will  push  laterals,  but  if 
overburdened  with  fruit  they  come  to  a  standstill,  and  the  fruit  suffers 
more  or  less,  therefore  aid  such  Vines  by  a  careful  cutting-out  of  the 
eyes  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves  below  the  bunch  on  each  shoot,  taking 
care  not  to  injure  the  leaves.  This  will  assist  the  Grapes  in  swelling, 
and  may  cause  the  shoots  to  push  laterals  above  or  on  a  level  with  the 
fruit.  The  laterals  beyond  the  bunches  will  require  pinching  at  every 
joint  where  the  space  is  limited,  rubbing  off  those  below  them  ;  but 
where  there  is  room  those  in  advance  of  the  fruit  may  be  allowed  more 
freedom,  tying  them  down  to  the  trellis 
Top-dress  the  soil  with  freshly  cut  turf,  but  the  grass  reduced  in  lump* 
the  size  of  a  hen’s  egg  and  sweetened  horse  droppings  in  equal  proportions, 
adding  to  every  bushel  a  pint  each  of  soot  and  bone  superphosphate, 
with  a  quart  of  wood  ashes,  mixing  well.  To  maintain  the  top-dressing 
in  position  peg  with  galvanised  wire  reversed  turves  around  the  rim, 
thus  forming  a  receptacle  for  the  top-dressing.  If  the  pots  are  standing 
on  loose  brick  pedestals  and  fermenting  materials  are  placed  around  the 
pots  the  roots  will  extend  over  the  rims,  and  being  fed  with  liquid 
manure  the  fruit  will  be  finer  in  proportion. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Vines. — Stopping,  tying,  and  thinning 
must  have  needtful  attention,  removing  surplus  bunches  before  they  have 
time  to  rob  the  Vines,  for  that  prejudices  the  current  and  next  year’s 
crop.  A  judicious  thinning  of  the  bunches  does  not  always  mean  a 
corresponding  reduction  in  weight  when  the  Grapes  are  ripe,  and  it 
invariably  tends  to  good  finish.  Let  the  laterals  extend  as  much  above 
the  bunches  as  the  space  warrants,  but  not  allowing  more  leaves  to  be 
made  than  can  be  duly  exposed  to  light,  making  allowance  for  an 
increase  of  growth  through  stopping.  Liquid  manure  in  a  weak  and 
tepid  state  may  be  given  to  inside  borders  ;  mulch  with  short  sweetened 
manure  from  the  stables,  but  avoid  excessive  quantities,  as  too  much 
ammonia  is  prejudicial,  whilst  a  little  benefits  the  Vines. 
Damp  the  house  in  the  morning,  and  at  closing  time  or  early  in  the 
afternoon,  ventilating  a  little  between  70°  and  75°,  and  keeping  through 
the  day  at  803  to  85°  from  sun  heat.  Close  so  as  to  maintain  that 
temperature,  or  run  up  to  90°,  the  heat  at  night  falling  to  65°  or  60°  in 
the  morning  of  cold  nights,  maintaining  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  or 
5°  less  if  cold  and  dull. 
Early  Muscat  House. — To  have  Muscat  of  Alexandria  ripe  in  June, 
which  is  as  soon  as  this  variety  may  be  depended  on,  the  Vines  require 
to  be  started  about  the  middle  of  December,  and  to  be  brought  on 
steadily,  as  in  a  close  and  moist  atmosphere  the  foliage  becomes  very 
