. 
J5»  February  18,  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
135 
advocate*  his  system,  and  believes  in  no  other.  On  the  other  hand 
there  is  a  gardener  who  also  grows  this  beautiful  Carnation  equally 
'well,  but  in  strict  opposition  to  the  syringing  »ystem,  never  on 
any  account  allowing  the  foliage  to  be  moistened.  He  is  equally 
vehement  in  his  advocacy  of  his  practice,  and  in  condemnation  of 
that  of  the  former  grower.  It  is  when  “looking  round”  that 
(argumentative  force  is  brought  to  bear  on  each  side,  the  end  of  it 
all  being  that  opinions  remain  much  about  the  same.  But  which 
is  right  ?  may  be  the  question  naturally  asked.  To  all  appearance 
results  prove  that  both  are,  and  the  advice  is  in  such  cases,  and 
they  are  by  no  means  few,  “  Use  your  own  judgment,  and  follow 
that  which  answers  best.” 
As  a  means  of  education,  nothing  is  more  instructive  to  the 
gardener  than  a  “  look-  round  ”  the  establishments  under  the  care 
•of  others,  for  the  simple  reason  that  there  is  always  something  to 
learn.  Here  is  a  gardener  who  is  puzzled  over  the  failure  of  a 
particular  crop.  He  tries  various  ways  and  means  till  he  has 
exhausted  his  own  store  of  knowledge,  and  still  he  is  unsuccessful. 
It  occurs  to  him  that  an  acquaintance  of  his  succeeds  in  growing 
that  with  which  he  fails.  Ah  !  happy  thought,  he  will  choose  an. 
early  opportunity  of  going  to  see  his  friend — “  have  a  look  round,” 
and  at  the  same  time  obtain  from  him  the  desired  information. 
By  such  means  one  gardener  is  able  to  render  practical  assistance 
to  another  in  a  way  that  is  perfectly  understood  by  the  fraternity. 
There  are,  of  course,  seasons  for  gardening  visits,  and  among  Chrys¬ 
anthemum  enthusiasts  the  flowering  period  of  the  autumn  queen 
is  the  favoured  time.  Emulated,  perhaps,  by  a  spirit  of  rivalry, 
and  with  that  desire  to  know  what  everyone  else  has  got  so  common 
to  the  craft,  “  Mum  struck  ”  gardeners  exchange  their  friendly 
“visits  of  inspection  and  criticism. 
Then  there  is  the  social  feature,  or,  in  other  words,  that  spirit 
of  friendliness  so  conspicuous  amongst  gardeners.  Perhaps  in  no 
other  occupation  does  this  exist  to  a  similar  extent.  Note  again 
“  the  look  round.”  The  visiting  gardener  notices  a  particular 
plant  and  admires  it.  “  Has  he  got  it  ?  ”  No,  but  would  like  a 
few  cuttings.  Certainly,  and  straightway  a  few  are  taken  off. 
"Watch  him  again  as  he  takes  his  leave  ;  he  has  quite  a  burden 
of  cuttings  and  plants,  yet  no  idea  of  imposition  ever  occurs  to 
him,  as  he  knows  full  well  when  his  friend  repays  the  visit  he 
will  return  similarly  laden.  So  the  feeling  is  mutual,  and  one 
“takes  a  real  interest  in  the  well-being  of  the  other.  Then  in  times 
of  adversity  the  gardener  turns  for  sympathy,  and,  what  is  more 
practical,  assistance,  to  a  brother  in  the  calling,  and  rarely  comes 
away  disappointed.  The  latter  is  a  pleasant  and  gratifying  feature, 
speaking  volumes  for  the  good  fellowship  that  exists. 
Keen  indeed  is  the  spirit  of  competition  that  everywhere 
exists,  yet  the  enmity  common  in  most  trades  and  professions  is 
markedly  absent  among  gardeners.  There  appears  to  be  an  under¬ 
current  of  good  feeling  that  knits  one  to  another.  It  is  one  of 
the  most  gratifying  phases  of  the  craft,  and  is  Darticularly  notice¬ 
able  in  the  hearty  welcome  extended  by  the  average  gardener 
when  you  call  to  have  “a  look  round.” — Monock. 
BARE  WALL?. 
How  seldom  do  we  see  the  walls  of  lean-to  houses  covered  with  really 
useful  creepers  or  plants?  If  it  be  a  vinery  Roses  sometimes  are 
employed  for  the  purpose,  but  I  have  usually  noticed  they  are  not  very 
satisfactory,  as  the  temperature  necessary  for  the  well-being  of  the  Vines 
at  certain  periods  of  their  growth  is  unsuitable  for  Roses.  Moreover, 
the  laterals  of  the  Vines  extending  over  the  roof  greatly  obstruct  both 
I  ght  and  sun  from  the  Roses. 
Where  appreciated  there  is  nothing  better  for  the  purpose  than  the 
S  >uth  African  Asparagus,  A.  plumosus  nanus,  or  A  tenuissimus.  The 
-former  to  the  floral  decorator  is  an  inestimable  aid  in  almost  any  kind 
of  arrangement,  the  sprays  having  the  valuable  property  of  retaining 
their  freshness  in  water  for  a  week  or  two.  The  latter  is  quite  distinct 
from  A.  p.  nanus,  and  better  adapted,  perhaps,  for  entwining  around 
the  slender  stems  of  many  glass  vases  than  that  species.  I  have  found 
strong  thread  secured  to  a  peg  driven  into  the  border  at  the  base, 
fastening  the  other  end  to  the  top  wire  of  the  roof,  one  of  the  best  ways 
of  training,  the  thread  being  easily  withdrawn  after  cutting. 
Polygonum  complexum  also  succeeds  well  under  similar  treatment, 
and  is  an  excellent  creeper  if  it  is  desired  to  furnish  a  wall  quickly. 
(Smilax)  Myrsiphyllum  asparagoides  is  an  excellent  scandent  plant 
belonging  to  the  Lilyworts,  and  nearly  allied  to  the  genus  Asparagus, 
and  I  have  found  a  wall  at  the  back  of  the  stove  or  intermediate  house 
answer  very  well  for  this  species.  It  requires  more  heat  than  can  be 
given  in  a  vinery  during  the  winter.  The  trailing  branches  are 
admirably  adapted  for  dinner-table  decoration,  or  when  in  bloom  for 
the  embellishment  of  a  lady’s  hair.  It  should  be  trained  up  thread 
similar  to  the  preceding.  Ficus  repens  is  well  adapted  for  the  purpose 
■on  a  moist  wall,  while  Maidenhair  Ferns  have  also  a  very  pleasing 
-appearance  — George  Hag  on,  Fowley. 
FORCING  VEGETABLES. 
Seakale. 
Seakale  is  a  very  easily  forced  vegetable,  and  can  be  had  ready  for 
the  table  by  the  first  week  in  December.  I  prefer  the  crowns  to  have  a 
slight  frost  or  two  before  making  a  start,  though  at  times  this  does  not 
take  place  so  early  in  this  mild  climate  of  D;von.  Consequently  a  start 
must  be  made  to  introduce  the  earliest  the  first  week  in  November. 
As  a  rule  the  majoritv  of  its  growth  is  off  by  this  datp,  especially  if  a 
frost  has  occurred.  In  lifting  the  roots  care  must  be  exercised  that  the 
crowns  are  not  bruised,  and  all  the  tap  roots  should  be  broken  off  and 
preserved  to  choose  cuttings  from.  In  my  case  I  plant  about  1500  early 
in  March,  and  these  are  the  crowns  that  are  forced  the  following  autumn. 
The  whole  batch  is  lifted  about  the  middle  of  December  and  laid  in 
thickly  together  ou'doors,  and  the  crowns  just  covered  with  soil.  Should 
severe  frost  occur,  some  long  litter  is  placed  over  them  so  that  they  can 
be  readily  got  at  when  required.  I  find  the  earliest  take  rather  a  higher 
temperature  to  start  them  than  later  lots,  say  early  in  the  New  Year. 
A  Mushroom  house  which  keeps  about  55°  to  60°  is  a  very  suitable 
place.  The  crowns  can  be  placed  closely  together,  and  should  have 
sifted  leaf  soil  worked  lightly  around  the  roots  and  up  level  with  the 
top  of  the  crown  ;  a  can  of  water  should  be  kept  there,  and  the  crowns 
syringed  daily.  To  keep  up  a  succession  I  put  in  fifty  crowns  each  week, 
but  the  number,  of  course,  can  be  easily  altered  more  or  less  according  to 
the  requirements  of  the  establishment.  The  roots  can  also  be  forced  in 
large  pots  or  boxes  and  placed  under  stages,  or  any  odd  corner  in  a 
forcing  house.  These  must  be  covered  with  pots  or  boxes,  as  no  light 
must  reach  the  crowns  in  any  stage  of  their  growth,  or  blanching  will 
not  be  perfect.  Neither  must  they  be  subjected  to  too  much  heat  at 
this  date  (February),  50°  to  55°  is  quite  hign  enough. 
The  best  place  to  force  this  vegetable  (that  is,  those  who  adopt  the 
olan  I  do  and  lift  all  their  roots)  is  to  erect  a  shed-like  place  about 
12  feet  long,  8  feet  wide,  and  4  feet  6  inches  high,  with  twelve  posts 
5-inch  square,  four  on  each  side  and  four  in  the  centre  to  take  the 
sides  and  top,  rough  planks  2  to  3  inches,  which  should  be  nailed  to 
those  around  the  sides  about  1^  inch  apart.  The  top  should  be  of  oak, 
and  rather  stouter  than  the  slabs  used  for  the  sides,  so  as  to  be  able  to 
carry  the  weight  of  leaves  necessary  to  give  the  required  heat.  This 
little  building  should  have  a  Bmall  door  on  the  south  side  to  get  in  and 
out  ;  the  other  three  sides  should  have  from  2  to  3  feet  in  width  of  good 
Oak  and  Beech  leaves  if  possible  placed  around  it,  and  the  same  thick¬ 
ness  on  the  top.  The  material  should  be  well  trodden  as  the  work 
proceeds.  I  keep  adding  to  this  as  the  leaves  are  brought  in  should  the 
weather  be  cold  ;  but  if  mild  the  first  n„med  wiil  be  sufficient,  though 
the  grower  must  exercise  his  own  discretion  on  this  point,  and  see  the 
place  does  not  get  too  hot.  I  keep  a  thermometer  hanging  up  inside, 
and  if,  when  mild  outside,  it  does  not  register  above  60°  all  will  be  well. 
This  heat  from  leaves  is  not  so  drying  as  from  hot-water  pipes.  Some 
sifted  leaf  soil  should  have  been  got  in  readiness  and  placed  inside  to 
plant  the  roots  in.  I  also  keep  a  can  of  water  and  the  syringe  in  here 
to  damp  the  surroundings  when  at  all  dry. 
In  passing,  it  may  not  be  out  of  place  to  add  that  there  is  no  better 
place  to  bring  Rhubarb  on  than  here  in  this  little  hut,  if  I  may  so  term 
it.  Delicious  Kale,  and  Rhubarb  as  crisp  and  blanched  as  it  is  possible 
to  get  them,  can  be  forced  here.  These  details  apply  to  lifted  roots  onlv. 
1  now  come  to  forcing  crowns  as  they  stand  in  the  open  ground.  Of 
course,  these  are  given  a  much  wider  berth  than  those  grown  and  lifted  ; 
they  should  be  planted  in  groups  or  clumps  of  three  to  six,  1  foot  apart, 
with  3  feet  or  more  Bpace  between  each  clump,  to  allow  for  Seakale  pots 
and  heating  material,  which  should  be  composed  of  fresh  leaves  three 
parts,  the  rest  of  stable  litter ;  this  should  have  been  thrown  together 
and  mixed  before.  This  must  be  packed  around  the  pots  and  above  them 
to  the  height  of  30  to  36  inches.  It  will  take  six  to  eight  weeks  to  get 
it  ready  for  use  this  way,  and,  of  course,  can  be  had  in  by  Christmas  very 
well.  A  few  test  sticks  should  be  placed  in  the  heating  material  to 
ascertain  how  the  heat  is.  What  you  have  to  avoid  is  too  much  heat,  as 
the  roots  soon  burn.  Plants  should  be  so  treated  about  every  three 
weeks  or  a  month.  The  decayed  leaves  should  be  removed  and  the  soil 
lightly  forked  up  prior  to  forcing,  the  crowns  earthed  up  a  little  way, 
and  a  small  quantity  of  litter  placed  between  them,  as  I  do  not  consider 
it  as  well  if  the  ground  gets  frozen  very  much.  Excellent  heads,  and 
probably  a  trifle  larger  than  the  nine  or  ten-months-old  crowns  I  have 
forced  for  several  years  past,  can  be  brought  on  this  way,  and  for  several 
years  in  succession,  but  a  new  plantation  should  be  made  every  three 
years  or  so. 
Another  method  I  have  seen  adopted  with  fairly  good  results,  where 
I  was  once  foreman  in  Herefordshire — a  square  was  allotted  to  brick 
pita  about  18  feet  long  by  3  feet  6  inches  wide.  These  were  pigeon¬ 
holed  and  were  about  5  feet  deep,  and  every  alternate  qne  was  filled  with 
fermenting  material,  while  the  others  were  planted  with  three  rows  of 
crowns,  and  were  forced  three  years  and  then  replanted,  a  part  being  done 
each  year.  Over  these  crowns  Bpan-shaped  shutters  were  placed  and 
long  strawy  litter  placed  over  these,  and  made  secure  against  frost  and 
wind.  This  was  always  ready  by  Christmas.  Success  is  obtained  with 
each  method,  but  for  myself  I  prefer  raising  the  whole  crop  and  replant¬ 
ing  each  year.  The  cuttings  are  planted  1  foot  apart  in  the  row  by 
18  inches,  and  given  a  rich  plot.  A  late  supply  can  be  had  by  leaving  a 
few  rows,  and  banking  up  with  soil  before  the  crowns  start  to  growj  I 
have  seen  fine  heads  obtained  by  this  means. —  [Paper  read  ly  Mr.  J. 
Mayne,  Bicton,  at  a  Meeting  of  the  Devon  and  Exeter  Gardener's ’ 
Association .] 
(To  be  continued.) 
