February  18,  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
145 
-much  too  small  for  handling  with  the  fingers.  When  the  plants  have 
made  four  leaves  they  may  be  placed  in  3  or  4-inch  pots,  these  being 
•found  ample  for  the  first  season.  Daring  bright  weather  shade  carefully 
from  the  sun.  As  the  plants  bloom  select  those  that  are  desirable,  and 
after  flowering  gradually  withhold  water  from  them,  and  finally  place 
them  on  their  sides  under  the  stage  in  a  cool  greenhouse,  where  the 
tabers  may  pass  the  winter.  • 
In  the  eariy  months  of  the  year  any  desired  number  may  be  started 
at  intervals  of  three  weeks  to  insure  a  succession  of  bloom.  Pot  the 
tubers  in  small  pots,  and  place  them  in  a  house  where  the  temperature 
does  not  fall  below  50°  at  night.  Water  carefully  at  first,  increasing 
the  supply  as  the  plants  grow.  Although  Gloxinias  are  lovers  of 
moisture,  anything  approaching  stagnation  is  highly  prejudicial, 
therefore  always  drain  sufficiently.  They  delight  in  shade,  and  for 
compost  nothing  seems  to  suit  them  better  than  a  mixture  of  three  parts 
well  decayed  leaf  mould,  one  part  each  of  loam  and  sand,  with  the 
addition  of  a  light  sprinkling  of  soot  to  impart  colour  to  the  foliage. 
For  ordinary  establishments  5  or  6-inch  pots  will  be  found  large  enough 
for  flowering  the  plants  in  unless  they  be  required  for  exhibition,  when 
pots  of  larger  dimensions  may  be  brought  into  use. — Youngster. 
Chrysanthemums. 
In  preparing  Chrysanthemum  cuttings,  especially  for  exhibition, 
I  insert  two  cuttings  in  each  3-inch  pot  employed  in  providing  between 
'500  and  600  plants,  which  are  grown  for  large  blooms.  They  root 
quicker  by  the  side  of  pot  than  in  centre,  and  the  young  plants  do  not 
feel  the  slightest  check  from  dividing  and  potting  singly,  but  the  roots 
take  to  the  fresh  soil  at  once.  I  find  after  repeated  trials  that  they  do 
equally  as  well,  if  not  better,  than  those  rooted  singly.  Although  this 
mode  is  wrong,  according  to  most  of  our  leading  Chrysanthemum 
growers,  anyone  pressed  for  room  during  December  and  January  need 
not  be  afraid  giving  the  plan  a  trial.  We  have  won  many  prizes  at 
the  leading  shows  in  Ireland  from  plants  so  treated.  I  also  find  that 
•first-class  blooms  can  be  cat  off  plants  struck  in  heat  in  February 
and  March,  many  varieties  coming  in  at  the  right  time  for  the  November 
shows,  whereas  if  the  same  varieties  were  rooted  in  December  or 
January  would  be  too  early. 
As  many  persons  will  be  throwing  out  their  old  stools  of  Chrys¬ 
anthemums  now,  I  advise  them  to  save  a  plant  of  each  of  the  following 
Viviand  Morel,  C.  Davis,  F.  Davis,  Col.  W.  B.  Smith,  Mdile.  M.  Hoste, 
Souvenir  de  Petite  Amie,  Emily  Silsbury,  Mutual  Friend,  Phoebus,  and 
W.  H.  Lincoln  ;  and  insert  cuttings  in  April  and  May.  Pinch  the 
April-struck  cuttings  well  back  the  first  week  in  June,  and  take  the 
first  bud.  May  cuttings,  unless  they  are  off  the  stem  or  tops  of  tall 
shoots,  require  no  pinching,  and  generally  show  a  bud  the  first  week  of 
August.  Stem  cuttings  and  tops  must  be  pinched  when  well  rooted. 
Allow  only  one  flower  to  each  plant.  Many  of  these  blooms  will 
■equal  in  size  those  from  plants  grown  in  large  pots,  while  these  late- 
Taised  plants  will  be  only  from  12  inches  to  18  inches  high  if  grown 
•cool  and  have  abundance  of  room  during  the  summer.  Many  others 
give  fine  blooms,  only  they  grow  too  tall  ;  Duchess  of  Wellington, 
Col.  Chase,  and  Duke  of  York  doing  extra  well  but  for  their  height. 
I  saw  this  plan  recommended  several  years  ago,  and  have  since  grown 
an  increasing  number  of  these  plants.  They  are  the  admiration  of  all 
visitors,  and  most  useful  for  house  decoration. — W.  T.,  Ireland. 
# 
Strawberries  for  Forcing. 
If  it  is  intended  that  layers  are  to  be  taken  from  young  plants 
towards  the  end  of  July,  make  a  plantation  large  enough  to  throw 
sufficient  runners  for  next  year’s  stock.  Plant  1  foot  apart  in  rows 
1  foot  6  inches  asunder.  If  the  season  be  dry  afford  good  waterings 
until  the  plants  have  taken  to  the  soil.  Winter  past  and  growth 
commenced,  try  all  means  to  obtain  good  plants.  The  Dutch  hoe  is 
very  useful,  not  only  in  keeping  down  weeds,  but  stirring  the  surface 
soil  is  very  beneficial  to  growth.  It  is  good  practice  to  take  off  all 
flower  trusses  as  they  appear  on  these  small  plants,  thus  throwing  the 
vigour  of  the  plant  into  the  runners. 
When  sufficient  runners  are  produced  with  good  plantlets  attached, 
layering  is  commenced.  Use  3-inch  pots,  filled  with  a  root-enticing 
compost  ;  stop  the  runner  at  the  joint,  and  fix  the  plantlet  with  a  small 
pebble  or  peg  ;  pebbles  are  best,  as  they  retain  the  moisture  in  the  soil. 
Give  water  on  bright  days,  sprinkling  the  foliage  at  night,  and  do  not 
allow  the  plants  to  become  dry.  In  about  three  weeks  they  will  be 
well  rooted,  when  they  should  be  detached  and  taken  where  they  will 
be  handy  for  potting.  If  possible  stand  them  in  a  shady  place. 
For  fruiting  use  5  and  6-inch  pots,  according  to  the  variety.  The 
compost  should  consist  of  five  parts  loam,  one  of  spent  Mushroom  bed 
refuse,  a  6-inch  potful  of  a  good  fertiliser,  some  bonemeal,  and  a 
3-inch  one  of  soot  to  each  barrowload.  In  potting  see  that  all  the  plants 
are  moist.  Do  not  bury  the  crown,  pot  firmly,  leaving  1  inch  of  space 
on  the  top  of  each  pot.  Stand  in  a  shady  place  for  a  few  days,  afterwards 
take  them  to  their  summer  quarters.  Stand  all  the  pots  on  boards  or 
:some  hard  surface  as  a  preventive  against  worms.  Face  the  crowns  south, 
they  will  ripen  better.  Be  sparing  with  water  until  the  roots  are  working 
freely.  Keep  the  soil  free  from  weeds,  all  runners  picked  off,  also  Bide 
crowns  as  they  appear,  only  allowing  the  central  one,  better  fruits  are 
-obtained  from  it.  On  the  evenings  of  bright  days  sprinkling  the  leaves 
is  very  beneficial.  During  the  season  the  plants  derive  benefit  from  an 
occasional  application  of  liquid  manure  water. 
When  cold  weather  sets  in  take  the  plants  to  their  winter  quarters. 
<Cold  frames  are  best ;  where  these  cannot  be  spared,  space  must  be  found 
where  protection  from  heavy  rain,  snow,  and  frost  can  be  afforded.  Oa 
favourable  days  remove  all  protection,  endeavouring  to  keep  the  plants 
as  hard  as  possible.  On  no  account  allow  them  to  suffer  by  drought  at 
the  roots. — Semper.  , 
(lo  be  continued.) 
Grape  Vines. 
I  always  read  with  interest  anything  written  on  Grape  culture, 
therefore  the  articles  by  “  W.  T.”  and  “  H.  H.”  have  not  escaped  my 
notice.  “  W.  T.’’  tells  us  on  page  80  that  “  they  always  damp  down  with 
liquid  manure  water,  as  ammonia  from  it  helps  to  keep  Vines  free  from 
spider.”  I  have  placed  Vine  leaves  infested  with  red  spider  in  an 
atmosphere  so  strongly  charged  with  ammonia  a9  to  make  it  impossible 
to  breathe  in  it,  and  although  the  leaves  were  all  scorched  up  not  one  of 
the  spiders  was  killed.  “  H.  H.,”  page  123,  says,  “In  order  to  induce 
the  Vines  to  break  evenly  at  the  time  of  starting  they  should  be  bent  in 
a  semicircular  form.  By  doing  this  part  of  the  sap  is  directed  to  the 
back  buds  instead  of  rushing  to  the  top  of  the  Vine.”  A  few  years  ago 
this  was  our  practice  with  about  4000  Vines.  Seeing  how  badly  some 
canes  broke  I  found  on  examining  the  wood  cells  that  they  were 
ruptured  near  the  bend,  consequently  the  buds  could  not  break  freely. 
This  induced  me  to  try  tying  the  Vines  to  the  trellis  before  they  were 
started  and  letting  them  remain  there,  and  I  can  assure  “  H.  H.”  if  he 
will  try  this  he  will  find  no  difference  in  breaking  of  buds  between  the 
Vines  tied  up  and  those  bent  down. — A  Student. 
Tuberous  rooted  Begonias. 
There  are,  I  think,  but  few  plants  so  valuable  for  conservatory  or 
garden  decoration  as  the  tuberous  Begonia.  The  plants  are  generally 
raised  from  seed,  and  the  time  for  sowing  muse  be  determined  by  the 
time  at  which  the  plants  are  expected  to  bloom.  Seeds  sown  in  February 
will  generally  afford  plants  that  will  flower  about  June.  Use  well 
drained  seed  pans  filled  with  a  compost  of  loam,  leaf  mould,  and  sand  in 
equal  parts,  finishing  with  half  an  inch  of  the  same  finely  sifted  for  the 
top,  making  the  surface  smooth  and  even. 
The  seed  should  be  sown  thinly  and  covered  with  the  finest  soil, 
placing  the  pans  in  a  temperature  of  60°  to  65°.  Cover  with  glass,  over 
which  place  a  thin  layer  of  moss  or  some  thick  paper.  As  soon  a9  the 
seedlings  appear  they  must  be  gradually  exposed  to  the  light,  and 
eventually  placed  on  a  shelf  near  the  glass,  where  they  should  be 
shaded  from  the  sun  till  the  young  plants  become  hardy  and  able  to 
bear  the  full  light.  When  seedlings  are  large  enough  they  must  be 
transplanted  about  an  inch  asunder  in  pans,  and  when  well  established 
they  may  be  transferred  to  small  pots,  and  subsequently  into  larger 
ones  as  required. 
Use  well  drained  pots,  aDd  a  compost  as  follows  : — Sound  loam  two 
parts,  fibrous  peat  one  part,  leaf  mould  one  part,  well  decayed  cowdung 
half  a  part,  and  a  small  addition  of  silver  sand.  Do  not  allow  the 
plants  to  suffer  by  want  of  water  when  they  are  growing  freely.  As  the 
season  advances  gradually  reduce  the  water  supply,  and  as  the  stems 
begin  to  wither  allow  the  soil  to  become  quite  dry.  Clear  soot  water  is 
a  good  stimulant  during  the  flowering  period,  and  an  occasional  supply 
of  weak  liquid  manure  may  also  be  given.  Always  keep  the  plants  free 
from  insects. 
When  resting,  the  tubers  may  be  allowed  to  remain  in  the  pots,  which 
ought  to  be  laid  on  their  sides  to  prevent  the  tubers  getting  wet.  They 
will  also  keep  well  when  placed  in  boxes  filled  with  cocoa-nut  fibre. 
The  temperature  in  which  they  are  resting  ought  Dot  to  fall  below  40°. 
They  should  be  allowed  to  start  into  growth  before  repotting,  when  if  a 
larger  supply  is  in  demand  they  may  be  divided  and  the  cut  fleshy  parts 
dressed  with  powdered  charcoal.  Tney  will  also  root  freely  from  cuttings 
taken  and  inserted  in  small  pots  placed  in  a  gentle  bottom  heat. — 
J.  F.  D. 
Conservatory  Management. 
( Continued  from  page  123.) 
Having  completed  all  necessary  preparations  hybrid  Azaleas,  which 
will  now  (April)  be  coming  in  flower.  These,  together  with  Deutzia 
gracilis  (a  number  of  which  should  have  been  steadily  coming  on),  form 
a  charming  display.  Many  plants  of  Cytisus  and  Cinerarias  will  still  be 
serviceable.  Arum  Lilies,  Freesias,  Imantophyllums,  with  Acacias 
armata  and  Drummondi  will  all  be  in  bloom  about  this  time,  and  help  to 
complete  the  floral  collection.  Of  the  smaller  plants  for  edging  Sedum 
Sieboldi  variegatum,Isolepis  gracilis,  Funkiaundulata  argentea,F.undulata 
aurea,  grown  in  6-inch  pots  ;  Cyclamen,  Primulas  obconica  and  flori- 
bunda  are  all  very  useful.  Hyacinths  and  other  bulbs  which  have  been 
kept  in  cold  frames  will  still  be  available.  Perhaps  at  no  other  season 
will  the  house  appear  so  gay  as  now.  Admit  air  freely  when  weather 
permits,  and  a  light  shading  should  also  be  afforded  on  bright  days,  in 
order  to  keep  the  flowers  fresh  as  long  as  possible.  Large  bees  are 
generally  very  troublesome  at  this  time,  and  should  be  kept  down,  or 
they  will  do  damage  by  causing  the  Azalea  blooms  to  fall  prematurely. 
A  muslin  net  tied  to  the  end  of  a  long  stick  is  very  useful  for  catching 
tbe  bees.  Very  little  fire  heat  will  now  be  required  in  the  daytime,  but 
warmth  should  be  kept  in  the  pipes  on  account  of  frosty  Di?hts. 
In  May  the  Bame  collection  will  continue  to  beautify  the  house. 
Artificial  heat  may  now  be  dispensed  with,  and  shading  afforded. 
Ventilate  freely,  and  damp  the  floor  about  midday.  By  the  end  of  the 
month  the  Azaleas  and  Deutzias  will  be  ready  to  be  removed.  Pick  off 
the  old  flower  stems  from  the  former,  being  careful  not  to  injure  the 
young  growth  in  the  operation.  They  may  then  be  stood  in  a  greenhouse, 
keeping  it  rather  close  until  growth  is  complete.  Syringe  twice  a  day. 
A  light  top-dressing  with  Standen’s  manure  will  be  beneficial.  Deutzias 
may  be  similarly  treated  until  growth  is  matured,  when  they  may  be 
