146 
February  18,  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
plunged  in  an  open  place  where  it  will  be  convenient  to  cover  the  pots 
with  leaves  or  old  Mushroom  bed  refuse  when  the  frost  returns. 
When  the  plants  which  have  finished  blooming  have  been  disposed  of 
attention  should  again  be  paid  to  t^e  climbers.  Clean  the  house 
thoroughly,  when  it  will  be  ready  for  the  succession  of  Pelargoniums. 
These  plants  having  been  finally  potted  in  March,  or  April  at  latest,  in  a 
compost  of  rich  loam  with  a  little  charcoal  added,  should  now  be 
flowering,  with  Lilium  Harrisi,  Malmaison  Carnation.  Spiisea  japonica 
and  astilboides,  together  with  many  of  the  smaller  plants  left  from  the 
previous  collection.  Herbaceous  Calceolarias  raised  from  seed  sown  in 
June  will  also  be  in  bloom  now.  These  make  an  effective  group  arranged 
with  Adiantum  cuneatum. 
This  collection  will  monopolise  the  house  until  the  middle  of  July, 
when  they  will  have  completed  their  work.  The  Pelargoniums  should 
then  be  stood  in  an  open  frame  to  ripen  their  wood,  when  they  may  be 
cut  back,  leaving  one  or  two  eyes  on  each  shoot,  from  which  the  new 
growths  will  start.  Water  should  be  given  rather  scantily  until  growth 
commences.  When  the  young  shoots  are  about  an  inch  long  the  plants 
ought  to  be  shaken  out  and  placed  in  smaller  pots.  A  compost  of  good 
loam  with  a  little  sand  and  charcoal  added  will  suit  them  very  well. 
They  may  then  be  removed  to  a  cool  greenhouse,  and  care  taken  in 
watering  until  the  plants  are  well  established.  When  the  growth  is 
about  3  inches  long  take  out  the  points  to  insure  bushy  plants.  An 
occasional  top-dressing  with  Clay’s  fertiliser  will  greatly  assist  them 
until  they  are  finally  potted  as  previously  stated. 
Having  suitably  disposed  of  all  other  unnecessary  plants,  the  oppor¬ 
tunity  should  again  be  taken  to  do  all  requisite  cleaning  preparatory  to 
the  house  being  again  arranged  with  the  next  succession. — P.  W. 
(To  be  continued  .1 
[We  shall  be  much  obliged  if  all  our  young  friends  will,  as  the 
majority  do,  write  their  names  and  addresses  at  the  top  of  their  MS.,  not 
on  separate  slips  or  in  private  letters.  Marks  of  merit  are  accorded  for 
every  article,  and  duly  entered  in  the  register  to  the  names  at  the  head 
of  each  MS.  We  should  also  like  every  writer  to  do  what  all  the  best  of 
writers  do — namely,'  write  every  word  in  full  that  they  intend  to  use. 
Abbreviations  are  defects  in  literary  work.  We  have  other  notes  in  type, 
and  we  wish  it  to  be  understood  that  it  is  not  the  rule  to  publish  the 
best  first.] 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cherry  House. — The  temperature  being  maintained  at  40°  to  45° 
at  night,  and  about  50°  in  the  daytime  regularly,  the  trees  rapidly 
unfold  the  buds,  especially  when  the  weather,  as  it  has  been  recently,  is 
mild.  Before  the  flowers  expand  it  is  desirable  to  fumigate  the  house, 
as  aphides  are  very  partial  jo  the  tender  growths  of  Cherry  trees  and 
almost  certain  to  be  present ;  or  by  syringing  the  trees  with  an  approved 
insecticide  make  sure  the  trees  are  free  from  the  insects.  The  liquid, 
however,  must  be  clear  and  not  injurious  to  Cherry  blossom,  which  is 
easily  damaged  or  discoloured.  Rather  strong  quassia  water  (4ozs.  chips 
to  a  gallon  of  water,  steeped  overnight  and  boiled  a  quarter  of  an  hour) 
answers  well,  repeating  at  intervals  of  a  day  or  two.  Though  a  Cherry 
house,  especially  for  early  forcing,  may  only  be  found  here  and  there 
throughout  the  country,  no  structure  affords  more  acceptable  fruit  for 
dessert  in  the  late  spring  or  early  summer  months. 
But  few  varieties  should  be  grown  for  general  purposes,  three  excel¬ 
lent  being  Early  Rivers,  Governor  Wood,  and  Black  Tartarian.  A  lean- 
to  house  erected  against  a  wall  with  a  south  aspect  is  suitable,  and  it 
need  not  be  more  than  6  to  7  feet  6  inches  in  width.  The  front  need 
not  be  more  than  2  feet  6  inches  in  height,  so  that  the  roof  will  be  a 
long  one,  and  facing  the  sun  at  a  desirable  angle  for  admitting  light. 
Ventilation  should  be  provided  at  the  top  and  bottom,  and  the  roof 
lights  must  be  moveable.  A  trellis  9  to  12  inches  from  the  glass  will  be 
needed  to  secure  the  trees  in  proper  position.  Fan-trained  trees  with 
stems  just  reaching  to  the  trellis  are  most  suitable.  Two  rows  of  4-inch 
hot-water  pipes  (a  flow  and  return)  will  afford  sufficient  heat.  The 
border  must  be  inside,  though  the  roots  may  also  have  access  to  the  out¬ 
side,  and  thoroughly  drained  to  carry  off  superfluous  water.  Good  loam, 
preferably  calcareous  and  rather  strong,  hut  with  a  free  admixture 
naturally  or  artificially  of  gritty  matter,  is  most  suitable.  Trees  from 
the  open  wall  between  three  and  four  years  trained,  if  carefully  removed 
to  the  house,  come  into  bearing  at  once  ;  but  to  insure  success  they 
must  have  been  frequently  lifted.  Supply  water  to  settle  the  soil  about 
the  roots,  and  ventilate  the  house  freely,  syringing  the  trees  in  the  morn¬ 
ing  and  again  early  in  the  afternoon,  employing  fire  heat  only  to  exclude 
frost ;  but  when  the  trees  are  fairly  in  growth  let  the  day  temperature 
from  fire  heat  be  50°  to  55°,  rising  to  60°  to  6 5°  from  sun,  increasing  the 
ventilation  at  55°  and  close  at  that  temperature,  leaving,  however,  a 
little  ventilation  on  day  and  night ;  40°  to  45°  at  night  from  artificial 
heat  will  be  sufficient. 
Cucumbers. — The  plants  require  a  steady  temperature  and  genial 
atmosphere,  the  bottom  heat  80°,  not  allowing  it  to  fall  below  75°  or 
exceed  90° ;  top  heat  65°  to  70°  at  night,  5°  less  in  severe  weather  ;  70° 
to  75°  by  day,  rising  to  85°  or  90°  with  sun,  closing  early  in  the  after¬ 
noon,  so  as  to  run  up  or  maintain  a  temperature  of  90°,  95°,  or  100°. 
Examine  the  plants  in  bearing  once  a  wtek  for  the  removal  of  bad  leaves 
and  exhausted  growths,  not  allowing  them  to  remain,  but  thinning  the 
shoots — the  young  to  prevent  crowding  and  the  old  to  allow  of  training- 
in  young  growths.  Stop  one  or  two  joints  beyond  the  show  for  fruit, 
removing  old  and  deformed  fruits,  as  they  do  nothing  but  impoverish 
the  plant.  In  securing  the  youDg  shoots  to  the  trellis  do  not  tie  them 
too  tightly,  but  allow  room  for  development.  Plants  that  have  been  in 
bearing  some  time  should  have  the  surface  soil  removed,  and  previously 
warmed  fresh  soil  added.  Turfy  loam,  with  a  fourth  of  well-decayed 
manure,  will  answer  ;  but  to  get  colour  into  the  fruit,  without  which 
they  are  faulty  for  marketing,  sprinkling  a  good  handful  of  soot  on 
each  square  yard.  Native  guano  is  also  an  excellent  dressing  for 
promoting  high  colour  in  fruits.  Damp  the  pathways  on  bright  morn¬ 
ings  and  early  in  the  afternoon,  keeping  the  evaporation  troughs  charged 
with  liquid  manure — neat  stable  draining  diluted  with  five  times  the 
bulk  of  water,  or  Peruvian  guano  ammoniated,  1  lb.  to  20  gallons  of 
water. 
Cucumbers  in  frames  must  be  well  protected  at  night  with  mats  or 
other  covering,  attending  to  the  linings,  and  being  careful  to  avoid  rank 
steam,  having  the  materials  well  sweetened,  a  reserve  heap  of  manure  and 
leaves,  properly  turned,  being  kept  for  use  as  required. 
Tigs.  —Earliest  Trees  in  Pots. — The  trees  having  a  number  of  fully 
developed  leaves  and  the  roots  active  they  will  require  a  proper  supply 
of  water  and  nourishment.  Turves  may  be  placed  around  the  rims  of 
the  pots  so  as  to  form  a  dish,  and  this  sprinkled  with  rich  compost  as  the 
roots  occupy  it  is  better  than  giving  a  heavy  top-dressing  all  at  once. 
Liquid  manure  in  a  weak  tepid  state  must  be  given  as  required,  and 
always  in  sufficient  quantity  to  pass  through  the  soil  to  the  drainage. 
The  atmosphere  must  be  kept  moist,  syringing  the  plants  twice  a  day 
when  the  weather  is  fine,  and  damping  the  walls  and  paths  when  dull, 
for  having  the  foliage  constantly  wet  is  not  favourable  to  the  tree’s 
health,  Keep  the  temperature  steady  at  60°  at  night,  falling  5°  on  cold 
nights,  60°  to  65°  by  day  when  cold  and  dull,  and  70°  to  75°  with  gleams 
of  sun.  Admit  a  little  air  at  70°,  keeping  it  with  sun  heat  at  75°  to  80° 
through  the  day,  closing  sufficiently  early  to  run  up  to  85°  or  90°. 
Attend  to  stopping  and  tying  as  growth  advances,  and  guard  against 
overcrowding  by  rubbing  off  shoots  not  required.  The  9hoots  should  be 
pinched  at  the  fifth  leaf,  and  as  the  branches  may  not  always  be  thinned 
without  sacrificing  fruit  advanced  in  swelling,  tie  such  out,  putting  in 
the  needful  stakes.  The  shoots  are  easdy  cut  out,  if  not  required,  when, 
the  fruit  is  gathered,  and  it  is  essential  that  Figs  have  full  exposure  to 
light  and  a  free  circulation  of  air  to  insure  flavour  and  colour,  therelore 
keep  the  growths  thin  and  evenly  placed. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Trees. — The  trees  started  with  the  new 
year  are  growing  freely,  and  must  be  attended  to  for  disbudding  and 
stopping.  Where  there  is  trellis  room  the  leading  shoots  may  be 
allowed  to  extend  to  the  extremity  without  stopping,  not  laying  in  more 
than  there  is  room  for  insuring  full  exposure  to  light,  reserving  a  few 
growths  where  there  is  space,  pinching  them  at  the  fifth  leaf.  These 
will  give  second  crop  Figs,  and  may  be  useful  for  displacing  shoots  later 
that  are  cut  away,  but  it  is  not  good  practice  to  encourage  spur-growths. 
Mulch  the  border  with  lumpy  material  to  attract  the  roots  to  the  surface, 
and  supply  water  freely,  with  liquid  manure  in  the  case  of  trees  requir¬ 
ing  Bupport  through  limited  rating  area.  A  temperature  of  55°  to  60c 
at  night.  60°  to  65°  by  day  artificially,  70°  to  75°  with  a  little  sun,  rising 
5°  to  10°  from  bright  sunshine,  will  be  suitable. 
Late  Houses. — The  pruning  and  dressing  of  the  trees  should  be  com¬ 
pleted  without  delay,  using  a  brush  and  soapy  water  to  cleanse  them  of 
scale,  adding  a  wineglassful  of  petroleum  to  each  gallon  ;  but  to  secure 
an  even  mixing  dissolve  £  pound  softsoap  in  a  quart  of  water  by  boil¬ 
ing,  and  when  boiling  add  the  petroleum,  removing  from  the  fire  for 
safety,  and  stirring  briskly.  Dilute  to  1  gallon  with  hot  water  for  use. 
Keep  the  house  as  cool  as  possible,  merely  excluding  frosts. 
Strawberries  In  Pots.— After  being  fairly  set  remove  all  badly 
set  and  deformed  fruits,  leaving  from  four  to  half  a  dozen  of  the 
more  promising  to  each  piaut,  and  aid  their  swelling  by  liquid  manure. 
The  temperature  should  be  60°  to  65°,  advancing  to  70°  or  75°  by  day 
with  moderate  ventilation.  Avoid  drying  currents  of  air,  as  they 
injuriously  affect  the  swelling  of  the  fruit.  Examine  the  plants  twice 
each  day,  giving  water  to  those  only  needing  it,  and  in  sufficient 
quantity  to  show  at  the  drainage.  See  that  succession  plants  are  kept 
free  from  aphides,  fumigating  if  necessary  before  the  flowers  open. 
British  Queen  and  other  sorts  for  a  late  supply  may  now  be  started, 
introducing,  however,  proportionate  quantities  of  Sir  Joseph  Paxton  and 
similar  varieties  to  maintain  the  succession. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Early  Peas. — About  the  middle  of  February  is  a  good  time  to 
sow  the  early  round-seeded  Peas,  such  as  William  I.,  Exonian,  and 
Eclipse  in  the  open,  but  heavy  soils  will  not  as  yet  have  recovered  from 
the  saturation  they  have  had  lately,  and  to  puddle  in  any  kind  of  seed 
is  only  to  invite  failure.  Better  wait  a  fortnight  longer  than  do  that. 
In  any  case  keep  the  more  tender,  wrinkled  seed  in  the  bags  a  while 
longer,  as  these  are  most  liable  to  decay  in  the  ground  if  sown  before  it 
is  fit  for  their  reception.  From  a  pint  to  a  quart  of  seed  sown  in 
“  Geranium  ”  boxeB  under  glass  in  gentle  heat  would  give  enough  plants 
for  forming  a  row  or  rows  equal  to  a  length  of  60  feet,  and  if  put  out 
before  the  roots  become  matted  together  little  or  no  check  would  be 
caused  to  their  progress,  and  excellent  early  crops  obtained.  Plant  on 
warm  borders  in  due  course,  and  take  the  first  favourable  opportunity,. 
