February  19,  1897* 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
•147 
this  being  when  the  ground  works  freely  and  does  not  bind  badly  when 
trampled  on,  of  sowing  seeds  in  the  open  by  way  of  succession. 
Spinach. — It  is  the  usual  practice  to  sow  Spinach  at  the  same  time 
as  Peas,  arranging  the  rows  midway  between  the  latter.  This  plan 
answers  well,  the  Spinach  attaining  a  serviceable  size  before  the  Peas 
unduly  shade  it.  Open  shallow  drills,  and  sow  somewhat  thinly. 
The  autumn  sown  Spinach  has  withstood  the  frosts  well,  and  with  a 
return  of  sunshine  and  dry  warm  weather  growth  should  be  strong. 
On  a  dry  day  hand-weed  between  the  plants  where  needed,  and  use  the 
Dutch  hoe  between  the  rows,  raking  off  the  weeds,  or  otherwise  they  will 
root  afresh. 
Broad  Beans. — Much  that  has  been  advanced  concerning  Peas  also 
applies  to  Broad  Beans,  the  seed  of  choicer  varieties  of  these  being  also 
liable  to  perish  in  a  cold  wet  soil.  If  wanted  extra  early  sow  the  Early 
Longpod  in  small  pots,  and  plant  out  before  the  plants  become  stunted 
in  growth.  This  variety  and  the  popular  Beck’s  Dwarf  Green  Gem  may 
be  sown  on  warm  borders  or  in  a  well-prepared  sunny  open  site  directly 
the  ground  can  be  got  into  a  suitable  condition.  Open  single  drills 
2  feet  apart  and  2  inches  deep,  dropping  in  the  seeds  somewhat  freely 
to  allow  for  failures. 
Cabbage. — Few  or  no  plants  have  been  injured  by  frost,  slugs 
proving  the  worst  enemy  to  them.  It  will  be  found  that  most  of  the 
plants  have  been  partially  upheaved  by  the  action  of  frost,  and  they 
will  not  make  good  progress,  many  probably  bolting  unless  refixed.  A 
frequent  use  of  the  Dutch  hoe  is  one  of  the  best  preventives  of  slug 
increase,  and  otherwise  acts  beneficially.  Fill  up  gaps  in  the  rows  of 
Cabbage  plants  with  others  from  the  nursery  or  seed  beds,  moving  those 
that  have  been  previously  pricked  out  with  a  trowel,  a  ball  of  soil  about 
the  roots  being  essential  in  this  case. 
Garlic  and  Shallots. — If  these  are  kept  out  of  the  ground  till  they 
have  sprouted  badly  a  partial  failure  is  likely  to  occur.  Directly  the 
soil,  previously  manured  and  dug,  is  dry  enough  to  walk  upon  without 
binding  seriously,  make  it  fine  to  a  depth  of  at  least  4  inches  without 
bringing  up  lumps  of  wet  soil  from  below,  at  the  same  time  stirring  in 
soot  by  way  of  a  manurial  dressing.  The  rows  across  the  border  to  be 
1  foot  apart,  and  the  bulbs  6  inches  apart  in  the  rows.  Press  them  in, 
only  the  neck  showing  above  the  soil. 
Parsley. — The  principal  breadth  of  Parsley  may  well  be  associated 
with  Garlic  and  Shallots.  Drills  may  be  drawn  midway  between  the 
rows  of  the  two  latter  and  Parsley  seed  sown,  or  better  still,  the 
requisite  number  of  plants  raised  thinly  in  boxes  or  beds  of  soil  in 
heat,  and  these,  after  being  duly  hardened  off,  dibbled  out  singly, 
from  9  inches  to  12  inches  apart.  Parsley  can  be  had  much  the 
quickest  in  this  way,  and  grand  plants  form  before  the  end  of  the  seasoil. 
The  Garlic  and  Shallots  will  be  ready  for  clearing  off  long  before  the 
whole  of  the  ground  is  required  by  the  Parsley. 
Parsnips. — February  has  long  been  the  popular  month  for  sowing 
Parsnip  seed.  If  extra  large  roots  are  desired  early  sowing  is  advisable, 
but  not  if  the  necessarily  deeply  dug  ground  is  in  a  sodden  state.  Better 
wait  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  later,  sowing  the  seed  when  the  ground 
is  in  a  fit  condition  to  receive  it.  If  the  ground  was  heavily  manured 
for  a  preceding  surface  rooting  crop  none  ought  to  have  been  dug  in  for 
Tarsnips,  and  the  least  that  can  be  done  is  to  bury  solid  manure  not  less 
than  the  full  depth  of  the  spade,  an  early  contact  of  the  tap  roots  with 
animal  manure  causing  them  to  fork.  For  cooking  purposes  small  roots 
are  much  to  be  preferred,  and  these  will  be  more  surely  obtained  by 
sowing  a  month  or  six  weeks  later. 
Turnips. — Early  Turnips  are  always  of  good  service.  If  not  as  a 
dish  they  are  almost  indispensable  for  flavouring  soup.  The  Early 
Milan  is  the  quickest  to  “  bulb,”  and  an  east  border  is  the  best  position 
for  sowing.  Let  this  be  freely  manured,  and  got  into  a  fine  firm  con¬ 
dition.  Sow  the  seed  in  shallow  drills  12  inches  apart.  A  close  look 
out  to  be  kept  for  the  seedlings,  and  directly  they  appear  dust  over 
heavily  while  the  dew  is  on  them  with  soot  and  lime  by  way  of 
preventive  of  bird,  slug,  and  flea  attacks,  repeating  this  as  often  as 
need  be. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Crotons. — Well-furnished  plants  that  are  to  be  grown  to  a  larger 
size  may  be  transferred  into  pots  2  inches  larger  than  those  they  now 
occupy.  In  potting  only  remove  the  crocks  from  the  base  and  loose 
soil  from  the  surface.  Well  furnished  heads  of  the  larger  growing 
varieties  may  have  pots  8  inches  larger  than  those  they  are  growing  in. 
Plants  that  have  good  heads  but  have  become  bare  at  the  base  may  be 
partially  cut  through  on  each  side,  mossed,  and  supplied  with  a  stake. 
These  if  kept  moist  and  with  those  that  are  repotted  in  a  temperature  of 
65°  at  night  will  soon  be  well  rooted.  Those  mossed  in  early  autumn 
are  well  rooted  and  ready  for  taking  off.  If  these  are  placed  into  5-inch 
pots  and  plunged  in  bottom  heat  for  a  fortnight  they  will  not  lose  a 
single  leaf,  and  in  a  short  time  will  be  ready  for  larger  pots.  If  these 
plants  are  increased  by  means  of  cuttings  they  may  at  this  season  of  the 
year  be  cut  off  where  the  wood  is  soft,  or  they  will  be  a  long  time  rooting 
and  often  lose  their  lower  foliage.  These  plants  do  well  in  fibry  loam 
three  parts,  the  other  portion  being  composed  of  decayed  manure,  leaf 
mould,  and  sand.  A  little  artificial  manure  may  with  advantage  be 
mixed  with  the  soil. 
Dracaenas. — II  is  impossible  to  grow  these  into  good  plants  if  they 
are  confined  in  small  pots  until  they  become  stunted  and  woody.  If 
they  are  to  be  developed  into  healthy  well-furnished  specimens  they 
may  be  potted  directly  the  soil  is  moderately  well  filled  with  roots. 
Those  placed  during  September  into  5  and  6-inch  pots  are  ready  for 
others  2  inches  larger.  The  pots  at  first  appear  too  large  for  the  plants, 
but  they  will  commence  rapid  growth,  and  develop  into  large  well 
furnished  plants  in  this  size.  Some  of  the  narrow  leaf  varieties  do  not 
need  such  large  pots,  and  are  generally  more  useful  in  5  and  6-inch  size. 
Plants  that  have  become  bare  may  have  the  stems  notched  and  mossed  ; 
these  soon  emit  roots,  and  are  in  a  few  months  suitable  again  for  table 
decoration.  [Plants  that  have  been  kept  rather  dry  may  have  the  root 
portion  of  the  stem  cut  up  for  stock.  Every  portion  will  make  a  plant 
if  inserted  in  sandy  soil  and  started  in  brisk  beat.  These  plants,  if  well 
looked  after,  are  amongst  the  easiest  of  foliage  plants  to  grow,  and 
amongst  the  most  useful  for  decorative  purposes.  The  heads  of  D.  gracilis 
and  D.  Goldiana  root  freely  if  cut  off  where  the  wood  is  moderately  soft, 
and  the  pots  plunged  in  brisk  heat. 
Pandanus  Veitchi. — Repot  small  plants  in  a  mixture  of  loam, 
sand,  and  one-seventh  of  manure.  These  are  useful  in  various  sizes  up 
to  10-inch  size.  When  plants  are  well  developed  all  the  suckers  are 
removed  for  stock,  and  the  specimens  are  employed  for  decoration  until 
they  are  of  no  farther  use.  When  once  a  stock  is  obtained  there  is  no 
difficulty  in  growing  young  plants  as  rapidly  as  others  are  destroyed. 
For  rooms,  or  even  the  dinner  table,  these  plants  look  well  rising  from 
a  base  of  Selaginellas  and  small  Ferns.  When  giving  the  final  potting 
a  few  may  be  placed  on  the  surface.  By  the  time  the  plants  are  ready  for 
use  the  base  will  be  well  furnished. 
Ixoras. — Large  plants,  or  those  of  moderate  size,  may  be  cut  into 
shape  and  thoroughly  cleaned.  These  may  then  be  plunged  in  bottom 
heat  and  started  into  growth.  By  cutting  the  plants  back  the  whole 
of  the  shoots  start  into  growth  about  the  same  time,  and  a  regular  head 
of  bloom  is  obtained.  When  the  plants  have  started  into  growth  any 
potting  that  is  needed  should  be  done.  The  old  ball  must  not  be 
disturbed,  and  the  plants  may  be  potted  in  peat  and  sand  with  a 
little  charcoal  added.  Considerable  care  is  needed  in  watering  and 
syringing.  Any  young  shoots  of  moderately  soft  wood  can  be  inserted 
singly  in  small  pots  and  rooted  in  brisk  heat  in  the  propagating  frame. 
These  can  be  allowed  to  grow  and  flower  in  4-inch  pots.  If  needed 
for  bushes  the  point  must  be  removed  when  the  cuttings  are  well  rooted. 
Those  inserted  in  autumn  and  have  been  wintered  in  2.^-inch  pots 
may  be  topped  and  placed  in  5-inch  pots.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  top 
some  and  allow  the  others  to  grow  on  without,  so  that  they  will  form  a 
succession. 
Rondeletlaa. — These  are  difficult  to  grow  into  fine  specimens,  yet 
with  care  and  good  treatment  this  can  be  accomplished.  They  yield 
flowers  freely,  which  are  very  serviceable  for  cutting,  and  should  be 
grown  much  more  largely  than  they  are.  The  plants  are  slow  in  a 
young  state,  and  much  headway  cannot  be  made  in  a  solitary  season. 
Cuttings  of  soft  wood  root  freely  in  sandy  soil  under  bell-glasses  in 
brisk  heat.  This  plant  may  be  grown  into  bushes  or  small  standards  ; 
for  the  latter  the  young  plants,  aiter  they  are  rooted,  must  be  supplied 
with  a  stake  and  allowed  to  extend  until  the  necessary  length  of  stem 
has  been  produced,  when  the  point  should  be  removed  to  induce  it  to 
branch.  For  bushes  the  young  plants  may  be  topped  when  they  have 
made  a  few  inches  of  growth.  Pinching  is  necessary  until  the  plants 
have  formed  good  bushes,  when  the  shoots  may  be  allowed  to  extend 
and  ripen  thoroughly,  when  every  one  will  produce  a  truss  of 
bright  scarlet  flowers.  To  grow  these  plants  well  they  may  be  grown 
with  Ixoras,  and  if  given  bottom  heat  they  extend  much  more  rapidly 
during  the  early  stages  of  their  growth.  Rondeletias,  of  which  R.  speciosa 
major  is  the  best,  are  not  strong-rooting  plants,  and  do  well  if  potted 
the  same  as  Ixoras,  and  rn  similar  compost.  We  have  been  successful 
with  them  when  one-third  of  sandy  loam  has  been  incorporated  with 
the  peat.  These  plants  are  much  subject  to  thrips,  and  need  careful 
watering.  When  bushes  or  standards  have  been  formed  they  can  be 
kept  shapely  by  a  jndicious  system  of  cutting  back  the  shoots  after 
flowering. 
Franclsceas. — Introduce  into  brisk  heat  a  few  of  these  plants  in 
succession  as  they  are  required  in  bloom.  When  they  have  flowered 
cut  back  the  shoots  and  start  them  into  growth,  repotting  those  that 
need  more  root  room.  They  succeed  in  a  compost  of  peat,  loam,  and 
sand,  and  when  the  plants  are  growing  freely  an  intermediate  temperature 
is  suitable. 
iiuasM 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
.  i . , .  i .  i .  i .  i .  i .  i .  i .  i .  i .  t .  t .  i  - 1  - 1  - 1  - 1  - 1  - 1  - 1  -.!  -  rrnz 
M 
APIARIAN  NOTES. 
Will  “ An  English  Bee-keeper"  kindly  explain  the  following 
which  I  have  taken  from  the  last  issue  of  Journal  of  Horticulture  ) 
“  All  sections  of  comb  honey  should  be  properly  sealed  over,  and  if 
glazed  it  will  prevent  them  being  damaged  when  handled.”  When 
sections  are  properly  sealed  is  there  a  composition  for  glazing  that 
will  prevent  the  honey  from  leaking  ?  I  should  be  extremely 
obliged  for  any  information  on  the  subject.  I  have  only  just 
commenced  with  bees,  and  find  there  is  much  to  learn. — B.  C.  N. 
Glazing  Sections. 
When  sections  of  comb  honey  are  glazed  it  is  a  great  protection 
from  damage  whilst  being  handled.  It  will  at  once  be  seen  that 
sections  treated  in  this  manner  cannot  possibly  come  to  any  harm 
unless  the  glass  is  broken,  and  this  will  only  happen  if  roughly  used. 
There  is  no  composition  that  will  prevent  the  honey  leaking  if 
it  is  not  well  sealed  over,  from  the  fact  that  the  comb  is  not 
