February  25,  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
167 
Gloriosa  superba. 
This  is  a  stove  climber,  than  which  I  think  nothing  looks  more 
handsome  on  a  roof  when  the  plants  are  in  bloom.  The  colour  of  G. 
superba  is  a  deep  rich  orange  and  red,  the  flowers  hanging  from  10  to 
12  inches  from  the  stem  of  the  plants.  The  cultivation  is  very  easy, 
and  the  following  soil  I  have  found  to  do  exceedingly  well — namely,  good 
fibrous  peat,  light  loam,  good  leaf  mould,  and  spent  manure  from  old 
Mushroom  beds  in  equal  proportions,  with  the  addition  of  some  small 
charcoal  and  lime  rubbish. 
After  the  tubers  are  potted,  the  soil  being  in  a  proper  working  order, 
mo  water  will  be  required  before  they  have  started  into  growth,  after 
which  a  good  moist  heat  is  necessary.  The  syringe  must  be  re¬ 
quisitioned,  or  the  leaves  may  get  smothered  in  thrips  and  red  spider, 
which  will  quickly  spoil  the  beauty  of  the  specimens. 
When  the  season  of  flowering  is  past  they  should  be  gradually  dried 
and  placed  on  the  shelf  in  a  colder  house  until  they  are  required  for 
starting  for  the  next  season.  This  Gloriosa  can  also  be  grown  from  seed, 
the  seed  being  placed  singly  in  small  pots,  which  must  be  plunged  in  a 
close  frame.  I  have  also  seen  the  seed  vegetate  on  the  ashes  in  which 
the  plants  were  stood  on  in  the  stove,  and  some  of  these  plants  were  also 
potted,  and  made  good  tubers  for  the  following  season. — W.  L. 
Primula  obconica. 
I  think  this  valuable  greenhouse  plant  is  often  looked  down  upon 
as  being  unworthy  of  cultivation,  but  in  my  opinion  a  freer  and  a  more 
easily  cultivated  plant  does  not  exist.  The  old-fashioned  system  of 
procedure  is  to  divide  the  old  plants  in  order  to  obtain  a  fresh  stock, 
the  results  of  which  seldom  give  satisfactory  results.  A  much  better  way 
is  to  sow  seeds  about  the  middle  of  March  in  a  light  compost  ;  prick  the 
seedlings,  as  soon  as  they  are  large  enough  to  handle,  into  thumb 
pots  or  shallow  pans,  eventually  transferring  to  other  pots  as  the  plants 
require  it.  A  good  compost  to  grow  them  in  is  formed  of  two  parts 
fibrous  loam,  one  part  of  leaf  soil,  and  half  a  part  of  sharp  sand,  with  a 
good  dash  of  wood  ashes. 
After  the  pots  are  well  filled  with  roots  liquid  manure,  made  of  the 
excreta  of  fowls,  and  soot  will  greatly  benefit  the  plants  if  given 
occasionally  in  weak  doses  through  the  growing  season.  Through  the 
summer  all  buds  that  appear  must  be  picked  off  until  the  end  of  October, 
when  the  plants  may  be  allowed  to  flower,  which  they  will  do  without 
cessation  right  through  the  winter.  The  flowers  stand  remarkably  well, 
both  for  house  and  table  decorations.  Facilities  do  not  always  exist  for 
growing  forced  flowers  in  large  quantities,  and  in  such  cases  one  cannot 
do  better  than  raise  a  number  of  Primula  obconica  from  seeds,  so  as  to 
have  a  good  supply  of  its  charming  lilac-white  blooms  through  the 
winter. — Anxious,  G.  H. 
Cyclamens. 
These  are  among  the  most  useful  of  all  our  autumn,  winter,  and 
spring-flowering  greenhouse  plants.  With  good  treatment  plants  may 
be  had  in  flower  from  September  till  March,  which  makes  them  worthy 
of  more  extended  cultivation,  especially  where  there  is  a  demand  for  cut 
flowers  in  the  winter. 
The  best  time  to  sow  the  seed  is  during  the  month  of  August,  in  well- 
drained  pots,  in  a  compost  of  fine  loam,  leaf  mould,  and  sand  in  equal 
parts.  Cover  the  seed  pots  with  a  square  of  glass  to  preserve  moisture 
and  protect  the  seeds,  and  place  them  in  a  temperature  of  60°  to  65°. 
'When  the  seedlings  appear  remove  the  glass,  and  place  them  on  a  shelf 
to  prevent  their  becoming  drawn.  When  large  enough  to  handle  they 
should  be  pricked  about  an  inch  apart  in  pans,  using  the  same  compost 
as  advised  for  sowing,  but  not  quite  so  fine,  and  kept  in  a  similar 
'temperature  till  spring. 
About  the  month  of  March  they  should  be  placed  in  3-inch  pots, 
Rising  a  compost  of  two  parts  loam,  one  part  leaf  mould,  and  one  part  old 
Mushroom  bed  refuse,  with  sufficient  sand  to  keep  it  open,  aud  maintain 
a  temperature  of  55°.  When  these  pots  become  full  of  roots  shift  in 
"3-inch  pots,  in  which  they  will  flower  admirably,  this  time  adding  a 
little  fertiliser  to  the  soil.  During  the  summer  months  they  do  best 
stood  on  ashes  in  a  cold  frame,  keeping  them  well  shaded  from  the  sun, 
syringing  lightly  every  afternoon  of  bright  days. 
Never  allow  the  plants  to  get  dry  during  their  growing  season.  I 
have  seen  the  foliage  turn  vellow  and  the  crowns  go  blind  through  not 
having  sufficient  water.  When  the  pots  become  full  of  roots  weak 
liquid  manure  once  a  week,  or  a  light  sprinkling  of  artificial  manure  on 
the  surface  once  a  fortnight,  is  essential.  Give  all  the  air  possible  to 
promote  sturdy  growth,  and  keep  the  plants  free  from  green  fly  by 
frequent  fumigations. 
Cyclamens  may  be  grown  a  second  year  by  dryingfmoderately  and 
resting  the  corms  for  a  time  after  they  have  finished  flowering,  after¬ 
wards  reducing  the  soil  and  repotting.  They  should  then  receive  similar 
treatment  to  that  previously  advised  for  young  plants. — An  Englishman 
in  Scotland. 
Notes  from  a  Coffee  Estate. 
The  following  extracts,  which  I  hope  may  interest  many  and  supply 
wished-for  information  to  others,  are  from  the  letter  of  a  late  bothy 
mate,  now  on  a  Coffee  estate  in  British  Central  Africa. 
“  The  estate  consists  of  over  2000  acres  lying  at  an  altitude  of 
3500  feet  above  sea  level,  has  two  streams  on  it,  and  is  for  the  most  part 
covered  with  trees  from  20  to  50  feet  high.  Bamboos  and  Palms  abound, 
in  the  streams.  The  flora  is  very  fine.  I  have  discovered  a  few  Orchids, 
Ferns  in  abundance,  Gladiolus,  Amaryllis,  many  creepers,  and  a  host  of 
other  gorgeous  flowers.  Any  European  fruits  introduced  here  seem  to 
do  well.  We  have  wild  Figs,  Bananas,  Pine  Apple,  Papaw,  Guava, 
Lime,  and  others ;  guinea  fowl,  buck,  hartebeaste,  sable,  pigs,  and  zebra, 
besides  the  larger  and  fiercer  beasts  ;  a  host  of  snakes.  .  .  . 
“  With  a  few  ‘  boys  ’  (we  have  had  500  at  a  time')  we  cleared  half  an 
acre  for  nursery  and  put  in  Coffee  seed  to  plant  150  acres — 1200  plants 
per  acre.  The  seeds  take  nine  weeks  to  germinate,  growing  slowly  at 
first,  then  coming  away  with  a  rush. 
“The  hoases  are  of  the  mud  and  wattle  style,  built  by  inserting, 
stout  po'es  2  feet  apart  for  walls,  to  which  bamboo  are  lashed  with  fibre, 
and  mud  plastered  inside  and  out.  The  outside  mud  is  taken  from  the 
ant  hills,  there  being  many  about,  and  as  large  as  an  ordinary 
house.  .  .  . 
“  We  mark  out  plantations  of  from  2  to  18  acres,  cutting  down  trees 
and  carrying  them  off  to  the  sides,  afterwards  lining  off  in  beds  6  feet 
by  6  feet,  using  pegs  of  bamboo.  Pits  2  feet  deep  and  18  inches  wide 
are  made  for  each  seedling.  We  plant  in  the  rainy  season — November 
till  March,  hence  hoeing  and  weeding,  gathering  the  crops,  and  storing 
is  all  that  is  required.  There  is  no  successful  system  of  manuring. 
Some  planters  use  shade  plants,  one  to  every  four  or  six  others,  thus 
minimising  disease  and  insuring  more  regular  crops. 
“  The  workers  get  from  4  to  10  yards  of  calico  (3d.  per  yard)  wages, 
and  4  yards  ‘  food  ’  cloth  per  month  1  They  engage  for  terms  of  from 
two  to  six  months.  At  sunrise  the  horn  or  lapenga  is  blown  to  start 
the  boys.  .  .  . 
“  May  till  November  is  the  dry  season,  November  till  April  the  rainy 
season.  We  had  frost  last  June — June  and  July  being  the  coldest 
months.  I  could  get  you  a  large  collection  of  beautiful  insects.” 
Thus  do  they  labour  in  another  sphere 
To  produce  for  us  what  we  cannot  grow  here. 
— A  Young  Scot. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Fruit  Trees  on  Grass. — The  present  is  a  suitable  time  to 
establish  fruit  trees  on  grass.  Standards  are  the  most  common  form 
of  trees  sought  after  for  this  purpose.  Uotil,  however,  the  trees  are 
growing  freely  the  soil  immediately  surrounding  them  must  be  kept 
free  from  both  grass  and  weeds.  It  is  important  that  they  be 
securely  Btaked,  owing  to  the  more  generally  exposed  positions  such 
situations  present.  The  stems  must  be  protected  from  the  attacks  of 
animals. 
Preparing  Sites  and  Planting . — In  preparing  the  positions  for  plant¬ 
ing  excavate  the  soil  6  to  9  feet  in  diameter.  The  top  spit  of  soil  should 
be  thrown  out  and  the  bottom  broken  up,  adding  to  this  portion  a  layer 
of  decayed  manure,  forking  it  in.  Return  the  soil  which  was  thrown 
out,  intermixing  with  it.  especially  if  heavy,  some  gritty  material  or 
burnt  refuse.  Insert  a  strong  stake  in  the  centre  sufficiently  long  for 
the  purpose  of  binding  the  tree  to.  Plant  closely  to  it,  spreading  out  the 
roots  in  a  wide  hole  of  shallow  depth  and  slightly  convex  shape.  Fold 
I  some  soft  material  round  the  stems,  securing  the  trees  to  the  stakes  with 
copper  wire.  Large  standard  Apples  and  Pears  ought  to  be  30  feet 
apart,  standard  Plums  and  Damsons  15  to  20  feet  apart. 
Preparing-  Soil  and  Planting-  Raspberries.  —  Raspberries 
delight  in  rich  soil.  Before  planting,  thorough  preparation  and  enrich¬ 
ment  of  the  soil  is  essential  to  obtain  the  best  results.  It  may  be 
desirable  to  trench  the  ground,  and  this  will  afford  an  opportunity  to 
incorporate  manure  freely.  It  must  be  well  decomposed.  It  will  not 
have  the  effect  of  promoting  growth  too  luxuriant  in  character,  as  it 
would  have,  probably,  in  the  case  of  most  other  fruits.  Though  the 
Raspberry  is  mainly  a  surface  rooter,  yet  strong  primary  roots  descend 
to  a  considerable  depth,  and  assist  in  supporting  the  plants,  also 
encouraging  the  free  production  of  suckers.  Of  the  latter  those  which  do 
not  ramble  away  from  the  line  of  the  clumps  or  rows  give  the  strong 
canes,  a  limited  number  of  the  best  of  which  are  annually  retained  for 
the  future  bearing. 
Training. — Raspberries  may  be  planted  in  rows  or  clumps.  Rows 
should  run  parallel  to  one  another  at  a  distance  of  4  to  6  feet  between. 
Strong  robust  varieties  may  be  planted  the  wider  distance,  and  the 
plants  in  the  rows  given  a  clear  space  of  2  feet.  Clumps  must  be  planted 
3  feet  apart  in  rows  5  or  6  feet  asunder.  Place  three  plants  6  inches 
apart  in  triangular  form  with  a  stout  stake  in  the  centre.  When  the 
plants  are  established  the  canes  are  shortened  annually  to  the  height  of 
the  stake,  and  round  it  they  are  tied.  The  canes  in  the  espalier  method  are 
best  tied  to  wires  strained  between  6tout  posts  3  inches  thick  fixed  at 
each  end  of  rows. 
Treatment  after  Planting. — The  first  season,  however,  after  planting 
the  canes  ought  to  be  cut  down  close  to  the  soil  in  order  to  encourage 
the  vigorous  production  of  new  ones.  By  sacrificing  a  crop,  which  could 
only  be  a  light  oDe,  the  first  year,  the  plants  are  fully  established  for  the 
next  and  succeeding  seasons.  A  manurial  mulch  over  the  roots  will 
assist  in  maintaining  the  ground  uniformly  moist. 
