168 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
February  25,  1897. 
Pruning:  Cob  Nuts  and  Pllberts. — The  catkins  are  very  con¬ 
spicuous  on  Cob  Nuts  and  Filberts  at  tbe  present  time.  They  depend 
from  the  upper  parts  of  shoots  and  side  branches,  and  are  plentifully 
supplied  with  pollen,  which  flies  about  in  clouds  when  the  catkins  are 
shaken  by  the  wind  or  otherwise.  The  female  blossoms  are  situated 
below,  being  inconspicuous  buds  with  crimson  styles.  These  should  be 
fully  developed,  and  the  catkins  have  distributed  their  pollen  before 
pruning  is  attempted.  Thinning  out  and  regulating  may  be  the  first 
point  attended  to.  The  centres  of  Nut  bushes  are  best  kept  open.  Th> 
permanent  branches  must  not  be  allowed  to  crowd  one  another.  The 
side  shoots  may  be  pruned  to  various  lengths.  Some  are  left  long  in 
order  to  retain  the  catkins  if  the  latter  are  still  wanted  ;  others  which 
may  be  fruitless  prune  closely  in.  Short,  stubby  shoots  or  twigs  having 
a  blossom  bud  at  the  extremity  require  no  pruning.  If  the  bearing 
shoots  of  the  year  previous  still  remain  numerous  some  may  be  shortened 
closely  in.  The  buds  left  will  furnish  shoots  for  future  bearing. 
Shorten  the  leading  shoots  of  established  trees  to  two  or  three  buds. 
Younger  trees  must  have  the  leaders  shortened  according  to  their 
strength.  Weak  growths  ought  to  have  two-thirds  cut  away.  If  of 
moderate  strength  half  their  length  may  be  left,  while  strong  shootsare 
better  with  only  one-third  removed.  The  pruning  induces  the  formation 
of  side  shoots  the  following  year,  which  should  be  fruitful.  Cut  out  old 
or  exhausted  branches,  utilising  well  placed  shoots  from  the  base  to  take 
their  place,  also  remove  suckers  and  useless  spray.  The  production 
of  suckers  is  detrimental  to  the  trees  if  allowed  to  remain.  By  these 
means  the  bushes  can  be  kept  sturdy  and  fruitful,  because  abundance  of 
light  and  air  can  reach  every  part, 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  House. — The  weather  has 
been  generally  favourable  to  forcing  operations,  it  not  having  been 
necessary  to  have  recourse  to  sharp  firing,  and  the  trees  in  consequence 
look  well,  and  the  crop  bo  far  satisfactory.  A  night  temperature  of  50° 
to  55°  and  60°  to  65°  by  day  artificially,  advancing  to  70°  or  75°  from 
sun  heat,  especially  after  closing,  will  keep  the  trees  in  steady  progress. 
Ventilate  from  60°,  increasing  with  the  sun  heat,  taking  care  to  avoid 
cold  currents  and  sudden  depressions  of  temperature,  which  cripple  the 
foliage,  and  may  cause  the  fruit  to  fall.  Syringe  in  the  morning  and 
afternoon  with  water  of  the  temperature  of  the  house,  and  always  suffi¬ 
ciently  early  to  allow  the  foliage  to  become  dry  before  night.  On  dull 
days  omit  the  afternoon  syringing,  also  the  morning  when  cold  and  sun¬ 
less,  damping  the  borders  and  paths  instead.  Inside  borders  must 
be  duly  supplied  with  water,  affording  liquid  manure  to  weakly  trees. 
Disbud  carefully,  and  in  accordance  with  the  growth.  When  this 
is  strong  the  whole  of  the  foreright  shoots  may  be  taken  off  at  once,  and 
some  of  the  side  growths  pinched  back  to  form  spurs  on  the  extension, 
but  not  on  branches  that  will  be  removed  after  the  fruit  is  gathered, 
retaining  the  best  break  from  the  base  of  the  several  shoots  now  bearing, 
and  this  must  have  room  for  extension  with  full  exposure  to  light,  and 
a  shoot  must  be  reserved  on  a  level  with  or  above  the  fruit  to  attract  the 
sap  to  it,  pinching  such,  when  not  required  for  extension,  at  the  third 
leaf,  and  to  one  afterwards  as  made.  Trees  that  have  set  heavy  crops  of 
fruit  should  have  the  least  promising  removed,  especially  those  badly 
placed  or  on  the  under  side  of  the  trellises.  To  help  weakly  trees  afford 
top-dressings  of  fertilisers  at  intervals  of  about  three  weeks,  and  wash  in 
moderately. 
Second  Early  House. — The  trees  started  at  the  new  year  have  set  the 
fruit,  and  syringing  will  need  to  be  resorted  to  after  this  is  effected, 
which  will  assist  them  to  cast  off  the  remains  of  the  flowers.  Syringe, 
however,  cautiously  in  dull  cold  weather,  as  it  only  weakens  the  growths, 
and  has  a  tendency  to  induce  wood  formation  at  the  expense  of  the  fruit 
swelling.  A  night  temperature  of  50°  is  safe  in  severe  weather,  and 
55°  by  day,  5°  more  in  mild  weather,  with  5°  to  10°  rise  from  sun  heat. 
Disbud  gradually  and  carefully,  practising  it  when  the  fruit  is  fairly 
swelling,  and  when  begun  follow  it  up  a  little  each  day.  Where  there  is 
a  thick  set  of  fruit  remove  the  smallest  and  worst  placed  by  degrees. 
Attend  to  the  inside  borders  as  required  for  watering,  avoiding  making 
the  soil  sodden  and  sour. 
Trees  Started  Early  in  February. — In  the  house  started  this  month 
the  flowers  are  well  advanced,  and  should  be  closely  examined  for 
aphides.  If  any  are  present  fumigate  with  tobacco  or  vaporise  with 
nicotine  essence,  having  the  trees  dry,  and  let  it  be  moderate,  or  foliage 
may  be  crippled  and  the  crop  ruined,  repeating  on  two  or  three  consecu¬ 
tive  evenings.  This  will  keep  the  trees  free  from  the  pests  until  the 
flowering  is  ovei.  When  the  anthers  show  clear  of  the  corollas  cease 
syringing,  maintaining  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere  by  damping 
the  paths  and  borders  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon.  Turn  on 
the  heat  early  in  the  morning'  to  secure  and  maintain  a  temperature  of 
50°  by  day,  ventilating  from  55°,  allowing  an  advance  to  60°  or  65°  from 
sun  heat  with  a  free  circulation  of  air,  employing  fire  heat  only  at  night 
to  keep  the  temperature  between  40°  and  45°.  Where  there  is  a  great 
show  of  blossom  remove  that  on  the  under  side  of  the  shoots.  Supply 
water  to  tbe  border  if  it  needs  moisture,  remembering  that  a  very  wet 
soil  induces  sappy  growths. 
Houses  to  Afford  Fruit  in  Late  July .  and  Early  August. — These 
should  be  started  early  in  March,  syringing  twice  a  day  until  the  buds 
show  colour,  when  it  must  cease.  Maintain  a  temperature  of  50°  by 
day,  and  with  ventilation  from  that  point  an  advance  may  be  made  from 
sun  heat  to  65°  ;  40°  to  45°  is  ample  at  night.  If  the  border  is  at  all  dry 
afford  an  adequate  supply  of  water,  repeating  as  necessary.  Where  the 
blossom  buds  are  superabundant  remove  thoie  on  the  unc  er  side  of  the- 
trellis,  drawing  the  hand  the  reverse  way  of  the  growths.  Fumigate  if 
there  be  the  least  trace  of  aphides. 
Latest  Houses. — These  are  often  unheated  and  have  the  roof-lights 
fixed,  both  great  mistakes,  as  the  buds  swell  early,  and  there  is  little 
more  safety  for  the  blossoms  in  a  cold  wet  spring  than  outdoors.  With 
the  roof-lights  off  the  buds  are  quite  dormant,  and  they  need  not  be 
replaced  until  the  buds  commence  swelling  freely.  Under  fixed  roofs 
ventilate  freely,  and  where  there  is  heat  merely  exclude  frost.  Heat  is 
essential  in  cold  localities,  as  the  blossom  is  not  safe  from  spring  frost,, 
and  the  fruit  does  not  ripen  perfectly  if  the  season  be  cold  and  sunless. 
Besides,  a  gentle  heat  during  flowering  does  much  towards  securing  a 
good  set.  and  in  autumn  artificial  heat  is  necessary  to  ripen  the  fruit  and 
wood.  Indeed,  the  very  late  varieties  cannot  be  depended  on  to  produce 
good  fruit  in  late  localities  without  aid  in  backward  seasons,  and  some 
of  the  latest  sorts  are  noble  in  appearance,  good  in  quality,  a  gentle  heat 
making  great  difference  in  the  fruit  as  regards  its  thorough  ripening. 
See  that  the  borders  are  well  supplied  with  moisture.  ‘  Those  having 
been  exposed  are  thoroughly  moistened  through  to  the  drainage,  and  will 
not  require  watering  until  the  fruit  is  advanced  in  swelling  ;  besides,  such 
trees  uever  cast  their  buds  when  they  should  be  developing  their 
flowers. 
Vines. — Early  Forced  in  Pi  ts. — These  require  generous  treatment, 
such  as  surface  dressings  of  rich  material,  well-decayed  manure,  and 
lumpy  loam,  with  a  sprinkling  bone  superphosphate  and  copious  supplies 
of  liquid  manure  in  a  tepid  state,  keeping  the  plunging  material  about 
the  roots  well  moistened  with  the  same  to  insure  tbe  spread  of  the  roots 
into  it  and  augment  the  support  of  the  Vines.  With  the  roots  coming 
over  the  rims  and  from  the  bottoms  of  the  pots  the  Vines  make  plenty 
of  foliage,  which  should  not  be  kept  too  closely  pinched,  as  there  is 
nothing  like  plenty  of  feeders  to  secure  well-swelled  berries. 
Early  Houses. — Planted-out  Vines  started  early  in  December  have 
the  Grapes  swelling  and  approaching  the  stoning  period  ;  they  will 
require  careful  treatment  in  ventilating,  affording  a  little  air  at  70°, 
increasing  it  with  the  sun  heat,  keeping  this  through  the  day  at  80°  to 
85°,  closing  by  or  before  the  temperature  recedes  to  80°,  and  if  it 
advance  to  85°  or  90°  all  the  better.  Avoid  cold  draughts  ;  they  are 
prolific  of  rust  and  cripple  the  foliage.  Keep  inside  borders  well 
supplied  with  water  or  liquid  manure  of  the  same  temperature  as 
the  mean  of  the  house,  and  maintain  a  genial  condition  of  the 
atmosphere  by  damping  the  paths  and  borders  two  or  three  times  a  day, 
especially  at  closing  time. 
Glares  in  Flower. — The  temperature  ought  not  to  be  less  than 
60°  to  65°,  with  a  rise  of  10°  to  15°  by  day.  Lessen  or  discontinue  the 
syringing,  though  moderate  humidity  is  desirable  for  the  benefit  of 
the  foliage,  preventing  condensation  of  moisture  by  a  little  venti¬ 
lation  constantly,  taking  care  not  to  cause  a  draught.  Shy-setting 
varieties  require  careful  fertilisation,  all  varieties  well  repaying  the 
labour  by  producing  finer  bunches  of  evenly  formed  berries.  Afford 
Muscats  in  bloom  a  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°,  and  10°  to  15° 
rise  by  day :  if  the  bunches  are  numerous  a  better  set  will  be 
secured  by  the  removal  of  the  surplus  bunches  before  they  flower 
Duplicate  bunches  only  take  support  from  those  left  for  the  crop. 
Thinning  Grapes. — Keep  this  operation  well  in  hand,  thinning  Black 
Hamburghs  and  other  free-setting  varieties  as  soon  as  possible  after 
flowering,  but  the  shy  setting  Muscats  and  others  should  be  left  until 
the  properly  fertilised  berries  can  be  distinguished  by  their  taking  the 
lead  in  swelling.  Thinning  requires  the  exercise  of  a  little  judgment, 
taking  the  character  of  the  kind  and  capabilities  of  tbe  Vines  into 
consideration.  Sufficient  berries  should  be  taken  out  to  allow  those  left 
to  attain  their  full  size  without  wedging  or  crushing,  retaining  sufficient 
to  prevent  the  bunches  falling  out  of  shape  when  cut  and  laid  upon  the 
dish. 
Sriccession  Houses — Attend  to  disbudding  as  soon  as  the  best  breaks 
can  be  discerned,  proceeding  gradually.  Stopping  may  take  place  one, 
two,  three,  or  four  joints  beyond  tbe  show  of  fruit  as  the  space  admits, 
but  the  more  leaves  beyond  the  fruit  having  exposure  to  light  the  more 
certain  is  it  of  being  well  supported.  If  the  space  is  limited  stop  at  the 
second  joint,  or  even  at  one  beyond  tbe  bunch  ;  but  if  the  room  admits 
stop  the  growths  at  the  third  or  fourth  joint  beyond  the  bunch,  and 
then  allow  the  laterals  to  extend  until  the  available  space  is  covered 
with  an  even  spread  of  leaves,  then  keep  closely  stopped.  Tie  the 
growths  down  before  they  touch  the  glass,  bringing  them  down  carefully, 
as  the  growths  of  vigorous  Vines  are  liable  to  snap.  Allow  plenty  of 
room  in  the  ligatures  for  tbe  swelling  of  the  shoots.  When  the  bunches 
show  increase  the  temperature  to  55°  to  60°  at  night,  65°  by  day 
artificially,  70°  to  75°  from  sun  heat,  and  an  increase  of  5°  to  10°  from 
that  source  after  closing. 
Late  Houses. — If  late  Vines  are  not  yet  cleared  of  Grapes  it  should 
be  done  at  once,  pruning  the  Vines  and  dressing  the  cuts  with  best 
French  polish  or  styptic,  shellac  dissolved  in  alcohol  being  excellent  for 
this  purpose  ;  and  cleanse  the  house  and  Vines,  removing  the  loose 
surface  soil  from  the  border,  supplying  fresh  loam,  keeping  the  house  as 
cool  as  possible.  Examine  Grapes  in  rooms,  removing  any  decayed  or 
mouldy  berries,  as  one  soon  spoils  a  whole  bunch.  Maintain  the  tem¬ 
perature  at  40°  to  45°,  and  the  room  being  dry  tbe  Grapes  will  keep 
sound  and  give  little  trouble.  Muscats,  Lady  Downe’s,  and  other  late 
varieties,  from  which  the  Grapes  were  cut  about  the  new  year,  may  now 
be  encouraged  to  grow,  as  the  Vines  starting  early  in  March  have  a 
chance  to  mature  their  Grapes  thoroughly  before  the  cold  and  Bunless 
